Penthouse living in Sin City

Posted on December 30, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Disclaimer.  The next two posts describe what is probably one of the tamest trips you could take to Las Vegas.

The Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas

The Bellagio Fountains in Las Vegas
©Jean Janssen

About 3 weeks before the end of the year I realized I was going to be just under 800 miles short of gold status on United. Usually I piggyback off of Boris, but since his injury sidelined him this year I am trying to get to gold on my own.  Gold versus Silver means access to the Gold Star Alliance lounges in international airports.  On a long layover, these lounges are a blessing.

Arrival in Vegas. Yes, there are slot machines at the airport.

Arrival in Vegas. Yes, there are slot machines at the airport.
©Jean Janssen

Where to go in late December?  First thought was New York to see the amazing holiday decorations.  It is also a terribly expensive time to go.  Last year when Rocky turned 21 we had planned on taking him to Vegas, but the trip had to be cancelled.  What about celebrating 22 in Vegas?  After all, we were in Disney for the actual 22 and as my sister Emma likes to say, Las Vegas is an adult’s Disneyland.

I am not a big LV fan as I don’t gamble (at least in a casino, maybe a little bingo).  There is so much more to do in Vegas though-big shows, touring the themed hotels, great restaurants, terrific shopping-that I thought we should give it a try.  The Las Vegas Strip is so iconic that the experience should be on every 21 (or 22) year old’s bucket list.  Hopefully traveling with his mom, Rocky can’t get in too much trouble.  (Maybe he can keep me out of trouble too.)

3Jack3 is coming in a few days, so his will be just a quick between-holidays trip.  Rocky and I took a late night flight out of Houston arriving at 10:45 pm (12:45 am in Houston).  Sometimes you get a great view of the Strip when flying in, but not tonight.  We took a cab to our hotel.  The airport is practically on the Strip, but because of traffic you have to wind around and take the back way in.  Cost $30 with the tip.  Our flight was full, but in spite of the set up for a long queue, we got a cab right away.

Lobby Check-in desk at the Bellagio in Las Vegas

Lobby Check-in desk at the Bellagio in Las Vegas
©Jean Janssen

You can often get an amazing hotel deal in Vegas-they will get your money another way.    I did my research on hotels.com and found there were basically two tiers-the double digit bargains and the triple digit options that can move up to 4 or 5 digits if you want a really special hotel or speciality room.  Since we are only spending 2 nights, I decided to splurge on triple digits at a hotel that Rocky has often spoke of due to its movie associations like Dodgeball and Ocean’s 11.  We are staying at the Bellagio.

The Bellagio Conservatory decorated for the holidays.

The Bellagio Conservatory decorated for the holidays.
©Jean Janssen

Cab dropped up off at the side entrance, so we wound through the casino-which is massive-to the front lobby.  I’m not used to the heavy smell of cigarette smoke in public places, but that is part of the “character” of Vegas.  We saw the famous Bellagio fountains through restaurant windows as we made our way through.  The lobby, adjoining conservatory, and shopping corridors were the only parts of the hotel decorated for the holidays and they were full of tourists taking pictures.  I stood in line to register while Rocky stared out the front doors at the fountains.  I told him to take a look and I completed the registration.

After a general search site like hotels.com, I follow up directly with my hotel of choice to see if I can get the same or better deal.  The Bellagio site offered the same price and it is easier to cancel when book directly with the hotel, so that is how I made the reservations for our stay.  I don’t know if it was that, the fact that we were celebrating Rocky’s  22, or our very late arrival, but we were given a COMPLIMENTARY upgrade to a Penthouse Suite.

Just a small part of our complimentary penthouse suite at the Bellagio

Just a small part of our complimentary
penthouse suite at the Bellagio
©Jean Janssen

I didn’t tell Rocky and he was stunned when we walked into the room.  Frankly so was I.  You walked in and immediately to your right is the guest bathroom (one of three) which, as Rocky put it, was big enough to put a bed in.  On the left was the walk in bar with stools and a foot rail on the outside.  This looked into a huge room with a den area, desk area, and a dining area.  The bedroom was off that and two additional bathrooms were off the bedroom.  Each bathroom had its own toilet (woman’s side also had a bidet), a two door mirrored closet, and sink vanity.  The woman’s side also featured a makeup table and huge Jacuzzi tub.  The man’s side had a bachelor’s chest and a steam shower.  There were more toilets than people in our room.

I saved the best for last.  The main room and bedroom also looked out on the Strip and the Famous Bellagio Fountains. The Eiffel Tower (or at least the LV version) is directly across the street.  What a view.  Suddenly we weren’t tired.  We watched the fountain show from our windows-every 15 minutes from 8 pm to midnight, every 30 minutes from 3 pm to 8 pm and noon to 8 pm on weekends and holidays.  From our windows on the 32nd floor, we were amazed at how many of the strip hotels we were able to pick out.  Needless to say, we didn’t go out again.

The Bellagio Fountains as seen from our Penthouse Suite. What a view!!©Jean Janssen

The Bellagio Fountains as seen from our Penthouse Suite. What a view!!
©Jean Janssen

Rocky was afraid to go to sleep in fear that he would wake up and realize he didn’t really have this amazing room. Finally packed it in at 12:45 (2:45 am to my body) dreaming of my next day of Penthouse living.

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a few final words on Tuscany with a wheelchair

Posted on November 5, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Our new Lufthansa air bus, the A380, loads from three ramps in Frankfurt.
©Jean Janssen

We woke up very early on Sunday morning (4 am) to make our flights home.  We were fortunate that the bellmen were not too busy so one of them took us to the terminal with our luggage in the hotel van.  When we arrived, I ran in and found our check in line.  Then I went back out and rolled Boris into the line.  Then I went out and directed the bellman in and was able to deposit our luggage right next to the check in line.  A nice tip was in order for this gentleman.

A McDonald’s in the less than a month old Z terminal in Frankfurt. Definitely not part of the Slow Foods Movement started in Italy in response to the opening of a McDonald’s at the Spanish steps in Rome.
©Jean Janssen

The counter was crazy and I don’t know how they were going to get all the passengers checked in before the flight, especially with agents leaving to go to the gate.  If you haven’t been to foreign airport before you may be unaware that their counters are specific as to airline and flight only for a short time frame and they are not always in the same place.  You really have to watch the monitors to know the proper line.  The woman in front of us was going to Zürich and didn’t realize her problem until she got to the counter and then had to go stand in another line (even though both were Lufthansa flights).

crowds in the new Z terminal in Frankfurt waiting to board.
©Jean Janssen

After the check-in, we had  to wait a while for wheelchair assistance.  After he came, we had to go to another area to check-in his portable wheelchair which will go as baggage all the way to Houston.  They could not get the conveyor belt to run the right way, so we were there for a while.  We arrived at the gate to go directly on the aircraft.

This was a short, smooth flight to Frankfurt with Boris and I in aisle seats across from each other.  We were in row 7 and could easily see business class in rows 1-5.  They were in the same size seats (3 and 3) and were served the same cart breakfast as we were.  Only difference was they were offered periodicals (mostly in German).  Don’t know what the price difference was but certainly not worth it.

 

It was hard to leave the beautiful Tuscan countryside.
©Jean Janssen

We arrived into the A terminal in Frankfurt and went to the new Pier A, sign-posted terminal Z with a Lufthansa assistant.  She was very friendly, but like our previous assistant, this was the first time she was taking someone to the new terminal.  She said there had been lots of complaints because it was opened before the staff had really been trained on everything.  She also told us that it was only 7 gates, but that they could load up to three flights at one gate at a time.  Of course that meant more apron flights.  When I commented that I couldn’t believe they did that much outside boarding in a city with such cold weather she just said there wasn’t space and that she thought another terminal for Lufthansa was already planned.

Pienza, Toscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

We were on first again, Boris was one of ten wheelchair passengers.  He was in my old seat in 51 C on the aisle.  I was in 50 K, a window seat.  As it turns out, the first row on the bottom level has more leg room so I was pleasantly surprised.  I sat next to a young Egyptian couple.  He works in the oil business which was the reason for their travel to Houston.  He has been before, but this was her first visit.  Their hotel was in the Galleria area and she was planning on going shopping; her stated reason for coming on the trip.  When I asked about sightseeing he commented on how you had to have a car to get around Houston (very true), so that probably they wouldn’t see much.

I watched 5 movies to kill the time during this ten and a half hour flight.  They had added a few more movies for November.  A front row seat has its advantages; Boris got the first wheelchair and we were off to use our global entry stamps at immigration and by-pass the line (a bargain at $100 for five years for people who do several international trips a year).  We got down to baggage claim far before the luggage did.  We were met there by a Lufthansa representative who told us that one of our bags had not made the flight.  I was betting on the wheelchair (and was right).  The plane was so large, baggage came down on two belts, one for connecting passengers and one for those terminating travel in Houston.

Etruscan mark in Montepulcino, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Fortunately, Lufthansa had started the bag claim for us and it didn’t take long to complete the paperwork and get in on our way.  The chair will be delivered to our home the next night.  Rocky was waiting for us outside and the wheelchair assistant helped us all the way to the car.  Home to the Houston heat.

I would highly recommend the complimentary wheelchair assistance that is offered by the airlines for anyone that is physically challenged.  While this is a free service, tipping is permitted, deserved, and appreciated.

Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Just thought I would share a few observations for those of you contemplating travel to this area of Italy.  The food is amazing.  Blow the diet and eat the pizza, pasta, and bread.  The beef and veal were also fabulous.  The pizza is so much better in Italy, thin crust and not overloaded with red sauce.  But it is intended as an individual portion, so order your own (one per adult person) and cut it with a knife and fork.  Salads, traditionally, are served after the main meat or fish course.  And don’t forget the wine, which doesn’t have to be expensive to be good.

Italians don’t do fast food.  In fact, they have a whole movement called slow food which celebrates traditional products and the time it takes to prepare a wonderful meal.  The meal is an event and meant to be savored.  Give yourself the time to enjoy it.  They also won’t rush you out, so you will probably have to ask for your check.  It is not “the how many times we can turn over the table in one night” approach we are used to in American restaurants.  You may be the only diners at that table for the evening.

Near the Abbey, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

You will need a car to make your way around Tuscany.  Unless you are well-versed in manual transmissions, request an automatic and reserve it early.  You will also want the most powerful, yet smallest (particularly narrow) vehicle that will still fit your group and luggage.  You will be limited on where you can go and park if you rent something big.  You will need to refresh yourself on how to parallel park before you go.  Gas is sold by the liter, is more expensive, and is not readily available in all areas.

At the Etruscan Museum in Chuisi, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

You don’t have to speak Italian in this part of Italy, in fact many of the menus have English translations.  If it says they have a tourist menu, avoid that.  Learn the few words listed in the guidebook; it will be helpful.  If you want a toilet, ask for a toilet or WC (water closet); don’t ask for the restroom or bathroom which mean very different things.

The summer will be hot and busy.  The Europeans travel in August, so avoid that month due to crowds.  Late May or early June are the best time if you need to travel in the summer.  I suggest the fall or spring.  Some of the roads in Tuscany can be pretty treacherous in the snow and icy winter.  October is perfect, but avoid the crowds we ran into by not including the November 1 holiday (All Saints Day) in your travel plans.

Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

I can go on and on, but if you have a specific question, just send it to me as a comment.  Enjoy Italy.  After traveling to 80+ countries, it is still my favorite.

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All roads lead to Rome

Posted on November 3, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Our bedroom at Galantino, our home in Montefollonico.
The property was much bigger than it appears on film and had lovely touches everywhere.
Mariella Spinelli was a wonderful host and helped us with many things throughout our trip.
We reserved the home through Parker Villas.
©Jean Janssen

We slept well after our repeat dinner at 13 Gobbi.  I had exactly the same things as last time.  The place was completely full and the host and a single waiter served the whole restaurant (2 rooms) efficiently.  Our host was pleased to see us again.  Boris had made a reservation and he thanked us for speaking Italian.  There were Italian, English, and German speakers in the restaurant that night and his language skills were being tested.

While Boris took over the front sitting room in the house with the television on the Italian stations, the kitchen table area was my hangout spot while at Casa Galente or Galantino in Montefollonico. This is where the magic of the blog happended. From my spot, I could look out over the large garden and see the sunsets.
©Jean Janssen

The morning was cloudy and foggy and I went about packing the rest of our things.  (Yea, all the clothes dried.) Mariella arrived just before 10 am and we got the checkout business handled.  We had the heater on about half the time we were here and the heating charge was $100.  This was exactly the price difference from our earlier selected date, so it all came out in the wash.

With the fog, our drive to the Autostrada was not as picturesque as it has been in previous days.  We drove through Tuscany, Umbria, and just after crossing into Lazio exited at Orte in the direction of Virterbo.  Orte is one of those cliff-hanging cities that looks like it is about to fall down the hillside at any minute.  There is also an wonderful aqueduct on the right side of the city as you head south on the A1.  Orte, originally the Etruscan city of Hurta, is an important stop on the Florence-Rome railway.

Inside the Viterbo Cathedral, Lazio, Italy
Jean Janssen

At our exit, I heard the best line of the day.  There was a statute of the Virgin Mary just at the exit ramp.  Boris noticed too and added “Ah, Our Lady of the Autostrada.”  That one I deem to be a classic.

You will notice that we didn’t visit some of the major Tuscan cities; that it not to say you should skip Florence, Siena,  and San Gigmignano.  All are fabulous must-see cities in Tuscany.  We went to all of them on our honeymoon.  We focused on the cities south of Siena and Eastern Tuscany where we had spent little time before.

On the Piazza del Plebiscito, the administrative center of Viterbo since the 13th Century. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Umbria is similar to Tuscany, but a little more rough and rugged.  My impression is that it is less manicured, but just as special to visit.  We loved both Orvieto and Assisi, and the countryside near Todi when we visited.  Lazio is the region of Italy where Rome is located.

We enjoyed a nice highway drive into Viterbo, an ancient papal city. Entering was a bit of a problem with a single car-width gate with no traffic light.  You were  dependent on the outbound traffic to give one inexperienced in Italian driving a break.  Once in, we followed one-way narrow streets through the ancient city touring by car.  We found a spot only to have the proprietor come out and ask us to move.  It was not a no parking zone, but it was easier to move than argue in Italian.  There were people everywhere and the parking availability was nil.  We were about to give up when someone pulled out and we pulled in right next to a pedestrian-only zone near the large Piazza del Plebiscito.

Spotted as I left the Piazza del Plebiscito Via San Larenzo in route to the Papal Palace. Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

I have often heard that shopping was the #1 activity while people are on vacation, and the visitors to Viterbo, 50 km from Rome, were out to prove that.  The stores were far busier than the  historical sites.  After wandering around the Piazza delle Erbe and Piazza Mario Fani while Boris read his guidebook, we returned to the Piazza del Plebiscito which has been the administrative center of the city since the 13th century, and headed south past the Piazza del Gesu and its churches and Piazza della Morte to the Cathedral.

The Viterbo Cathedral and Bell Tower. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The Cathedral and its bell tower dominate the Plaza of San Lorenzo, but it is the Loggia of the Papal Palace which draws your attention.  A wide staircase leads up to the beautiful entwined arches and the fountained patio.  From this hillside location, you have a wonderful view of the city below (and the construction site of a major church renovation).

View from the loggia of the papal residence at Viterbo, Lazio, Italy. Just behind the space of green field with trees is the line of the ancient city walls.
©Jean Janssen

Viterbo’s Cathedral is on the site of an ancient Etruscan city (some of the Etruscan ruins are marked as you enter Piazza San Lorenzo) and a reputed temple dedicated to Hercules.  Viterbo became a papal residence as early as 1145, when Pope Eugene IV deemed it a safer seat for papal authority than Rome.  The Papal Palace was built in 1255-1266.  When Clement IV ended his papacy there, a three year vacancy lead to what is considered to be the first Conclave in the history of the Roman Catholic Church (think white and black smoke).  The Conclave was held here in Viterbo.

The papal residence and loggia as seen from Piazza San Lorenzo in Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Viterbo, Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The medieval section of San Pellegrino is near Plaza San Lorenzo just east of Piazza della Morte.  One could easily spend hours roaming around it.  Boris was exhausted after the climb to the Cathedral, so we opted for lunch at Piazza del Gesu instead.  There were lovely outside tables connected with our restaurant which sat on the Piazza overlooking the fountain and two churches, but the weather was dreary and cold, so like all the other patrons we chose a table inside.  For my last meal in Italy, I ordered a prosciutto and funghi (ham and mushroom) pizza.  Boris had spaghetti carbonara (one of my favorite pasta dishes) and a pizza (and two big-but not super-beers).

Revitalized by lunch and without fear of the speeding cars that come flying across this huge plaza, Boris headed to our car across the Piazza del Plebiscito, Viterbo, Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

After lunch, Boris had had enough and we were losing light so we went back to the car about 3 pm.  In classic Italian style, all the shops were closed tight and suddenly parking spaces were available everywhere.  We determined a new route to take the A12 to the airport and headed southeast to the coast.  Just as we were leaving, I saw the best view of the day looking back up at the loggia to the Cathedral from the bottom of the hill.  Breathtaking, but I was driving and there were cars behind me.  We had no problem exiting the same city gate we came in; this time there was no traffic coming at us.

While the temple and base were later additions, this Baptismal font by Francesco da Ancona is from 1470. In the Viterbo Cathedral. Lazio, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

It was a pretty nice two lane road down to  Civitavecchia, aka the Cruise Port city for Rome.  We saw an ancient aqueduct that stretched for a quarter of a mile, only to turn and see the ruins continue.  For a while we got to drive along the coast and enjoy the beautiful waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, an arm of the Mediterranean, as we drove the A12/E80 to Leonardo Da Vinci Airport (Fiumicino).

The A roads are toll, but don’t all follow the same procedures for payment.  On the A12 heading up to Tuscany, we took a ticket when we got on and paid when we got off.  On the A12, you stop at two toll gates, paying a set price each time.  That is unless you miss your exit and have to go again. (foreshadowing).

The A12 dumps you into a highway which goes south to the airport or north into Rome.  When we got to the airport (our Hilton is inside with walkways directly into the terminals), there was no sign posting for the Hilton.  We drove all around it, asked a police officer and finally went around to try again.  Except, as it turns out, there was no way to turn around.  Boris suggested another exit and we ended up back on the A12 headed away from the airport.  At which point, we drove, got off, paid, got back on, and paid again.  This time he had called the hotel.  Then we wound around the cargo and remote parking areas coming to the Hilton Garden Inn and came in the employee entrance-only they wouldn’t let us in the lot.  So we went around again.  Boris went in and found out that we indeed were staying at the Airport Hilton, not the Hilton Garden Inn.  They gave us a map.

In the Viterbo Cathedral. Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

As it turns out you have to follow the sign posting for rental car return.  (The original plan had been to return the car  after dropping off our luggage.  If you follow the rental car return lane, returns are on your left, the hotel (easily spotted now) is on your right.  We dropped off bags and the bellmen could tell our frustration, so one followed us in the courtesy van to rental car return and brought us back.  It was really difficult at this point because it was already dark and the the signs are small.  (If you are a regular blog follower, you know how I feel about  driving after dark in Italy.  Again, I was not happy.)

When we finally made it to the hotel, Boris just went straight to the room and I finished up the paperwork and took care of our driver and bellman.  At least we are on the floor with the lounge with free drinks and wifi.  I am still not exactly sure how I will get Boris in a wheelchair and all to the luggage to the terminal (probably two trips for me).  But that is tomorrow problem.  So Boris is eating a hamburger from room service (outrageously priced) and I am writing to you all with a sign off from Italy.  Arrividerci.

View of the Cathedral and Bell Tower from the loggia of the Papal Residence Viterbo, Lazio, Italy
©Jean Janssen

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Bagno Vignoni, Castiglione d’Orcia, and the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on November 2, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Piazza dell Sorgenti in Bagno Vignoni, Tuscano Italy.
The main plaza is literally a pool or bath.
©Jean Janssen

Today is our final adventure in Tuscany.  Tomorrow we return to Rome for flights home on Sunday.  We backtracked this morning over our sunset route then turned to see the spa town of Bagno Vignoni.  The Piazza Delle Sorgenti is literally a large bathing area.  It was a favorite of St. Catherine of Siena and there is a lovely modern statue of her at the water and a small chapel dedicated to her.

I found this modern statute of St. Catherine of Siena bathing at the Piazza Delle Sorgenti in Bagno Vigno charming.
©Jean Janssen

The parking is going to be terrible everywhere.  When we passed through San Quirico d’Orcia, the lots were already full.  When we arrived in Bagno Vignoni, only 5 km from San Quirico d’Orcia, we created our own space as the Italians often do.  I did make an attempt at an even farther satellite lot, but it was full of large recreational vehicles that had totally staked the area and appeared to be in it for the long haul.

Since yesterday was a holiday, people have taken today off, the children appear to still be out of school, and they are making a four-day weekend of it.  They have beautiful weather. The sky is perfectly clear; it is very sunny and much warmer.  No coat, hat, or gloves needed today.

This is just what Boris needs, a dog to carry his guidebook and map. Bagno Vignoni, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Bagno Vignoni did have a few shops and I picked up some homemade Christmas decorations.  Boris had a coffee (which gave me bathroom privileges) and we sat outside and enjoyed the sun.  The area between the parking lots and the square were filled with parks and benches and the children were enjoying the swings.

Rather an ironic sign in a historic spa resort, a favorite of St.Catherine of Siena, and Pope Pius II.  The spring-fed pool, known since Roman times, has waters rich in
sulphur, calcium carbonate, and magnesium
good for curing a variety of ailments.
Bano Vignoni, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

You could not swim in the historical bathing area, although it was full of water, but another bathing opportunity was nearby and we saw vendors selling wet suits and flip-flops for those that wanted to partake.

We were on the road with the castle I had admired from afar yesterday and we decided to go for it.  The scarcely populated hamlet associated with the fortress is Rocca d’Orcia (Citadel of the Orcia).  You had to park outside the village and walk up into the town, up to the fortress, and up through the tower.  That was all too much for Boris, but I did get a fairly close-up picture.

The Citadel of the Orcia, Rocca d’Orcia rises 560 meters above sea level and dominates the entire Valley.
©Jean Janssen

After learning about the citadel, I am not surprised that I was so impressed with it.  The building, from the 4th century, is 560 meters above sea level and dominates the entire Val d’Orcia  The scene is not so fairy-tale up close, but I was proud of myself for making the drive up.  (It was really not bad at all.)

Castiglione d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Next to Rocca is Castiglione d’Orcia, a charming town with a large fountain as you drive in.  Near that square is a platform area with a view of the entire valley.   We ventured in a bit and came to Piazza Vecchietta with its original pebble paving and 17th century well.  There is a UNESCO marker on the town hall with the soaring bell tower.  From here you can also look up and see the castle-like ruins of the citadel keep.  Not so fairy-tale if you think of it, but closer.  I loved seeing the children playing in the piazza.  Two had found a grasshopper and were fascinated.

The Piazza Vecchietta, the main square of Castiglione d’Orcia, still has it original pebble paving and a 17th century well.
It is surrounded by homes (which must have an amazing view of the Valley).
The unseen side to the right is the town hall with bell tower that bears a UNESCO marker.
©Jean Janssen

The Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We drove next on winding and less populated roads through the Valley to the Abbey of Sant’ Antimo, only 10 km from Montalcino.  The Abbey is next to the village of Castelnuove dell’Abate.  Legend holds that the Abbey was founded by Charlemagne as a thank you for the end of a plague that hit his army.

Abbey wing where the Premonstratensian monks live. Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

In 1992 a community of French monks of the order of the Canon Regular were installed at the Abbey and have returned to using the Gregorian Chant during religious functions.  The monks’ home was just to the side of the church and I saw one washing dishes as I took a picture of their produce garden courtyard.

Prior to viewing the church, we stopped at the gift shop and cemetery.  A great bathroom stop (the gift shop that is).  The cemetery was filled with evidence of yesterday’s all Saints Day visits by families with the fresh flowers on the graves still fragrant.  Some families had also left small framed pictures of the deceased.  Battery operated candles also seem to be popular.  The roof of the gift shop served as a deck and a large family gathering was taking place there.

Interior of the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The church itself was quite lovely with its wood ceiling and sweeping arches.  I particularly liked one of the columns and photographed it, to find out later it is the “famous one” representing Daniel in the lion’s den.  There are alabaster and onyx elements that are almost translucent at certain times.  I found myself touching some of the marble stones of the church as I walked around the exterior.

At the Abbey of Sant’Antimo, Tuscano, Italy.

I found the Abbey quite beautiful and the countryside lovely.  I wouldn’t be surprised if the monks didn’t do a little grape producing as well.  There were vineyards on the grounds.  This was an unexpected treat and a special stop on our last day in Tuscany.  We drove from there to Montalcino to see its Fortress.  The city center was closed to traffic as all the parking places had been filled (as we have seen in other cities the last two days).  This is one of the cities that they had warned us would be hard for Boris, so we took the no parking as a sign and headed back to Montefollonico, arriving late afternoon.  I am beginning to get familiar with these roads (just in time for our departure).

The side wall of our garden in Montefollonico, part of the original city walls.
©Jean Janssen

The good news is I got to put the still wet clothes out in the sun to dry.  I also got to enjoy a late afternoon in our garden which is one of the reasons we had chosen this house.  When it was planned for Labor Day weekend, we had intended to spend more time outside in this private space.  Only yesterday did I realize that one of the side walls of the garden was a part of the original city walls.  Boris saw it today when he joined me briefly for sunset.

We are going back to 13 Gobbi (hunchback) for dinner and I might have to get that pasta mixed in the large cheese again.  This evening I also have to pack.  I told Boris some of the packing may have to be done in the morning as the clothes are not yet dry (but getting there).  Ah, our last night in Montefollonico…

Our final sunset on the Tuscan landscape from our garden in Montefollonico.
©Jean Janssen

 

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Chiusi, La Foce, and San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on November 1, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Sometimes this is how I feel in the morning. From the Etruscan Museum, Museo Nazionale Etusco, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The morning after…Retrieving my umbrella (left last night), I was able to take a picture of our table by the fireplace at La Chiusa, Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
@Jean Janssen

Our first stop this morning was La Chuisa.  I had left my umbrella there last night and we still had rain this morning so I wanted to pick it up right away.  The prep chef was working in the kitchen, so I got to see where the magic happens and also took a picture of our table from last night when we walked through to grab the umbrella.

Then we were on the road heading east to Chiusi, where ironically our waiter last night was from.   The city is just after we crossed the A1 (autostrada).  The drive over was fabulous.  The hills and valleys were so green after the rain.  It was cool but not cold.

The Museo Archeologico Nazionale in Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy. We were lucky, the museum had been closed for several days before we arrived and reopened the day we visited.
©Jean Janssen

Chiusi is an Etruscan town with a complete underground city.  It is known for its Museo Archeologico Nazionale (The Etruscan Museum).  The Museum was our first stop; the building itself draws you in.

According to Boris, many believe this to be the best museum of Etruscan artifacts.  The Etruscans borrowed freely from the Greeks and the Egyptians, which was evident when you looked at the museum’s offerings.

Etruscan burial case for a “less well off” member of society. Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Chiusi, Toscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The items exhibited are from the 7th, 6th, 5th century BC  found at or near Chiusi and shown on two floors of the museum.  Pictures were ok without a flash so I went crazy.  There was quite a collection of Etruscan funerary art.  Even the less well off had cases with their likeness on the lid to be remembered fondly in death.

Leaving the museum by the lower floor door, (the guide mercifully let us out this way so Boris would not have to climb back up the stairs) we went to the Cathedral Plaza, Piazza C. Baldini, just “kitty corner” to the front of the museum.

The Roman cistern, water well, bell tower, bell chamber, and the Duomo in Piazza C. Baldini, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

There is a Roman cistern in the front of the bell tower and under the plaza from the 1st century BC; the bell tower was built in the 12 century with the brick bell chamber atop it was added in 1585.  It was All Saints Day and mass was just ending when we arrived, so the Cathedral was open and we were able to go inside.  On this occasion, all the reliquary is displayed and we made it in before it was removed.  The Chiusi Duomo, the Cathedral of St. Secondiano, is built from Etruscan and Roman fragments and is the most ancient cathedral of Tuscany.

5th century mosaic floor tiles at the altar in the Cathedral of Saint Secondiano in Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We toured around other parts of the city down Via della Miscericorida passing the Church of Saint Maria Novella and ending up in Piazza XX Settembre with its fountain, municipal buildings, and Palazzos.  From here I could see the pigeons favorite roost, and went in to see the Franciscan church and lit a candle for Mom.  (I have tried to do this for her all over Italy, but especially on all Saints Day.)

The “bell tower” for the small Church of Saint Maria Novella is just a brick wall with openings to hang the bells. Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We ended up making just a short loop around as Boris’ foot was swelling.  I “deposited” him in the car and went off in search of a bathroom, but there was only squatters to be found.  Our car was parked near the Piazza C. Battisti with its column and wonderful view of the countryside, including Lake Chiusi.  There are actually three lakes near Chiusi, and we took a detour to see them.  On the way, we passed several nurseries and I wanted to get Emma some cypress trees to replace the ones she lost in a storm, but just didn’t know how to get them home.

There is much more to see/do in Chiusi if you are not physically challenged and like archaeology and/or underground sites.  There are Etruscan tombs, catacombs, an underground city tour, and even an underground labyrinth.  In the right weather, the lakes are another nice option.  (Just use the bathrooms at the museum and avoid the public bathrooms).

In Piazza C. Baldini, Chiusi, Tuscano, Italy.

From here we went back in the direction we came once again passing through Chianciano Terme, famous for its baths, but not enough to entice us to stop.  Boris need to rest so we decided to do a some drive through/by locations.  On our list before arrival had been the gardens at La Foce, open to the public in the winter months only on Wednesday afternoons.  The weather had kept us away yesterday, but we decided to drive by anyway just to get a feel for the area.

Castelluccio, next to La Foce where the landowners, the Marquis and Marchesa Origo, hid wounded British soldiers during World War II. On the bottom far left is the plaque of commemoration. Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The 15th century farmhouse was purchased by the Origos in 1924 and they began a restoration of the home and countryside.  The Marquis was Italian, his wife was Anglo-American (her father was American, her mother was an Anglo-Irish aristocrat).  During the second world war, the Origos used their estate as a partisians’ refuge, including 20 refugee children cared for by the family.  Next to La Foce is Castelluccio, a castle ruin the Origos used to hide wounded British Soldiers.  Some of this information is in the guidebooks, but most I have learned from Boris who read Marchesa Origo’s diary, War in Val d’Orcia, An Italian War Diary 1943-1944.

I thought this a lovely shot, with the winding lane lined with cypress trees, so I stopped and took the picture. Afterwards, Boris told me it is a famous view and that Prince Charles painted this angle on a visit to the Val d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

At the turnoff for La Foce, the run turns rough and while signposted, lacks state maintenance.  You have to want to go there.  There are some spectacular views.  Since we saw only one vehicle while traveling to and from, I felt comfortable pulling over and taking a few pictures.  I shot one and as we drove on Boris said he had seen that some vista in a book and then went back in read that Prince Charles had painted that view while in residence.  The family still live at La Foce.

From here we were back on paved roads making our way to San Quirico D’Orcia and traveling through a national park.  The Valley was extraordinary and at one point we saw the sun peaking through and we hopeful for better weather.

The sun breaking through on Val d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The Collegiata Church and Chigi Palace, San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We drove through the small hamlet of Monticchiello with its medieval forts and town walls.  The Cassero tower can we seen from the distance.  Heading on through the Val d’Orcia, I saw this fabulous castle come into view and was certain that was where we were headed, but our turn was in the opposite direction.  So for me, explore Castiglione d’Orcia with its ruined fortress.  The roads are said to be “tortuous, but beautiful.”  It is also the route to the Abbey Sant’Antimo.  Our destination was San Quirico d’Orcia, recommended for its beauty and accessibility for Boris.

The reliquary was out in full force on the altar at the Collegiata Church this All Saints Day. San Quirico d’Orcia, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Boris got to the top of stairs from the parking lot and I could see we were doomed.  I went back down, carried the wheelchair up the stairs and pushed him uphill.  Once there, he was pretty good about letting me park him in a spot with a beautiful view and then me venturing in or around for pictures.  He read the guidebook and told me what to look for. At the top of the hill was the Collegiata Church with the Chigi Palace next door.

Farther downhill was a small market with food products by one of the city gate and the public gardens.  Boris read and shopped and I walked through the Horti Leonini (gardens).

One of the city gates. To the left is the entrance to the Horti Leonin, the public gardens. If you look through the archway you will see the statue of Cosimo de’Medici III in the center. The gardens are very large and manicured.
©Jean Janssen

I came out in time to suggest he get some cookies (dolci) for the ride home.  His next parking place was a fire next to The Church of Santa Maria Assunta made entirely out of travertine.

Just outside the city gate, I noted the city walls looking very castle-like.  Everything has a modern purpose though.  There was a playground next to it with small children on the equipment and the older children, out of school today for the holiday, were playing soccer.  I edited that out of my shot and then regretted it.

outside the city wall, San Quirico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

After I collected Boris, we continued to walk downhill to a Bar we had seen on the way in.  We had not had lunch yet and decided to eat a full meal now and then snack on our market finds for supper.  We caught the end of the lunch service; the same bar had been packed when we arrived in town.  Afterwards I took Boris down to where the “pedestrian only” area started and he waited for me there while I collected the car and then him.

Boris hung out by the fire in front of the travertine church, St. Mary of the Asumption, San Quirico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

It was about 4:30 and the glorious sunset was starting.  Unfortunately, we were headed in the opposite direction.  That made it easier to drive (not looking into the sun), but I hated to miss the view.  Unfortunately, the traffic was heavier and there was nowhere to pull over to get the picture.  The memory of what I saw in the review mirror however, is embedded in my brain.  We got home about 5:07 just after the sun set.

Boris took a nap.  I chased the sunset around Montefollonico and then did a little laundry to make the packing easier tomorrow.  Tomorrow!!!  Not such a good idea as it turns out. Either I did it wrong or there is no spin cycle because it is all wet.  I am not sure it will be dry when I need to pack.  There is no dryer.

Someone got right on it. I know this wasn’t there yesterday, but its November 1 and a family in Montefollonico has put out a Christmas decoration.
©Jean Janssen

We had some fresh gnocchi, so I made a sauce for it and we melted some sheep’s cheese like we have seen in the restaurants and added some of our sliced meats to make it a meal.  Had a little of the local Trequanda wine to go with that.  Now Boris is sleeping and I am blogging.  He asked what I wanted to do tomorrow on our last day at the house.  There are so many choices.  I guess it really doesn’t matter as long as I have dry clothes to do it in.  Happy November from Tuscany.

Tonight’s Tuscan sunset from my garden. Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

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Happy Halloween on a rainy day from Tuscany

Posted on October 31, 2012 by travelbynatasha

A new pumpkin and gourds appeared outside our door this morning.
Montefollonio, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

It is a rainy day here and we had plans to visit the gardens of a famous villa close by that are only open on Wednesday afternoons.  Unfortunately, it is too miserable to get out.  (I suspect they are closed anyway.)

Mariella Pinelli’s Ceramica Montefonllonico is in a frescoed church in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

We started out the morning by going to the local ceramics shop, Ceramica Montefollonico.  The artist, Mariella Spinelli owns the home we are renting and her touches are found in several places like the title work in the bathroom.  Her studio and shop are in a frescoed church in Montefollonico.  She also offers classes.  I found wonderful things in the shop.  (I collect pottery.)  We ordered some pieces to be custom-made and shipped home when complete.  It will take 6-8 weeks, so we might get it for Christmas.  I looked at many things and thought of picking up some gifts, but there is no way to know if it will make it on time.  Guess it will all have to be for me!

Mariella offers classes in ceramics. Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Mariella had also offered to make reservations for us at La Chiusa, considered to be “one of the best restaurants in Italy”.  (per Insight Guides; yes you can tell which guide book we brought with us.)  She is a friend of the owner.  It is also considered one of Tuscany’s fanciest restaurants.  Hopefully they will cut us some slack on that given the cold and miserable weather.  La Chiusa is set in an old mill and is just outside of Montefollonico.  They use traditional recipes and local products.

works in progress at Ceramica Montefollonico
Tuscano Italy
©Jean Janssen

At the shop I asked about Halloween which is apparently celebrated by some here.  The comment was made that activities would be curtailed due to the weather.  “The kids said they were going to watch a horror movie.”  We have seen a few indications of Halloween around Tuscany.  There was also a lucky find.  The first day we were in town, Boris lost one of the ends to his four-footed cane.  He has used it in a modified fashion ever since.  Today, one of the vendors who came to met Mariella spotted the tip outside and noticed Boris’ cane and brought it to him.  Well that’s worth something.

Aound 1:30 things were looking pretty grim for our afternoon touring, so Boris suggested lunch.  I prepared the Tuscan antipasto platter using our market finds.  We had three kinds of meat (I added prosciutto that we had bough at the store earlier), the three cheeses, olives, bread, and a little bowl of olive oil for dipping.

An antipasto platter and wine for our Halloween lunch.
©Jean Janssen

We drank a bottle of aqua frizzante and finished off an open bottle of wine.  Boris said his foot is really bothering him today, probably a product of the weather and the cumulative effect of several days of touring.  It was a good time for me to catch up on my photographs, start my photo journal, and update the blog.  A few people needed “Happy Halloween” emails too.

Maggie in her “swiss style” Fantasyland costume when she works the fireworks at the new Fantasyland in the Magic Kingdom in Walt Disney World. This is in addition to her regular position at the Animal Kingdom as part of the college intership program.

I do have one “out of Italy” piece of news and a bit of an update for my regular blog followers.  My niece Maggie who has been working at the Animal Kingdom at Walt Disney World this semester as a college intern has been asked to staff the new section of Fantasyland that is just opening.  This is hot off the presses news today.  My next trip there is planned for December, but maybe a November trip would also be appropriate.

A view up our street toward the square on a cold, rainy, Halloween afternoon.
©Jean Janssen

Boris took a nap and the 3 pm opening time for the gardens came and went with the rain continuing.  The fog is so thick you can barely see up the street.  When the church bells rang at 4:30, I realized this was a full day inside and I couldn’t be happier.

I brought along my halloween slipper (a gift from mom). Perfect for the airplane over and blogging on a cold, wet, halloween day.
©Jean Janssen

La Chiusa was everything we hoped it would be.  The drive with a little difficult with the fog so thick you could only see 15-20 feet ahead of you.  There was a light crowd, but Mariella’s call had done the trick and we were given the best table next to the fireplace.  It was a romantic setting with tiled floors, a wood beam ceiling, stuccoed walls, and brick archways.  We ordered every course.  Dania, the owner, came by our table twice.  The first time was early in the evening when she stopped by with her granddaughter who was dressed as a strega (witch).  She was adorable.

Just off the Piazza Grande in Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

I had the porcini mushroom salad-excellent.  Then advanced with the trio of pastas and the beef steak with truffles.  Boris had the porcini mushroom soup, the pasta with truffles, and the veal chop.  He asked the waiter for a wine suggestion in the nobile category after we ordered and I saw the look on his face when he saw the “nobile” prices.  He ordered and when they waiter walked away Boris said “this is our anniversary dinner”.   The wine was excellent.

The steward filled my prosecco glass gratis several time and Boris had at least two refills of his after dinner drink on the house, but the bill was still outrageous and worth every penny for this special occasion.  Everything we ate was superb.  Dania came out again and visited with us before we left.  She was fascinated by Boris four-

Halloween decoration in a store front in Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

tip cane (even more so since all four tips are actually there) and his grasp of Italian.  She has owned the restaurant for 36 years.  There are also some special accommodations you can rent.  When he filled Boris’ glass one more time, I suggested that the waiter would have to take him home.  He said he could just stay in one of the room and I could pick him up tomorrow.

Another difficult drive home in the dense fog and someone stole our parking space.  Holiday tomorrow so many people we out late tonight.  I did pretty well parallel parking after that much wine.  Happy Anniversary Boris.

And Happy Halloween to all my readers, Natasha.

A patio in Montefollonio, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

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Hills, Valleys, Flats, and Mountains, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on October 31, 2012 by travelbynatasha

The Church of Saints Peter and Andrew in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy dominates the main piazza. the 14th Century church is Romanesque in style and has a black and white ashlar facade creating a chromatic effect.
@Jean Janssen

Not with my hips! Staircase leading to a small door on the main piazza in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy. This is how I felt about the size of the roads in Petroio.
©Jean Janssen

Today we toured hill and valleys, and flats and mountains.  We started off close to home in the medieval hilltown of Petroio.  Nothing was open yet and the town is rather isolated, so we did a drive-through.  You leave the main road and are reminded what the town is known for-pottery.  There is a big factory there.  I was worried that it wouldn’t be very picturueque until we turned the corner and there the road continued under a canopy of trees.  Lovely.  The village is small and the streets very narrow and one way.  The town is just as a preserved village should be.  There was one spot there you were making 90 degree turns in the space for a single car.  You miss the buildings by what feels like inches.  Pretty proud of myself for handling that drive.

The Cacciaconti Castle with its imposing cylindrical tower in Trequanda, Toscano, Italy. It was closed for renovations during our visit.
©Jean Janssen

We drove on to Trequanda passing other hilltowns in the distance.  There were orchards of olive trees and we spotted workers beginning a harvest.  Boris wanted to make a stop in Trequanda due to the military history and the remaining castle fortress which was unfortunately under renovation and not open.  No parking close by so I dropped him off in town and parked at the bottom of the hill.  Things were pretty quiet and I felt like all of Boris’ words were echoing through the town square particularly when he chose to announce that this was still a very communist city.  By the looks we got, I not sure they get many visitors.

Interior. Church of Saints Peter and Andrew.
Trequnda, Toscano, Itay.
©Jean Jansen

The church’s black and white ashlar facade created a chromatic effect unusual in the area. The interior was simple and there was a charge to light the paintings (unless you had a flash which was permitted).  Boris spent most of this time in the information center and picked up a few books and a bottle of the local wine.  I reminded him that if he buys it he carries it, but I always end up taking it.  I get dirty looks from people thinking “that poor man and that young woman is making him carry all the packages.”  (I added the “young” part.)

Saint’s Coffin just below the altar in Chiesa di S. Agostino, just inside the Fiorrentina gate in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

From here we went to Sinalunga, passing the first hitchhiker we had seen in years.  There are lots of wineries in this area and we drove on two-land roads through the vineyards.  The lower town of Sinalunga is unremarkable.  When we reached the upper town we found that the central section was cut off by a large market.  Parking was remote.  I couldn’t seen get Boris close enough to drop him off.  I don’t mind running the gauntlet through the market, but it looked pretty cheesy and path looked treacherous for Boris.  He learned his lesson yesterday and wisely said lets skip it.  We could see the top of the duomo in the distance; it was even more impressive looking up from the lower town.

Olive tree at the bell tower for St. Agostino Church in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy. A circular metal bench is at the base of the tree for visitors.
©Jean Janssen

It was 11:30 am and we had already blown through Boris itinerary for the day, so we headed to Arezzo, which was on the list as a separate trip later in the week.  We didn’t get on the Autostrada (A1) but crossed it and rode through a flat area of Tuscany with lots of farming.  Attractive, but we have been jaded by the beauty of the valleys and hilltowns.  We saw the snow-capped mountains in the distance as we drove to Arezzo, but didn’t actually stop in the city, instead turning east to go through the mountains to Sansepolcro, enclosed by the Alpe di Catenaia and Alpe della Luna.  The city is the birthplace of Piero della Francesca  (for art enthusiasts) and the Buitoni pasta company (you have seen it in our stores).  The art you have to drive in for; the butuni factory you can’t miss as you enter the city.

view of the tree-lined avenue
looking out of the Fiorentina gate,
Sanseplcro, Toscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

A tree-lined avenue showing its fall color lead to the old walled-city.  Passing through the Fiorentina gate, we found the old city rather quiet and headed in. I made a quick stop in Chiesa di S. Agostino, just inside the gate.  Apparently there had been a market earlier in the day and they were just beginning to take down the stalls.  I watched a vender as he pulled in the very large canopy that extended out from his van.  He had machinery on top that would pull it in to fit in a rather small space the length of this van. Unsold merchandise went inside the van and he was off.  This “canopy van” was not unique; many of the vendors had them.

A bar lunch on the steps of the Duomo.
Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

When we reached the main square, Piazza Torre Di Berta, it was “break time”, that midday siesta still enjoyed in many parts of Italy.  Shops, museums, offices, ect are closed so the workers can have lunch, often going home for several hours.  Anytime between 1 and 4 pm you might have a problem getting to enjoy your planned excursion.  The best thing to do is go with it and have your lunch then too.  The restaurants, bars, and quick stops shops are all open.  Italians don’t have a big morning meal, but they do have a long lunch around 2 pm and dinner no earlier than 8 pm.  If the restaurant you are at is open before 8 for dinner, it caters to tourists.

The Piazza Torre Di Berta, the main square in Sanseplcro was full of vendors when we arrived. In the time it took for me to tour the Duomo and have lunch it was cleared out. On the far left, the last vendor is clearing out. On the far right, the street cleaner and garbage truck are handling clean up.
©Jean Janssen

The Duomo, just north of the main square, was open so I walked around it while Boris set off for the tourist office (which of course was closed).  We met again to have lunch outside the Duomo and wait for the Museo Civico to open at 2:30.  The clean up on the main square was in full swing and we watched the venders pack up, the street cleaner come through, and the trash collector pick up what was left (and we also had a lovely view of the Cathedral).  In spite of it being a cold day, the bar had tables outside in the full sun and it was wonderful.  It wasn’t until the end of our meal when the sun had moved on that we again felt the chill.  (Bars in Italy are also a casual type restaurant; I confess; I had pizza again.)

The Resurrection by Piero della Francesca, 15th Century.

After lunch, we toured the museum, also north of the main square and just off Piazza Garbialdi (although the entrance is off Via Niccolo Aggiunti) and saw the famous works of art originally in the Duomo.  Boris said The Resurrection by Piero della Fancesca has been described as the “perfect painting”.  I know nothing about art, but I liked the painting.  Jesus’ expression was odd, even severe, but he had perfect abs (a long walk to Jerusalem can do that for you).  It was those “guarding” the tomb, off course fast asleep and in medieval garb, that drew my attention.  The museum actually had several pieces that I liked included a multi-paneled gold altar piece with a bald Mary, also by Piero della Francesca.  Bald Mary (considered to be wearing “a transparent veil”) is what caught my eye, but it is the work itself that keeps your attention.

The Madonna of Mercy by Piero della Frandesca (commissioned in 1445).
Now in the Museo Civico in Sansepolcro, Tuscano, Italy.

The Cathedral Sansepolcro, Toscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Boris was tiring out, so I finished the museum on my own and we went back to collect the car.  It was about 3:30 at this point and we had an hour and 20 minute drive back to the house.  We should have turned back.  He was tired, the sky was cloudy now, and we were going to be coming in a different way.  Well, we didn’t.  We were relatively close to Michangelo’s birthplace in the mountains so we went for it.  My conditions were: we could  make the turn around in 40 minutes or less, I would not have to drive in the dark, Boris knew exactly how to get back, and he would not later claim it was too dark to read the map.  I was very specific.  I said these things several times.  (You can see what is coming.)

This is the wooden door to the Cathedral in Sansepolcro. I thought the heads made for an interesting picture.
©Jean Janssen

We set out passing through Anghiari.  Boris was thrilled and gave me the complete history.  Anghiari was the site of a famous battle between the Florentine army supported by the pope and Milanese troops who had recently won in Sansepolcro wanted to expand the Duke of Milan’s holdings in Tuscano.  The walled city sat right on the edge of the hill looking as if it is going to fall off any minute save the high city walls.  We made it to Caprese Michangelo and did a drive through to see the church he was baptized in and the small hamlet of buildings almost completely surrounded by walls.  Again the view was better after you left and looked back up.  Headed back to Anghiari, we saw a lovely lake, which Boris said was a dammed part of the Tiber River.

Anghiari, eastern Tuscano, Italy, was the site of a famous battle between the papal-supported Florentine army and Milanese troops trying to expand the Duke of Milan’s holdings in Tuscany. The battle was also the subject of a lost Leonardo Di Vinci fresco in Palazzio Vecchio which some believe still exists under the current paintings.

We reached Anghiari and I really wanted to capture a picture of the city from below, but both routes we tried took us a different way and you could see the darkness coming with the clouded sky.  There was a section of the highway were I thought I spotted more hitchhikers on the way out.  When we got close, I changed my opinion of the mini-skirted, knee-high boot wearing young women, one of whom was sitting in a white plastic chair as if this were a frequent hangout.  Boris said they were gypsies.  Gypsies?  Not what I was thinking.  On the way back, one of them was there again.  Boris came around to my way of thinking.

spotted while roaming the streets of
Sanseplocro, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Once back near Arezzo we got on the Autostrada and realized how far we had come.  We exited at the familiar exit from the first day.  We were now under a quarter of a tank and I spotted a gas station and suggested we stop, but Boris said to wait until one was convenient.  (He means on our side of the road.)  Big mistake.  You always stop because many of these small communities don’t have stations or they are not open late.

Then we got to THE INTERSECTION and Boris told me to follow the road to Montepulciano.  I told him it didn’t look familiar.  Came to another roundabout.  I said I didn’t remember this many roundabouts. He said the first right.  We went under a bridge.  I told him I didn’t remember the bridge.  Boris confessed he wasn’t sure which way.  I pull over and he gets the map.  We go back.  He takes us another way.  Thinks it is also wrong.  I suggest the map.  He says it is too dark to read it.  Of course, because now it is dark and we are very low on gas and of course we have not passed another gas station.  Finally, I pull into a small community grocery store.  Remind Boris about the conditions of me driving in Italy and that all have been broken.  He does the unthinkable for a guy.  He goes into the grocery store and asks directions.  Thank God for his Italian lessons.  Yes, we found gas and made it home.  No, I was not happy.

The butcher at the Montefollonico market kept giving us samples and we ended up going home with two types of meats and three cheeses.
©Jean Janssen

As we drove in, what is happening-a market!!  Ah, the way to Natasha’s heart-shopping.  Can I be won over with meat, cheese, and vegetables?  On this occasion yes.  That and not suggesting I cook tonight.  He admitted at dinner he knew he couldn’t ask about cooking dinner and that he knew I would blog about this.  Its called venting Boris!  We ate again at La Botte Piena and had an even better meal.  Boris had two super beers (each about 3/4 the size of a bottle of wine). Spotted this wonderful jack-o-lantern on our street and felt festive.

Happy Halloween from Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Come on.  I am in Italy.  It was a great day.

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Pienza and Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy

Posted on October 30, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Boris, ready to set out from our home in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

This is our first real full day of touring.  I let Boris make the selections since he is navigating and has the physical restrictions.  He has also done a better job of preparing for this trip, destination wise.  Normally I am all over reading the guidebooks and I did do that several months ago, but since the trip was up in the air until Wednesday of last week, I just didn’t want to read and get excited about a trip I might not get to take.

View from the wall walk in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy.
From the wall vantage point, you can see Monte Amiata and the Val d’ Orcia.
©Jean Janssen

We ate breakfast out of our stash at home (yea, we used some of the groceries) and set out to reach our first destination at 10ish.  The time changed here the day we arrived so it is getting dark earlier.  Our first stop was Pienza, only about 11 km from Montefollonico.  Oh but what an 11km it was.  I am an old pro at the driving now and had a chance to look at the scenery along our two-lane road.  Breathtaking.  The Tuscan hills and valleys are spectacular.  You constantly feel like you are looking at a postcard or National Geographic photo.

The papal seal is on the facade of the cathedral
in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Parking is always an issue, but since it was early we found a spot just outside the old city. Boris referred to this as a “model town”.  The guide books refer to it as “an exquisite Renaissance doll house” and an “utopian town”.  Pope Pius II took his home town of Corsignano and created the “first masterpiece in modern town planning”.  His architect was the Florentine Bernardo Rossellino.  With the addition of a cathedral, the pope renamed the city Pienza after himself.  The papal seal is found on the facade of the cathedral.  I found the city charming and perfectly situated.

The well on the cathedral square, Piazza Pio II where you will also find the Duomo (cathedral), Palazzo Piccolomini (the pope’s home), and the Museo Diocesano.
©Jean Janssen

This is Boris’ first real day of pushing himself with tourism.  He had to deal with a lot with the air travel, but he was mostly in a wheelchair.  Today, at his request, we left the wheelchair in the backseat of the car and started out on foot and cane.  He took a few breaks which allowed me to wander around and take pictures.  However, my first stop was to buy a hat.  I came equipped with coat, gloves, and scarf, but with highs in the 30s something more was needed.  I bought this cute grey one without a thought as to how to get it home.  My visa didn’t work (my fault for not calling them before I left.  Amex is used to my foreign travel and told me I don’t need to call anymore before I leave.)  The grey hat took the last of my cash.  Thank heavens for a digital camera.  I can snap about without hesitation and it doesn’t cost a penny more to take those pictures.

A more fragrant option-mums in a cornucopia in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy. Actually, do mums smell? Everything in this area of the city smelled like cheese so I am not sure.
©Jean Janssen

We spent about two hours roaming around Pienza which has been rated the second best hilltown in Tuscany by Insight Guides.  (San Gimignano, one our residences during our honeymoon and the most romantic of them all, is well deserting of first place.)  Pienza is also famous for its excellent pecorino cheese and there was plenty of it to be found.  Not what I thought I was smelling the first time I caught a whef (you don’t want to know).  Its in such abundance that the smell was overwhelming.  Just follow your nose.

We hated to give up our great parking spot (and what an excellent job of parallel parking Natasha if I say so myself), but it was on to another of Insight Guides‘ top 10 hilltowns, Montepulciano.  We can actually see Montepulciano from the end of our street in Montefollonico.  When I was at the vantage point near Chiesa del Triano, I spotted and photographed this marvelous city without knowing what it was.  It is only 5 km away but reached by winding roads that are longer.

Montepulciano as seen from just outside the walls of Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Porta al Prato, an entrance into the wall city of Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

We parked just outside the Porta al Prato.  Its pre-paid metered parking and just suck it up and pay more than you think you will need.  You don’t want to have to walk down just to put in more coins.  (The going rate at press time is 1.3 euro per hour.)  Once inside, you quickly reach the Piazza Savonarola with a statute of the Marzocco lion on a column, the symbol of Florentine power.  Just to the left is a Bancomat so I replenished my cash.  Meanwhile, Boris spotted the wine tastings.

There are underground cellars in Montepulciano, some of which you can tour for free.  We went into one shop with an Etruscan tomb as the draw.  We tried three wines in the tasting and Boris got one bottle but I was unimpressed by the selections.  There is also more cheese and that smell.  Don’t get me wrong, I love the taste.

Wine tasting room with an Etruscan tomb at the far end. Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

You follow this main street, Via di Gracciano nel Corso up to the main square, a long steep climb.  Lining the street are noble palaces.

These Etruscan tomb markers decorate the Palazzo Buceli on Montepulciano’s Via di Gracciano nel Corso.
©Jean Janssen

One nobleman adorned the facade of this palace with Etruscan tomb markers (“headstones”).  The corso is also lined with shops of every kind and a few restaurants.  Wine tasting is abundant.  We were warned against coming to Montepulciano, but Boris really wanted to see the Piazza Grande (the main square) and so we started uphill.  Along the way were many wonderful photo opportunities and I took full advantage of his slower pace and rest stops to grab pictures.  One of my favorites was the bell tower across from Chiesa Di Santa Agostino with the figure on top.

This figure adorns the clock tower across from Chiesa Di Santa Agostino.
Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The climb was extremely difficult for Boris and more than once I suggested that we had gone far enough, but he was determined to reach the top.  He knew that the climb was far too steep for me to push him up in a wheelchair.  At times when he leaned on me I could barely support his weight. After a visit to the Chiesa Del Gesu, we reached a crossroads to a scenic walk around and up to the plaza or the steep climb directly up to the high point.  This is where Boris said enough.  I frankly don’t know how he made it this far.  He sat down and camera in hand I made the last and steepest climb to the top.

Entering the Piazza Grande with the Palazzo Comunale in the background. Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

The Grand Piazza is indeed large, open, and impressive.  Few people had made it this far and the limited crowd made it seem even more massive.  The Cathedral is there along with the Palazzo Comunale, Palazzo Taruci, and the Palzzo Contucci.

The Cathedral in Piazza Grande, Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

I didn’t want to leave Boris long, but I did tour the Duomo and saw the Bartolo masterpiece, the Assumption.  I loved the gold altarpiece.

Anyone making the climb sees the same faces along the way, and I had an Australian friend snap a picture of me so I can prove I made it.  Note the grey hat, my purchase from earlier in the day.

On the steps of the Duomo (Cathedral) in Piazza Grande, Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.

I headed down to meet up with Boris.  I told him if he was ready he could start down and I would catch up since our parking meter would be running out.  He wasn’t in the place I left him so I was encouraged that he had started down.  I found him after a short distance enjoying a beer and announcing that he had ordered appetizers and that the bar had pizza.

The pizza that made it worthwhile. Along the Via di Gracciano nel Corso, Montepulciano, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

You should know I love Italian pizza, so much that I won’t eat American pizza anymore.  I looked at him, knew we had only 20 minutes left on the parking and also knew I couldn’t say no. (bribing me with pizza, how unfair is that?) Actually I knew he was disappointed to have not reached the top, we I trekked down to the bottom, added coins to the parking meter, and went back up.  I was so hot when I got there, off came the coat, gloves, hat, scarf, and the sleeves got rolled up.  Two beers in, Boris was happy and the pizza was worth it.  I also didn’t feel guilty eating knowing I had gotten that exercise.

I just liked this little guy and wanted to fit this picture in before the end of the blog. If you need to tie up your horse while visiting the Piazza Pio II in Pienza, Tuscano, Italy, you are all set.
©Jean Janssen

At our late lunch (by American standards), Boris discussed our next city, but after he made the climb down he was tired and we packed it in for the day.  On the way back, we found the old road to Montefollonico and I drove through the vineyards and the valley that I see from the end of our street near Chiesa del Triano.  It might have been the prettiest road of the day.  (It was certainly the roughest.)

As I anticipated, when we arrived home at about 4 pm (only 2 hours before dark), Boris took a nap.  I’ll be going to the store later in the evening-yes I forgot toilet paper the first day-and making dinner in tonight.  But for the rest of the daylight hours I will sit in the kitchen and work on this blog and enjoy a spectacular sunset from my garden with no regrets that we didn’t rush off to another hilltown.

Today’s sunset from our garden in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

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Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy (and Natasha drives in Europe)

Posted on October 29, 2012 by travelbynatasha

City well in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Yes, Natasha did actually drive (successfully) through these city gates into Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy. There is a reason that I insisted that Boris get a small car with an automatic transmission. (FYI most of the car rentals in Europe are a manual transmission vehicle; reserve an automatic early if you want one.)
©Jean Janssen

Leaving the airport in Rome, I was driving.  This is a first for me.  I am usually the navigator and Boris drives.  But since Boris hasn’t driven in 5 1/2 months and the last time he did so someone nearly killed him, we made the switch.  He was actually a pretty good navigator and I actually got us there.  We drove from Fiumicino, Rome’s major international airport and caught the loop, the GRA around the city and then headed north an the A1.  The highway is actually quite scenic and if I had not been so sleep deprived, I would have enjoyed the view more on this easy-to-travel highway.  As it was, I insisted that Boris talk or play the Italian radio stations very loudly to keep me awake.  If we weren’t late to meet the house agent, I would have pulled over.

The trip to Montefollonico in Tuscany actually took us almost 2 1/2 hours even though there was very little traffic, I drove about 70 mph (roughly converted from km), and we made no stops.  It was highway driving most of the way and then we drove through a couple of villages before arriving at the walled city.  Due to Boris’ condition, we had special permission to park inside this medieval village.  We passed through the city gates and made the loop around before realizing we were right the first time and just had passed it up.

The view from our garden just before sunset.
Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

With a little doing, including disturbing our next door neighbors, we found the house agent and arrived at our home for the week just before sunset.  We were two hours late, but her ceramics shop in the village was still open so she was nearby.  Those of you that read the last post know that we were arriving without our luggage.  We also needed to pick up things from the grocery store before it closed until Monday.  Fortunately, the store was open until 8 pm.  After completing the check-in, Boris and I went down to the village store and picked up food, drinks, and a few household items.  The items found in the home rentals in Italy vary widely, but you will likely need your own shampoo, conditioner and soap, all of which are just easier to bring from home.  You will probably want to purchase paper towels, toilet paper, and washing and cleaning supplies.  Always check the rental first and see what is already there (and what isn’t).  In other words, don’t buy microwave popcorn if there is no microwave or Cascade for the dish washer if there is none.

view from just outside the city walls
Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

After dropping off supplies at home, we went out for dinner at one of the three restaurants inside the walled village.  That is a surprising number given the small size. We had dinner at La Costa just across from our home.  They have a wonderful terrance with an exceptional view, but it was too cold and too dark to enjoy it this evening.  We opted for fireside.  Boris had an appetizer of sauteed artichokes and the mixed grill with chicken, rabbit, and sausage.  I enjoyed a homemade pasta course with onion, bacon, tomato, and peppers and then pork with boletus (porcini) mushrooms as my main course.  We shared two bottles of sparkling (con gas or frizzante) water and a bottle of the house red, Abbadia, a locally-produced wine.  Boris had a chocolate mousse for dessert (dolci); he always orders something chocolate because he knows I don’t like it and won’t try to take a bite or more.

Boris had a (big) local beer with lunch at La Botte Piena in Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Exhausted, we went straight to bed after dinner.  My body clock was off so I woke up at 3 am and couldn’t get back to sleep until sometime after 5 am.  I woke up again at 10:30 am thinking I was just in time to meet the courier with the luggage.  They had called the night before and told us it would be an eleven am delivery.  Boris reminded me that was Italian time and the luggage arrived at 1 pm, “right on schedule”.  I immediately unpacked all the bags and took a glorious shower and dressed in clean clothes.

It was a cold and rainy day and we were still jet-lagged so we didn’t mind not getting much touring done for the day.  We tried another restaurant in the village, La Botte Piena, with a simple menu and a fabulous wine selection.  A lot of people stopped in to try the sliced meat and cheese bar and the drink bar as well.

La Botte Piena is a charming spot for lunch or dinner, to have to glass of wine with a selection of sliced meats and sausage, or just to stop in to pick up a bottle of wine (or three bottles as Boris and I did).
©Jean Janssen

The walls were all covered with the wine selections and all the cabinets and counters were made from old wine crates.  You could buy wine to go and they packed it in a wonderful handled-carrier.  I had bruschetta with sheep’s cheese and bacon and a meat and tomato pasta.  Boris tried the onion soup (this region is known for its flavorful onions) and a mixed meats platter. I had a glass of red wine and Boris had a local beer in a bottle as big as any wine selection.

Somebody here celebrates Halloween. The “guard dog” in the far left side of the picture didn’t start barking until I was leaving after taking the photo. Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy.
©Jean Janssen

Boris had walked around the village in the morning while I was still sleep.  Between that and the “super beer” he had at lunch, he was ready for a nap.  I left him and the box of 3 bottles of wine that we purchased at our “villa” and headed out to tour the village with my camera.  The village is small, but lovely.  Most of buildings are made with brick and stone and are adorned with flowers.  I even saw signs that Halloween is celebrated here (well at least by one family).

Chiesa del Triano, Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Just outside the city walls is the 16th century Chiesa del Triano (Triano Church); the views from this spot were breathtaking.  There were lots of benches around and had it not been so cold I would have just sat and admired the view.  It was Sunday and there were quite a few day-trippers milling around the town.  With photos to download from my memory card, I headed back to our villa and found my blog spot at the kitchen table where I could download, type, and enjoy the view.

Boris decided he wanted to got out to eat again for dinner.  Remind me why we rushed out for those groceries yesterday?  He had spotted the third restaurant on his walk and didn’t want the day to go by without trying that one too.  I wasn’t really hungry, but boy am I glad he talked me into this.  We ate at Ristorante 13 Gobbi located to the left just after you come through the city gate.  I spotted one of the specialties of the house on the menu that I wanted to try.  I just didn’t realize how special it was.

Preparing the speciality of the house at Ristorante 13 Gobbi. Hot pasta is dropped into the large cheese and coated. It is served with crushed white pepper on top.
Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

The chef brought out steaming hot bowls of pasta and dropped them into this large circular cheese and mixed.  He then put it back into the bowls and served it with fresh crushed white pepper on top.  Wow!!  delicious!

I figured there was no way my entree could top that, but my beef filet with porcini mushrooms was excellent.  Boris had a wild boar stew on toast.  This was my favorite meal of the three and I have certainly made up for the skipped meals and then some. Of course we added a bottle of wine to dinner and I learned that the reference “nobile” means a better class of wine that has been aged in oak barrels for at least three years.  If anyone tells you visiting Italy is not about food and wine, they have just not been here before.

View from my blog spot at the kitchen table. When it is not dark, cold, and raining, I have the door open. Well actually when it is dark and raining. If it is just cold, I put my coat on, suck it up, and leave the door open.
Montefollonico, Tuscano, Italy
©Jean Janssen

Tomorrow we plan an early start and some serious touring.  Signing off from my blog spot at the kitchen table with a garden view of the glorious Tuscan countryside…

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To Tuscany with a wheelchair

Posted on October 28, 2012 by travelbynatasha

Boris was just released to transition from a wheelchair to a cane (after 5 1/2 months), so we are off to stay in Tuscany for a week.  We planned this as a post recovery trip over the Labor Day weekend when his full recovery was anticipated in August.  We could only make one postponement, so here we go wheelchair and all.

our Lufthansa air bus, obviously I did not take this picture

We are flying on Lufthansa.  Before Continental (now United) changed it membership from Sky Team to Star Alliance, we made most of our connections for European travel (other than on Continental) through Amsterdam on KLM.  This trip we leave Houston and connect in Frankfurt to Rome.  Rocky drove us to the airport and with a porter with our luggage, I rolled Boris up to the gate in the lightweight, portable wheelchair we had bought on-line for the trip.  (Boris is rather partial to this one as the smaller wheels mean that he can not roll it himself and I have to push him.  It weights only 15 pounds.)  After checking our bags and the wheelchair, Ricardo drove Boris, with me in tow, through the security process using the airport assistance service that we had requested through Lufthansa at no charge to us.

There were these cool under-the-stairs closets on our Lufthansa 380 air bus. Yes, a big deal when you have to fight for overhead storage. Since I got on first I snagged the overhead space, but saw the flight attendant storing all kinds of things from guitars to paintings in these closets. I pointed these out to Sharon and George for their storage.
©Jean Janssen

We completely by-passed the regular security lines and with minimal wait, completed the process.  Ricardo handled everything for Boris and then came back and put his items through on a tray.  I did the usual thing for myself through the same line.  On the other side, Ricardo again helped Boris and he took us from security directly to our gate via various elevators.  He was very friendly and advised us throughout the process.  We waited at the gate and he returned just before the boarding process.  One of eight wheelchair passengers, Boris and I boarded in the first group watching the end of the cleaning process.

My view into the cockpit from row 52 (the second row on the lower level) on the Lufthansa 380 airbus. We were on a new plane. On the right is the side wall of stairs leading up to the second level where first and business class passengers sit in rows 1-49. On the upper left is the screen for fight attendants where I watched the front camera view of our take-off and landing.
©Jean Janssen

We are on a brand new a 380 air bus.  I was in row 51 of the multilevel plane, which was the second row on the bottom level.  First and Business Class are on the upper level.  The plane has 94 rows.  The staircase I sat next to (which is only used at terminals with only one loading ramp) was not used, but had cool storage compartments below where guitars, walking sticks, and items for people in the first couple of rows (where overhead storage did not exist) were placed.  From my seat, I could also see the screen for the camera placed in the front of the plane and watched our take offs and landings.  If you walked forward from my seat and went up a different staircase, you reached the cockpit.  We were told there was more than one cockpit on the plane.

New plane does not equal more room.  In fact if anything, the space seemed smaller.  (I am sure it is not that I am getting bigger.)  I suspect you have to have a ticket to the upper level to enjoy a space advantage.  New plane also does not equal more or better movies.  I once flew on a (I think Singapore) flight with almost 400 movie/video offerings.  This had so few.  The only movie available in the drama category was The Rose with Bette Milder which came out in 1979.  In thrillers, two versions of Spiderman were showing.  I opted to watch a few sitcoms just before trying to go to sleep.

Sharon’s husband George took this picture of she and I on the Lufthansa air bus on our way to Frankfurt.

I occasionally see people I know on the plane, but on this flight the couple sitting next to me were friends.  Well, I knew the wife and met the husband when they boarded.  What a surprise.  Sharon is someone who I have just gotten to know in the last year and a half and with a 9 hour flight someone I now know a little better.  What are the odds?  Her husband is convinced we planned this.  They are also going to Italy, but connecting in Frankfurt to a flight to Florence.  They are staying outside of Siena with 12 friends at a villa that sleeps 40, complete with winery.

Since Boris and I both like aisle seats, he sat a few rows back.  This was most helpful when we boarded the plane and the flight attendant thought he was traveling alone and did everything for him.  I just pretended I was on my own and was able to get situated before then regular fliers boarded.  Boris and I are going to spend a whole week alone, so a little separate time on the plane is probably a good idea.  We do this all the time to get aisle seats.

Our late offs and landings were so smooth and we reached altitude very quickly after take off.  In North America, the a380 only flies out of Houston, San Francisco, and Miami.  The flight was delayed one hour because it arrived in late and the cleaning of a 94-row plane takes a long time.  We were a little concerned when we landed with just under an hour before our next flight, but knew we had wheelchair assistance in Frankfurt.  Just before touch down we realized it was snowing outside the windows.  We got a white welcome to Germany.

The new Pier A terminal in the Frankfurt airport. It had been open only 15 days when we arrived. And the people in this photo, or any people for that matter, were nowhere to be found.

We were literally the first people off the plane and the assistant was waiting for us.  In spite of this, all his coordination assistance and phone calls took so long that we were the last people to leave the arrival area.  I kid you not.  The plane parked at a new section of the Frankfurt airport, Pier A, that has only been open 15 days.  It was built to accommodate the new larger planes.  Our “driver” has been offering assistance at the airport for the past 6 years, but was only one day off training in the new section and we were his first passengers to assist in this area.  We went through several passageways, rode on the largest elevators I have ever seen, and saw almost no other person.  If we had been in Georgia, I would be thinking Deliverance.  At the passport checkpoint, we were only only ones there (not counting the two passport officials and the security guard).  Oddly and in spite of the fact that this is a new section, Boris’ chair (airport issued) would not fit through the checkpoint row and we went around through an exit.

Our guide did comment on the distance to reach gates saying you probably need to schedule at least a two-hour layover for getting around the Frankfurt airport.  He clearly is staying in shape and I got my workout trying to keep up.

We ended up at a special lounge, again deserted except for three hostesses.  Our guide left us there letting us know someone would come get us when I was time to go to the bus.  There were several rows of seats with glasses and bottles of water for you to enjoy while you waited.  Lufthansa is set to release another large plane and when several of those are in service I am sure that this area will be busier.  After just a few minutes we were taken downstairs via elevator where a special bus for the disabled picked us up and took us to the airplane. On the bus, we met a family from Holland, Michigan who are in their first year of three stationed in Germany on business who were also going on our flight.  They were leaving Rome on a cruise of the Mediterranean.

So we ride the disabled bus to the plane to find that Boris has to climb the stairs up to get in.  Does anyone else find this rather ironic?  I don’t know what they would have done if he couldn’t make them.  Carry him up?  This is one of their apron gates where you are bussed to an exterior site and enter the doors from the front and rear via staircases.  You would think with the tough winter weather in Frankfurt that they wouldn’t use this type of entry.  Can you say jetway?  The ridiculous thing was that they didn’t direct the regular passengers to one entrance or the other so you had people entering from the rear fighting there way up to row 7 and people entering in the front who sat in the last row of the plane.  You can image the bottleneck in the middle.  You are also seeing all the overhead space quickly filling up and you can not get any closer to your seat with people coming straight at you.  I had foolishly thought the short layover would be our toughest problem on this flight.

At one point when people were still all over the aisles, the flight attendant announced that boarding was complete.  I am sure she just meant that all the buses had arrived and that people were on the plane, but she got a pretty hardy laugh from the passengers.  Once everyone was seated, we were told that we would have to remain stationary so they could de-ice the wings.  After that delay, we were told that there were about 8 aircraft in front of us, but we were looking at at least a half hour delay because one of the two outbound runways was closed due to wind.  When we finally made it to the takeoff position a mechanical de-icer came and treated the wings.  (I know that some of you think this is not a big deal, but I live in Houston Texas and was wearing shorts that day before this.)  I didn’t see anything like this the first time they told us they were going to de-ice the wings, but from my window position I saw this machine with eight big spotlights spray a thin green foam on the wings.  The sprayer was spastic moving back and forth, but it covered everything.  The good thing about the window seat was I got to see it; the bad thing was that I couldn’t crawl over the two German women next to me to get my camera out of the overhead in time.  When we finally took off most of the foam was off the wings before we left the ground.  We were an hour and 45 late.

So, what was my first thought?  Well, we had about 4 hours when we reached Rome before we needed to meet the agent for our apartment.  It was about a two hour drive away.  Oh no, no lunch!!  I don’t like to eat airplane food so I was pretty hungry.  Little did I know that it was going to get worse.

When we landed, I watched the wheelchair that we checked in Houston being taken off the plane.  They told us it would be brought to the gate and gave us a special receipt for it.  As we exited the plane, they sorted out which chair was whose and we went down to collect baggage, Boris being pushed by an airline service person.  He was able to point out an ATM, Bancomat in Italy.

This is what you ask for when you need an ATM in Europe.

These machines usually give you a choice of language, but the English button didn’t do anything on this one, so after several tries the man behind me tried to show me in Italian.  That didn’t work either.  Finally after watching him, I figured out the first number to put in was the code and the second was the amount.  You also have to know the conversion so you are not asking for euros in an amount that exceeds your daily limit.  Finally after watching him actually get cash out, I tried again and actually completed the transaction in Italian.  Of course, there was no line when  I got there and a line of about 10 people when I left.  But I did it.

When we got to baggage claim, Boris stayed with the assistant and I went and got a cart (ask for a trolley) for transporting the luggage to the car rental spot.  The trolley was 2 euros.  Luckily I had brought some euro coins with us because the bancomat machine gives you paper money and the trolley machine takes only coins.  We were ready for our luggage which-wait for it-did not come.  So in spite of that long delay in Frankfurt, our wheelchair, but not our suitcases, made it to Rome.

Our assistant took us to the lost luggage claim counter and Boris started that paperwork and trying to figure out how to explain where we staying (an apartment in walled-city in Tuscany) to the representative.  At this point I knew that we were missing more than lunch.  We were at the counter so long that our assistant went off shift and another person came to help us to the car rental spot.  (On the overhead monitors they tell you what luggage service is handling your flight.  If you have missing luggage, note the name of the luggage service which will help you determine which counter to go to.)

The good thing was that Boris, in a wheelchair, looked kind of pitiful and told them that his bandages were in his checked luggage (true).  That and the fact that he was trying to communicate in Italian, helped him to secure their commitment to bring the bags all the way to Tuscany that night.  So we were off to find the car rental counter.  Where we found out we had to go to the outside counter.  The assistant was with us the whole way.  She pushed Boris; I pushed the luggage.  She actually stayed with us until we got to the car itself.  Amazing.  Yes, someone in a wheelchair could have done this on their own.  Well maybe not the luggage part.

We had a 2+ hour drive, but only 25 minutes before we had to meet the rental agent.  Good thing Boris can speak Italian.  He called while I drove.  So on to Tuscany…

PS  I promise tomorrow there will more exciting pictures.  Yes, I do realize that ATM pictures are not that fascinating.

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