travelbynatasha

The Gateway of India and the Elephanta Caves, Mumbai

Posted on May 2, 2013 by travelbynatasha

At the dock in Mumbai (Bombay), India.
©Jean Janssen

Today we are in Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay. The late arrival of the pilot and the customs officials meant we missed our noon arrival and tours left later than expected. We are doing a full day tour of Mumbai tomorrow with Fabian from Tours by Locals after we get off the ship. Today we are visiting the Elephnata caves on an island off the coast with a ship’s tour.

We once again had to undergo a face-to-face inspection with customs officials before getting off the ship. Then our landing cards were checked as we exited the ship and checked again when we went through metal detectors in the customs building that we completely ignored when they went off. After boarding the bus, we stopped at the green gate (the tourist departure gate) and an officer got on and once again checked the landing cards.

Boris at the Gateway of India, Mumbai.
©Jean Janssen

We drove through the fort area and came to the Gateway of India, an iconic landmark erected in 1932. The park outside is inundated with vendors and families, but the beautiful banyan trees are what capture your attention. Looking towards the harbor, you are struck by the size of the massive Gateway arch and number of colorful boats in the water. After the opportunity to take a few pictures, we went to the waterside of the Gateway to board our boat.

The Gateway of India from the water with some of the colorful boats to Elephanta Island.
©Jean Janssen

What followed was a 45-minute ordeal with 4 men yelling to different boats-to come in, not come in, dock here, don’t dock here, etc.-while we waited in the sun. We had been the first group to arrive, but the CME group had left first and had been the first expected. The boat that docked was too large for our group. After all three of the smaller tour groups arrived, CME finally showed up. Then it was determined that the large boat was too high a step given the tide level so another boat was sandwiched between it and the dock. Then the CME group boarded the large boat through the smaller one anchored. This situation was not going to be good for Boris whose greatest difficulty in touring since the accident has been getting in and out of small moving boats and tenders.

As expected, it was very difficult for Boris when we finally did our pass through from boat to boat. One of the bumper tires he was expected to plant his foot on gave way. It was pretty scary, but we finally got underway to the island.

The Elephant statute from which Elephanta Island gets its name is now displayed outside the Mumbai City Museum.
©Jean Janssen

Elefanta Island is named for the elephant statute that was found there. The statute is now displayed outside the Cultural museum in Mumbai. Dropped in transit, it had to be rebuilt. Today, there are actually no elephant carvings (expect the elephant head on one of the popular Hindu gods) on the island. It is known for the impressive Hindu shrines carved into the rocks. There are several islands with religious rock carvings, but mostly with Buddhist depictions. Depending on who was in power, different oppressed groups built their shrines off the mainland.

Aboard the train for the long ride down the pier to Elephanta Island.
©Jean Janssen

Depending on the conditions, it is a 60-90 minute ride to the island from the Gateway of India. We got a little sea spray near the island, but it was otherwise a smooth ride. Once course when we tied up, we had to pass to multiple boats to reach the dock, another tough journey for Boris. There is a long concrete dock to reach the island, but there is also a small gage train you can ride. We all hopped on and I was reminded of the miniature train near the Hermann Park Zoo in Houston. Upon reaching the land, we were immediately approached by vendors. We traveled down the newly paved sidewalk to the climb up to the caves. (I know it was newly paved because we actually saw the work in progress.)

Sedan chairs bearers waiting for a customer on Elephanta Island, India.
©Jean Janssen

The 130 widely spaced stairs and platforms pose quite a challenge. Like most of the guests, I chose to make the climb. A few, like Boris, wisely chose the sedan chairs. It was grueling, but not of nearly the length of our climb at the Great Wall of China. Of course it was incredibly hot which was the main problem. I am not sure how some of the older guests made it. Riding a sedan chair posed other problems, as the bearers constantly asked you for tips, complained of your weight, and tried to stop midway up saying it was as far as they go. Make sure you don’t pay them until the very top where there is no more stairs and you see the security building for the caves.

Along the staircase on Elephanta Island, India.
©Jean Janssen

There are vendors all along the staircase up. Mercifully, many have added coverings in some places to help reduce the heat. Do your shopping (if any) on the way down. Once you get to the top, women with water jars on their heads approach you for a picture. Unless you want to pay, politely refuse. There are also lots of mischievous monkeys in this area, so watch your belongs. They will also snatch water bottles and snacks.

Cave entrance, Elephanta Island.
©Jean Janssen

The cave entrance draws you in and you are immediately stunned by the size, detail, and preservation of the shrines. I would not have understood much of what was going on, but are guide gave us a detailed description of each panel. It was much cooler in the caves that enjoy a wonderful ocean breeze. The good news is that we were the first group to arrive on the island besides the Indian tourists so we probably had the best opportunity to see each shrine.

Elephanta Caves dedicated to Shiva. off Mumbai, India.
©Jean Janssen

Some of the Indian tourists were as curious about us, as we were in the shrines. It had already been determined that Boris was the rock star. One group asked Boris to pose in pictures with their family at the Gateway of India. Our guide said that it was the children’s summer vacation so many of the people visiting were from the countryside where they rarely, if ever, see western tourists. (The experience reminded me of our visit in T Square in Beijing where visitors to Mao’s tomb from the Chinese provinces looked at us like we were aliens; they would not even acknowledge a greeting.) The curious Indian families were actually quite friendly, unlike the Indian urbanites who were unfriendly and disrespectful to women.

Elephanta Caves dedicated to Shiva, a Hindu deity.
©Jean Janssen

I love the caves and as a bonus the walk down was not difficult. I followed Boris down. He was riding; I was walking. I wanted to be able to get a picture. On the way down, they carried him backwards. They had stopped midway up with him, but he had insisted on the full ride. This time they didn’t even try not to take him all the way down. We got a cool drink at a bar at the bottom and waited for the rest of our group. Cows and goats roamed freely among the visitors. As most of you know, cows are sacred in India and are not disturbed. You’ll even see them on the streets of Mumbai.

The Rock Star on his ride down in the sedan chair on Elephanta Island, India.
©Jean Janssen

Apparently a statute of a ram would have usually been placed in this center area at a Hindu Shrine. This Indian man took its place. Elephanta Island.
©Jean Janssen

With more people waiting for the train, it was a scramble to get on, but Boris could not have made that walk. Fortunately there were no pass-through and we were able to board the boat directly from the dock. The sea was rougher, so our guide suggested riding on the top to avoid getting wet. The steps up were treacherous, so Boris wisely chose to stay downstairs. I enjoyed the cool breeze and the receding sun from the top of the boat and enjoyed a visit with a couple from Minnesota.

On the boat ride in, we got a wonderful view of the Gateway of India and the Taj Mahal Palace Hotel next door. The iconic hotel was built in 1903 after an Indian was refused accommodations in a local European-run hotel and he decided to build his own, even more impressive hotel. It was the site of terrorist attacks in 2008 and is now under heavy security. Taj hotels are now a chain and we had snacks at one in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

Building the sidewalk for us as we arrive. Beside these women were the men chiseling the stone into bricks. Elephanta Island, India
©Jean Janssen

Back to the boat for our last evening on board…

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged elephanta caves, Elephanta Island, Gateway of India, Mumbai | 1 Comment

Goa, India “Pearl of the Orient”

Posted on May 1, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Basilica of the Bom Jesus, Old Goa, India.
©Jean Janssen

Today was are in docked in the Indian state of Goa, the smallest in terms of area and the fourth smallest in terms of population. It is on the west coast of India on the Arabian Sea. It was ruled by a succession of Hindu kings until conquered by the Muslims who held it for 10 years. The Portuguese assumed control in 1510 and stayed until 1962, 15 years after India gained independence from Great Britain.

Basilica of the Bom Jesus, Old Goa, India
©Jean Janssen

Shortly after the arrival of the Portuguese, Jesuit and Franciscan missionaries arrived and began converting the local inhabitants to Christianity. It is the beautiful churches of Old Goa that we will be visiting today. Old Goa was the original capital until the Portuguese moved the seat of government to Panjim (or Panaji in Hindu) in 1759 due to cholera and other epidemics that swept Old Goa.

Beautiful teak wood pulpit in the Basilica of the Bom Jesus.
©Jean Janssen

We once again have a landing card, a new one, but the departure was a little less onerous; I presume because this is not our first port in India. We are docked at Marmugoa, a natural harbor. We take a bus from the harbor to Old Goa by following the southern bank of the Mandovi River and then crossing north at a narrow section of the river. Marmugoa is Goa’s only year-round operational port.

We were traveling at low tide and we saw women out in the shallow sections of the river collecting shellfish. The Goans use lots of spices, but the food is not spicy (hot). The spices are ground in the flesh of a coconut and mixed with seafood. This state’s economy is not dominated by agriculture. 40% of the Goans work in tourism; mining and related activities are also popular forms of employment. The main tourist season is winter when the weather is warm and dry (about 19 C). Goa welcomes mostly domestic tourist. Goa has an 87% literacy rate, second only to Kerala.

The teak wood, gold-leafed altar piece features the baby Jesus and St. Ignatius Loyola, founder of the Jesuit Order.
©Jean Janssen

There are eight remaining churches in Old Goa, two of which still have regular masses. We are visiting three of the churches. Our first stop is the Basilica Bom Jesus where the remains of Saint Francis Xavier are enshrined. St. Francis Xavier was born in Spain and along with St. Ignatius of Loyola founded the Jesuit order. St. Xavier based his missionary work out of Goa and was much beloved. He died in China at age 46 and the Goans requested that his remains be returned to them.

The relics are encased in airtight glass and silver and are displayed high on a side altar. There is a ceremony every 10 years and the case is lowered and taken to the Cathedral across the street (which is larger). The relics are displayed for 45 days from November to January in commemoration of his death on December 3. When the shrine was last lowered in 2004, two million pilgrims came to pay their respects.

The relics of St. Francis Xavier at the Basilica of the Bom Jesus in Old Goa, India.
©Jean Janssen

The churches at Goa were named World Heritage Sites in 1986. Although the Goan churches are now maintained by the archeological society, seven Jesuit Priests still conduct services at the Basilica and the Cathedral. The Jesuits hold a special place in my heart with Rocky’s attendance at the Jesuit High School and the many relationships I formed while working with the Mothers’ Club. My visit was quite moving.

The Cathedral of St. Catherine in Old Goa, India. The remains of St. Francis Xavier are brought to the Cathedral for viewing during the 45-day period each 10 when they are lower from the side altar at the Basilica of the Bom Jesus.
©Jean Janssen

While the Basilica, with its gold leaf over teak wood, took 9 years to build (consecrated in 1605), the Cathedral of Saint Catherine, completed in 1642, took 90 years to complete. It is just across the street. The richly gold-leafed main altar panels depict the life and beheading of St. Catherine. There are 15 altars and seating for 5,000 in the Cathedral. It is one of the largest churches in Asia. Some of the chapels featured preserved frescos. There is also a canopied seat for the Archbishop and box seating for the nobility.

The beautiful grounds at the Cathedral of St. Cajean, Old Goa, India. ©Jean Janssen

The beautiful grounds at the Church of St. Cajetan
Old Goa, India.
©Jean Janssen

While the Spanish Jesuits built the Basilica, the Portuguese financed the building of the Cathedral. Behind the Cathedral is the Archeological Museum housed in the former Franciscan Monastery. Our third stop was the was the Church of St. Cajetan, built by Italian Friars in the second half of the 17^th century and modeled after St. Peter’s in Rome. It no longer operates as a church and certainly did have more of a museum field. The soaring ceiling and dome were impressive. The site also has beautiful grounds.

Viceroy Arch, Old Goa, India.
©Jean Janssen

On the way back to the bus, we spotted the viceroy arch where the new Portuguese leader would enter the city. As we left Old Goa we saw evidence of the city walls that once surrounded the city. We drove along the Manbor River to Panaji, Goa’s new capital. The River has two islands in it where the Portuguese nobility had formerly made their home. People still live there and there is regular ferry service. We are driving along the backside of the houses as the primary entrance is too the River. Many have their own private dock. Our guide compared it to Venice.

We saw bamboo sticks in the river that hold nets to catch fish that are collected at low tide. There are mangroves that can grow in salt water and salt “making” is practiced here. We crossed a bridge built by slave labor during Portuguese times that connects Old Goa to the new capital of Panaji. Throughout Panaji we saw examples of Portuguese colonial architecture (like we saw last year when we visited Portugal) with the familiar roofs, porches, and balconies.

Riverboat Casino in Panaji, Goa, India. The bamboo sticks in front are used to attach a net for fishing.
©Jean Janssen

Soaring interiors of the Church of St. Cajetan in Old Goa, India. The church is modeled after St. Peter’s in Rome.
©Jean Janssen

There is a river promenade over three miles long. Gambling is not allowed on land, so all along the river we saw casinos on the water. There are high taxes to be paid by locals to reach the floating casinos. This is meant to discourage locals; the casinos are intended for tourists. Goa’s many beaches also serve to attract tourists. There are also lower taxes on alcohol in Goa than in other Indian states.

We learned a few assorted facts from our guide as we made our way back to the ship. It is illegal to demand a dowry, but they are still common in Goa. A dowry is often in cash and kind, with appliances being a typical item. All the gifts are displayed on the eve of the marriage, first at the bride’s home and then (after being carried over) at the groom’s home. The bridal gown is also displayed prior to the wedding.

The gold-leafed altar panels depicting St. Catherine’s life and death, the chandelier under which St. Francis Xavier’s relics are placed, and the private box for the nobility all in St. Catherine’s Cathedral in Old Goa, India.

Frescoed archway of a chapel in St. Catherine’s Cathedral, Old Goa, India.
©Jean Janssen

The Indian freedom fighters fought hard to earn their independence from Portugal, finally driving them out in a single day with the assistance of the Indian army. I spotted a monument to the freedom fighters dedicated in 1988 in the port city of Marmugao on our way back to the ship.

We ended the day with a second Chef’s Table dinner with the Barnes Family back on the ship. Tomorrow we port in Mumbai (Bombay), our last destination before leaving the Azamara Journey.

Another bright red beard. I learned this is not natural or symbolic, just an act of vanity.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, domestic travel | Tagged Basilica of the Bom Jesus, Goa, India, Old Goa, Panaji | Leave a comment

Sea Days on the Azamara Journey AKA Boris and the Showgirl

Posted on April 30, 2013 by travelbynatasha

sunrise on the Azamara Journey.
©Jean Janssen

Ah, sea days. Some cruisers don’t like them. But in my opinion, sea days are what put the vacation in a cruise. Otherwise, you will just go home more tired and sunburned than when you left. We have quite a few sea days (6) on the Spice Route on the Azamara Journey.

I learn a lot of things on sea days. (On ships that have them) the self-service laundry rooms are the place to get the most gossip-per one of the ship’s officers. We like the enrichment series lectures that usually take place on these days. Sometimes they are educational dealing with the history, economy, and culture of the places we are visiting or purely fun like discussing the investigation around Marilyn Monroe’s death. You can learn how to play bridge, built a ship, play darts, surf, or ice skate (among other things).

Considered adding pearls to my pool bag but decided against it.
©Jean Janssen

I am usually a pool princess on sea days, but with temperatures in the 90s F (30s C) my sun exposure has been limited. The breeze just isn’t enough to compensate for the high temps. It’s a pity too because the Azamara Journey has wonderful cushions on their lounge chairs, so it would be a perfect place to spend an afternoon or take a nap. It is casual of course, although I did see one woman go into the pool wearing her pearls. (I saw her at the pool three times and she was always wearing her pearls.

Charisa is one of the singers on the Azamara Journey. She used to perform at Hollywood Studios and The Magic Kingdom at Walt Disney World. She ran many of the trivia games that Boris attended. He liked to refer to her as the showgirl.
©Jean Janssen

Boris, of course is playing trivia. He keeps comparing himself to Tiger Woods. He is doing well again and has found a soul mate in Angela from Birmingham, England. Between the two of them, they usually get a perfect score. I am really not sure what the rest of the team does; no one actually asks them their opinion. Charisa, a young blonde who is also one of the singers/dancers on the ship, runs some of the games. When she told Boris that she would like to be on his team and that he needed to come to the show (which she probably tells many of the guests), he came running to tell me that we had to go or Charisa (who he refers to as a showgirl) would be upset. He had the decency to blush when I told the Barnes that story.

Of course it wouldn’t be a sea day without the extra special food options like Tea Time and Gala Brunches. We also signed up for a Chef’s Table Experience on one of the early sea days. It is a seven-course dinner with wine pairing organized by one of the sommeliniers and it limited to 10 guests. A senior officer hosts this specialty dinner. The head chef visits your table at the beginning of the evening and the specialty restaurant chef comes to introduce each course. Our dinner had an Italian theme for the food and wine pairings (although we began with a champagne). We had a fabulous time and made some new friends, Frank and Janet, at the dinner.

Frank and Janet are from just north of London; they are fun and funny. They hunt for sun or a pool in each of our ports. They always find the spot with the best spa deals. Frank, who is a judge, told us a wonderful story of going to get a new pet. When he picked out his new kittens, the 40^ish attractive woman owner thought she knew him, and he her. By the time he went back to pick up the kittens a few days later after the kittens had gotten their shots, he had remembered where he knew her from. Apparently she had too. The money/kitten exchange was very quick. No one mentioned the first meeting when she had been in from of him for solicitation.

Theo, on the left, was one of the senior officers on the Amazara Journey who served gelato on the pool deck to guests. There is a lot of interaction between the officers and guests, the most I have ever seen on a cruise ship.
©Jean Janssen

You could also add lots of toppings to your ice cream and have it on a cone or on top of a waffle.
©Jean Janssen

At the dinner we also met the ship’s Chief Financial Officer, Theo from Greece. He was a wonderful dinner companion and it has been fun running into him around the ship since the meeting. I have never seen another cruise line where there is so much interaction with the senior officers. If you are in the line’s past guests program, the senior officers hosted and served you at a champagne brunch and you see them milling with the quests at the frequent cocktail parties. All the guests see them when they host an Officers’ Gelateria, serving ice cream and toppings out on the pool deck. Today, they are hosting a lunchtime bar-b-que. I had to give Theo a hard time; I questioned whether he was actually in the food service department after he served me food both the second and third times I ran into him.

In addition to the senior officer interaction, another way Azamara distinguishes itself is with the bonuses given to their past passengers. Besides the usual cocktail parties, there was a Champagne Brunch, coffee tasting, and wine and cheese party. I love the coupons-two bags of free laundry-cleaned and pressed-and almost 8 hours of free internet time between the two of us.

Our friends from Birmingham (Mosley), England, the Barnes Family. Mom Angela instructs and grades exams, the equivalent of of SATs or ACTs in the US. Son Barnaby is a detective sergeant (soon to be Inspector) in the Birmingham Police Force; Dad Joseph is a retired University Dean. They all helped Boris to victory in trivia and were wonderful lunch and dinner companions for us throughout the cruise. This was taken at one of the special Chef’s Table nights we attended with them.
©Jean Janssen

One of the things I have come to enjoy about these smaller ships and a longer cruise, is that you get to make friends and run into them on the ship throughout the voyage. We have frequently asked and been asked to join others for dinner. The passengers on this ship are very friendly, down to earth, and overwhelmingly English-speakers- although not necessarily from the USA. In fact I think the Aussies are the largest group (followed by the Brits). Today when the captain came on to make the noon announcement, he apologized to the Australian guests he was waking up with the PA. Apparently, the Aussies had kept the disco/bar open for a record number of hours last night/this morning. (It doesn’t close until the last guest leaves.)

We have made friends from all over the world and got heard some wonderful stories. There can of course be disadvantages to the small ship as well. One couple told us of being propositioned by a swinger couple one of the first nights on the cruise and the great lengths they now go to avoid the couple on the ship. It would be hard to beat that story.

Ah well, the pool calls. I am going to squeak in some time before the next cocktail party. Natasha does have a rough life…

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Azamara, Azamara Journey | Leave a comment

India Finally!! Kochi, the “Queen of the Arabian Sea”

Posted on April 27, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Chinese Fishing Nets, Fort Kochi, India
©Jean Janssen

Car ferry at Fort Kochi, India. Note all the cycles on the right waiting to get on.
©Jean Janssen

Boy what a hassle it is to get into India for American, Brits, and Australians. First we had to get a visa before we left home; then, we had to personally present ourselves to pick up our passport on the ship and obtain a landing card and a secondary card. Then the form was messed up and everyone on the ship had to redo it last night. Then we once again had to present ourselves this morning, turn in the revised form, and leave with the landing card. Then they checked the landing card three times before we got on the bus. Ridiculous.

A performance at the dock to welcome us to India, Kerala, and Fort Kochi.
©Jean Janssen

The ride in was under rough skies. I woke to the sound of thunder. Fortunately, the rain had cleared by the time we got to the pier and stayed clear for our tour. Musicians using traditional instruments greeted us on the dock. They took us by bus to the tourist dock on this man-made island for the harbor boat ride. This land mass was created during the British era when a deeper seaport was needed. There is a toll to enter the island.

A Catholic Basilica seen from our tourist boat in the Kochi Harbor.
©Jean Janssen

We are in the Indian state of Kerala (meaning coconut tree), one of 28 states in the country of India. Kerala is on the southwestern coast and is one of India’s smallest states. There is a higher percentage of Christians (21%), mostly Catholics, than in other parts of India. Kerala is a melting pot, with peoples of various faiths living in harmony. It is one of the more prosperous states in India and has the highest percentage of middle class families in India. Wages are higher in Kerala than in other parts of India. Kerala has a literacy rate of 97%. Education is free up to age 15. From age 3, children are taught Hindi, English, and the official state language.

Public ferry, Kochi, India
©Jean Janssen

Significantly, its population has more women than men, unique in India due to the selective death of females among some segments of the Indian population. The communist party is very strong is Kerala. A communist was elected to office in 1957 and communists have been in and out of office in the state since that time.

Our tourist ferry boat. Kochi, India
©Jean Janssen

In the morning after we docked I had seen several boats I assumed were ferries headed in the direction we came. These were actually our touring boats. They were all a little different with “handmade” touches; all were rustic and worn. I felt bugs biting my legs. However, our tourist boat was certainly a step up from the public ferries I saw leaving from the dock over. Kochi, or Cochin to use the colonial name, has a natural harbor. There are 18 islands in this area. You look out to the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats. As we rode around the harbor, we saw dolphins. Cochin has the distinction of having had the first container cranes in India. (We see them in all the major ports now. In Colombo, Sri Lanka they were right next to our balcony.)

Named fishing boats at Kochi, India. Note one is St. Michael. The other has a picture of Jesus. Names are reflective of the owner’s religion.
©Jean Janssen

Colorful fishing boats, Kochi (Cochin), India.
©Jean Janssen

We passed several spots where the fishing boats were anchored, icehouses, conveyor belt loading stations, and a market area. Each of the fishing boats has a name that indicates the religion of the owner. All are colorfully decorated. The highlight was the view of the Chinese fishing nests. It is outdated technology, but requires no mechanization or fuel (only manpower). They only work at high tide. It takes 5-6 men to raise and lower the nets. The large net is placed in the water for 3-5 minutes, raised, and the fish removed. They catch mullet, shrimp, and crab in the nets.

This Indian man near one of the public ferry piers had the reddest beard I have ever seen.
©Jean Janssen

While we toured the harbor, our guide shared lots of information about India, particularly Kerala. One of his best stories concerned his own arranged marriage. Most marriages are still arranged; marriage is concerned more than the union of two people. It is the union of two families. Dowries are illegal in India, but still practiced. There are three methods of going about the arranged marriage. One, you give your CV to a marriage bureau and astrologist are consulted. Two, you can hire a professional marriage broker. Three, you can put an ad in the newspaper. On Sundays, there are 6 or 7 pages of ads. Our guide said some are quite funny. “Woman looking for a husband with clean habits.”

Repairing fishing nets. Fort Kochi, India.
©Jean Janssen

Our guide married at 32, quite late by Indian standards; the average age of marriage is 18 for girls and 21 for men. When he hit 30, his parents spent the next 2 years taking him to appointments every Sunday. If the family was generous, you have a 5-minute chat alone with the “candidate”.

In St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi, India. There are ancient Portuguese and Dutch tombs in the church.
©Jean Janssen

He said sometimes you liked the girl and she liked you, but the astrology was not right so the match fell through. He said there are some love marriages, Valentines’ Day is celebrating, and dating does exist (you go to another city and hope your parents don’t find out). However, even in a love match, astrologers are still consulted.

Divorce rates are low in India because there is nowhere for the woman to go if she divorces. The divorce rate in Kerala is higher than in other parts for India because the women are educated, have jobs, and feel they have options.

St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi, India
©Jean Janssen

After our touring boat ride, we docked at Fort Kochi (Cochin) to see this historical seaport, the first European colonial settlement in India. The Portuguese remained a stronghold here from 1503 to 1663. It was later occupied by the Dutch and still later the British. St. Frances Church was Catholic under the Portuguese, then Dutch Reformed, and later Anglican during the British occupancy.

Upon leaving the dock, we were immediately set upon by vendors. (We had actually seen a few at the tourist dock where we boarded.) They followed us down. We got a land view of the Chinese fishing nets and walked through the gauntlet of stalls to St. Francis Church. Fortunately, the vendors couldn’t follow us into the churchyard.

fans in St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi, India.
©Jean Janssen

St. Francis Church has these wonderful cloth fans operated by manpower from outside. Inside were Portuguese and Dutch tombs (on different sides of the church) and even a plaque commemorating Queen Elizabeth II visit in 1997. It is also the site of the original tomb of Vasco da Gama.

Kathakali performance, traditional Buddhist ritual,
Kochi, India. The chanter appears in the middle of the two “actors”.
©Jean Janssen

Our last tour stop was at Greenix Village dedicated to preserving Kerala’s art and culture. Our tour groups saw a private performance of Kathakali theater, a Buddhist ritual. A full performance may begin at 6 pm and continue until 2 or 3 the following morning. We were given a demonstration on the various facial and eye expressions and also the language (done as sign language). The heavily made-up performers presented a segment of a full play. We saw two actors (in a full play there are 7-10 characters), two musicians, and a chanter. The muscle coordination of the face was extraordinary and the eye movements equally challenging. Students begin the study at age 8-10. It normally takes 15 years to learn the complex performance techniques. It is a traditional art form from the 18^th century. Kathakali Theater reminded Boris and I of the Chinese Opera Performance we saw with Rocky in Beijing.

Boris and I with one of the actors after the Kathakali performance.

In St. Francis Church, Fort Kochi, India
©Jean Janssen

On the way back, I asked our guide about the local tok-toks. I had noted that all the tok-toks-or “poor man’s taxi” as he called it-are the same color. He told me that commercial vehicles had to have gold and black license plates. Licenses for private vehicles are black and white. The tok-toks had adopted the license color for the entire vehicle. This color combination is unique to the state of Kerala in India. (Black and gold are also the school colors of that famous Texas institution, Southwestern University.) Public buses are red with 25% of the seats reserved for ladies and 10% of the seats reserved for the elderly.

Our bus was stopped at the harbor entrance and a policeman entered to check everyone’s landing card. It was checked again when we boarded the ship. Come on…really?

Chinese Fishing Nets, Kochi, India.
©Jean Janssen

Back on board, we have champagne chilling in an ice bucket in our room. The sun is setting just behind our ship so we will be able to enjoy the sunset from our terrace. Welcome to India, Natasha.

sunset at Kochi, India.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Chinese Fishing Nets, Cochin, Fort Cochin, Fort Kochi, Greenix Village, Kathakali, Kochi, St. Francis Church | 3 Comments

Galle, Sri Lanka

Posted on April 26, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Stilt fisherman in the Indian Ocean at Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Sri Lanka’s new Parliament building from 1985. The old one is a British colonial building across from Galle Face Green.
©Jean Janssen

Today is our second day in Sri Lanka and we are going south to Galle by bus. A new toll road has been completed in the last year that significantly shortens the trip. (Toll road time 1 hour, 11 minutes; getting to the toll road 45 minutes). While Colombo is the commercial capital of the country, the political capital is 14 km outside in a suburb that has grown so much since the capital was installed here in 1985 that you can’t tell where one ends and the other begins. As it developed, they did allow for 4 lanes of traffic, rather than the usual one each way. There are lane markers, but they are totally ignored.

The ultra modern service center on the new tollway between Colombo and Galle, Sri Lanka completed within the last year.
©Jean Janssen

The maximum speed on the toll way is 110 km. If you are caught speeding, you are not chased down, but the policeman calls the tollbooth. When you exit the toll way you must pay the ticket. We saw several policemen with speed guns and giving tickets. Motorists also flashed their lights at oncoming motorists to let them know there was a speed check ahead. (My daddy taught me this and when I was younger it was quite common for Texas motorists to flash their lights when a highway patrol car was up ahead.)

Lotus flower, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

We had a terrific guide who used the trip out to provide some interesting information about Sri Lanka. I’ll share the highlights. The National Sport is volleyball, but cricket is the most popular. The blue water lily is the national flower. Smoking in public is totally outlawed and you will be given if seen; no ads for cigarettes are permitted; and the cigarette package must display a picture of a cancer patient. Children receive a free education from ages 5-14; the country’s literacy rate is 92%. From age 5, children are taught either Sinhalese or Tamil and English. In the 6^th grade, you begin learning the 3^rd language-Sinhalese or Tamil.

I was just able to catch these water buffalo (right corner) from the bus window. They are headed into a rubber tree forest.
©Jean Janssen

On the drive to Galle we saw all the major cash crops growing near the highway-tea, rubber, oil palm, rice, cinnamon, bananas, and coconuts. Water buffalos are still used in cultivation, but the industry is becoming more mechanized. We saw many water buffalos along the highway, mostly grazing, and one in town pulling a trash cart. There are 10,000 man-made lakes in Sri Lanka to supply water for rice cultivation. Rice and curry are the food staples. There are no canned or frozen fruits or vegetables; all are fresh. There are no enough cows to keep up with the demand for milk in Sri Lanka; powdered milk is imported from New Zealand, Australia, and Denmark.

Family out for the holiday in the Dutch Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

The government has promoted population control and the number of children couples are having has been reduced from 6-12 to 1-3 in a single generation. While the cities are crowded, the country homes we saw were relatively large, widely spaced, and quite colorful. The average age for marriage is 28 for men and 26 for women. The divorce rate is 10-15 % and 50% of marriages are arranged. Dowries are no longer common and the caste system is no longer part of Sri Lankan life (except in the Tamil communities). The use of all white uniforms in school was instituted to remove caste distinctions. An astrologer is consulted for the timing of all major life events. When a child is born the date and time of birth dictates the child’s name (as determined by the astrologer).

Former village life home in Sri Lanka. The mother and children stayed inside while father slept on porch. Note that porch is 3/4 of the home. At the Martin Wickramasinghe Museum of Folk Culture in Koggala, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Just before reaching Galle, we stopped in Koggala Sri Lanka at the Martin Wickramasinghe Museum of Folk Culture. Having written 95 books (7 or those in English), Martin is considered the “Shakespeare of Sri Lanka”. He was completely self-taught. The museum is found in the village where he grew up and his birth home is open for touring. In separate buildings, the interior exhibits included artifacts used by a Sri Lankan family in everyday life. My favorites were the entertainment pieces like the masks; some were the “supernatural figures” used for rituals. Others were the “natural” ones, like the red-faced man that the guide told us represented a sunburned European. There is also a wonderful puppet collection.

Stilt fisherman in the Indian Ocean, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Our next stop was to see the stilt fisherman along the beach. This is the only place in the world they can be seen. Usually they have finished by this point in the day, but they stayed for us (and probably a significant donation from the cruise line). It was very unique. They would proudly show their catch, probably made several hours before our arrival. I noted that most of what they showed us was very small and looked like aquarium fish or the ones I see while scuba diving on a coral reef.

Beach at Galle with the old Dutch Fort in the Background at the Lighthouse Hotel, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

After the fisherman, we continued our drive along the beautiful beaches along the Indian Ocean where there is (what our guide described as) unplanned tourism. We saw lots of surfers out and people enjoying a holiday by the beach. The southeast portion of Sri Lanka is where the tsunami hit in 2004 and we saw evidence of some places were reconstruction has not taken place. In one hour, 50,000 people were killed. There is now an alarm system in the Indian Ocean to provide warnings. Formerly schools were placed near the beaches to catch the cool breeze. Luckily the tsunami hit on Boxing Day (December 26), a holiday and the children were not in school. The school buildings are now all at inland locations. Ironically, the fishermen out that day were not hurt; they rode the wave.

Staircase at the Lighthouse Hotel designed by Jeffery Bower in Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

We passed the Dutch Fort and went to the Lighthouse Hotel designed by Jeffery Bower for our fabulous buffet lunch. The stir-fried (and freshly caught) seafood was my favorite. I also tried several different curries. The hotel has a lovely setting right on the beach with the waves crashing up against the rocks. We had a wonderful seat by the window. One of the design highlights was the intricate metalwork staircase railing that caught your eye the moment you walked into the hotel. It is part of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World collection. After I finished, I had time to wander around to take photographs and talk to one of the friendly tok-tok drivers in the car park.

The Dutch Reformed Church built in 1755 at the Dutch Fort in Galle, Sri Lanka. The pulpit and organ are original.
©Jean Janssen

After lunch we toured the Dutch Fort (actually visible from the hotel), beginning with the Old Dutch Church with the original pulpit and organ from the 1755. The ramparts and many of the buildings survived the 2004 tsunami. The stones in the graveyard the tall mature trees were evidence that the ramparts had provided protection. From the church we walked around to see the ancient Dutch Warehouse and the city gate with a British coat of arms on one side and a Dutch coat of arms on the other. We saw the section of the fort walls originally built by the Portuguese in 1510. The Dutch added the rest of the coral and granite ramparts.

The old Dutch Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Coat of arms at a city gate in the Old Dutch Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka. The Dutch coat of arms is one side and the British is on the other.
©Jean Janssen

We walked down past more beautiful trees and the district court to where the rampart access opened up again. As it is a holiday, there were many families picnicking along the walls. It was not until I climbed up to the lighthouse and looked down that I saw the many Sri Lankan families on the beach enjoying the holiday. It was hot and I would have loved to join them. I continued walking down the fort walls to a lookout point just above the rocks. Below, boys on holiday had made their way out to the rocks and were enjoying the attention and their triumph. The ethnic and religious mix of the people was obvious from their dress, but all seemed to enjoy the day in harmony.

Sri Lankan families celebrate a Poya (full moon) Holiday at the beach on the Indian Ocean. Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Gypsy snake charmer at the clocktower at the Dutch Fort at Galle, Sri Lanka. He has a cobra, python, or dressed monkey for you to have a picture with.
©Jean Janssen

The bus took us to the final stop in the Dutch fort with a view of the clock tower and other sections of the ramparts. At the bottom a gypsy played his horn for a cobra in a basket. If that was not to your taste, he also had a python he would wrap around your neck for a picture or a small, dressed monkey that was happy to climb up on you for a photo. His partner passed around the basket. I reminded me of our trip to Marrakesh, Morocco of just a year ago this month.

From this vantage point, we could see the newly constructed International Cricket Field and look out of the rooftops of the centuries-old buildings inside the fort walls. We could also see the storm that was coming in and boarded our bus for the return ride back to the ship just before the rains came. Boris wasn’t up to climbing this section of the rampart after a full day of walking, but it wasn’t like he didn’t see anything. Two gypsies were arrested and the third came up to the bus to get on and sell her palm-reading services.

Rooftops and flowers as seen from the clock tower at the Dutch Fort in Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Along the rampart, Dutch Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

We had a nice ride back with only one stop at the newly constructed rest area with a food court, tea shop, and souvenirs. The clean, western-style restrooms were appreciated. Everyone was back on the bus on time except for one person we waited 15 minutes for who was shopping-Boris. He hates people being late, so this was most unlike him. I was on the bus so I got to hear what everyone had to say about it.

Natasha along the ramparts at the Dutch Fort in Galle, Sri Lanka.

We caught up with our friends from Birmingham, the Barnes, who had been to the elephant orphanage and rode out on one of the old British-style trains. They had a good day. They enjoyed tea on the train and got to see the elephants’ bath. We met them at the bar and joined them for dinner. Then we all went back to our rooms to watch the ship leave the harbor as we departed Sri Lanka. (Like us they have a fantail room on the back of the ship. They are one floor up, just above us.) Just as the pilot left the boat, it started to drizzle. For the second time today, we just beat the rain. Another country to add to my list; I think that is 94.

Dutch Fort, Galle, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

This is where you get those fresh fruits and vegetables. Love the twist with the bus in the background.
©Jean Janssen

Dutch Warehouse from 1700’s in Galle, Sri Lanka. Everyone knows that Natasha likes taking pictures of windows and doors.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Galle, Koggala, Lighthouse Hotel, Martin Wickramasinghe Museum of Folk Culture, Sri Lanka | 3 Comments

Colombo, Sri Lanka

Posted on April 25, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Statues of buddha at the Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

At the Gangaramaya Temple in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

After three straight days at sea, we docked at Colombo, Sri Lanka. Colombo is the main port and largest city in Sri Lanka. We had breakfast on our terrace overlooking the cranes of the busy harbor. We tour the city today and head to Galle to the south tomorrow. The ship will remain in port overnight.

Sri Lankan dancers performed for us on the pool deck of the Azamara Journey.
©Jean Janssen

Sri Lanka (Ceylon during the British occupation) is an island once part of the Indian subcontinent. About 75% of the population is Sinhalese, primarily Buddhist, concentrated in the central, western, and southern parts of the island. The largest minority group is the Tamils who occupy the north and eastern coast. The Tamils are primarily Hindu. A civil war between the Sinhalese and the Tamils lasted almost 30 years and did not end until 2009 when the government defeated the Liberation Tigers of Tamil Eelam (LTTE) after the death of their popular leader who promoted terrorism both at home and in India.

Sri Lankan flag with colors representing various ethnic groups. The backdrop is the Indian ocean.
©Jean Janssen

The island was part of the British Empire from 1796 until independence in 1948. Known as Ceylon for decades, the nation resorted its name of Sri Lanka in 1972. It adopted its current flag that year with the lion on a field of red with smaller orange and green bands along the side of the flag. The red represents the Sinhalese, the orange the Tamils, and the green the Muslim minority.

The port is right in the heart of things in Colombo, a city of two million. Heavy security and multiple checkpoints meant it took a while to get out of the port. We went past the area of the Dutch fort and into Pettah, the bazaar area of the city and one of the oldest districts in Colombo considered to be “the most ethnically mixed place in the country.” We saw churches, mosques, temples, and shrines. People were in every form of dress. The street signs-actually most signs for that matter-are written in three languages (Sinhalese on top, Tamil beneath that, and English on the Bottom).

Old City Hall in the Pettah district of Colombo, Sri Lanka. It was built in 1865 during the British era.
©Jean Janssen

Street in three languages. Sinhalese on top, then Tamil, then English. In Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

In Pettah, we first passed the Old City Hall built in 1865 during the British era; it is now mostly abandoned. Pettah was crowded with shoppers; the main bus terminal and train station are found in this area. Both public and private buses provide bus service. The trishaws, called tok-toks by the locals, were out in full force and like the street signs, offered their services in three languages. As it rains often in Sri Lanka, the local tok-tok is enclosed.

This whole family made it into one tok-tok designed for two passengers.
©Jean Janssen

Our guide commented that the crowd was very light and many of the shops were not open, as the country had just celebrated its new year last week. He compared the level of celebration to that of Christmas. We did see some parade facilities being dismantled. We passed the Manning Market with stall after stall of fruits and vegetables and the Federation of Self Employees Market, which offers mostly household goods.

New Lotus Theater Complex in Colombo, Sri Lanka donated by the Chinese government.
©Jean Janssen

We left Pettah and passed through an area of beautifully manicured streets and large buildings, colonial and new. In route to Independence Hall at Vihara Mahadevi Park, we passed two of the newest buildings we saw all day-the Lotus Theater Complex and the Bandaranaike Memorial International Conference Hall, both “outright gifts” from the Chinese Government. The conference hall’s sign was in four languages, with Chinese on the bottom. (I was reminded about Hugh Neighbour’s comments regarding the Chinese’s interest in maintaining a stronghold all along the spice route.)

Boris (in blue) makes his way down the stairs of Independence Hall in Colombo, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

I enjoyed the post carvings and the stone lions at the open-air Independence Hall. The popular park nearby is undergoing extensive renovations. The guide told us that for 30-year period of the civil war, government funds were used to support military operations. Now those resources are being redirected into infrastructure improvements.

National Museum in Colombo, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Our next stop was the National Museum that was founded in 1877 by British Governor Sir William Henry Gregory. The complex of buildings houses many artifacts and is a lovely setting with expansive lawns and beautiful, old trees. If you need the toilet, you’ll only find squatters unless you head around the corner to the area sign-posted “ Toilets-Foreign Guests” with western-style bathroom facilities. A statute of Queen Victoria commemorating her Diamond Jubilee is in the car park (parking lot).

Woman waiting for a bus along Galle Green. ©Jean Janssen

Woman waiting for a bus along Galle Face Green with the Indian Ocean and the port’s new breakwater in the background.
©Jean Janssen

If you were smart you skipped the museum bathrooms, as next we went to a refreshment stop at the Taj Sumauda Hotel, the loveliest hotel along the Oceanside promenade, Galle Face Green. We had sandwiches and cakes in the 19^th century- built Colombo Club at the hotel. Our British friend Angela was disappointed in the English fare, not the taste, but the missed opportunity to sample local delicacies. I had to agree.

Military exercises along Galle Face Green, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Galle Face Green, the park area and promenade along the Indian Ocean, is popular with the locals. Food and souvenir vendors have small structures that look bathing huts along some portions of the beach. Military exercises were taking place as we passed the Green and our guide used this opportunity to give us his spin on the Tamil Tigers and the civil war. They are justly proud of their preserved peace.

Three story Budda statutes. Note man head to realize size. At the Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka. ©Jean Janssen

Three story Buddha statutes. Note man head to realize size. At the Gangaramaya Temple, Colombo, Sri Lanka.
©Jean Janssen

Our last stop was the Buddhist Gangarmaya Temple. In addition to the areas of worship, the temple complex also has a library and museum that displays an “eclectic array of bejeweled and gilded gifts presented by devotees.” The three-story buddhas in the room we first entered were colorful and impressive. The only thing to mar our visit was the poor young male elephant chained on two-legs and housed in the temple yard. He could only sway side to side and his captivity seemed in stark contrast to the Buddhist principle of no cruelty to animals.

The Gangarmaya Temple is the site of the Navam Perahera on the February poya (full moon) day each year. It is a large celebration of colorful costumes and a parade of elephants. The full moon occurs twelve times a year and we will be in port tomorrow during poya. We’ll see how this monthly holiday affects our touring. There were a couple of other photo opts along the streets by the temple. An old tramcar sat right across the street and restoration work along one side of the temple had required tall scaffolding constructed primarily from bamboo.

This temple guest was helping feed the young male elephant chained in the temple yard. If only I could have freed him…
©Jean Janssen

Construction scaffolding made of bamboo.
©Jean Janssen

Headed back to the pier, we passed through the Old Dutch fort area. The Portuguese were the first foreign traders to arrive in the early 1500s, remaining in control of the coastal areas until the Dutch took over in the 17^th century. The Portuguese left like mark on Sri Lanka. In contrast, the Dutch influence is still seen in Colombo with the canals scattered throughout the city and the many buildings remaining near the port area.

Female member of the Sri Lankan dance troupe who performed on board.
©Jean Janssen

Back on board, there was a beautiful outdoor buffet with linen-covered tables scattered around the pool and the upper sun deck. Our evening’s entertainment was a performance by a local dance troupe with accompaniment by a wide variety of drums, shells, and brass instruments. The dances were unique, physical, and performed in beautiful colorful costumes. It was a lovely end to day one in Sri Lanka.

Sri Lankan dance troupe member wearing a ritual mask.
©Jean Janssen

Plate dancer balanced ten spinning plates at once, holding four on a stand in his mouth.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Colombo, Galle Face Green, Gangaramaya Temple, Pettah, Sri Lanka | 1 Comment

Penang, Malaysia

Posted on April 20, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia
©Jean Janssen

We docked early at Penang, Malaysia. Penang is an island in the Strait of Malacca with a good supply of fresh drinking water that made it a great transit point for traders. Even today, the fresh, soft water is plentiful. A local family’s monthly water bill is less than $1. In this hot, humid place, luckily showers are cheap.

Yap Temple along the “street of harmony” Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia.
©Jean Janssen

We had breakfast on our terrace before our city tour of Georgetown. We began at the Penang State Museum with a nice balance of history and culture in its exhibits. While the European inhabitants have left, the Chinese, Malay, and Indian families that remain in this area all influence the culture. On the street of harmony, we passed a Buddhist Temple, Hindu Shrine, and a mosque all in the span of two blocks. There are some lovely colonial buildings, but many are crumbling. The museum itself is in what remains of a school built in 1896, the other half destroyed by a bomb during the Japanese occupation.

The Penang State Museum, a former colonial school building partially destroyed by Japanese bombs during WWII
©Jean Janssen

Upstairs in the museum, you will find exhibits depicting the establishment of a British colony in 1786 when the island had few inhabitants. Captain Francis Light of the East India Company named the city for King George III. Fort Cornwallis was erected. (Americans will remember the namesake Cornwallis as the surrendering General at Yorktown.) While the countryside remained Malaysian, Georgetown attracted British, Chinese, and Indian traders, influences still seen today.

Chinese wedding night bed displayed in the Penang State Museum.
©Jean Janssen

The exhibits on the ground floor of the museum depict how these various cultural groups have shaped the area. There are particularly well-done displays regarding the wedding traditions of these cultures. In the Chinese culture, at age 12 girls were no longer allowed to go to school. They were kept out of sight at home and taught how to manage a household, particularly the finances. The home had small peepholes where girls would look outside to see what was happening without being seen. These young girls usually married at 15 or 16. Next door to the museum is St. George’s Church, the oldest Anglican Church in Southeast Asia.

If I hadn’t had an air-conditioned bus to take me around, I would have tried this Penang version of a trishaw with two wheels in the front and a third wheel on the bicycle on the back and decorated with flowers.
©Jean Janssen

Our bus next took us to the Pinang Peranakan Mansion. All along the streets were blue or white flags and we saw “demonstration” groups in similar colors in various areas near the civic buildings. We had docked on Nomination Day when candidates registered for the election to be held on May 5. The flags represented the various political parties.

The Mansion depicts a typical home of a rich Chinese family and their opulent lifestyle. In addition to recreating the customs and traditions of a Baba (father/husband) and Nyonya (mother/wife), the building itself is a mix of eclectic design with Chinese wood cravings and inlays, Scottish iron-works, and English tiles. It was built at the end of the 19^th Century.

Pinang Peranakan Mansion Georgetown, Penang, Malaysia
©Jean Janssen

Our guide pointed out the portrait of the original owner with his traditional Chinese dress and long necklace of pearls and jade. Although he was not born a nobleman, he sent so much money back to China that the Emperor elevated his station. This tin trader had done very well for himself since the longer the necklace, the higher the rank. When resented to the Emperor, you had to bow until your necklace touched the floor. So a longer necklace (higher rank) meant you did not have to stoop or “kowtow” so far. (Kowtow being one of those words I have understood since childhood from context without knowing the origin of the word.)

I loved the center courtyard, the glass panels in the upper windows, the ornate carvings, and the over-the-top furnishings. I snapped many pictures. Not surprisingly, my favorite piece was an old fashioned standing camera which I have never seen up close.

Courtyard in the Pinang Peranakan Mansion.
These four “sorority” girls in white dresses
had hired a photographer to take pictures of them in the Pinang Perkanakan Mansion
©Jean Janssen

Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi, Penang, Malaysia ©Jean Janssen

We next visited the Leong San Tong Khoo Kongsi. This is a cultural center for the Chinese Khoo Clan. When members of the clan came to Penang from China, the presented themselves at the Kongsi where the registered and were given help in finding a home and work. Subsequent births into the clan were registered here. There are several kongsi, representing various clans, in Georgetown. The center section is similar to a temple.

Khoo Kongsi, Penang Note the professional titles and the locations for the clan member's education. ©Jean Janssen

In a side room, registered members of clan demonstrated their educational backgrounds on golden plaques. Many of the Penang Chinese families sent their sons to be educated in England and later the United States and Australia. However when these professional men returned to Penang, they always married a local Chinese girl or one that was brought over from China. In the wedding portraits in the museum, the young men were often shown in western dress, but the young brides were always shown in traditional Chinese dress. There was only one exception where the bride was dressed in western fashion. Her bridal gown was described as “progressive”.

Registration book for Khoo clan members luckily not destroyed in the war. A computer backup is now kept. ©Jean Janssen

The lower section of the kongsi is a museum. Here I leaned the significance of the order of the Chinese names. First comes the surname, second the name for the generation of the family the child is in, and finally their “first” name. I need to go test this out with some Chinese friends at home (all of whom use their western names professionally).

There was also a kitchen display. Chinese who came to Penang learned of curry from their Indian neighbors. Our guide told us that they could only use the clay pot when cooking with the curry as the spices would react to the other cooking containers used. The spoon was also clay or made of shells. She also pointed out a vendor on the street, an Indian, who had added noodles to his offerings with curry to satisfy his customers of Chinese descent.

Courtyard of the Khoo Kongsi, Penang.
Site of a scene from Anna and the King staring Jodie Foster and Chow Yong Fat.
©Jean Janssen

Anyone who has seen the American movie Anna and the King staring Jodie Foster and Chow Young Fat may recognize the courtyard at the Khoo kongsi. The facades on some of the buildings were removed to reflect the original look and the courtyard “flooded”. The space was used to depict the entrance harbor in Bangkok where Anna arrived in the movie. The facades were then replaced and each family was paid $700. Our guide told us those most excited about the movie were the grandmothers who were cast as extras. In her words, they gladly handed over a small portion of her earnings to their grandchildren and told them to go have lunch at McDonald’s because she wasn’t cooking today; she was acting in a movie instead.

One of the Chinese Clan Jetties, Penang, Malaysia ©Jean Janssen

The final stop on our city tour was the jetty where homes were built out over the water. Poor immigrants needed housing but they were unable to afford land taxes, so they build their homes over the water. I saw a similar set up in Malaysia when I was in a different part of the country 10 years ago. Then, there were cisterns on their roofs to collect fresh water, but no plumbing. These were the homes of the very poor.

Along the jetty in Penang. Note the plumbing lines and the political flags out for Nomination Day.

Today, the Penang version is quite different and people clearly live here by choice-although most are older people aided by younger generations. I saw air conditioners, satellite dishes, and flat screen TVs in the homes. All of the homes have plumbing. They also have a thriving souvenir and food service business with all the tourists that come by.

This jetty home had a side patio. Inside you could see the large flat screen TV. ©Jean Janssen

Most of the homes are narrow and quite long. Additions on the back were made to house multiple generations of family members. Residents also remain clever in avoiding taxes. The tax is based on the width of the dwelling, not the length.

Georgetown, Penang was named a World heritage Site by UNESCO in 2008 noting its “living testimony to the multi-cultural heritage and traditions of Asia, and European colonial influences.” I thoroughly enjoyed my visit, but boy was it hot. You can’t avoid the heat here. They are one degree off the equator and it is hot and humid year round.

Homes in Penang along the Street of Harmony. ©Jean Janssen

After an excellent tour, we headed back to the ship to eat, sleep, and generally be lazy, just because we can. Sea days next and then Sri Lanka…

Natasha on the jetty in Penang, Malaysia

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged jetty, kongsi, kowtow, Leong San tong Khoo Kongsi, Malaysia, Penang, Penang State Museum, Pinang Peranakan Mansion, Trishaw | Leave a comment

Singapore

Posted on April 19, 2013 by travelbynatasha

After more than 30 hours of travel, all but 7 of it in the air, we arrived in Singapore. After long lines at passport control (a large group of Chinese tourists had arrived just before us) and about 15 minutes of fear when Boris’ bag arrived and mine did not, we were out to catch a cab with all our luggage accounted for. I have been to Singapore many times, but only to the airport-one of the best in the world. The drive to the pier was interesting as we saw much of the architecture that Singapore is justly famous for. The Marina Bay Hotel, three skyscrapers with what looks like a long ship on top, and the Garden by the Sea with its tall metal “trees” stand out.

The Singapore skyline by night as seen from the balcony of our fantail stateroom. ©Jean Janssen

There are three cruise ports in Singapore. In spite of handing our driver specific directions, he first took us to the new (and wrong) terminal. With no ships at dock, it was a pretty easy determination that we needed to look elsewhere. I would have like to have been docked there and seen the fabulous Singapore skyline at night. The lucky traveler will probably have this experience when they arrive as they continue to transfer departures there.

We checked in and were fortunate to be able to give our bags to porters. This service ended at 5 pm and we arrived after 4:30. No lines meant we were fairly quickly on the ship. Just as we arrived they called for the mandatory lifeboat drill so we went straight to it, hand luggage and all. We have a nice room with a very small, dated, bathroom. The draw is the balcony; it is quite large and will be perfect for sunset dinners. We are in a “fantail” room facing the sea on the back of the ship. I have always wanted to try one of these rooms.

The sunset was indeed lovely. After a shower, fresh clothes, and dinner, we went to bed before 9 pm.

The cable car when right over our ship and passed through a building mid-route. ©Jean Janssen

Singapore is hot. I woke early, before light. In spite of the early hour, it was steamy when I stepped out on the balcony. Boris loves his breakfast so we were in the dining room early and I got the Eggs Benedict I reserve for days when I have a full-service breakfast (not often). We did a little more unpacking, explored the ship, and got a few pictures of the surrounding buildings. There is an amusement island with a Hard Rock Hotel and Universal Studios just across from our ship. The cable car ride literally passes over our ship when goes through the top of a building on shore before continuing on. Boris, of course, went to trivia.

After an early lunch on the outdoor terrace of the Windows Café, we went into town for our Singapore excursion. We got another look at the downtown skyscrapers and I noted that a large cruise ship was docked at the new terminal. We made a stop at the Asian Civilizations Museum housed in the Empress Palace. This is the civil district with the colonial buildings.

The restored colonial buildings along the waterfront stand in contrast to the skyscrapers. ©Jean Janssen

Next was ride on the bumboat along the Singapore River. These vessels used to transport cargo between ships and the riverside. Also visible were the restored century-old shops that now house bars and restaurants along the shore. Behind them is a skyline of skyscrapers. The waterway was wide in parts and visible from the highway in others. While it reminded me of the Rio Ride along the Riverwalk in San Antonio, Texas, it lacked the Texas version’s intimacy and charm. (Boris thinks it is ridiculous that I am comparing the two, but it was the first thing I thought of when I boarded the bumboat.)

The modern day rickshaw in Singapore is now a trishaw-a bicycle with a single wheel cart attached for passengers. We went from the Bugi district to Raffles Hotel on a trishaw.
©Jean Janssen

After our bumboat ride, we went down to the Bugi District where the cheap market finds are found. No time for shopping today, we were boarding trishaws for our ride to the Raffles Hotel, the “Grand Lady of Singapore” where the Singapore Sling was invented. No rickshaws (two-wheeled cart where passengers are pulled by manpower) in sight, we rode a trishaw which was a single-wheeled cart attached to a bicycle.

Going to Raffles was the highlight of the day for Boris (aka “Mr. History”). He even brought “props” along. We went straight to the Long Bar where he posed for a photograph with his monocle. The bar, with it peanut shell-covered floor, has moved locations within the hotel. It was originally off the main lobby, but was moved after WWII to it present location off the courtyard. Boris suspects it sustained major damage by the Japanese who used the Raffles Hotel as their headquarters during the war.

Boris at the Raffles Long Bar, monocle and all. Had to get his Singapore Sling, invented at the Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel.
©Jean Janssen

After Boris hit the gift shop, we went to the Tiffin Room in the main lobby for tea. There was a buffet with dim sum, a three-tiered tray with sandwiches and pastries, and scones to accompany your endless refills of tea. The lobby with its fabulous staircase and fresh orchids was lovely. There was no access to many of the areas for those not staying in the hotel. We ended the visit with a photo of the doorman dressed in the fashion of the old Indian army.

Near the Bugi District, we saw three young Buddhist priests walking along the street. ©Jean Janssen

On the way back to the ship, our guide Florence shared some interesting facts on Singapore. About 70% of the population is of Chinese ancestry and most of the population is Buddhist. There are no free schools in Singapore, although the poorest of the population can apply for government assistance to send their children to school. Most goods are heavily taxed in Singapore, so most of the people cross the border into Malaysia each weekend to make their regular purchases. All males have to provide two years of military service with continued retraining through age 40. Soldiers are sent to other countries for training in a variety of conditions. Finally, she told us that the government was currently encouraging families to have more children.

Boris and I with the Indian doorman at the Raffles Hotel in Singapore.

Our departure from Singapore was scheduled for 6 pm that evening, but we were delayed by continuing repairs to the thrusters that had required the employment of professional divers. (Thoughts of last year’s fire that had cancelled our India cruise on the Azamara Quest came to mind.) They were also trying to track down 16 passengers that had not turned in their passports. We got underway about 8:30 pm and I left my dinner to come back to the cabin and watch the sail-a-way from our fantail balcony. The buildings were beautifully lit and the lit cable car carriages dotted the sky like fireflies. It was a magical send-off.

Our departure from Singapore. The lit cable cars dot the skyline like fireflies. ©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Marina Bay Hotel, Raffles Hotel, Singapore, Trishaw | 1 Comment

Off to India with a stop in Doha, Qatar

Posted on April 16, 2013 by travelbynatasha

I have been to buildings and hospitals with designated prayer rooms, but never an airport with a mosque. ©Jean Janssen

I have been to buildings and hospitals with designated prayer rooms, but never an airport with a mosque.
Doha International Airport
©Jean Janssen

Wwlcome to the Persian Gulf. This photo was taken by Rick Smith from Canada on a visit to Doha, Qatar.

Welcome to the Persian Gulf. This photo was taken by Rick Smith from Canada on a visit to Doha, Qatar.

We flew 14+ hours to reach Doha, Qatar in route to Singapore where we board our “Spice Islands” cruise which ends in India. Doha sits on the coast of the Persian Gulf and 60% of the country’s population live in Doha. Not surprisingly, the economy is based on oil and natural gas production. Qatar gained its independence in 1971 and is considered one of the world’s fastest developing countries. Geographically, Qatar is a peninsula out into the Persian Gulf off Saudi Arabia and Emirates. We are very close to Iran and Iraq. Unusual for this part of the world, the majority of Doha’s population are expatriates coming primarily from Pakistan, Sri Lanka, India, Indonesia, Nepal, Philippines and Bangladesh.

everyone needs their snacks for the plane. Doha International Airport ©Jean Janssen

We flew in on Qatar Airways on a big plane where I was one of only 10 Anglos and the only blonde on the plane. Most of the passengers were Indian. While waiting to board the plane, a young man on the same flight asked me why I was going to Doha. Clearly I was not the typical passenger. When I told him that we were making a connection and going on to Singapore (and that I had been to that part of the world many times primarily to scuba dive), he seemed genuinely shocked.

Doha International Airport. I challenge you to identify the flights. ©Jean Janssen

The plane was clean and relatively new; the service was good. The movie selection is one of the best I have seen. We were in economy, but the passage through Business Class showed it to be very nice. Most surprising was that all of the signage was in English and Arabic. As they put up the route map, I noted that I have never seen the names of cities in Arkansas written in that lettering.

Airline choices are a little different than at home ©Jean Janssen

The terminal in Doha is nice, but the attractions limited. In spite of the late hour, most everything is open and there are lots of people around. Ironically, there were more people in the airport at midnight (almost every waiting area is full) than when we arrived at 6:15. Our flight leaves at 2:25 am and it is one of many departing at that hour. Clearly this is a connection airport. There are lounges, but we have no status on Qatar. You can pay to enter a lounge for $40 per person.

Snack time in the Doha airport. ©JeanJanssen

We got something to eat at the minimal food court. I choose a burger at the A & W stand. First time I have been to an A & W that does not serve root beer. Apparently a cheeseburger is a small patty of meat on a big bun with cheese, pickles, and ketchup. Reminds me of a McDonald’s kid’s meal. I know I am alone on this, but I hate ketchup so I spent quite a bit of time dissecting and wiping my sandwich.

A tour group returning home after haj, a pilgrimage to Mecca. ©Jean Janssen

The airport travelers are in a mix of Western, Arabian, and traditional Muslim dress. We saw one group of travels all returning from a pilgrimage to Mecca in traditional dress with the women in a matching color (pink). We saw others in blue with something stamped on the cloth and wondered if different tour groups wore clothing to distinguish themselves as a group.

This gentleman rolls his duty free cart around the Doha International Airport selling cartons of cigarettes.
©Jean Janssen

Technology abounds here. Everyone is on their cell phone.The airport internet service is free and relatively fast. Funny how the world can be so different and so much alike all at the same time. The duty free shopping is plentiful, but the most crowded kiosk was the one selling electronics. There must have been 8 salesmen there ready to assist customers, most of them busy. It was like walking into an apple store. Not to miss any shopping opportunity, there was one mobile salesman who walked around with a duty free cart selling cigarettes.

You can see how well you did. Here is the translated screen. ©Jean Janssen

Our cruise takes us to Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and India. After porting in Mumbai (Bombay), India, we will take a couple of extra days to see Delhi and Agra (Taj Mahal). Stay tuned for the spice route…

Posted in international | Tagged Doha, Qatar, Qatar Airways | Leave a comment

Georgetown Texas and a visit with Jane Goodall

Posted on April 4, 2013 by travelbynatasha

The iconic Cullen Building at Southwestern University in Georgetown, Texas©Jean Janssen

My mother will tell you that I fell in love with Georgetown the minute I saw the Southwestern University campus as a high school senior. There was no going back. In a move that would be considered radical today, it was the only college I applied to. The University has grown; Georgetown has grown even more. The love affair still continues.

Along Hwy 29 in Historic Georgetown, Texas.©Jean Janssen

There were more bluebonnet sightings as I drove here less than a week after my trip to Warrenton. In fact, some of the route was exactly the same. I take 290 out of Houston, but turn off on 95 just a half hour before reaching Austin avoiding the perpetually congested I35. My drive takes me through Coupland, Taylor, and past Jonah finally reaching Gtown driving west on 29. (You have to love an area of Texas where the mascots are named Ducks and Hippos.) I cross a tollway now and go past Georgetown’s new and second high school, but there is something about that last 40 minutes of the drive that takes me back in time. I know I am “home” when I see the President’s house on the top of the ridge.

San Gabriel House Bed and Breakfast in Georgetown, Texas.©Jean Janssen

Any excuse will work for me to come to Georgetown. This time I have a couple of really good ones. I am attending the Shilling Lecture series with Jane Goodall as the featured speaker and the retirement dinner for the University’s current President Jake Schrum. My student days long over and no longer able to stay on the campus, my home for the next few days will be my favorite Georgetown B & B, the San Gabriel House just across the street. Too early for check-in, I parked at the University and walked the campus. Jake Schrum has been instrumental in the many facilities enhancements to the University campus and I always need my walk to catch up on any new buildings.

a section of Southwestern University's academic mall (without a puddle in sight).©Jean Janssen

Nice to see Neil and Dee again at the B & B. I settled into my room in the late afternoon. The lecture will be in the Robertson Center rather than the usual Alma Thomas Theater. I knew they must be anticipating a huge crowd, so walked over to pick up my tickets as soon as will call opened. Big Mistake. There was a tremendous storm and in spite of a raincoat and umbrella, I was soaked upon arrival. I can now tell you all the places the campus floods in a flash rain. I walked back to my room and changed and dried my hair. (I was wearing a hooded raincoat and used an umbrella and my hair was wet. How did that happen?)

my event program and mangled, weathered ticket©Jean Janssen

By the time I walked back for the lecture over less than an hour later, the rain was a mere drizzle and most of the flooded areas were clear. Of course there was no line at will call either. Oh well, all was worth it. I fished my completely soaked ticket, now in pieces, out of my pocket. I was afraid the student ticket-taker was going to deny me entrance the way she looked at it. Then she announced that I had a green ticket and should go see the ushers at the center aisle. I was afraid that my earlier appearance had caused some serious security concerns, but was pleasantly surprised to find that I had somehow scored reserved seating. I took my seat in the 5th row, two rows behind the former President Roy Shilling for whom the series is named.

Jane Goodall was the featured speaker at the Shilling Lecture Series, Southwestern University, April 2013
@Jean Janssen

Jane Goodall was an amazing presenter. A day shy of her 79th birthday, she spoke for over an hour with no notes and followed that with a question and answer session lead by current students. She was charming, engaging, and funny, all while delivering a very serious message. She credited her mother with encouraging her love for animals and not imposing upon her the limitations society would have put on her because of her sex. She told a wonderful story of her mother discovering earth worms in Jane’s bed one night. Instead of the expected reaction, her mother reminded her that these creatures needed the earth and would die unless they were returned.

The campus lawn leading past the fountains to the pedestrian mall (open for traffic while I was a student) and the Lois Perkins Chapel. The lawn was the site of my college graduation a “few” years ago.
©Jean Janssen

Unable to pay for college, Jane worked to raise money to visit friends in Kenya to pursue her dream of working with animals. When she had raised the money, her mother put her on a boat bound for Kenya in spite for the heavy criticism her mother received for letting this young woman in her early 20s travel alone to the “dark continent”. It was not until after her work with the Gombe chimpanzees that Jane was able to return to England to receive her PhD-having never obtained the underlying degrees-encouraged by her mentor to get the documentary background to insure her credibility. At Cambridge, she was told that she had done everything wrong in spite of being the one person in the room who had actually worked with the chimpanzees that closely.

A new orphan at one of the Jane Goodall Institute’s rehabilitation centers.

Her first love is working in the field to collect the data, but you also see the sparkle in her eye when she talks about the lab time spent analyzing that same data. She fell naturally and unintentionally into activism. Today through the Jane Goodall Institute and the Roots and Shoots program, she promotes environmental awareness and preservation, the protection of animals and their habitats, and prevention of the inhumane treatment and slaughter of animals.

Dr. Jake Schrum introduced the student panel who posed questions to featured speaker, Dr. Jane Goodall.©Jean Janssen

After the lecture, the student panel posed some interesting questions. These students, Animal Behavior, Environmental Studies, and Physics majors, were perhaps chosen more for their extracurricular activism than anything else. The most surprising comments came in response to a question by one of the students, a citizen of Rwanda, Africa. When asked if the death of Dian Fossey made her reconsider her work in the field, Dr. Goodall replied that Dian’s death was her own fault. Both woman had the same mentor, Louis Leakey. Dian was a San Francisco zoologist who worked with the gorillas in Rwanda. Her life and mysterious death was popularly documented in the hollywood movie Gorillas in the Mist staring Sigourney Weaver. Weaver received a nomination for an Oscar for Best Actress for the role.

Surgorney Weaver as Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist for which she was nominated for an Academy Award as Best Actress.

Sigourney Weaver as Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist
for which she was nominated for
an Academy Award as Best Actress.

Dr. Goodall said that she and Dian had spoken many times. Fossey’s mistake, according to Goodall, was to not let the local people near the Gorillas. Jane employed the local people and engaged them in her research and paid they (making it a better option than supporting poaching). Jane also argued with Dian that the locals need not be kept from the animals because the animals were smart enough to distinguish a local who was part of the research from a poacher. Jane argued that the animals were smart enough to run away from a potential poacher. Fossey’s death was her own fault according to Dr. Goodall.

After the program, Dr. Goodall attended a reception where she personally greeted each guest. She speaks 300+ days out of the year and shows no sign of slowing down. Truly an inspiration.

There is no way I would have been able to attend college, much less a private one such as Southwestern University, without the academic scholarships I received. SU continues this practice today offering generous financial assistance to its students. I am unashamedly proud of my education and my alma mater. To learn more, check out http://www.southwestern.edu. For my personal insight, just send me a note. –Natasha

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Dian Fossey, Georgetown Texas, Jake Schrum, Jane Goodall, Jane Goodall Institute, Roots and Shoots, San Gabriel House Bed and Breakfast, Shilling Lecture Series, Southwestern University | Leave a comment