travelbynatasha

Tahiti bound-Natasha goes native

Posted on January 29, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Greeting at the dock in Moorea, French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

I am going native with a trip to Tahiti and a cruise of French Polynesia. This is the place of your romantic dreams of blue sky, beautiful clear waters, flowers, and thatched bungalows (with every convenience in my dreams). Bet you can almost picture the outrigger canoes, black pearls, gardenia blossoms, and tiki figures.

local art
©Jean Janssen

The air connections to Tahiti are limited and outrageous in price. We usually get our own air, but this time we are going with Oceania’s schedule that is about half the price. We flew to LAX and then had to walk to the international terminal that is close, but a little tough for Boris who is still using a cane. Fortunately, we were able to check our bags all the way through to Papeete, Tahiti or we would be lugging them too. I have had to do this multiple times on dive trips to the South Pacific when we had to change airlines.

We had a really early flight out of Houston, a long layover in LAX, and then a 9-hour flight to Papeete on Air Tahiti Nui. We arrived after dark and were exhausted. (There is a four-hour time difference for us.) After clearing customs we were taken directly to the ship with no bag collection. Fingers crossed. It’s a charter flight so all the bags are going to the ship. We were greeted with beautiful leis that will make the room smell wonderful for days.

Moorea, 12 miles from Tahiti in French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

It was raining when we reached the ship (a sign of things to come) so we were taken directly onboard where the check-in in the lounge was quick. After dropping off our carry-on bags off in the room and checking out the bathroom-which has a single sink vanity, a toilet wedged into a corner, a free-standing rainhead shower and a full size tub with a second shower connection-it was time for a very late dinner.

An outrigger canoe still in frequent use
throughout French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

With guests arriving until late into the evening, the Grand Dining Room was still open. While part of me just wanted to go to bed, we opted for a nice dinner. What a change from the offered airplane food that I usually don’t eat. The Grand Dining Room does not photograph well with its two-toned neutral color scheme, but the decor is spectacular and the food was very good. When we got back to our room, our bags had already arrived so I unpacked a little since we have an early tour tomorrow.

I absolutely hate the late arrival. We didn’t have it the worst though. The flight after ours on Atlas Air left 2 hours late after some people had to stand in the check in lines at LAX for over 3 hours. I met a woman who was on the flight who didn’t get to bed until 2 am. Her bags didn’t make it to the room until after 12:30 am and she wanted to unpack since, like Boris and I, she had an early excursion in the morning.

Culinary School aboard Oceania’s Marina
©Jean Janssen

We are on the Oceania Marina, one of their two newer ships. We sailed on one of their smaller and older ships, the Nautica, about a year and a half ago. The Marina is still relatively mid-sized with space for 1,250 guests, but adds a culinary school, artist’s loft, and more specialty restaurants to the typical Oceania offerings. This is the upgrade to a premium and luxury cruising experience that Boris and I have been toying with the last two years. He is firmly in this camp. I still see the value and place for cruising with one of our more wallet-friendly favorites like Celebrity Cruise Lines.

a motu in French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

French Polynesia is made up of 5 archipelagoes (island groups); we are visiting three. Our first 5 ports are all part of the Society Islands; we’ll visit two islands in the Marquesas Islands. Our final port before returning to Papette, Rangiroa, is in the Tuamotu Islands. All the archipelagoes are under the administration of the French Government which sends a great deal of financial support to French Polynesia.

The traditional Polynesian schedule means shops close at noon on Saturday, not to reopen until Monday morning. “Reciprocity, generosity and hospitality are central values.” Tahitians greet by shaking hands and exchanging kisses on the cheek. Unless the group is very large, it is considered rude not to individually greet each person in the room. It is also impolite to keep one’s shoes on when entering another’s home.

Traditional Bungalows on the water found as hotel accommodations throughout French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

French Polynesia is romantic. In 2009, a new law made it possible for foreigners to legally marry in French Polynesia without living in the territory before the wedding. You can go through a traditional Tahitian wedding ceremony and be legally married by informing the consulate of your country prior to the ceremony, having a sworn interpreter present, and submitting a request to the town where the ceremony will take place one month in advance.

Let the adventure begin…

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged French Polynesia, Moorea, motu, Tahiti | 1 Comment

Viva Las Vegas

Posted on December 31, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Sunrise from our Penthouse window.
©Jean Janssen

Woke this day to an amazing sunrise just outside my window. Reminder to pull block out curtains if you want to sleep in. My biggest question for the day is do I have room service breakfast or go down to one of the restaurants. It is all equally expensive. We opted for in-room at our private dining table with a view of the LV’s Eiffel Tower. Wonderful eggs Benedict and the most expensive (but fresh squeezed) orange juice I have ever had.

Breakfast with a view of Paris.
©Jean Janssen

If you missed yesterday’s post, I am in Las Vegas with Rocky on a quick trip to get year-end airline miles and celebrate his 22 birthday. This is his first time in Sin City. We got a complimentary upgrade at the Bellagio and are staying in a Penthouse Suite. I am still trying to figure out what famous person they have me confused with.

The plan.

We didn’t make reservations for a lot of things on this short trip, but we are going to see Brad Garrett (best known for playing Ray Morano’s brother on Everybody Loves Raymond) at his comedy club at the MGM Grand and having dinner at the Mon Ami Gabi along the strip in Paris directly across from the Bellagio fountains. After our bird’s eye view of the fountain show last night, we’ll see it at eye level tonight. This afternoon we will grab a picture outside after the show starts at 3 pm. Mon Ami Gabi has a wonderful patio looking out at the fountains, but you can’t make reservations for those seats. They are allotted on a first come, first served basis. Its too cold for the patio seating at this time of year. Temperatures are in the 30s after dark. I did request a seat by the window. We’ll see what happens. The restaurant is recommended for first time visitors to Las Vegas.

A rainbow over the Bellagio Fountains.
©Jean Janssen

First on the agenda is walking the strip and touring inside some of the hotels. We will also stop by the MGM Grand to pick up our tickets for the comedy show and find out where we are going. If I can work it in, I would like to do some shopping this afternoon. There is an outlet I like to go to in Vegas, but don’t think I’ll make it there today.

The reality.

We got back from our touring with tired feet. We walked the Strip from MGM to the Venetian on both the north and south sides. The hotel lobbies for the large hotels are set way back from the street so there was a lot of walking to and from the Strip as well.

Chandelier Bar at the Cosmopolitan, Las Vegas
©Jean Janssen

We left the Bellagio via the front doors and used the moving sidewalks (also found at the Venetian) to get to the street. We stopped first at the Cosmopolitan which is next door and admired their Chandelier Bar with crystals hanging down several stories from the ceiling. All these large hotels have shopping malls (at a price scale to match their clientele) just off the strip. From an upper floor of the Cosmopolitan mall we accessed the elevated sidewalk. Many of the cross streets do not allow pedestrian traffic to cross at street level, so there are elevated walkways sometimes accessed by stairs and sometimes escalators. Occasionally, there are elevators. While individual resorts make facilities available for disabled visitors, a “walk” along the Strip is not really viable. There are bus and tram options connecting some hotels; disabled visitors will need to explore their options.

Las Vegas also has a monorail which connects resorts on the north side. It cost $5 a ride or you can buy a single day or 3-day pass. If you need to go back and forth to the LV Convention Center, the monorail is probably the way to go. The monorail travels from the back side (if you consider the Strip the front) of the north side hotels. You might have a walk of 15 minutes or more through a crowded hotel just to get from the monorail to the Strip (i.e. the MGM Grand).

The Chrysler Building from Las Vegas Boulevard.
©Jean Janssen

After passing some boring and some beautiful south side hotels, which leave me little to say, we got to New York New York with its roller coaster and New York landmark facade-complete with Statute of Liberty, Brooklyn Bridge, and the Chrysler Building. You enter the hotel through Broadway marquee-covered doors and the theme follows you in. You can walk the New York streets (and sample “American” cuisine) and visit Times’ Square. This would be a great place for kids if you really want to bring them to Sin City. I don’t recommend it, but there are children all over even at night.

Walking the streets of New York, the Vegas version
©Jean Janssen

Leaving New York New York you can see the established Luxor and Excalibur, which had little to draw us in. We crossed here, over Las Vega Boulevard, to the MGM Grand. They are doing facade work here leaving the “famous” gold lion somewhat diminished. We were most disappointed with this hotel, not because it is the worse, but because we expected so much more. The hotel lobby is a serious hike from the the Strip and the walk through the casino was pretty ho hum. This hotel is more of an entertainment venue than a place I would consider staying in. The multiple ticket offices we were promised were hard to find and mostly not open. At this time of day (around 1 pm), your only option was to stand in the extremely long line for the concierge. We went underground to find the Comedy Club so we knew where to go this evening. There were fast food and snack options in the “basement” as well as monorail stop access.

The BumbleBee character from Transformers was ready to take his picture with you along the Las Vegas Strip.
©Jean Janssen

The north side of the Strip allows for more street level foot traffic and has a plethora of fast food options. There are lots of buskers and those looking for a hand out. Two of the more clever ones were the guy asking for money for a penis enlargement and the guy who would allow you to kick him in the balls for $20. You can have your picture taken with any number of characters from the sexy policewomen, to Zach Galifianakis’ character from The Hangover in speedo-sized underwear and complete with baby in a chest carrier, to a variety of copyright-infringing Disney characters. There are also lots of people handing out “business cards” advertising speciality services; they offered these only to Rocky.

The resorts we did go into on the north side were nothing special for someone here on a scenic tour. The facade for Paris was really the first one we came to with any intrigue. The vehicle entrance circles around the LV Arc of Triumph which was sporting long banners advertising Gordon Ramsey Steak (for all the Hell’s Kitchen fans). There is an Eiffel Tower replica complete with a ride and restaurant. (For kids of all ages who enjoyed Despicable Me, the tower is back.) We found the entrance for Mon Ami Gabi, our dining spot for this evening and noted that there were plenty of diners who found the daytime temperatures suitable for an alfresco lunch. No view of the fountains though, start time is not until 3 pm on a weekday.

These booths at the Margaritaville on the Strip were cleverly made to look like fishing boats.
©Jean Janssen

Since our dinner reservations had to be for after the show-there are at 10 pm-and we had a huge breakfast, we held out until 2:45 for lunch. We stopped at Rocky’s choice of Margaritaville. This place has a great Jimmy Buffet theme. I particularly liked the booths which looked like fishing boats. We had a couple of frozen drinks-Rocky’s Don’t Stop the Carnival” was good, my Havana Banana was not-and lunch. My crab-mushroom-cheese signature dip served with toasted bread was pretty good (although more crab meat would have been nice), but Rocky’s fish and chips was of the frozen variety and was pretty bad. Periodically, you get a volcano alert and the indoor version erupts. Jimmy Buffet videos and other old videos play on large screens. This location has more atmosphere than the Margaritaville we saw at Universal Studios City Center in Florida. Bottom line is go if you want fun or clever decor, but not for the food or drinks.

A singing Gondolier drove his passengers along the Grand Canal in the Venetian in Las Vegas.
©Jean Janssen

We plugged on to the Venetian, once again enjoying the moving sidewalks into the hotel. Having been to Venice many times, I am really impressed with how they carry the theme through this hotel, complete with a “Grand Canal” with singing gondoliers. The shopping winds through the streets of Venice periodically requiring you to cross a bridge to get to the other side. I love the Venetian’s painted blue ceiling with clouds which gives its all a more spacious feel in spite of being a small entirely enclosed space. I stayed at the Venetian on my first trip to Vegas and can tell you the rooms are beautiful.

A New York skyline in Las Vegas complete with a Statute of Liberty and Roller coaster?
©Jean Janssen

After our tour of Venice, we crossed back to the south side of Las Vegas Boulevard to see the volcano at the Mirage. I erupts on the hour, starting at 5 pm. We were too early. Rocky’s feet were killing him. NEVER NEVER NEVER break in new shoes on a walking trip. We opted to finish with Caesar’s Palace and go back to our fine room.

The curving escalator and three story statutes at the Forum Shops at Caesar’s Palace Las Vegas.
©Jean Janssen

Even if you are not into shopping, you need to take a walk through the Forum Shops. I love the curved escalators by the three-story statues, the moving statutes (achieved through lighting effects), and the Atlantis water show. All free entertainment and the shopping here is pretty good too. We finished up in front of Caesar’s Palace and then walked though the connecting Bellagio shopping area to our room. I can also recommend the rooms at Caesar’s. Its a big place, allow yourself time to get from the room to the front.

We decided to catch the next fountain show-still light outside-from our room. At 5 pm with it growing dark, I decided to take a nap. Rocky thought I couldn’t sleep with the sound of the outdoor fountain show, but I was completely out for an hour until he woke me up. After changing for the evening and having mapped our route, we went back to the MGM Grand for the comedy show. We got there just less than an hour before show time and there were quite a few people already in their seats for the 90-minute show. No difficulty picking up the tickets I purchased on-line with just a photo id. There are three levels of tickets and you are seated by a manager on a first come, first served basis within your group. Its not a big club, so you could sit just about anywhere and feel part of the action.

Rocky at the entrance to Brad Garrett’s Comedy Club in the “basement” level of the MGM Grand, Las Vegas.
©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I each ordered one of the speciality drinks-he The Headliner, me The Heckler-and both were excellent if somewhat expensive at $12 each. The only food served was gourmet popcorn, also pricy at $10 a bag. (It is resealable if you want to save for later). We liked the combo of caramel and white cheddar, a strange combination that was actually quite good. Since we are staying at one of the family of MGM resorts, we were able to charge our drinks to our room. Popcorn purchases require cash.

One of the reasons we chose the Comedy Club was that Brad Garrett was there for the evening. He opened the show, introduced each of the comics, and closed as well. You must be 21 to enter the club; the servers don’t have to worry about carding and the material is clearly for adults. Anyone is fair game, but if you want to be the subject of Brad’s (and the other comics’) performances, buy one of the tier one tickets and ask to sit in one of the first few rows. The first row guests were just pelted. One of the comics even commented on how nice it was to have a mixed first row instead of all the white faces of the previous nice. Brad was unrelenting and absolutely hysterical. Of the five comics performing, I thought all but one were perfect. The other just wasn’t my style of comic. I was a little afraid the Rocky might feel uncomfortable about laughing at some of the material in front of his mom, but he was clapping and howling throughout.

View from our Penthouse Suite in the late afternoon. We could see the mountains in the distance silhouetted against the sunset.
©Jean Janssen

We were a good audience and the show was already running a little long (and we had no time to spare to make our dinner reservations in Paris) when Brad came out to close, but he just kept going and we stayed. We were told it was a 90 minute show; we got 155 minutes, missing our reservations by an hour. No regrets. Clearly we got our money’s worth. After our popcorn, we didn’t feel compelled to beg to get in late at the restaurant (who knows when it closed; not sure they would have seated us at 11:05 anyway). We grabbed some fast food and went back to the room to enjoy the final couple of fountain shows from our Bellagio Penthouse Suite.

The Bellagio Fountains as seen from room in daylight.©Jean Janssen

The Bellagio Fountains as seen from our room in daylight.
©Jean Janssen

Natasha in the Bellagio.
©Theodore Crane

Tonight I am closing the blackout curtains.

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Bellagio, Brad Garrett, Brad Garrett's Comedy Club, Caesar's Palace, Chandelier Bar, Forum Shops, Las Vegas, Margaritaville, MGM Grand, New York New York, The Venetian | Leave a comment

Penthouse living in Sin City

Posted on December 30, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Disclaimer. The next two posts describe what is probably one of the tamest trips you could take to Las Vegas.

The Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas
©Jean Janssen

About 3 weeks before the end of the year I realized I was going to be just under 800 miles short of gold status on United. Usually I piggyback off of Boris, but since his injury sidelined him this year I am trying to get to gold on my own. Gold versus Silver means access to the Gold Star Alliance lounges in international airports. On a long layover, these lounges are a blessing.

Arrival in Vegas. Yes, there are slot machines at the airport.
©Jean Janssen

Where to go in late December? First thought was New York to see the amazing holiday decorations. It is also a terribly expensive time to go. Last year when Rocky turned 21 we had planned on taking him to Vegas, but the trip had to be cancelled. What about celebrating 22 in Vegas? After all, we were in Disney for the actual 22 and as my sister Emma likes to say, Las Vegas is an adult’s Disneyland.

I am not a big LV fan as I don’t gamble (at least in a casino, maybe a little bingo). There is so much more to do in Vegas though-big shows, touring the themed hotels, great restaurants, terrific shopping-that I thought we should give it a try. The Las Vegas Strip is so iconic that the experience should be on every 21 (or 22) year old’s bucket list. Hopefully traveling with his mom, Rocky can’t get in too much trouble. (Maybe he can keep me out of trouble too.)

3Jack3 is coming in a few days, so his will be just a quick between-holidays trip. Rocky and I took a late night flight out of Houston arriving at 10:45 pm (12:45 am in Houston). Sometimes you get a great view of the Strip when flying in, but not tonight. We took a cab to our hotel. The airport is practically on the Strip, but because of traffic you have to wind around and take the back way in. Cost $30 with the tip. Our flight was full, but in spite of the set up for a long queue, we got a cab right away.

Lobby Check-in desk at the Bellagio in Las Vegas
©Jean Janssen

You can often get an amazing hotel deal in Vegas-they will get your money another way. I did my research on hotels.com and found there were basically two tiers-the double digit bargains and the triple digit options that can move up to 4 or 5 digits if you want a really special hotel or speciality room. Since we are only spending 2 nights, I decided to splurge on triple digits at a hotel that Rocky has often spoke of due to its movie associations like Dodgeball and Ocean’s 11. We are staying at the Bellagio.

The Bellagio Conservatory decorated for the holidays.
©Jean Janssen

Cab dropped up off at the side entrance, so we wound through the casino-which is massive-to the front lobby. I’m not used to the heavy smell of cigarette smoke in public places, but that is part of the “character” of Vegas. We saw the famous Bellagio fountains through restaurant windows as we made our way through. The lobby, adjoining conservatory, and shopping corridors were the only parts of the hotel decorated for the holidays and they were full of tourists taking pictures. I stood in line to register while Rocky stared out the front doors at the fountains. I told him to take a look and I completed the registration.

After a general search site like hotels.com, I follow up directly with my hotel of choice to see if I can get the same or better deal. The Bellagio site offered the same price and it is easier to cancel when book directly with the hotel, so that is how I made the reservations for our stay. I don’t know if it was that, the fact that we were celebrating Rocky’s 22, or our very late arrival, but we were given a COMPLIMENTARY upgrade to a Penthouse Suite.

Just a small part of our complimentary
penthouse suite at the Bellagio
©Jean Janssen

I didn’t tell Rocky and he was stunned when we walked into the room. Frankly so was I. You walked in and immediately to your right is the guest bathroom (one of three) which, as Rocky put it, was big enough to put a bed in. On the left was the walk in bar with stools and a foot rail on the outside. This looked into a huge room with a den area, desk area, and a dining area. The bedroom was off that and two additional bathrooms were off the bedroom. Each bathroom had its own toilet (woman’s side also had a bidet), a two door mirrored closet, and sink vanity. The woman’s side also featured a makeup table and huge Jacuzzi tub. The man’s side had a bachelor’s chest and a steam shower. There were more toilets than people in our room.

I saved the best for last. The main room and bedroom also looked out on the Strip and the Famous Bellagio Fountains. The Eiffel Tower (or at least the LV version) is directly across the street. What a view. Suddenly we weren’t tired. We watched the fountain show from our windows-every 15 minutes from 8 pm to midnight, every 30 minutes from 3 pm to 8 pm and noon to 8 pm on weekends and holidays. From our windows on the 32nd floor, we were amazed at how many of the strip hotels we were able to pick out. Needless to say, we didn’t go out again.

The Bellagio Fountains as seen from our Penthouse Suite. What a view!!
©Jean Janssen

Rocky was afraid to go to sleep in fear that he would wake up and realize he didn’t really have this amazing room. Finally packed it in at 12:45 (2:45 am to my body) dreaming of my next day of Penthouse living.

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Bellagio, Las Vegas | Leave a comment

a few final words on Tuscany with a wheelchair

Posted on November 5, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Our new Lufthansa air bus, the A380, loads from three ramps in Frankfurt.
©Jean Janssen

We woke up very early on Sunday morning (4 am) to make our flights home. We were fortunate that the bellmen were not too busy so one of them took us to the terminal with our luggage in the hotel van. When we arrived, I ran in and found our check in line. Then I went back out and rolled Boris into the line. Then I went out and directed the bellman in and was able to deposit our luggage right next to the check in line. A nice tip was in order for this gentleman.

A McDonald’s in the less than a month old Z terminal in Frankfurt. Definitely not part of the Slow Foods Movement started in Italy in response to the opening of a McDonald’s at the Spanish steps in Rome.
©Jean Janssen

The counter was crazy and I don’t know how they were going to get all the passengers checked in before the flight, especially with agents leaving to go to the gate. If you haven’t been to foreign airport before you may be unaware that their counters are specific as to airline and flight only for a short time frame and they are not always in the same place. You really have to watch the monitors to know the proper line. The woman in front of us was going to Zürich and didn’t realize her problem until she got to the counter and then had to go stand in another line (even though both were Lufthansa flights).

crowds in the new Z terminal in Frankfurt waiting to board.
©Jean Janssen

After the check-in, we had to wait a while for wheelchair assistance. After he came, we had to go to another area to check-in his portable wheelchair which will go as baggage all the way to Houston. They could not get the conveyor belt to run the right way, so we were there for a while. We arrived at the gate to go directly on the aircraft.

This was a short, smooth flight to Frankfurt with Boris and I in aisle seats across from each other. We were in row 7 and could easily see business class in rows 1-5. They were in the same size seats (3 and 3) and were served the same cart breakfast as we were. Only difference was they were offered periodicals (mostly in German). Don’t know what the price difference was but certainly not worth it.

It was hard to leave the beautiful Tuscan countryside.
©Jean Janssen

We arrived into the A terminal in Frankfurt and went to the new Pier A, sign-posted terminal Z with a Lufthansa assistant. She was very friendly, but like our previous assistant, this was the first time she was taking someone to the new terminal. She said there had been lots of complaints because it was opened before the staff had really been trained on everything. She also told us that it was only 7 gates, but that they could load up to three flights at one gate at a time. Of course that meant more apron flights. When I commented that I couldn’t believe they did that much outside boarding in a city with such cold weather she just said there wasn’t space and that she thought another terminal for Lufthansa was already planned.

Pienza, Toscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

We were on first again, Boris was one of ten wheelchair passengers. He was in my old seat in 51 C on the aisle. I was in 50 K, a window seat. As it turns out, the first row on the bottom level has more leg room so I was pleasantly surprised. I sat next to a young Egyptian couple. He works in the oil business which was the reason for their travel to Houston. He has been before, but this was her first visit. Their hotel was in the Galleria area and she was planning on going shopping; her stated reason for coming on the trip. When I asked about sightseeing he commented on how you had to have a car to get around Houston (very true), so that probably they wouldn’t see much.

I watched 5 movies to kill the time during this ten and a half hour flight. They had added a few more movies for November. A front row seat has its advantages; Boris got the first wheelchair and we were off to use our global entry stamps at immigration and by-pass the line (a bargain at $100 for five years for people who do several international trips a year). We got down to baggage claim far before the luggage did. We were met there by a Lufthansa representative who told us that one of our bags had not made the flight. I was betting on the wheelchair (and was right). The plane was so large, baggage came down on two belts, one for connecting passengers and one for those terminating travel in Houston.

Etruscan mark in Montepulcino, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Fortunately, Lufthansa had started the bag claim for us and it didn’t take long to complete the paperwork and get in on our way. The chair will be delivered to our home the next night. Rocky was waiting for us outside and the wheelchair assistant helped us all the way to the car. Home to the Houston heat.

I would highly recommend the complimentary wheelchair assistance that is offered by the airlines for anyone that is physically challenged. While this is a free service, tipping is permitted, deserved, and appreciated.

Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Just thought I would share a few observations for those of you contemplating travel to this area of Italy. The food is amazing. Blow the diet and eat the pizza, pasta, and bread. The beef and veal were also fabulous. The pizza is so much better in Italy, thin crust and not overloaded with red sauce. But it is intended as an individual portion, so order your own (one per adult person) and cut it with a knife and fork. Salads, traditionally, are served after the main meat or fish course. And don’t forget the wine, which doesn’t have to be expensive to be good.

Italians don’t do fast food. In fact, they have a whole movement called slow food which celebrates traditional products and the time it takes to prepare a wonderful meal. The meal is an event and meant to be savored. Give yourself the time to enjoy it. They also won’t rush you out, so you will probably have to ask for your check. It is not “the how many times we can turn over the table in one night” approach we are used to in American restaurants. You may be the only diners at that table for the evening.

Near the Abbey, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

You will need a car to make your way around Tuscany. Unless you are well-versed in manual transmissions, request an automatic and reserve it early. You will also want the most powerful, yet smallest (particularly narrow) vehicle that will still fit your group and luggage. You will be limited on where you can go and park if you rent something big. You will need to refresh yourself on how to parallel park before you go. Gas is sold by the liter, is more expensive, and is not readily available in all areas.

At the Etruscan Museum in Chuisi, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

You don’t have to speak Italian in this part of Italy, in fact many of the menus have English translations. If it says they have a tourist menu, avoid that. Learn the few words listed in the guidebook; it will be helpful. If you want a toilet, ask for a toilet or WC (water closet); don’t ask for the restroom or bathroom which mean very different things.

The summer will be hot and busy. The Europeans travel in August, so avoid that month due to crowds. Late May or early June are the best time if you need to travel in the summer. I suggest the fall or spring. Some of the roads in Tuscany can be pretty treacherous in the snow and icy winter. October is perfect, but avoid the crowds we ran into by not including the November 1 holiday (All Saints Day) in your travel plans.

Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

I can go on and on, but if you have a specific question, just send it to me as a comment. Enjoy Italy. After traveling to 80+ countries, it is still my favorite.

Posted in international | Tagged global entry, Lufthansa, Lufthansa A380, slow food, Z Terminal | Leave a comment

All roads lead to Rome

Posted on November 3, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Our bedroom at Galantino, our home in Montefollonico.
The property was much bigger than it appears on film and had lovely touches everywhere.
Mariella Spinelli was a wonderful host and helped us with many things throughout our trip.
We reserved the home through Parker Villas.
©Jean Janssen

We slept well after our repeat dinner at 13 Gobbi. I had exactly the same things as last time. The place was completely full and the host and a single waiter served the whole restaurant (2 rooms) efficiently. Our host was pleased to see us again. Boris had made a reservation and he thanked us for speaking Italian. There were Italian, English, and German speakers in the restaurant that night and his language skills were being tested.

While Boris took over the front sitting room in the house with the television on the Italian stations, the kitchen table area was my hangout spot while at Casa Galente or Galantino in Montefollonico. This is where the magic of the blog happended. From my spot, I could look out over the large garden and see the sunsets.
©Jean Janssen

The morning was cloudy and foggy and I went about packing the rest of our things. (Yea, all the clothes dried.) Mariella arrived just before 10 am and we got the checkout business handled. We had the heater on about half the time we were here and the heating charge was $100. This was exactly the price difference from our earlier selected date, so it all came out in the wash.

With the fog, our drive to the Autostrada was not as picturesque as it has been in previous days. We drove through Tuscany, Umbria, and just after crossing into Lazio exited at Orte in the direction of Virterbo. Orte is one of those cliff-hanging cities that looks like it is about to fall down the hillside at any minute. There is also an wonderful aqueduct on the right side of the city as you head south on the A1. Orte, originally the Etruscan city of Hurta, is an important stop on the Florence-Rome railway.

Inside the Viterbo Cathedral, Lazio, Italy
Jean Janssen

At our exit, I heard the best line of the day. There was a statute of the Virgin Mary just at the exit ramp. Boris noticed too and added “Ah, Our Lady of the Autostrada.” That one I deem to be a classic.

You will notice that we didn’t visit some of the major Tuscan cities; that it not to say you should skip Florence, Siena, and San Gigmignano. All are fabulous must-see cities in Tuscany. We went to all of them on our honeymoon. We focused on the cities south of Siena and Eastern Tuscany where we had spent little time before.

On the Piazza del Plebiscito, the administrative center of Viterbo since the 13th Century. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Umbria is similar to Tuscany, but a little more rough and rugged. My impression is that it is less manicured, but just as special to visit. We loved both Orvieto and Assisi, and the countryside near Todi when we visited. Lazio is the region of Italy where Rome is located.

We enjoyed a nice highway drive into Viterbo, an ancient papal city. Entering was a bit of a problem with a single car-width gate with no traffic light. You were dependent on the outbound traffic to give one inexperienced in Italian driving a break. Once in, we followed one-way narrow streets through the ancient city touring by car. We found a spot only to have the proprietor come out and ask us to move. It was not a no parking zone, but it was easier to move than argue in Italian. There were people everywhere and the parking availability was nil. We were about to give up when someone pulled out and we pulled in right next to a pedestrian-only zone near the large Piazza del Plebiscito.

Spotted as I left the Piazza del Plebiscito Via San Larenzo in route to the Papal Palace. Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

I have often heard that shopping was the #1 activity while people are on vacation, and the visitors to Viterbo, 50 km from Rome, were out to prove that. The stores were far busier than the historical sites. After wandering around the Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Mario Fani while Boris read his guidebook, we returned to the Piazza del Plebiscito which has been the administrative center of the city since the 13th century, and headed south past the Piazza del Gesu and its churches and Piazza della Morte to the Cathedral.

The Viterbo Cathedral and Bell Tower. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The Cathedral and its bell tower dominate the Plaza of San Lorenzo, but it is the Loggia of the Papal Palace which draws your attention. A wide staircase leads up to the beautiful entwined arches and the fountained patio. From this hillside location, you have a wonderful view of the city below (and the construction site of a major church renovation).

View from the loggia of the papal residence at Viterbo, Lazio, Italy. Just behind the space of green field with trees is the line of the ancient city walls.
©Jean Janssen

Viterbo’s Cathedral is on the site of an ancient Etruscan city (some of the Etruscan ruins are marked as you enter Piazza San Lorenzo) and a reputed temple dedicated to Hercules. Viterbo became a papal residence as early as 1145, when Pope Eugene IV deemed it a safer seat for papal authority than Rome. The Papal Palace was built in 1255-1266. When Clement IV ended his papacy there, a three year vacancy lead to what is considered to be the first Conclave in the history of the Roman Catholic Church (think white and black smoke). The Conclave was held here in Viterbo.

The papal residence and loggia as seen from Piazza San Lorenzo in Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Viterbo, Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The medieval section of San Pellegrino is near Plaza San Lorenzo just east of Piazza della Morte. One could easily spend hours roaming around it. Boris was exhausted after the climb to the Cathedral, so we opted for lunch at Piazza del Gesu instead. There were lovely outside tables connected with our restaurant which sat on the Piazza overlooking the fountain and two churches, but the weather was dreary and cold, so like all the other patrons we chose a table inside. For my last meal in Italy, I ordered a prosciutto and funghi (ham and mushroom) pizza. Boris had spaghetti carbonara (one of my favorite pasta dishes) and a pizza (and two big-but not super-beers).

Revitalized by lunch and without fear of the speeding cars that come flying across this huge plaza, Boris headed to our car across the Piazza del Plebiscito, Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

After lunch, Boris had had enough and we were losing light so we went back to the car about 3 pm. In classic Italian style, all the shops were closed tight and suddenly parking spaces were available everywhere. We determined a new route to take the A12 to the airport and headed southeast to the coast. Just as we were leaving, I saw the best view of the day looking back up at the loggia to the Cathedral from the bottom of the hill. Breathtaking, but I was driving and there were cars behind me. We had no problem exiting the same city gate we came in; this time there was no traffic coming at us.

While the temple and base were later additions, this Baptismal font by Francesco da Ancona is from 1470. In the Viterbo Cathedral. Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

It was a pretty nice two lane road down to Civitavecchia, aka the Cruise Port city for Rome. We saw an ancient aqueduct that stretched for a quarter of a mile, only to turn and see the ruins continue. For a while we got to drive along the coast and enjoy the beautiful waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, an arm of the Mediterranean, as we drove the A12/E80 to Leonardo Da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino).

The A roads are toll, but don’t all follow the same procedures for payment. On the A12 heading up to Tuscany, we took a ticket when we got on and paid when we got off. On the A12, you stop at two toll gates, paying a set price each time. That is unless you miss your exit and have to go again. (foreshadowing).

The A12 dumps you into a highway which goes south to the airport or north into Rome. When we got to the airport (our Hilton is inside with walkways directly into the terminals), there was no sign posting for the Hilton. We drove all around it, asked a police officer and finally went around to try again. Except, as it turns out, there was no way to turn around. Boris suggested another exit and we ended up back on the A12 headed away from the airport. At which point, we drove, got off, paid, got back on, and paid again. This time he had called the hotel. Then we wound around the cargo and remote parking areas coming to the Hilton Garden Inn and came in the employee entrance-only they wouldn’t let us in the lot. So we went around again. Boris went in and found out that we indeed were staying at the Airport Hilton, not the Hilton Garden Inn. They gave us a map.

In the Viterbo Cathedral. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

As it turns out you have to follow the sign posting for rental car return. (The original plan had been to return the car after dropping off our luggage. If you follow the rental car return lane, returns are on your left, the hotel (easily spotted now) is on your right. We dropped off bags and the bellmen could tell our frustration, so one followed us in the courtesy van to rental car return and brought us back. It was really difficult at this point because it was already dark and the the signs are small. (If you are a regular blog follower, you know how I feel about driving after dark in Italy. Again, I was not happy.)

When we finally made it to the hotel, Boris just went straight to the room and I finished up the paperwork and took care of our driver and bellman. At least we are on the floor with the lounge with free drinks and wifi. I am still not exactly sure how I will get Boris in a wheelchair and all to the luggage to the terminal (probably two trips for me). But that is tomorrow problem. So Boris is eating a hamburger from room service (outrageously priced) and I am writing to you all with a sign off from Italy. Arrividerci.

View of the Cathedral and Bell Tower from the loggia of the Papal Residence Viterbo, Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international | Tagged Mariella Spinelli, Montefollonico, Ristorante 13 Gobbi Montefollonico, Viterbo | Leave a comment

Bagno Vignoni, Castiglione d’Orcia, and the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on November 2, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Piazza dell Sorgenti in Bagno Vignoni, Tuscano Italy.
The main plaza is literally a pool or bath.
©Jean Janssen

Today is our final adventure in Tuscany. Tomorrow we return to Rome for flights home on Sunday. We backtracked this morning over our sunset route then turned to see the spa town of Bagno Vignoni. The Piazza Delle Sorgenti is literally a large bathing area. It was a favorite of St. Catherine of Siena and there is a lovely modern statue of her at the water and a small chapel dedicated to her.

I found this modern statute of St. Catherine of Siena bathing at the Piazza Delle Sorgenti in Bagno Vigno charming.
©Jean Janssen

The parking is going to be terrible everywhere. When we passed through San Quirico d’Orcia, the lots were already full. When we arrived in Bagno Vignoni, only 5 km from San Quirico d’Orcia, we created our own space as the Italians often do. I did make an attempt at an even farther satellite lot, but it was full of large recreational vehicles that had totally staked the area and appeared to be in it for the long haul.

Since yesterday was a holiday, people have taken today off, the children appear to still be out of school, and they are making a four-day weekend of it. They have beautiful weather. The sky is perfectly clear; it is very sunny and much warmer. No coat, hat, or gloves needed today.

This is just what Boris needs, a dog to carry his guidebook and map. Bagno Vignoni, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Bagno Vignoni did have a few shops and I picked up some homemade Christmas decorations. Boris had a coffee (which gave me bathroom privileges) and we sat outside and enjoyed the sun. The area between the parking lots and the square were filled with parks and benches and the children were enjoying the swings.

Rather an ironic sign in a historic spa resort, a favorite of St.Catherine of Siena, and Pope Pius II. The spring-fed pool, known since Roman times, has waters rich in
sulphur, calcium carbonate, and magnesium
good for curing a variety of ailments.
Bano Vignoni, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

You could not swim in the historical bathing area, although it was full of water, but another bathing opportunity was nearby and we saw vendors selling wet suits and flip-flops for those that wanted to partake.

We were on the road with the castle I had admired from afar yesterday and we decided to go for it. The scarcely populated hamlet associated with the fortress is Rocca d’Orcia (Citadel of the Orcia). You had to park outside the village and walk up into the town, up to the fortress, and up through the tower. That was all too much for Boris, but I did get a fairly close-up picture.

The Citadel of the Orcia, Rocca d’Orcia rises 560 meters above sea level and dominates the entire Valley.
©Jean Janssen

After learning about the citadel, I am not surprised that I was so impressed with it. The building, from the 4th century, is 560 meters above sea level and dominates the entire Val d’Orcia The scene is not so fairy-tale up close, but I was proud of myself for making the drive up. (It was really not bad at all.)

Castiglione d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Next to Rocca is Castiglione d’Orcia, a charming town with a large fountain as you drive in. Near that square is a platform area with a view of the entire valley. We ventured in a bit and came to Piazza Vecchietta with its original pebble paving and 17th century well. There is a UNESCO marker on the town hall with the soaring bell tower. From here you can also look up and see the castle-like ruins of the citadel keep. Not so fairy-tale if you think of it, but closer. I loved seeing the children playing in the piazza. Two had found a grasshopper and were fascinated.

The Piazza Vecchietta, the main square of Castiglione d’Orcia, still has it original pebble paving and a 17th century well.
It is surrounded by homes (which must have an amazing view of the Valley).
The unseen side to the right is the town hall with bell tower that bears a UNESCO marker.
©Jean Janssen

The Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We drove next on winding and less populated roads through the Valley to the Abbey of Sant’ Antimo, only 10 km from Montalcino. The Abbey is next to the village of Castelnuove dell’Abate. Legend holds that the Abbey was founded by Charlemagne as a thank you for the end of a plague that hit his army.

Abbey wing where the Premonstratensian monks live. Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

In 1992 a community of French monks of the order of the Canon Regular were installed at the Abbey and have returned to using the Gregorian Chant during religious functions. The monks’ home was just to the side of the church and I saw one washing dishes as I took a picture of their produce garden courtyard.

Prior to viewing the church, we stopped at the gift shop and cemetery. A great bathroom stop (the gift shop that is). The cemetery was filled with evidence of yesterday’s all Saints Day visits by families with the fresh flowers on the graves still fragrant. Some families had also left small framed pictures of the deceased. Battery operated candles also seem to be popular. The roof of the gift shop served as a deck and a large family gathering was taking place there.

Interior of the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The church itself was quite lovely with its wood ceiling and sweeping arches. I particularly liked one of the columns and photographed it, to find out later it is the “famous one” representing Daniel in the lion’s den. There are alabaster and onyx elements that are almost translucent at certain times. I found myself touching some of the marble stones of the church as I walked around the exterior.

At the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.

I found the Abbey quite beautiful and the countryside lovely. I wouldn’t be surprised if the monks didn’t do a little grape producing as well. There were vineyards on the grounds. This was an unexpected treat and a special stop on our last day in Tuscany. We drove from there to Montalcino to see its Fortress. The city center was closed to traffic as all the parking places had been filled (as we have seen in other cities the last two days). This is one of the cities that they had warned us would be hard for Boris, so we took the no parking as a sign and headed back to Montefollonico, arriving late afternoon. I am beginning to get familiar with these roads (just in time for our departure).

The side wall of our garden in Montefollonico, part of the original city walls.
©Jean Janssen

The good news is I got to put the still wet clothes out in the sun to dry. I also got to enjoy a late afternoon in our garden which is one of the reasons we had chosen this house. When it was planned for Labor Day weekend, we had intended to spend more time outside in this private space. Only yesterday did I realize that one of the side walls of the garden was a part of the original city walls. Boris saw it today when he joined me briefly for sunset.

We are going back to 13 Gobbi (hunchback) for dinner and I might have to get that pasta mixed in the large cheese again. This evening I also have to pack. I told Boris some of the packing may have to be done in the morning as the clothes are not yet dry (but getting there). Ah, our last night in Montefollonico…

Our final sunset on the Tuscan landscape from our garden in Montefollonico.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international | Tagged 13, Abbey of Sant'Antimo, Bagno Vignoni, Castiglione d'Orcia, Montefollonico | Leave a comment

Chiusi, La Foce, and San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on November 1, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Sometimes this is how I feel in the morning. From the Etruscan Museum, Museo Nazionale Etusco, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

: The morning after…Retrieving my umbrella (left last night), I was able to take a picture of our table by the fireplace at La Chiusa, Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
@Jean Janssen

Our first stop this morning was La Chuisa. I had left my umbrella there last night and we still had rain this morning so I wanted to pick it up right away. The prep chef was working in the kitchen, so I got to see where the magic happens and also took a picture of our table from last night when we walked through to grab the umbrella.

Then we were on the road heading east to Chiusi, where ironically our waiter last night was from. The city is just after we crossed the A1 (autostrada). The drive over was fabulous. The hills and valleys were so green after the rain. It was cool but not cold.

The Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy. We were lucky, the museum had been closed for several days before we arrived and reopened the day we visited.
©Jean Janssen

Chiusi is an Etruscan town with a complete underground city. It is known for its Museo Archeologico Nazionale (The Etruscan Museum). The Museum was our first stop; the building itself draws you in.

According to Boris, many believe this to be the best museum of Etruscan artifacts. The Etruscans borrowed freely from the Greeks and the Egyptians, which was evident when you looked at the museum’s offerings.

Etruscan burial case for a “less well off” member of society. Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Chiusi, Toscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The items exhibited are from the 7th, 6th, 5th century BC found at or near Chiusi and shown on two floors of the museum. Pictures were ok without a flash so I went crazy. There was quite a collection of Etruscan funerary art. Even the less well off had cases with their likeness on the lid to be remembered fondly in death.

Leaving the museum by the lower floor door, (the guide mercifully let us out this way so Boris would not have to climb back up the stairs) we went to the Cathedral Plaza, Piazza C. Baldini, just “kitty corner” to the front of the museum.

The Roman cistern, water well, bell tower, bell chamber, and the Duomo in Piazza C. Baldini, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

There is a Roman cistern in the front of the bell tower and under the plaza from the 1st century BC; the bell tower was built in the 12 century with the brick bell chamber atop it was added in 1585. It was All Saints Day and mass was just ending when we arrived, so the Cathedral was open and we were able to go inside. On this occasion, all the reliquary is displayed and we made it in before it was removed. The Chiusi Duomo, the Cathedral of St. Secondiano, is built from Etruscan and Roman fragments and is the most ancient cathedral of Tuscany.

5th century mosaic floor tiles at the altar in the Cathedral of Saint Secondiano in Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We toured around other parts of the city down Via della Miscericorida passing the Church of Saint Maria Novella and ending up in Piazza XX Settembre with its fountain, municipal buildings, and Palazzos. From here I could see the pigeons favorite roost, and went in to see the Franciscan church and lit a candle for Mom. (I have tried to do this for her all over Italy, but especially on all Saints Day.)

The “bell tower” for the small Church of Saint Maria Novella is just a brick wall with openings to hang the bells. Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We ended up making just a short loop around as Boris’ foot was swelling. I “deposited” him in the car and went off in search of a bathroom, but there was only squatters to be found. Our car was parked near the Piazza C. Battisti with its column and wonderful view of the countryside, including Lake Chiusi. There are actually three lakes near Chiusi, and we took a detour to see them. On the way, we passed several nurseries and I wanted to get Emma some cypress trees to replace the ones she lost in a storm, but just didn’t know how to get them home.

There is much more to see/do in Chiusi if you are not physically challenged and like archaeology and/or underground sites. There are Etruscan tombs, catacombs, an underground city tour, and even an underground labyrinth. In the right weather, the lakes are another nice option. (Just use the bathrooms at the museum and avoid the public bathrooms).

In Piazza C. Baldini, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.

From here we went back in the direction we came once again passing through Chianciano Terme, famous for its baths, but not enough to entice us to stop. Boris need to rest so we decided to do a some drive through/by locations. On our list before arrival had been the gardens at La Foce, open to the public in the winter months only on Wednesday afternoons. The weather had kept us away yesterday, but we decided to drive by anyway just to get a feel for the area.

Castelluccio, next to La Foce where the landowners, the Marquis and Marchesa Origo, hid wounded British soldiers during World War II. On the bottom far left is the plaque of commemoration. Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The 15th century farmhouse was purchased by the Origos in 1924 and they began a restoration of the home and countryside. The Marquis was Italian, his wife was Anglo-American (her father was American, her mother was an Anglo-Irish aristocrat). During the second world war, the Origos used their estate as a partisians’ refuge, including 20 refugee children cared for by the family. Next to La Foce is Castelluccio, a castle ruin the Origos used to hide wounded British Soldiers. Some of this information is in the guidebooks, but most I have learned from Boris who read Marchesa Origo’s diary, War in Val d’Orcia, An Italian War Diary 1943-1944.

I thought this a lovely shot, with the winding lane lined with cypress trees, so I stopped and took the picture. Afterwards, Boris told me it is a famous view and that Prince Charles painted this angle on a visit to the Val d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

At the turnoff for La Foce, the run turns rough and while signposted, lacks state maintenance. You have to want to go there. There are some spectacular views. Since we saw only one vehicle while traveling to and from, I felt comfortable pulling over and taking a few pictures. I shot one and as we drove on Boris said he had seen that some vista in a book and then went back in read that Prince Charles had painted that view while in residence. The family still live at La Foce.

From here we were back on paved roads making our way to San Quirico D’Orcia and traveling through a national park. The Valley was extraordinary and at one point we saw the sun peaking through and we hopeful for better weather.

The sun breaking through on Val d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The Collegiata Church and Chigi Palace, San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We drove through the small hamlet of Monticchiello with its medieval forts and town walls. The Cassero tower can we seen from the distance. Heading on through the Val d’Orcia, I saw this fabulous castle come into view and was certain that was where we were headed, but our turn was in the opposite direction. So for me, explore Castiglione d’Orcia with its ruined fortress. The roads are said to be “tortuous, but beautiful.” It is also the route to the Abbey Sant’Antimo. Our destination was San Quirico d’Orcia, recommended for its beauty and accessibility for Boris.

The reliquary was out in full force on the altar at the Collegiata Church this All Saints Day. San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Boris got to the top of stairs from the parking lot and I could see we were doomed. I went back down, carried the wheelchair up the stairs and pushed him uphill. Once there, he was pretty good about letting me park him in a spot with a beautiful view and then me venturing in or around for pictures. He read the guidebook and told me what to look for. At the top of the hill was the Collegiata Church with the Chigi Palace next door.

Farther downhill was a small market with food products by one of the city gate and the public gardens. Boris read and shopped and I walked through the Horti Leonini (gardens).

One of the city gates. To the left is the entrance to the Horti Leonin, the public gardens. If you look through the archway you will see the statue of Cosimo de’Medici III in the center. The gardens are very large and manicured.
©Jean Janssen

I came out in time to suggest he get some cookies (dolci) for the ride home. His next parking place was a fire next to The Church of Santa Maria Assunta made entirely out of travertine.

Just outside the city gate, I noted the city walls looking very castle-like. Everything has a modern purpose though. There was a playground next to it with small children on the equipment and the older children, out of school today for the holiday, were playing soccer. I edited that out of my shot and then regretted it.

outside the city wall, San Quirico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

After I collected Boris, we continued to walk downhill to a Bar we had seen on the way in. We had not had lunch yet and decided to eat a full meal now and then snack on our market finds for supper. We caught the end of the lunch service; the same bar had been packed when we arrived in town. Afterwards I took Boris down to where the “pedestrian only” area started and he waited for me there while I collected the car and then him.

Boris hung out by the fire in front of the travertine church, St. Mary of the Asumption, San Quirico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

It was about 4:30 and the glorious sunset was starting. Unfortunately, we were headed in the opposite direction. That made it easier to drive (not looking into the sun), but I hated to miss the view. Unfortunately, the traffic was heavier and there was nowhere to pull over to get the picture. The memory of what I saw in the review mirror however, is embedded in my brain. We got home about 5:07 just after the sun set.

Boris took a nap. I chased the sunset around Montefollonico and then did a little laundry to make the packing easier tomorrow. Tomorrow!!! Not such a good idea as it turns out. Either I did it wrong or there is no spin cycle because it is all wet. I am not sure it will be dry when I need to pack. There is no dryer.

Someone got right on it. I know this wasn’t there yesterday, but its November 1 and a family in Montefollonico has put out a Christmas decoration.
©Jean Janssen

We had some fresh gnocchi, so I made a sauce for it and we melted some sheep’s cheese like we have seen in the restaurants and added some of our sliced meats to make it a meal. Had a little of the local Trequanda wine to go with that. Now Boris is sleeping and I am blogging. He asked what I wanted to do tomorrow on our last day at the house. There are so many choices. I guess it really doesn’t matter as long as I have dry clothes to do it in. Happy November from Tuscany.

Tonight’s Tuscan sunset from my garden. Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international | Tagged Castelluccio, Chiusi, Etruscan Museum, La Foce, SanQuirico d'Orcia, Val d'Orcia. Origos | Leave a comment

Happy Halloween on a rainy day from Tuscany

Posted on October 31, 2012 by travelbynatasha

A new pumpkin and gourds appeared outside our door this morning.
Montefollonio, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

It is a rainy day here and we had plans to visit the gardens of a famous villa close by that are only open on Wednesday afternoons. Unfortunately, it is too miserable to get out. (I suspect they are closed anyway.)

Mariella Pinelli’s Ceramica Montefonllonico is in a frescoed church in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We started out the morning by going to the local ceramics shop, Ceramica Montefollonico. The artist, Mariella Spinelli owns the home we are renting and her touches are found in several places like the title work in the bathroom. Her studio and shop are in a frescoed church in Montefollonico. She also offers classes. I found wonderful things in the shop. (I collect pottery.) We ordered some pieces to be custom-made and shipped home when complete. It will take 6-8 weeks, so we might get it for Christmas. I looked at many things and thought of picking up some gifts, but there is no way to know if it will make it on time. Guess it will all have to be for me!

Mariella offers classes in ceramics. Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Mariella had also offered to make reservations for us at La Chiusa, considered to be “one of the best restaurants in Italy”. (per Insight Guides; yes you can tell which guide book we brought with us.) She is a friend of the owner. It is also considered one of Tuscany’s fanciest restaurants. Hopefully they will cut us some slack on that given the cold and miserable weather. La Chiusa is set in an old mill and is just outside of Montefollonico. They use traditional recipes and local products.

At the shop I asked about Halloween which is apparently celebrated by some here. The comment was made that activities would be curtailed due to the weather. “The kids said they were going to watch a horror movie.” We have seen a few indications of Halloween around Tuscany. There was also a lucky find. The first day we were in town, Boris lost one of the ends to his four-footed cane. He has used it in a modified fashion ever since. Today, one of the vendors who came to met Mariella spotted the tip outside and noticed Boris’ cane and brought it to him. Well that’s worth something.

Aound 1:30 things were looking pretty grim for our afternoon touring, so Boris suggested lunch. I prepared the Tuscan antipasto platter using our market finds. We had three kinds of meat (I added prosciutto that we had bough at the store earlier), the three cheeses, olives, bread, and a little bowl of olive oil for dipping.

We drank a bottle of aqua frizzante and finished off an open bottle of wine. Boris said his foot is really bothering him today, probably a product of the weather and the cumulative effect of several days of touring. It was a good time for me to catch up on my photographs, start my photo journal, and update the blog. A few people needed “Happy Halloween” emails too.

Maggie in her “swiss style” Fantasyland costume when she works the fireworks at the new Fantasyland in the Magic Kingdom in Walt Disney World. This is in addition to her regular position at the Animal Kingdom as part of the college intership program.

I do have one “out of Italy” piece of news and a bit of an update for my regular blog followers. My niece Maggie who has been working at the Animal Kingdom at Walt Disney World this semester as a college intern has been asked to staff the new section of Fantasyland that is just opening. This is hot off the presses news today. My next trip there is planned for December, but maybe a November trip would also be appropriate.

Boris took a nap and the 3 pm opening time for the gardens came and went with the rain continuing. The fog is so thick you can barely see up the street. When the church bells rang at 4:30, I realized this was a full day inside and I couldn’t be happier.

I brought along my halloween slipper (a gift from mom). Perfect for the airplane over and blogging on a cold, wet, halloween day.
©Jean Janssen

La Chiusa was everything we hoped it would be. The drive with a little difficult with the fog so thick you could only see 15-20 feet ahead of you. There was a light crowd, but Mariella’s call had done the trick and we were given the best table next to the fireplace. It was a romantic setting with tiled floors, a wood beam ceiling, stuccoed walls, and brick archways. We ordered every course. Dania, the owner, came by our table twice. The first time was early in the evening when she stopped by with her granddaughter who was dressed as a strega (witch). She was adorable.

I had the porcini mushroom salad-excellent. Then advanced with the trio of pastas and the beef steak with truffles. Boris had the porcini mushroom soup, the pasta with truffles, and the veal chop. He asked the waiter for a wine suggestion in the nobile category after we ordered and I saw the look on his face when he saw the “nobile” prices. He ordered and when they waiter walked away Boris said “this is our anniversary dinner”. The wine was excellent.

The steward filled my prosecco glass gratis several time and Boris had at least two refills of his after dinner drink on the house, but the bill was still outrageous and worth every penny for this special occasion. Everything we ate was superb. Dania came out again and visited with us before we left. She was fascinated by Boris four-

tip cane (even more so since all four tips are actually there) and his grasp of Italian. She has owned the restaurant for 36 years. There are also some special accommodations you can rent. When he filled Boris’ glass one more time, I suggested that the waiter would have to take him home. He said he could just stay in one of the room and I could pick him up tomorrow.

Another difficult drive home in the dense fog and someone stole our parking space. Holiday tomorrow so many people we out late tonight. I did pretty well parallel parking after that much wine. Happy Anniversary Boris.

And Happy Halloween to all my readers, Natasha.

Posted in Disney, international | Tagged Ceramica Montefollonico, Fantasyland, La Chiusa Montefollonica, Mariella Spinelli, Montefollonico | Leave a comment

Hills, Valleys, Flats, and Mountains, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on October 31, 2012 by travelbynatasha

The Church of Saints Peter and Andrew in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy dominates the main piazza. the 14th Century church is Romanesque in style and has a black and white ashlar facade creating a chromatic effect.
@Jean Janssen

Not with my hips! Staircase leading to a small door on the main piazza in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy. This is how I felt about the size of the roads in Petroio.
©Jean Janssen

Today we toured hill and valleys, and flats and mountains. We started off close to home in the medieval hilltown of Petroio. Nothing was open yet and the town is rather isolated, so we did a drive-through. You leave the main road and are reminded what the town is known for-pottery. There is a big factory there. I was worried that it wouldn’t be very picturueque until we turned the corner and there the road continued under a canopy of trees. Lovely. The village is small and the streets very narrow and one way. The town is just as a preserved village should be. There was one spot there you were making 90 degree turns in the space for a single car. You miss the buildings by what feels like inches. Pretty proud of myself for handling that drive.

The Cacciaconti Castle with its imposing cylindrical tower in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy. It was closed for renovations during our visit.
©Jean Janssen

We drove on to Trequanda passing other hilltowns in the distance. There were orchards of olive trees and we spotted workers beginning a harvest. Boris wanted to make a stop in Trequanda due to the military history and the remaining castle fortress which was unfortunately under renovation and not open. No parking close by so I dropped him off in town and parked at the bottom of the hill. Things were pretty quiet and I felt like all of Boris’ words were echoing through the town square particularly when he chose to announce that this was still a very communist city. By the looks we got, I not sure they get many visitors.

The church’s black and white ashlar facade created a chromatic effect unusual in the area. The interior was simple and there was a charge to light the paintings (unless you had a flash which was permitted). Boris spent most of this time in the information center and picked up a few books and a bottle of the local wine. I reminded him that if he buys it he carries it, but I always end up taking it. I get dirty looks from people thinking “that poor man and that young woman is making him carry all the packages.” (I added the “young” part.)

Saint’s Coffin just below the altar in Chiesa di S. Agostino, just inside the Fiorrentina gate in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

From here we went to Sinalunga, passing the first hitchhiker we had seen in years. There are lots of wineries in this area and we drove on two-land roads through the vineyards. The lower town of Sinalunga is unremarkable. When we reached the upper town we found that the central section was cut off by a large market. Parking was remote. I couldn’t seen get Boris close enough to drop him off. I don’t mind running the gauntlet through the market, but it looked pretty cheesy and path looked treacherous for Boris. He learned his lesson yesterday and wisely said lets skip it. We could see the top of the duomo in the distance; it was even more impressive looking up from the lower town.

Olive tree at the bell tower for St. Agostino Church in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy. A circular metal bench is at the base of the tree for visitors.
©Jean Janssen

It was 11:30 am and we had already blown through Boris itinerary for the day, so we headed to Arezzo, which was on the list as a separate trip later in the week. We didn’t get on the Autostrada (A1) but crossed it and rode through a flat area of Tuscany with lots of farming. Attractive, but we have been jaded by the beauty of the valleys and hilltowns. We saw the snow-capped mountains in the distance as we drove to Arezzo, but didn’t actually stop in the city, instead turning east to go through the mountains to Sansepolcro, enclosed by the Alpe di Catenaia and Alpe della Luna. The city is the birthplace of Piero della Francesca (for art enthusiasts) and the Buitoni pasta company (you have seen it in our stores). The art you have to drive in for; the butuni factory you can’t miss as you enter the city.

A tree-lined avenue showing its fall color lead to the old walled-city. Passing through the Fiorentina gate, we found the old city rather quiet and headed in. I made a quick stop in Chiesa di S. Agostino, just inside the gate. Apparently there had been a market earlier in the day and they were just beginning to take down the stalls. I watched a vender as he pulled in the very large canopy that extended out from his van. He had machinery on top that would pull it in to fit in a rather small space the length of this van. Unsold merchandise went inside the van and he was off. This “canopy van” was not unique; many of the vendors had them.

When we reached the main square, Piazza Torre Di Berta, it was “break time”, that midday siesta still enjoyed in many parts of Italy. Shops, museums, offices, ect are closed so the workers can have lunch, often going home for several hours. Anytime between 1 and 4 pm you might have a problem getting to enjoy your planned excursion. The best thing to do is go with it and have your lunch then too. The restaurants, bars, and quick stops shops are all open. Italians don’t have a big morning meal, but they do have a long lunch around 2 pm and dinner no earlier than 8 pm. If the restaurant you are at is open before 8 for dinner, it caters to tourists.

The Piazza Torre Di Berta, the main square in Sanseplcro was full of vendors when we arrived. In the time it took for me to tour the Duomo and have lunch it was cleared out. On the far left, the last vendor is clearing out. On the far right, the street cleaner and garbage truck are handling clean up.
©Jean Janssen

The Duomo, just north of the main square, was open so I walked around it while Boris set off for the tourist office (which of course was closed). We met again to have lunch outside the Duomo and wait for the Museo Civico to open at 2:30. The clean up on the main square was in full swing and we watched the venders pack up, the street cleaner come through, and the trash collector pick up what was left (and we also had a lovely view of the Cathedral). In spite of it being a cold day, the bar had tables outside in the full sun and it was wonderful. It wasn’t until the end of our meal when the sun had moved on that we again felt the chill. (Bars in Italy are also a casual type restaurant; I confess; I had pizza again.)

The Resurrection by Piero della Francesca, 15th Century.

After lunch, we toured the museum, also north of the main square and just off Piazza Garbialdi (although the entrance is off Via Niccolo Aggiunti) and saw the famous works of art originally in the Duomo. Boris said The Resurrection by Piero della Fancesca has been described as the “perfect painting”. I know nothing about art, but I liked the painting. Jesus’ expression was odd, even severe, but he had perfect abs (a long walk to Jerusalem can do that for you). It was those “guarding” the tomb, off course fast asleep and in medieval garb, that drew my attention. The museum actually had several pieces that I liked included a multi-paneled gold altar piece with a bald Mary, also by Piero della Francesca. Bald Mary (considered to be wearing “a transparent veil”) is what caught my eye, but it is the work itself that keeps your attention.

The Madonna of Mercy by Piero della Frandesca (commissioned in 1445).
Now in the Museo Civico in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy.

Boris was tiring out, so I finished the museum on my own and we went back to collect the car. It was about 3:30 at this point and we had an hour and 20 minute drive back to the house. We should have turned back. He was tired, the sky was cloudy now, and we were going to be coming in a different way. Well, we didn’t. We were relatively close to Michangelo’s birthplace in the mountains so we went for it. My conditions were: we could make the turn around in 40 minutes or less, I would not have to drive in the dark, Boris knew exactly how to get back, and he would not later claim it was too dark to read the map. I was very specific. I said these things several times. (You can see what is coming.)

This is the wooden door to the Cathedral in Sansepolcro. I thought the heads made for an interesting picture.
©Jean Janssen

We set out passing through Anghiari. Boris was thrilled and gave me the complete history. Anghiari was the site of a famous battle between the Florentine army supported by the pope and Milanese troops who had recently won in Sansepolcro wanted to expand the Duke of Milan’s holdings in Tuscano. The walled city sat right on the edge of the hill looking as if it is going to fall off any minute save the high city walls. We made it to Caprese Michangelo and did a drive through to see the church he was baptized in and the small hamlet of buildings almost completely surrounded by walls. Again the view was better after you left and looked back up. Headed back to Anghiari, we saw a lovely lake, which Boris said was a dammed part of the Tiber River.

Anghiari, eastern Tuscano, Italy, was the site of a famous battle between the papal-supported Florentine army and Milanese troops trying to expand the Duke of Milan’s holdings in Tuscany. The battle was also the subject of a lost Leonardo Di Vinci fresco in Palazzio Vecchio which some believe still exists under the current paintings.

We reached Anghiari and I really wanted to capture a picture of the city from below, but both routes we tried took us a different way and you could see the darkness coming with the clouded sky. There was a section of the highway were I thought I spotted more hitchhikers on the way out. When we got close, I changed my opinion of the mini-skirted, knee-high boot wearing young women, one of whom was sitting in a white plastic chair as if this were a frequent hangout. Boris said they were gypsies. Gypsies? Not what I was thinking. On the way back, one of them was there again. Boris came around to my way of thinking.

Once back near Arezzo we got on the Autostrada and realized how far we had come. We exited at the familiar exit from the first day. We were now under a quarter of a tank and I spotted a gas station and suggested we stop, but Boris said to wait until one was convenient. (He means on our side of the road.) Big mistake. You always stop because many of these small communities don’t have stations or they are not open late.

Then we got to THE INTERSECTION and Boris told me to follow the road to Montepulciano. I told him it didn’t look familiar. Came to another roundabout. I said I didn’t remember this many roundabouts. He said the first right. We went under a bridge. I told him I didn’t remember the bridge. Boris confessed he wasn’t sure which way. I pull over and he gets the map. We go back. He takes us another way. Thinks it is also wrong. I suggest the map. He says it is too dark to read it. Of course, because now it is dark and we are very low on gas and of course we have not passed another gas station. Finally, I pull into a small community grocery store. Remind Boris about the conditions of me driving in Italy and that all have been broken. He does the unthinkable for a guy. He goes into the grocery store and asks directions. Thank God for his Italian lessons. Yes, we found gas and made it home. No, I was not happy.

The butcher at the Montefollonico market kept giving us samples and we ended up going home with two types of meats and three cheeses.
©Jean Janssen

As we drove in, what is happening-a market!! Ah, the way to Natasha’s heart-shopping. Can I be won over with meat, cheese, and vegetables? On this occasion yes. That and not suggesting I cook tonight. He admitted at dinner he knew he couldn’t ask about cooking dinner and that he knew I would blog about this. Its called venting Boris! We ate again at La Botte Piena and had an even better meal. Boris had two super beers (each about 3/4 the size of a bottle of wine). Spotted this wonderful jack-o-lantern on our street and felt festive.

Come on. I am in Italy. It was a great day.

Posted in international | Tagged Caprese Michelangelo, La Botte Piena Montefollonico, Montefollonico, Peroio, Sansepolero, Sinalunga, Trequanda | Leave a comment

Pienza and Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on October 30, 2012 by travelbynatasha

This is our first real full day of touring. I let Boris make the selections since he is navigating and has the physical restrictions. He has also done a better job of preparing for this trip, destination wise. Normally I am all over reading the guidebooks and I did do that several months ago, but since the trip was up in the air until Wednesday of last week, I just didn’t want to read and get excited about a trip I might not get to take.

View from the wall walk in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy.
From the wall vantage point, you can see Monte Amiata and the Val d’ Orcia.
©Jean Janssen

We ate breakfast out of our stash at home (yea, we used some of the groceries) and set out to reach our first destination at 10ish. The time changed here the day we arrived so it is getting dark earlier. Our first stop was Pienza, only about 11 km from Montefollonico. Oh but what an 11km it was. I am an old pro at the driving now and had a chance to look at the scenery along our two-lane road. Breathtaking. The Tuscan hills and valleys are spectacular. You constantly feel like you are looking at a postcard or National Geographic photo.

Parking is always an issue, but since it was early we found a spot just outside the old city. Boris referred to this as a “model town”. The guide books refer to it as “an exquisite Renaissance doll house” and an “utopian town”. Pope Pius II took his home town of Corsignano and created the “first masterpiece in modern town planning”. His architect was the Florentine Bernardo Rossellino. With the addition of a cathedral, the pope renamed the city Pienza after himself. The papal seal is found on the facade of the cathedral. I found the city charming and perfectly situated.

The well on the cathedral square, Piazza Pio II where you will also find the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Piccolomini (the pope’s home), and the Museo Diocesano.
©Jean Janssen

This is Boris’ first real day of pushing himself with tourism. He had to deal with a lot with the air travel, but he was mostly in a wheelchair. Today, at his request, we left the wheelchair in the backseat of the car and started out on foot and cane. He took a few breaks which allowed me to wander around and take pictures. However, my first stop was to buy a hat. I came equipped with coat, gloves, and scarf, but with highs in the 30s something more was needed. I bought this cute grey one without a thought as to how to get it home. My visa didn’t work (my fault for not calling them before I left. Amex is used to my foreign travel and told me I don’t need to call anymore before I leave.) The grey hat took the last of my cash. Thank heavens for a digital camera. I can snap about without hesitation and it doesn’t cost a penny more to take those pictures.

A more fragrant option-mums in a cornucopia in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy. Actually, do mums smell? Everything in this area of the city smelled like cheese so I am not sure.
©Jean Janssen

We spent about two hours roaming around Pienza which has been rated the second best hilltown in Tuscany by Insight Guides. (San Gimignano, one our residences during our honeymoon and the most romantic of them all, is well deserting of first place.) Pienza is also famous for its excellent pecorino cheese and there was plenty of it to be found. Not what I thought I was smelling the first time I caught a whef (you don’t want to know). Its in such abundance that the smell was overwhelming. Just follow your nose.

We hated to give up our great parking spot (and what an excellent job of parallel parking Natasha if I say so myself), but it was on to another of Insight Guides‘ top 10 hilltowns, Montepulciano. We can actually see Montepulciano from the end of our street in Montefollonico. When I was at the vantage point near Chiesa del Triano, I spotted and photographed this marvelous city without knowing what it was. It is only 5 km away but reached by winding roads that are longer.

We parked just outside the Porta al Prato. Its pre-paid metered parking and just suck it up and pay more than you think you will need. You don’t want to have to walk down just to put in more coins. (The going rate at press time is 1.3 euro per hour.) Once inside, you quickly reach the Piazza Savonarola with a statute of the Marzocco lion on a column, the symbol of Florentine power. Just to the left is a Bancomat so I replenished my cash. Meanwhile, Boris spotted the wine tastings.

There are underground cellars in Montepulciano, some of which you can tour for free. We went into one shop with an Etruscan tomb as the draw. We tried three wines in the tasting and Boris got one bottle but I was unimpressed by the selections. There is also more cheese and that smell. Don’t get me wrong, I love the taste.

You follow this main street, Via di Gracciano nel Corso up to the main square, a long steep climb. Lining the street are noble palaces.

One nobleman adorned the facade of this palace with Etruscan tomb markers (“headstones”). The corso is also lined with shops of every kind and a few restaurants. Wine tasting is abundant. We were warned against coming to Montepulciano, but Boris really wanted to see the Piazza Grande (the main square) and so we started uphill. Along the way were many wonderful photo opportunities and I took full advantage of his slower pace and rest stops to grab pictures. One of my favorites was the bell tower across from Chiesa Di Santa Agostino with the figure on top.

The climb was extremely difficult for Boris and more than once I suggested that we had gone far enough, but he was determined to reach the top. He knew that the climb was far too steep for me to push him up in a wheelchair. At times when he leaned on me I could barely support his weight. After a visit to the Chiesa Del Gesu, we reached a crossroads to a scenic walk around and up to the plaza or the steep climb directly up to the high point. This is where Boris said enough. I frankly don’t know how he made it this far. He sat down and camera in hand I made the last and steepest climb to the top.

The Grand Piazza is indeed large, open, and impressive. Few people had made it this far and the limited crowd made it seem even more massive. The Cathedral is there along with the Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Taruci, and the Palzzo Contucci.

I didn’t want to leave Boris long, but I did tour the Duomo and saw the Bartolo masterpiece, the Assumption. I loved the gold altarpiece.

Anyone making the climb sees the same faces along the way, and I had an Australian friend snap a picture of me so I can prove I made it. Note the grey hat, my purchase from earlier in the day.

On the steps of the Duomo (Cathedral) in Piazza Grande, Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.

I headed down to meet up with Boris. I told him if he was ready he could start down and I would catch up since our parking meter would be running out. He wasn’t in the place I left him so I was encouraged that he had started down. I found him after a short distance enjoying a beer and announcing that he had ordered appetizers and that the bar had pizza.

You should know I love Italian pizza, so much that I won’t eat American pizza anymore. I looked at him, knew we had only 20 minutes left on the parking and also knew I couldn’t say no. (bribing me with pizza, how unfair is that?) Actually I knew he was disappointed to have not reached the top, we I trekked down to the bottom, added coins to the parking meter, and went back up. I was so hot when I got there, off came the coat, gloves, hat, scarf, and the sleeves got rolled up. Two beers in, Boris was happy and the pizza was worth it. I also didn’t feel guilty eating knowing I had gotten that exercise.

I just liked this little guy and wanted to fit this picture in before the end of the blog. If you need to tie up your horse while visiting the Piazza Pio II in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy, you are all set.
©Jean Janssen

At our late lunch (by American standards), Boris discussed our next city, but after he made the climb down he was tired and we packed it in for the day. On the way back, we found the old road to Montefollonico and I drove through the vineyards and the valley that I see from the end of our street near Chiesa del Triano. It might have been the prettiest road of the day. (It was certainly the roughest.)

As I anticipated, when we arrived home at about 4 pm (only 2 hours before dark), Boris took a nap. I’ll be going to the store later in the evening-yes I forgot toilet paper the first day-and making dinner in tonight. But for the rest of the daylight hours I will sit in the kitchen and work on this blog and enjoy a spectacular sunset from my garden with no regrets that we didn’t rush off to another hilltown.

Posted in international | Tagged Montefollonico, Montepulciano Italy, Montepulciano Tuscano Italy, Pienza Italy, Pienza Tuscano Italy | 2 Comments