Today will be our final stop before reaching Boston in a few days. We are docked at Halifax, Nova Scotia. There are lots of different tour opportunities but Peggy’ Cove came up as #1 more times than not on all the reviews I read so that is the plan. If we can do the hop-on/hop-off bus in the afternoon that would complete our day. We were lucky to get in and out of Halifax and Peggy’s Cove before post-tropical cyclone Lee hit the area and knocked out power for two days.
We actually had a sea day in between Newfoundland and Nova Scotia even though they are very close to one another. We were able to do a backstage tour of the Celebrity Theater aboard the Summit as a Elite Status perk. Three of the performers led the tours. We had one of the male dancers. The stage perspective was interesting as was the backstage equipment. The tour ended with a walk through of the dressing rooms, one for the girls, one for the guys. Petty tight quarters.
We docked in Halifax early. We had to meet for our tour at 7:30 am so we had an early breakfast. Luckily we got our half hour of time back after leading Newfoundland. On the way out to Peggy’s Cove we saw a little bit of the city of Halifax. Halifax is the largest city in and the capital city of Nova Scotia (New Scotland) and has a rich military and maritime history.
We passed some lovely waterside communities, some with spectacular houses on the way to St. Margaret’s Bay and Peggy’s Cove. The cove sits at the eastern edge of St. Margaret’s Bay. “Peggy’s Cove is famed for its picturesque and typically East-Coast profile, with houses perched along a narrow inlet and on wave-washed boulders facing the Atlantic. Although this unique environment has been designated a preservation area, it is still an active fishing community.” –novascotia.com
Peggy’s Cove is about an hour from Halifax. But even with our early departure, the cove was already swarming with people. We drove through the village winding our way to the lighthouse and parking areas. It was like a preview of all the things you could do from visiting artisan workshops, stores, churches, cafes and restaurants, and wonderful vantage points for pictures. There are more than 160 historic lighthouses in Canada and the one at Peggy’s Cove is arguably the most famous. It sits at the point among artistic boulders that can become very dangerous when wet. I spotted a bagpiper standing among the rocks. That is pretty appropriate for a province named New Scotland.
After a bathroom stop, I went to see our guide who was showing us the in and outs of lobsters. They are a mainstay here. They share the waters with those from Maine that our famous among Americans. I even got to hold one of them. Then I took a few more pictures of the lighthouse before wandering off into the village.
Today was all about the scenic beauty of this wonderful place. However I did go into a few shops, my favorite of which was the Crooks family shop that they have had in Peggy’s Cove since 1948. I did wonder about the origin of the family name. 🙂
As I walked through town, I came to the granite carving depicting the fisherman and families of Peggy’s Cove. The sculptor who did the carving is William E. deGarthe who lived locally. We saw lots of evidence that fishing continues in the area as a thriving business.
There were lots of lobster traps around, both the older traditional wood ones and the newer coated metal ones. The concept is the same. The lobster goes in through the opening, eats, and then is no longer able to get out.
After I saw the carving, I turned around and went back to the lighthouse area where we were meeting the bus. There had been so much talk about these lobsters that I decided to get a lobster roll. The restaurant right at the parking lot had a togo window, so I picked one up there and ate it on the bus. Fabulous. I loved Peggy’s Cove. If you like beautiful scenery or to take pictures it is a must-see.
As we left Peggy’s Cove, our guide told us about the Swissair Flight that crashed into St. Margaret’s Bay in September of 1998. The crash site was only 5 miles southwest of Peggy’s Cove. All 229 aboard lost their lives. “The cove became one of the staging areas for first responders that were involved in the search-and-rescue response, crash recovery operation, and investigation of the crash. Many of the CCGA volunteers that were first to approach the crash site were privately owned fishing boats that were operating out of Peggy’s Cove and surrounding harbours.” Wikipedia A memorial has been placed along the shoreline of St. Margaret’s Bay.
When we reached Halifax, we drove by two of the cemeteries where victims of the Titanic disaster are buried. We also saw several naval vessels in port and passed the dockyard for Canada’s Atlantic fleet.
We saw some pretty cool historic buildings in the port area. There also have a very nice passenger terminal. I was ready to to walk back to to one of the interesting seafood restaurants we had seen, but Boris was tired. The line for hop-on/hop-off bus was crazy long so we decided to get back on board relax and have a late lunch. I definitely need to return so I can see more of Halifax.
Boris was tired and wanted to nap and I thought about going out in the area near the passenger terminal but he wasn’t too happy with me doing that so I just went out by the pool on this warm, sunny day. I actually had a great time resting, reading, and listening to music. It turned out to be just the right move. The next day, our final sea, was cold and cloudy and it was like that all the way into Boston. We had our best seat of the cruise in the dining room for breakfast, just by the back facing window. My picture of Boris is facing into the ship however. The fog was so thick you couldn’t see anything out that window. Disappointing. Needless to say, it wasn’t pool weather so I am so glad I went out the day before. Good nap and packing weather though.
After visiting Iceland and Greenland, our cruise through the North Atlantic continued with two sea days before we reached the coast of Canada and the island of Newfoundland. Our lecturers talked about seals (I have the perfect hat for that), puffins, and jets. What was missing were lectures on the history of the countries we were visiting. What about information on the Inuit, the Vikings, or the Norwegian or Danish explorers? But perhaps the oddest thing we did on our sea days was adjust our clocks a half hour. “When time zones were introduced in the late 19th century, Newfoundlanders chose their 30-minute offset because that was close to the local solar time in St. John’s, the city where most Newfoundlanders lived.” –-Britannica The 30-minute time difference only applies to the island of Newfoundland and not the rest of the province.
Today we dock in St. John’s in the Canadian Province of Newfoundland and Labrador. This is the capital city and the largest city in the province. It was settled by the British in the 1600s. St. John’s is also the easternmost point of Canada at Cape Spear just under seven and half miles from the city center.
Until 1949, Newfoundland was an independant Dominion within the British Empire. It became the 10th and newest province of Canada that year. In 2021, the name was changed to Newfoundland and Labrador. The province is made up of the island of Newfoundland and the mainland region of Labrador which borders the Province of Quebec.
94% of the entire population of the province lives in Newfoundland and most of those in the capital city of St. John’s. Today the residents are of English and Irish descent. When Europeans first reached Newfoundland in the 16th century, “the Beothuk were the only indigenous group living permanently on the island.” –Ingeborg Marshall, The History and Ethnography of the Beothuk. Today, 3.2% of the population consider themselves “First Nation”.
The country’s economy was quite depressed after the collapse of the cod industry in the 1990’s but the emergence of oil exploration and production, continued mining in Labrador, diversified fishing, and even some agriculture in southern Newfoundland have contributed to a stronger economy in the province today.
Folk music with a strong Irish influence is quite popular in the province. The culture of the region is best explored in the local museum known as The Rooms. Soccer (football) and rugby are the most popular sports, although there is a minor league hockey team The Growlers. However, if you asked our guide, he would tell you that softball is the most popular sport for men and women in St. John’s.
Today’s excursions were pretty limited and mostly sold out, so we decided to take the local hop-on/hop-off bus as we do in many cities. It was a short walk from the pier to the hotel on Water street where the first bus stop was. They were running four buses, but I think they might have underestimated the crowds. When we got there the wait for the next available bus was 50 minutes (the line was much longer when we got back). The bus got there 30 minutes early, but we had to wait for the actual departure time to leave although the bus-actually more like an extended minivan-was full. This worked in our favor since Boris decided to walk around a bit when we found there would be a wait. I grabbed a seat and he luckily made it back in time.
The cost was C $50 or $45 for those 55 and over $35 for those under 12. (We paid about $70 US for tickets for both of us.) The route took about an hour and a half if you just stayed on the bus. We learned pretty quickly that we needed to do that. People were very angry when our bus would reach a stop and there was no room for anyone to get on because no one wanted to get off the bus. This often happens early in the day. It is not unusual for Boris and I to do an orientation loop and then get off on the second go around.
Our first stop was Signal Hill and Cabot’s Tower. The tower was built in 1898 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of John Cabot’s landing in Newfoundland, and Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. The real significance of the tower is that this is the point where Guglielmo Marconi received the first transatlantic wireless message, the letter “S” in morse code, sent from Cornwall, England in 1901. Signal Hill was originally used for flag signaling by the British military.
Our second stop was at the Johnson Geo Center which we passed on the way up to the tower. The facility is a science center affiliated with the local Memorial University. Just FYI, the center’s Titanic exhibit is no longer there (since the COVID closure). Some guests were disappointed to get off, pay an entrance fee, and then find out the exhibit was no longer there. The center’s director actually came running out to tell our bus.
The next stop was Quidi Vidi Village, a neighborhood in St. John’s next to Quidi Vidi Lake where the Royal St. John’s Regatta is held annually. It was quite charming. If we weren’t worried about getting a seat on another bus and if it would have been late enough to grab lunch, I would have gotten off the bus. The driver/guide had been telling us all morning about the fabulous fish and chips in St. John’s. Cod is currently in season. I thought about coming back on a second loop and then taking a cab back to the ship if necessary.
The fishing village is at the far end of the lake so we made the loop around Quidi Vidi Lake before heading back into the heart of St. John’s. Our next stop was Bannerman Park. The park includes open spaces, a children’s playground, walking trails, an ice skating trail for the winter and a pool and splash pad for the summer.
After leaving the park, we made two more stops in town at The Rooms, a recommended cultural museum, and at the Newman Wine Vaults. Then we made the drive out to Cape Spear.
It was a nice drive along the coast out to Cape Spear, the easternmost point in Canada and North America. The Cape is not far from the heart of St. John’s, only 12 km (less than 7.5 miles) to the southeast. Just go out route 11 until it ends at the Cape.
They do a good job of marketing the Cape: “Watch the First Sunrise of North America…It’s our geographic position, jutting out into the North Atlantic that gives us the honour of receiving the sun first before anyone else on the continent. And with it comes a half-hour off-kilter time zone and, some would say, an extra half hour in the morning. It’s safe to say, though, that firsts are nothing unusual around here. Suffice it to say, as one of the oldest cities in North America, we’ve seen more than our fair share in the last 500 years. To name a few:
We were the first to respond to the RMS Titanic’s distress signal that fateful night in 1912. The first non-stop transatlantic flight took off from St. John’s in 1919. And wireless communication was received here first when the letter S was transmitted from Cornwall, England to Signal Hill, St. John’s. As monumental as these historical moments may be, if you find yourself standing here at the edge of the continent at first morning light, you’ll likely be a little preoccupied.” —NewfoundlandandLabrador.com.
On the way back into town, we made an unscheduled photo stop and had a nice view of the city from our elevated position. Then we drove right by the next stop, The Railroad Museum At the final stop, our driver had to recommend to those waiting that they go to the first stop because the bus was full.
Even though we could have stayed on the bus, there were so many people in line that Boris and I decided to get off and give someone else a chance to see the sights. We decided to walk around town, maybe find one of the pubs the guide recommended, and check out the local fish and chips during cod season.
The pedestrian street was only one block up and we loved the charming building facades and the tables that had been placed in the middle of street so you could take a break or enjoy food or drink from a shop/cafe or food truck.
Our guide had recommended several cafes and pubs for excellent fish and chips. The first one we came to was out of business and second one was the Yellowbelly Brewery and and Public House. It had that traditional pub look and a line that said it had been recommended. I had talked to a girl on the bus (one of few that got a seat when some people got off at Cape Spear) who had been in St. John’s a week and this was the place she ate at several times. We felt pretty safe giving it a try.
We put our names on the list and went and did a little shopping. I found some cute puffin stuff and Boris got a hat, although I am not sure when he is going to wear this one. When we got back to Yellowbelly, we didn’t have long to wait for our table. We both ordered the cider. Unfortunately they didn’t have any on draft but we got one in a can made from glacier iceberg water. We ordered onion rings as an appetizer and fish and chips for lunch. Unfortunately, it was all awful. Sorry can’t recommend anything we got here, not even the cider. Cool building though.
After lunch, we wandered around town, into a few more shops, and then back to the ship. It had become a warm, sunny day and I was definitely overdressed at this point. When we reached the pier, I could hear a bagpipe. I looked around until I spotted a guy just standing in a parking lot playing the instrument. At least he was dressed for the weather.
Once I got back on the ship, I changed into something cooler. From our cabin balcony, I had a great view of the city, the goings on, and the colored row houses all over the town. We had a fun day in St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador, Canada.
During dinner we had a great view of Signal Hill and the coastline of Newfoundland as the ship departed. On to another Canadian province as we head to Halifax, Nova Scotia.
I would like to say I am checking off a new country today when I step foot in Greenland, but its classification is a bit tricky. Technically it is an autonomous territory that is part of the Kingdom of Denmark. I guess it is a country within a kingdom. Greenland’s citizens do enjoy the benefits of residents in the European Union since they are part of the Kingdom. Regardless, it is still pretty exciting to say I have been there. Yesterday, we took a breathtaking cruise through the Prins Christian Sund, named for the Prince who would later become the King Christian VIII of Denmark.
The territory is vast, more than 3 times the size of the US State of Texas, a comparison that works for this Houstonian. In spite of the fact that Greenland is the world’s largest island, it is the least densely populated country in the world with 0.026 people per square kilometer. Why? 80% of the country is covered by an ice sheet that is second to only Antarctica’s in size. Yes, it would be far more appropriate if Greenland was named Iceland and Iceland was Greenland. There is a reason that Iceland is a popular tourist mega and Greenland has very few visitors. Cruises ships running aground in the northern fjords of Greenland and taking more than three days to get unstuck doesn’t help the tourism cause. Today, Natasha is one of the lucky few. First, our ship didn’t get stuck and second I get to step off and into a country most people will never visit.
Two thirds of the island lies within the Arctic Circle. At one point, Greenland is only 500 miles from the North Pole. “Seals and whales are found in the surrounding waters and were formerly the chief source of nourishment for the Greenlanders.” -Britannia Activism and world views have changed this habit and livelihood. The 56,609 people that live in Greenland (2023 numbers) have settled along the coast and are mostly fisherman and hunters. Some sheep farming is found on the southern coast.
“The first humans to set foot on Greenland arrived some 4,000-5,000 years ago…No less than six different Inuit cultures have migrated in distinct waves. Greenland’s current population is descended from the last migration, the Thule culture, who began arriving in the 1200s AD. At the same time, Norsemen led by the Norwegian Viking Erik the Red settled in Southern Greenland. The Norse population disappeared around 1500AD.” —Denmark.dk
Today we are anchored in the harbor off Nanortalik, Greenland, the southernmost city on the island. Most of today’s excursions are iceberg tours and they were all sold out months before we got on board the ship. We saw so many icebergs yesterday, I don’t feel like I missing out not going on an iceberg tour today. Nanortalik is a great place from which to visit the Qinngua Valley, the only natural forest in Greenland. We are taking the tender in to visit the city’s open-air museum in the colonial area of Nanortalik.
Nanortalik is “place of the polar bears”, although today polar bears are rarely seen in the area. The primary industry is based at the local fish factory. This was one of the first places settled by the Norse and more recently the Inuit. The Inuit people are found in Greenland, Quebec and Labrador, Canada, and Alaska. The Greenlandic Inuit are descendants of the Thule.
While yesterday was foggy and cold, today rain was predicted. We got up and had breakfast and then went to grab a priority tender. These priority tenders were offered on the other tender day as well, but we were on an excursion and didn’t need it. This service is for those who frequently take cruises on Celebrity. We were walked directly down to the loading ramp by Celebrity personell as soon as the next boat came in. To be on the safe side, I grabbed my rain jacket and Boris took the umbrella the ship had provided (one per cabin).
We needed it. By the time we reached the shore, the rain was coming down hard. As we got off the ship, we were given a “day pass”, essentially a ticket for the open air museum. Boris had done his research and really wanted to see this museum. Local regulations require everyone leaving the pier to have a day pass. There are not a lot of roads in Greenland. Access to most communities in Greenland is via the water. The town buildings all appeared to be constructed with function in mind. There was very little beauty until we got to the old colonial area of the town. We didn’t see any signs in English to indicate what was a store, a school, etc. (Of course everyone that lives here knows what is what.) The only marked building was the tourism office. The area is not large, but you need to be prepared to walk. Nothing is very far away; it was just uncomfortable due to the rain. We did not see any buses, bus stops, taxis, or car rental agencies, so be sure to arrange your transportation before you go.
When Boris and I reached the church we went right in, as much to get a break from the rain as to tour the inside. It was actually quite lovely. Of course everyone had the same idea and it was a small space so things were crowded.
We reached the open-air museum and handed over our day pass and were give a sticker as access for the museum. This was paid for by the cruise line. The museum is actually a series of buildings each with a different focus. One was on the whaling history; another was on the medical issues faced by the people who live here: a third was set up as traditional home; etc.
The museum was very well done and each stop provided us a chance to get out of the rain. I had not thought about it ahead of time, but my tennis shoes have holes to provide air circulation and keep my feet cooler. Unfortunately that meant my feet and socks got wet, actually soaked. The rain was pretty bad and people who were wearing hiking boots said their feet got soaked too. I could have used some rain boots. I would also have liked to have rain pants. I had ordered some before the trip, but even the women’s variety were not good for a curvy woman. They were either too big or too small so I sent them back. If you can find them in your size, I suggest taking them along when touring Iceland and Greenland, even in the summer.
After we completed our tour of the open-air museum, we doubled back toward the pier again. This time we made a stop in the tourist office which had a shop. It was so crowded with people that you couldn’t even move inside. There are also toilets inside the building which was part of the reason for the crowd. Boris decided to do his shopping outside. Some of the citizens had set up tables along the road, although not all the vendors we saw on the way down to the museum had stayed outside due to the heavy rain. Of course Boris found something unique. He got a hat made of seal skin and fur. He came walking back to me wearing it, but it was kind of just sitting on the top of his head. It was actually designed to be pulled down over the ears. The hat was too small for Boris. I told him to see if they had a larger one so he could exchange it, but that hat was actually the only one the vendor had for sale. It was really made for a woman or older child. I modeled the fit for Boris on the tender back to the ship. I think I just got a seal hat.
After our outdoor touring, we were drenched so we went back to the pier and waited for a tender to take us back to the ship. I was hoping we didn’t make a mistake going out in the morning. It would have been the wrong choice if it cleared in the afternoon. Another ship was anchoring at 2 pm and Nanortalik only has a single pier for the tender boats so we knew it was going to be very crowded later in the day and we had wanted to do our touring early. We had taken the first tender we could that morning.
We got back to the ship and immediately went for dry clothes before a late lunch. It ended up raining all day. I took a nap wrapped in my extra plaid blanket I took from the upper deck. The cruise director joked about all the clothes the guests and staff had hung out to dry all over their staterooms.
My photography was limited by the rain and needing to protect my equipment, but I was still able to get some pictures and attempt to capture the feel of this southernmost city in Greenland. In spite of the rain, I had no regrets about heading out and setting foot in Greenland. It was still a great day.
We are headed to Greenland and have a sea day between the islands, one of several on this itinerary. Boris and I love sea days. It gives us a chance to rest after several days of touring, explore the ship, and take advantage of the on-board entertainment. I will admit to reading a fair share of books and napping on these days as well. This trip will be a little different because I often spend sea days by the pool reading or listening to music. It currently is a little chilly for that, although some guests just snuggled up with the plaid blankets the cruise line provides up on deck. I snagged one of the blankets to use while sitting on my balcony.
On these extended voyages, some cruise lines, like Celebrity, have guest speakers who give lectures that put what you are seeing in context or speak on topics of general interest. They are usually featured on itineraries with multiple sea days. Our guest speakers were Dale Erhart, a former Canadian jet fighter pilot and instructor (think Top Gun) and Brent Nixon, a marine biologist. We went to both lectures on the first day they spoke.
Although it appears Mr. Erhart does a lot of speaking on cruise ships, I was underwhelmed with his presentation and it appeared he was having to stretch to come up with enough material to lecture over six sea days. Mr. Nixon was the opposite. He was obviously a seasoned performer with a multimedia presentation. He knew exactly where to stand so he didn’t block the screen. He spoke mostly on the wildlife in Iceland and Greenland, from whales to bears, but his first presentation was on the northern lights.
He told us that we are currently in a cycle that will peak next year so it is a great time to try to see the lights. You need a clear night and darkness. He told us to step outside on our balcony around 10 pm (when it gets dark here at this time of year) and if you could see stars the conditions were right. He told us to turn off all the lights inside the cabin and on the balcony porch. Best viewing is between 11 pm and 4 am. I toughed it out until 12:45 am, but couldn’t stay awake any longer. The northern light were visible that night at 1:30 am. A man sitting one table over from us in the dining room got pictures. Mr. Nixon recommended the following website for information on the northern lights: www.gi.alaska.edu.
The other thing happening onboard was that we were going to begin slowly gaining back the time we lost due to the time difference. It will usually be in 1-hour increments, but there will be two, half-hour changes to accommodate the way the province of Newfoundland, Canada interprets the time zones. I love getting an extra hour of sleep!
For our first sighting in Greenland, we won’t actually be stepping off the boat. We will be touring through Prins Christian Sund. (Yes, that is how you spell it.) Gaining that extra hour, I easily had time to get to the dining room when it opened for a sit-down, served breakfast and afterwards went up to the Sky Lounge to enjoy the view while reading and staying out of the room so our cabin steward could clean. We had thick fog this morning. I got a spot right at the front windows and quickly realized this would be a great vantage point for our cruising through the Sound if the fog cleared. We were not scheduled to reach the mouth of the Sound until 4 pm. Visions of our view of the Panama Canal crossing aboard the Azamara Onward swam in my head.
I texted Boris and told him he had to help me save these seats. When he finally came up, I took a short break and went down to the cabin and got my computer, chargers, camera, an extra camera battery, airpods, and a carrying tote. I already had my ipad and phone with me. I was ready to camp out and camp out I did. The captain was going to open the heliport in the front of the ship if the conditions were good, but I wasn’t sure how cold it would be. Boris came and went. I only took breaks for the the bathroom and to go get myself some lunch. By 2 pm, Boris realized he better stay put. I told him to be prepared; depending on the timing, I might not be go down to dinner that night.
About 3:00 pm the rescheduled entertainment show in the main theater got out and people started to realize the value of my spot. The room was filling up. People asked if I got there at 2:30 pm to get this seat. I wanted to laugh. “I have been here since 8:30 am.” I think people thought I was crazy until I was able to sit down for the entire viewing and take pictures with my zoom lens. I hadn’t missed anything I really wanted to do during the day anyway. The temperature inside was perfect and the Sound was the highlight of the cruise. What a hidden gem. Words cannot describe how glorious it was. Boris had insisted that Greenland be included in the itinerary and boy was he right!
“Named for King Christian VIII of Denmark, this dramatic fjord separates the southernmost islands from the rest of South Greenland, a land of jagged mountains and green pastures where sheep farms border icy fjords and Norse history intersects with modern communities. Prins Christian Sund presents beautiful scenery for cruising, with mountains reaching 4,000 feet, glaciers inching toward the sea, and tidal currents the limit the formation of ice.” Celebrity Today from Celebrity Cruises.
Other than the small weather station we saw when we entered the Sound, we never saw another building throughout our journey. Prince Christian Sound (English spelling) is 60 miles long and connects the Labrador Sea with the Irminger Sea.. It is actually rather narrow at some points, onl 1,500 feet wide. At some points, the steep, jagged-topped mountains can reach over 3,900 feet.
Perhaps the only thing more beautiful than the jagged-peaked mountains were the many glaciers we saw throughout the Sound. Some of them run straight into the water and break off forming the icebergs we saw floating around. It is important to note that icebergs are larger under the water than on top of it; in fact only about 10% of the iceberg is above sea level.
We went into a small offshoot fjord and came right up to a large glacier wall. When it is warmer, it is common to see small broken pieces of ice in the water. Today is a foggy, cold day so the water was clear of “debris” and we were able to get closer. Towards the bottom you could see the very blue ice. Later the captain pulled back to where the fjord was wider and did two 360 degree turns of the ship in the fjord so regardless of where you were watching from on the boat you got a fabulous view of the glacier wall and the surrounding fjord.
Boris was ready for dinner after the glacier wall and most of the guests left the Sky Lounge. I stayed for a while just to enjoy the rugged beauty of the landscape. Knowing our assigned table was next to the window, I went down to dinner abandoning the seats that had served me well all day. I usually change clothes and do my hair and makeup for dinner, but i just went straight down, tote bag with equipment in hand.
We continued to travel down the Sound all evening. After dinner, I went out on the balcony of our cabin and got lots of wonderful pictures. It was definitely worth the cabin upgrade to a balcony room just for this spectacular day touring the Sound. The skies were still cloudy, but the fog was almost gone by the time I was watching from the balcony. I just loved the jagged peaks of the mountain tops and the “baby bergs” floating in the water.
Since we were in the Sound, the evening entertainment had been rescheduled to 2 pm in the afternoon and 10 pm that night. The shows are normally at 7 and 9 pm each evening. We left the Sound and were back in the ocean just before dark. I spotted an “ice stage” (my name), a flat sheet of ice on the water, just before we left the Sound.
The light was almost gone when we exited the Sound. Tomorrow I will actually get to set foot on Greenland during our visit to the fishing community of Nanortalik.
Today we are at our final Icelandic port, Akureyri. We have moved from the Northwest region and the Westfjords to the Northeast section of Iceland. With 20,000 residents, Akureyri is the second largest city in Iceland (but keep in mind that 80% of the country’s population lives in Reykjavik and the surrounding region). Akureyri, which sits at the base of the Eyjafjorour Fjord, is often referred to as the Capital of the North. It is one of the country’s most important ports and fishing centers.
Visiting the city itself, be sure to see the government-maintained Lufas Turf Houses, that show how Icelandic citizens used to live. Other city highlights include the Akureyrarkirkja, a Lutheran church with stained glass windows depicting scenes from Icelandic history; the Akureyri Art Museum with its collection of contemporary art from Iceland; and the Arctic Botanical Gardens with specimens from across Iceland.
Going just a little farther afield, you can trek through the Kjarnaskognr Forest; go horseback riding; hike Mount Sulur; visit the Dettifoss Waterfall (the largest waterfall in Iceland and the most powerful in Europe); go whale watching; or visit the Asbyrgi Canyon. I would have loved to go to Grimsey Island, the only part of Iceland that is actually above the Arctic Circle (the rest of the country sits just below it), and home to very few people, but lots of seabirds. Grimsey is a nesting place for puffins.
There are lots of nature-based excursions being offered, but honestly I didn’t seriously consider all of them because this was my opportunity to visit a Icelandic mineral bath, a cultural favorite. Having missed my chance at the Blue Lagoon by not flying into Reykjavik early, I was set on going to the Myvatn Nature Baths today. I got more than I hoped for with today’s excursion, also visiting several of the other major attractions near the capital of the north.
We had an early start to our day and had to meet for our tour at 7:30 am. We got off a little early under sunny skies and as we drove, we could see the fog rolling in as we were heading to our first stop. Regardless of the weather, this stop was a treasure. It wasn’t just a waterfall, it was the famous Godafoss Waterfall. Legend has it that around 1000 AD a local chieftain threw his statutes of pagan gods into these falls when he decided Icelanders should adopt Christianity. Hence the name, Waterfall of the Gods.
The falls are fed by a glacial river and the surrounding riverbank is formed by 8,000 year-old lava. The soil here is very thin, mostly dwarf shrubs, lichen, and moss. The falls are spectacular and the surrounding lava landscape is amazing. There are viewing platforms (and car parks) on both sides of the falls. There were even steps down to explore the river. We received countless warnings to avoid the lava rock, but that didn’t stop everyone.
There is a very popular cafe and souvenir shop near the parking lots for the falls. I admit I did pick up a few Icelandic souvenirs here. They obviously have visitors from all over the world, some with different cultural habits. A sign in the toilets, complete with explanatory drawings, reminded visitors to put tissue paper waste in the toilet and also that it is not appropriate to stand on the toilet seat. Apparently some visitors used to squatties prompted the need for the signs.
On our way to the next stop at the mineral baths, we drove around the Skutustadahreppur region and Lake Myvatn. Mývatn is a volcanic lake, and the area surrounding it is spectacular. There are wonderful hiking opportunities with the mud baths, geothermal pools, bird-watching (particularly for ducks), mountains, craters, and an active volcano. “Mývatn is, in fact, so beautiful that it was used as a site in the Game of Thrones franchise. Filmed in mid-winter, it was used to represent the lands North of the Wall, namely Mance Raider’s Wildling camp.” —Guide to Iceland.is
The Lava fields were incredible. We saw one that ended abruptly just before reaching a church. The Krafla Viti volcano has erupted 29 times since the 9th century. The name translates to “hell”. The most recent violent eruptions were between 1975 and 1984 when there were nine magna eruptions. Although there were no casualties, farmland was rendered useless for years.
In addition to the volcano there are these amazing craters that cause you to wonder if an asteroid hit this region at some point. There are also multiple pseudocraters. “These rootless craters form when piping hot thin-flowing molten lava flows over a wetland or boggy areas. The hot lava boils the water of the wetlands and the steam pressure causes explosions, creating clusters of pseudocraters.” —Guide to Iceland.is. The only places on the earth where pseudocraters are found are Iceland, Hawaii, and the Azore Islands. There is also one on the planet of Mars.
Next it was time for the mineral baths. We arrived at the popular Myvatn Nature Bath and got our orientation. First we had to “fight our way” through the gnats. These pesky bugs are actually the origin of the lake’s name. They do bite but they really don’t hurt; they are more annoying. I saw people with netted face masks and a special spray was recommended. You really do not need it. I got a few bites that lasted a few days but nothing painful. There were no gnats once we got inside the building and the mineral baths.
We were taken to a locker room (women and men are seperated) and given a coin that allowed us to get in and out of our locker as many times as we wanted. You are required to shower (with nice warm water I would add) without clothing-including swimsuits-under Iceland’s health regulations. We were told there would be a monitor, but I didn’t see one. Some of the younger women ignored that rule. It is a large community shower, but after the fact I noticed that there were two private ones. I put extra conditioner in my hair because the minerals will dry out your hair, but I never actually submerged my head. My swimsuit sustained no damage due to the minerals, but you do need to take off any metal jewelry.
There were easy ramps in and out of the water. The warm water felt fantastic. The minerals are said to be good for your skin and my skin sure felt wonderful when I got out. Be sure to move around the pool and determine your level of desired heat. The water is different temperatures in different parts of the pool. There are a few places to sit outside the water and relax and there is also an indoor cafe. We didn’t have that much time there so I stayed in until it was time to shower off again and get dressed.
Boris wasn’t sure about going to the baths, but he ended up really enjoying it. We met a nice Italian couple who were surprised Boris spoke the language and we visited with them for a while while enjoying the mineral baths. They were not on a cruise. I had gotten Boris and I clear underwater holders for our phones so our cell phones could be taken in the water. They were less than US$10 each on Amazon. You can see from the photo, Boris forgot to bring his from the locker room, but I used mine and it worked great; my phone worked perfectly both during and after we were in the milky mineral water. I recommend these inexpensive cases so you are able to take a few pictures while in the baths.
If we had been on our own I might have made a day of it, getting in and out of the baths and enjoying lunch there. All too soon it was time to head back. We passed a power plant where they use the steam from underground to generate energy. The Krafla Power Station was built in 1977. Clean energy from these geothermal power plants powers most of the homes and towns in northern Iceland. That is one way to benefit from an active volcano.
From the waterfalls, to the lava fields, to the craters and pseudocraters, to the mineral baths, to the volcano, to the clean energy lesson, it was quite a day spent in the land of fires and ice.
With temperatures in Texas over 100 degrees Fahrenheit (38 Celsius) most days since May, we were thrilled that our next trip was a cruise leaving out of Reykjavik, Iceland where highs were in the 50s (12 Celsius) most days. Air travel to Reykjavik, the area where 80% of the country’s population lives, was half price on the day of the cruise departure so we did forgo going in early to spend some time in the capital city. Most of the country can be explored on tours based out of Reykjavik, so if you are doing land-based travel to Iceland that is your best starting point. Reykjavik is in the southwest part of Iceland. With three ports in Iceland, we will be able to reach quite a bit of the country Losing extra time in Reykjavik means I now have an excuse to go back to Iceland (especially to see the puffins). My big disappointment was that I did not get to go to Blue Lagoon, the famous mineral bath outside of Reykjavik; I will make up for that with a visit to the Myvatn Nature Baths in a few days.
Iceland is a country of rustic, wild, untamed (choose your adjective) beauty. In contrast to its name, in the summer it is green and lush. It is the location shoot for many modern movies, often set in earlier, futuristic, or mythical times. It was a treat to see the Icelandic coastline from our balcony and the interior peaks on our land tours.
While we usually prefer smaller boats, this itinerary included Greenland (which is icy and white as opposed to what its name suggests), so we are aboard the Celebrity Summit. The Summit is one of Celebrity’s older Millennium class ships. It launched in 2001 and was renovated in 2019. It has a passenger capacity of 2,218 and is completely full for this unique sailing. We will have to tender in for a few of the smaller ports.
This first morning after embarkation, our port of call is Isafjordur on the northwest coast of Iceland. The town’s name translates literally as fjord of ices. The port has a dramatic landscape. I noticed a big dip in the rock formation as we sailed in and took a picture from our balcony. I later learned this is referred to as The Troll’s Seat. Although Isafjordur is the largest town in the Westfjords peninsula, those going ashore without a excursion didn’t find much to do. The settlement started as a trading post in the 16th century. The community grew in the 19th century as a result of salt fish production which is still a major industry for the town.
We had to tender in at Isafjordur. This port is all about nature and breathtaking landscapes. It is a great jumping off point for a wide variety of outdoor activities, particularly hiking. The whale watching and horseback excursions were sold out and we ended up choosing a visit to the nearby community of Sudavik to get a better feel for this region. To reach Sudavik we traveled by a coach along the road bordering the fjord and then back inland along side the next fjord. In route, we passed through Iceland’s oldest and shortest tunnel cut through the rock.
Sudavik was the site of a major avalanche in 1995. 14 people were killed and many buildings were destroyed. Although we saw examples of manmade avalanche walls in the area, the decision was made to move the town rather than risk a future drop off overwhelming a new avalanche wall. Only a few houses survived the disaster: these homes are currently only open in the summer months as guesthouses. Fifty-one new homes were constructed in the new town (which is just next to the old town) and eight homes were moved to the new settlement. A formal avalanche memorial as well as informal one created from whale bones sits next to a very popular children’s park in the original Sudavik. The old town in maintained for tourists.
We also had the opportunity to visit the Stolen Church which is often locked to visitors. The “Súðavíkurkirkja church…was moved to Súðavík from Hesteyri in Hornstrandir. The church was originally built in 1899, a present from the Norwegian Brödrene Bull to the inhabitants of Hesteyri…When that area became deserted the church was moved across Djúpið to Súðavík and was consecrated here in 1963.” Regina Hronn for FunIceland.
The church was simple, but beautiful inside and featured the lovely wood imported from Norway. One of the local residents was inside in original costume. The beautiful silver filigree clasps were fashioned by her grandmother. She sang three of the most popular local songs in the native tongue. The singer had a lovely voice. She said that moving the church to Sudavik is still considered controversial. Locally, it is known as the stolen church.
From the church we drove 9 km (5.6 miles) south to the end of the fjord to see the beautiful water flow to a trickle only to have the fjord fed again by the distant waterfall. It was a dramatic site with the high peak, the shallow water on the rock and the distant ice peak and waterfalls. In fact, from the viewing point near the carpark, you could see waterfalls in two directions.
Boris and Natasha at the gorge leading to the Valagil Waterfall just south of Sudavik, Iceland
From the parking lot you can take a 2 km (1 and quarter mile) hike in to the reach the Valagil Waterfall. Unfortunately, we didn’t have enough time at this stop to make the trek. From our vantage point we could look south and west and see waterfalls. To the north, the landscape was snow-capped jagged peaks. For something requiring more of a hike, the most dramatic waterfall in the Westfjords is the Dynjandi Waterfall, also known as Fjallfoss.
Leaving Valagil behind, we drove back to Sudavik to visit the Arctic Fox Centre. The facility features an indoor museum, gift shop, and a cafe with outdoor seating in good weather. It is a nonprofit research facility. The Centre is housed in a charming blue house that was built in the 1890s and sits in New Sudavik on what was formerly farm land. When we first arrived we enjoyed coffee, tea, and rhubarb cake on the outdoor patio. Afterwards we could tour the inside exhibits and visit the outdoor enclosure.
The Arctic Fox is the only territorial mammal native to Iceland. They are found across the country, often terrorizing the sheep population. For the most part they are frightened of humans. We saw two in the research center’s enclosure. One is two years old and the other less than a year old. The fur on the lighter colored fox will be white during the winter months when he has a ticker coat. The dark furred one will not be white and this variety of arctic fox is most often seen near the water.
There were not any blockbuster attractions in Sudavik or Isafjordur, Iceland but these charming fishing villages offer some unique delights and breathtaking scenery. I enjoyed the Westfjords of Iceland.
Returning back to the harbor at Isafjordur, from the bus window I got a picture of an airport runway that has to be one of the shortest I have ever seen. Our guide told us that about half the flights scheduled to land or take off here are cancelled due to high winds or other weather conditions. We also had a nice look at our ship at anchor with the birds in flight crossing the harbor.
Today we are visiting the Chacchoben Mayan Ruins accessable from the Costa Maya Cruise port. Boris likes to call this a “made up cruise port” set up as the water access point for cruise ships to reach several Mayan ruins sites in Mexico. I wrote more extensively about this port in a previous post a few months ago.
Once again, there are a lot of passengers headed out on excursions today. We are going to the Mayan ruins at Chacchoben. Not a mini van today, we are in a full-size bus. The ruins are just under an hour away from the cruise port.
Locals still used the site in the 1960s when archeologists first visited the area. It was officially reported to the Mexican government in 1972. The ruins at Chacchoben were not opened to the public until 2002. Three pyramids and several site walls and steps have been uncovered and are open for visitors following a circular path. The number of uncovered ruins at this site was the biggest surprise for me. We first stopped at Plaza B and temple #24, what I had assumed would be the highlight of the tour, I wondered why we were there first and why a two-hour visit was needed. Leaving temple 24 behind, I realized there was so much more to see.
Chacchoben means place of the red corn in Yucatec Maya. There is a village of the same name nearby. When you enter the archeological site, there is a gift shop, restrooms, and a cafe. The tour groups leave from this location at staggered times. It was exceptionally hot. I recommend wearing cool, comfortable clothing; good walking shoes; a hat; and sunscreen during your visit. The accessisbility is good; there was only one stop where I found the climb a bit difficult. Most of the ruins are yet uncovered, but excavations continue in areas closed to the public.
At the base of Temple 24 at the Chacchoben Mayan Archaeological Site, the Yucatan, Mexico
Our first stop was Plaza B and temple 24, a step pyramid with interior chambers closed to the public. You can only climb a few of the steps at the base of the pyramid, but there are staircases on all four sides. The area was flooded with tourists, but we waited our turn to capture photos on the steps with just the four of us. The pyramids were built with steps of stone and concrete made from limestone, clay, stones and water.
Following the circular path, our guide took us by other ruins that you could climb on and see where the inner rooms would have been. We came next to the Grand Plaza and the area where dwellings and palace would originally been located. I hope someday they have a model that shows what the area would have looked like at the civilization’s peak.
Continuing our journey, we came to the grand staircase, the primary way up to the grande dame of the archeological site, the Gran Basamento plaza and Temple 1. This primary temple is 42 feet tall. The grand staircase is the best way to get the knockout view when the temple comes into focus and rises (as one blogger put it) “high over the jungle canopy.” Justin + Lauren Adventure & Kind Travel. Most of the participants went this way; a few of us choose the alternative pathway with fewer steps with a side wall to hold on to. Given the heat, my two foot surgeries, and a fall down the stairs in the not so distance past, I chose option two. It was still a little difficult and there was not really much to hold on to, but the climb was worth it. The site is spectacular.
Following my route, the first thing that comes into view is the Temple of the Vessels, just to the side of the Gran Basamento and Temple One. While the smallest of the three temples at the archeological site, for some reason I found it the most attractive. Maybe because it felt more approachable. The items used in the ceremonies held on the Gran Basamento would have been stored here. The thatched roof in the back is not original. It was added to preserve some surviving painting.
There were so many people there the day of our visit that it was impossible to get a clear picture of the Gran Basamento and Temple 1. However, the people served to show the grand scale of the pyramid and how visitors can actually experience the Gran Basamento. We were given free time in the area and some people used it to photograph the monkeys that live near the pyramid.
Retuning to the ship, we did a little shopping at the mall at the port and then got back on board. Once again rather than eat in the heat and with the crowds in port, we tried one of the onboard speciality restaurants at a time when they were not crowded. Today we went to Johnny Rockets. It looks like they moved it to the opposite side of the Boardwalk (although I could be wrong about this) and I did notice the Build-a-Bear is no longer there. I went to Johnny Rockets on our last time on the Allure and as before, the food and shakes were good. We may have gone a bit overboard with the ordering, but it was all included in the specialty restaurant fee. The shakes are extra, but are discounted for us as Diamond members.
Our last port of call is a longtime favorite of mine, Cozumel, Mexico. However I like Cozumel as a dive location which is how it first got discovered by frequent travelers. We didn’t do an excursion. Besides the fabulous drift diving, there aren’t a lot of unique excursion opportunities. Cozumel is an island so options are limited. It is a short 45-minute ferry ride from Cancun. I have written about Cozumel many times, including just two months ago.
We walked around and did some shopping. We returned again to Pancho’s Backyard and this time they asked how often I have been there. (It is probably at least 30 times). They brought out the frequent visitor sign-which I hadn’t see before-so I could grab a photo with my people. We had excellent food (order the superb guacamole), drinks (a fishbowl margarita), and xylophone music in a covered outdoor setting that stays relatively cool even at the height of summer.
We were docked at the far cruise terminal so we taxied to the other far end of town to begin our day. Our plan was to walk all the way back, but we only got about half way when the heat got to me. I was ready for the air conditioning on board the ship. Clyde and Bonnie stayed out to do a little more shopping and got a few things.
We got lucky and were able to get seats in the Comedy Show this evening, but it came at the price of a long wait in the standby line and missing our other production show. We later learned the production show got cancelled due to technical problems. It was also canceled the next night so we never saw it. We enjoyed the comedy show, although one of the two comics was very sexist.
The last full day of the cruise was a sea day which meant I was out at the pool early and eventually everyone joined me. Boris wanted Clyde to help model Mexican wrestler masks at the pool; Clyde wisely declined. It was hot in the afternoon, so we opted to go inside to pack, nap, see a parade, and make one more stop at the Diamond Club. In the evening we tried out our last specialty restaurant, Giovanni’s Table. It was just ok and we would have been just as happy in the dining room which is included.
Overall we had a great time and loved traveling with Bonnie and Clyde. We hope they will be up for a repeat adventure with Boris and Natasha. Until then….
We are stopping at our first port on our seven-day cruise aboard Royal Caribbean’s Allure of the Seas out of Galveston, Texas. We stopped here in February on the back leg of our Panama Canal cruise on the Azamara Onward.I shared some background on Honduras then. This time we are actually getting off the ship to enjoy an excursion into the rainforest and see a little bit of the island. We chose this particular excursion because it combined cute animals, nature, and a beach stop at the end.
One of the reasons we chose to stay on the ship on our last visit is that we would have had to take a tender into the port. It was particularly windy that day which makes it a rough ride in a small tender boat. Today the water is smooth and Royal Caribbean has its on dock so we could just walk off the ship. With so many passengers on the mega ships (6,000+ passengers) you have to be organized and the excursion departures have been well done on both our sailings on the Allure. The key is to keep your party all together when in the waiting areas so you end up in the same tour group.
The mini bus ride to the reserve didn’t offer a lot of leg room, but the bus was air conditioned. There is only a two-lane road leaving the port and it was extremely crowded, but traffic cleared after that. There wasn’t a lot to see in the port if you weren’t taking an excursion.
When we arrived at the reserve, we were told to store most of our things in lockers. Since there is a beach stop at the end we had lots of extra things with us. The moneys like to pull things out of our pocket or bag so we were encouraged to take along as little as possible for the tour portion of the excursion.
It was extraordinarily hot, so although I wasn’t that interested in the inside exhibits, I welcomed the air conditioning. There was one building with the preserved animal collection and another with island history, lore, and pirate memorabilia. The next stop was the Iguana Nest with some truly fascinating lizards in residence.
Then it was time to cross the wooden bridge suspended over the water. You could avoid it by taking a different pathway. However that route was called the “chicken walk” which I think discouraged people from taking it. We all did the bridge, but Bonnie who is afraid of heights had a difficult time with it. Don’t hesitate to take the chicken walk if you are unsteady or have a fear of heights.
Once we were across the bridge, it was time for the much anticipated close encounters with the animal residents. We first saw the beautiful macaws with their striking color. There were quite a few. Some were in cages, others in the trees, and a select few were there to take pictures with us. We also met two of the macaw trainers. Each family got a photo. The birds particularly liked Bonnie and got right up on her head.
Boris, Natasha, Clyde, and Bonnie brave the birds in Roatan, Honduras
The trip highlight was next. When the four of us reviewed the excursion options for Roatan together, we all wanted a rainforest activity. The beach portion of this one was also attractive, but what sealed the deal was the monkeys. All of us thought that part would be fun. When we walked through the rainforest to their habitat, before we even got to the visitation area, one of the monkeys climbed aboard Boris’ shoulder. It is not unusual for animals to gravitate to him.
The monkeys would climb all over you, loved to dig in your hair and through your pockets, and balanced by wrapping their tails around your neck. It was so much fun to see them hop from one person to another. In the end, the monkeys hopped back on Boris before we took the trail back to our lockers.
Back at the lockers we took the opportunity to enjoy a cold drink at the bar and put swimsuits on in the changing rooms. We only had 45 minutes. The beach was a real bust. There was not a sufficient sandy area to just enjoy sitting and there was plant growth on the stagnant water. I opted for the pool; Boris got a short massage on the beach.
After our ride back to the ship, we walked through the small marketplace at the pier but didn’t find anything too interesting. We had planned to eat ashore, but decided to try one of the ship’s specially restaurants instead. Sabor offered good Mexican food with great margaritas and we could use our free drink credits here. It was an added expense, but it was a fun change from the other ship restaurants.
Tonight is the ice show. Some segments were particularly good and fun; others not so much. So I would say good but spotty. I do recommend going though. It is a unique opportunity and it is impressive what they can do on such a small patch of ice. Its a little cooler than some of the other venues so dress accordingly. Passengers have a chance to get on the ice for free skates during the day and you can even take skating lessons. Ice rinks are found on many of the Royal Caribbean ships, even beyond the Oasis class.
Royal Caribbean recently released the last new ship in its Oasis Class of Mega Ships. Next up is the even more updated Icon of the Seas. With the larger number of ships now in the Oasis class one of the older installments, the Allure of the Seas, is (as of February 2023) now departing out of Galveston, Texas. I have been lucky to take early trips on the new Galveston installments having taken the Liberty of the Seas’ maiden voyage to reach Galveston (coming from New Jersey) and now taking one of the early departures of the Allure out of Galveston.
The Galveston departures are popular, although not available year-round. As a seasonal cruise port, you are never going to get a brand-new ship with this Texas island departure point. In fact, the sailings available here are going to be on ships that have been in rotation quite a while. According to the ship’s captain, the Allure is the Oasis class ship that is closest to the original design. Nostalgic maybe, but not really a selling point. We sailed on the Allure before and we did notice a few differences, not always for the better. The ship was renovated in 2015.
Boris and I are taking a cruise out of Galveston on the Allure revisiting ports we visited just a few months ago on our Panama Canal cruise. Why? This is a special trip because of who we are traveling with. Boris’ sister has three sons and the third of these nephews is getting married in the fall. We have hosted parties for all of them, but we are doing something different for this couple. Clyde has just gotten into a wonderful master’s program and won’t be able to honeymoon directly after the wedding. They also have lots of parties already planned. So instead of a party, the four of us are going to travel together. Hopefully they will still like us after this weeklong cruise.
Clyde went on one cruise as a child and Bonnie has never been on one, so it will be fun for us to travel with some novices and show them the ropes. There is also a generation difference, but cruises are great for multi-generational travel.
Clyde and I had luggage duty while Boris dropped off the car at the Royal Caribbean terminal in Galveston.
Living in Houston, we just have an hour’s drive down to Galveston. Boris dropped us off and then parked in a lot close to the new Royal Caribbean Terminal and walked back. There are also remote lots that offer shuttles to the terminal. While Boris parked at an off-site lot, there is also parking on site at the new Royal Caribbean terminal. In spite of the large number of passengers, it was a good set up for boarding. It is faster if you have your bags pre-tagged. We just printed the luggage tags off the Royal website and I bought inexpensive plastic sleeves on Amazon that you put the folded paper tags in. Worked like a charm. You always need to do your prep work-check in days before the cruise and complete your medical acknowledgement within 24 hours of departure. Most importantly, you need to download the app on your phone and play around with it so you are familiar with the information and where to find the boarding documents. Do not forget to take your passport.
On these mega ships, it is all about the on-board entertainment. There is a diving show, a full scale/length Broadway musical, an ice-skating show, comedians, and production shows that you can make reservations for prior to sailing. Reservations are the best way to ensure a seat and not have to wait in a long standby line. Our first night we were scheduled to see Mama Mia. There were technical problems right at the opening and after a 30-minute delay and no success at resolving the sound issues, they called it. Unfortunately, this wreaked havoc on our schedule the rest of the week as they put the replacement show on the night we had reservations for the comedians. We saw Mama Mia the third night, but had to go standby for the comedians on another evening. On our first standby attempt, we didn’t get in to the comedy show after waiting in the standby line; the night we did get in we had to miss the production show and waited 45 minutes in line to get seats. I do recommend making reservations, just be prepared to be flexible.
Boris and I have always enjoyed the advantages of brand loyalty. We did check out quite a few different cruise lines when we started cruising decades ago, but settled on favorites where we could build credits and enjoy the perks of being returning customers. On Royal we are at the Diamond level and get to enjoy a private lounge. The last time on this ship, the Lounge overlooked the main promenade and was a great place to watch the parades. It is now at a higher, quieter level overlooking the aqua theater and the back of the ship. It also offers a great view of the zip line. On our previous trip, entrance into the lounge came with free appetizers and drinks. The appetizers are still there, but instead of free drinks in the lounge, you get four free drinks each day (up to a $14 value each) from any venue. For us this worked out better, but there was less incentive to go to the Diamond Lounge Bar.
Clyde and Bonnie loved the lounge and the host had no problem letting them in although they are new Royal cruisers since they were traveling with us. By the end of the week, they even went without us. The lounge was never full. Likely, they would not have been able to get in if it was generally full. Boris and I could use our room key to get in 24/7. The host is there during more limited hours but was a very helpful concierge for dining reservations and even tech issues with logging onto the internet.
During the day we checked out the various ship venues including the promenade (especially the pizza) where there is a variety of live entertainment including parades, Central Park, and the adult-only pool and deck. None of us were up for the surfing, but it was available. In the evenings we checked out a variety of the different bars and the live entertainment. My favorite evening event was the Silent Disco where you wear headphones and can choose the music among various tracks. The “watchers” get quite a show as people dance to music they can’t hear. The dance moves can be rather entertaining. During our week-long cruise, they offered it once on formal night out on the boardwalk, but it got a little hot in our evening clothes. Another night it was offered inside in the skating arena. I got some excellent video of Boris.
Our second night aboard was the water show with platform (some quite high) and springboard divers and acrobats in a water setting. Oceanaira was quite the show, although maybe a little overproduced. The aqua theater and the shows there are unique to the Oasis class ships.
We had originally planned to do a weekend in the Texas Hill Country, but then pivoted to the cruise. Booking our cruise later did mean we didn’t get our choice of time for dining. We ended up in the flexible dining. Theoretically the flexible dining is great because you are not tied to a schedule, but on our sailing the lines were really long. I don’t know how people made their show reservations using this method. To avoid the problem, on the first day of the cruise Boris made us reservations at the walk-up venue for each night which worked out really well. There is a separate dining room for diners on the flexible schedule. It was carved out of the original three-story dining room that was on the ship when it first launched. By the time the rest of the passengers figured out that you could make reservations at this venue, it was difficult to get your desired time. We had no issues, were seated quickly, and they always got us out in time when we let them know what time our show was.
We are closing out our Panama Canal full transit cruise with several stops in Central America. Because we have been to these ports before, we didn’t plan any excursions. For the two days we were tendering to shore, we chose just to stay on the cruise ship.
There are a few reasons why the cruise line has to use the small tender (lifesaving) boats. There are some destinations where they don’t have large docks constructed, other ports where it is not deep enough for a cruise ship to dock, and some harbors have coral reefs that don’t allow for the navigation of large ships.
After leaving Costa Rica, our next port was Roatan, Honduras. Our approach to this Honduran island was a little rough. The seas have definitely been more turbulent since we reached the Atlantic side. The wind was at 30-40 knots all day and the tender ride in was not comfortable. Boris decided to do trivia and enjoy nap time. I headed out to the pool. Even though the boat itself was relatively stationary (thanks to the constant work of the crew), the wind across the deck made the time outside comfortable rather than oppressively hot.
Our next port was Belize. As with Roatan, I can highly recommend Belize for scuba diving. The country’s underwater topography is somewhat unique and it is a special Caribbean diving location. However, the same reason that makes Belize an easy-access diving location, means it doesn’t accommodate the docking of cruise ships. In an effort to protect the coral reefs near the harbor, our ship, and even our own tender boats, did not go in. Rides in were on local tenders. We also had to anchor far enough out that the rides in and out again were 20-25 minutes each way. We opted out again and I headed back to the pool. My tan was progressing nicely.
The country also considers the barrier reef its own. Claiming the Belize Barrier Reef as the second largest in the world. The famous Blue Hole offers and an outstanding and unique diving opportunity complete with the sharks the dive masters “recruit” with bloody chum. I had a fantastic dive there. The region does experience a high level of violent crime (particularly around Belize City) resulting in both the United States Department of State and the Canadian government issuing travel warnings for Belize.
Boris and I had a wonderful dinner with Food & Beverage Manager Iwan Pennings from the Netherlands and Cruise Sales Manager and Loyalty Host Jennifer Vandewiele from Belgium.
Even staying on the ship, our days were not without special events. Boris and I got invited to join two of the ship’s officers at the Captain’s table. It was a nice opportunity to meet some fellow guests that we hadn’t come in contact with before and enjoy conversation with the head of the ship’s food and beverage department and the guest relations and future cruise manager. I suspect the champagne we started with was chosen by our favorite sommelier who was serving the captain’s table that night because Boris and I had selected it a few times during the course of the trip. Other nights they served a less exciting variety at that table.
We stopped at two ports in Mexico. The first was Costa Maya. This is actually a “made-up” port (Boris’ term). The area was largely undeveloped until a cruise port was built to provide access to the Mayan ruins at Chacchoben and Kohunlich which are less excavated sites than the more popular and better known ruins at Tulum and Chichen Itza. Costa Maya is essentially a pick up point for cruise excursions with a large shopping mall. The mall boasts pools, swim-up bars, and plenty of shopping. If you don’t want to venture out on an excursion, we can always take a picture at the mall with one of the many Mayan pyramid facades behind you.
Nothing new for us here. Living in Texas, we have easy access to Mexico and have been many times. However in recent years, we have limited our travel to Mexico due to the high incidence of violent crime mostly related to drug cartel activity. We did decide to get off the boat and check out the shopping center. It was well done and some of the store owners were willing to bargain since it was a quiet day in port. One of the shop owners told us the smaller ships tend to visit on different days than the large ships, the travelers on the smaller ships prefering to avoid crowds.
Overall, prices were high. Gone are the days of the great deals, especially in the cruise ports. I was hoping to get a few inexpensive coverups and didn’t have much luck. We saw the same things in all the Central American ports, often with the labels cut out. I suspect they were removing the “Made in China” tags. It was fun just get out and walk around in the fresh air. The water and sand were absolutely gorgeous. I would have loved a beach day away from the port, but Boris with his fair skin avoids the beach.
Costa Maya night was our on-board White Night Party. This Azamara staple is a deck party (levels 9 and 10) where all guests are invited to dinner and entertainment under the stars and encouraged to wear white. I was lucky that when we were packing Boris reminded me about White Night. There was a huge barbeque and buffet spread in The Patio area and the tables were outside on two decks. We were fortunate; on the previous two sailings there had been rain on White Night. The staff make their appearance and parade at this event and it is the opportunity for the traditional cruise napkin waving. I did spot our room steward Jane in the parade.
We were invited to join a family from Montana and enjoyed interesting conversation during dinner. They had moved to Montana for a warmer climate. Being from the southern United States, I always viewed Montana as a sparsely populated state with cattle ranches, big open spaces, clear skies, and very cold winters. I couldn’t comprehend the concept of moving there for warmer weather until they told us that they moved to Montana from Alaska. Ok, now I get it.
After dinner, there were wonderful performances and activities hosted by the entertainment team, many of whom have fabulous voices. There were lots of guests who enjoyed dancing on this cruise and I even got Boris to join me on the floor for a few dances at the end of the evening. It was a gorgeous night on deck and we had a great time.
Our final port before reaching Miami was on Cozumel. Like Roatan, Cozumel is an island. This time we are off the coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. I have been here countless times, mostly for scuba diving. There is excellent drift (in current) diving and some of my favorite pass-throughs (breaks in the coral reef where you can swim through while surrounded by coral). There is nothing like the downtown plaza in San Miguel at night when the cruise ships are gone and all the locals are out. It has a completely different flavor. I usually dive during the day, avoiding the town center and the cruise ports, and then venture into the city in the evening. That is way I recommend visiting Cozumel.
The island of Cozumel, Mexico, a short ferry ride from Cancun on the Mexican mainland.
However, most people will visit Cozumel by cruise ship. It is one of the most popular ports in the Caribbean. We are at the downtown cruise port, a short hike from the center of the island’s only town, San Miguel. The secondary terminal used by the really large ships is even farther, a good 20-30 minutes from the Plaza del Sol. The original docks, right at the plaza, are only used by the ferries.
The cruise ship terminals at Cozumel. In the distance (top of the photo), you see the city of San Miguel where Boris and I walked to. The smaller boat near the top of the photo is one of the ferries that dock directly across from the city’s main square, Plaza Del Sol.
It has been quite a while since I have been at this cruise terminal. Unless you are on an excursion, you are no longer permitted to walk out at ground level, but rather you have to go up and cross the street by the sky bridge and then walk to the other end of the shopping mall across the street before you can even get to the street level. The signage is poor and it is easy to make a wrong turn on your way out. You won’t get lost, but it may increase your step count.
The main street in San Miguel, Cozumel is lined with shops, bar, pharmacies, and restaurants geared to the tourists. In the center of the photo is the clock tower on Plaza del Sol.
Boris and I wanted to go to the traditional market at the plaza and then have a Mexican lunch at one of two of the places I know in town. The main street that runs along the water front is simply a series of tourist shops, pharmacies, bars, and restaurants. When we made it to the main square, Plaza del Sol, I was sorry to see that the center bandstand/gazebo was no longer there. I wasn’t sure if this traditional town square feature was lost in a hurricane or the desire for more open space.
The shops in the flea market/mercado just off the Plaza del Solo are now enclosed, air conditioned, and not surprisingly more expensive.
We went to the market and I was shocked to see the stalls were now enclosed and air conditioned. Most were closed because it was Sunday morning. The street behind the mercado, once just an afterthought for tourists and a great place to get a fabulous cheap dinner, was now more developed and had a bit more of the open-air shop feel. I could see that my hope for some cheap souvenirs was in vain. Neither of us bought anything. We decided to continue our walk along the waterfront to the end of the commercial buildings toward one of my favorite shops and restaurants. Fingers crossed they were still there post COVID.
I was happy to find Los Cinco Soles (The Five Suns) still thriving. They also had an airport location, although I am not sure if it is still there. They have wonderful handicrafts, Mexican vanilla, silver jewelry, and cool comfortable clothing. I have gotten some wonderful and very colorful paper mache fruits and vegetables there that still decorate my kitchen. Today I purchased some jewelry pieces and some beautiful tops (and scored a “free” bottle of vanilla). Their prices are higher than most of the tourist stalls, but the offerings are authentic and of higher quality.
After our shopping it was time for Sunday brunch at Pancho’s Backyard, just behind the store. Pancho’s has a lovely covered porch setting. Winter meant it wasn’t too hot to eat at this entirely outdoor restaurant. There were not many tourists here. The restaurant was mostly full of Mexican families enjoying a fabulous meal and the live xylophone music (compliments of what appeared to be a father/son duo). I can highly recommend their guacamole, maybe the best I have ever eaten. I enjoyed my fresh strawberry margarita served in a fishbowl glass while Boris had a Mexican beer. After our guacamole appetizer, we both had wonderful entrees. The beef steak was fabulous.
Another nice place to eat, although off the main road, is Casa Mission Restaurant. This was originally a colonial Spanish home with lovely gardens. You eat on the covered patios among the foliage and parrots. I haven’t been in several years, but it looks like the restaurant is still open based on my website research. I have always had a wonderful meal there and love the setting. There are multiple restaurants with the word mission in their name in Cozumel, so be selective.
After our fortifying lunch, we walked back to the ship noting that the walk seemed a lot shorter headed this direction. I think we had just gotten a better perspective on the distance (or I was relaxed due to the tequila). There was a lot more activity now that it was Sunday afternoon. The bars were certainly more populated.
“One of the highlights of Chichen Itza is El Castillo, a mathematically and scientifically designed step pyramid that is the best manifestation of the Mayan’s understanding of astronomy. There are 365 steps (one for each day of the year), and twice a year on the spring and autumn equinoxes, a shadow appears on the pyramid that takes the shape of a serpent – a tribute to the most important Mayan god, Kukulcan, a feathered serpent.” https://www.planetware.com/mexico/best-mayan-ruins-in-mexico-mex-1-39.h
Aerial view of the Temple of the Warriors, Chichen Itza, Mexico
On this cruise, the excursion to Chichen Itza was offered from Cozumel which added 1.5-2 hours to the trip to the accommodate the ferry to and from the mainland from the island of Cozumel and the transfer to and from the buses. The full excursion lasted 12 hours, most of that spent in travel. Our neighbors, Diane and the Professor, went and loved it. We saw them in the dining room that night and in spite of the long day, they wouldn’t have missed it.
Our last day, we packed early so we could enjoy the rest of the day. There was another brunch on board in the dining room. Our special interest lecturer did a presentation on the use of DNA recovered from genealogy web sites and how it is being used to solve old crimes. It was the first time he had done the presentation and I found it very interesting. I also got in some pool time. After dinner and the last production show, we put the last few things in the suitcases before they had to be out in the hallway by 11 pm.
We docked in Miami and took a direct flight back to Houston. Boris had to go on to West Texas for a hearing so I am navigating getting home with most of the suitcases. It was a fabulous trip., perhaps our longest. It was certainly our longest cruise. I highly recommend travel on Azamara Cruises and full transit through the Panama Canal.
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