travelbynatasha

Antiques and Bluebonnets

Posted on April 4, 2013 by travelbynatasha

With Maggie home for the Easter holidays, we headed out to Warrenton, Texas to try our luck antiquing the fields. Emma and I have gone for both the fall and spring antique fairs in the Round Top/Warrenton area for years. (See my posts on the fall fair and a focus on Marburger Farms.) On this visit it is preview weekend so the Round Top shows, Marburger, Big Red Barn are not yet open.

I find the fall shows to be bigger, but just slightly. In the spring you have the advantage of the fabulous drive out to the area with the fields and highway easements covered with Texas wildflowers like Bluebonnets and (red) Indian paintbrushes. Even if you never find the tents, you’ll love the journey. Many people make this an annual pilgrimage.

The road was backed with shoppers and vendors heading in both directions. Warrenton, Texas.©Jean Janssen

The road was packed with shoppers and vendors heading in both directions. Warrenton, Texas.
©Jean Janssen

We try to go midweek to beat the crowds. However, we worked around Maggie’s availability and with Good Friday being a holiday for so many, the fields were full of people and the road was crowded in both directions. In addition to the shoppers, you had vendors coming it to set up for the for the shows opening early the next week.

We parked near the Campbell building and made our usual stop to see Robin Lindberg-aka, the Queen of Heirs– and Beth Brown: Both show fabulous estate jewelry in a range of prices. We also had to start with our clothes-trying-on-marathon at Cottage Gatherings-a two-hour event. Maggie slept the whole way out and woke in time for the shopping. It can be pretty intense. “I was not prepared for this” was Maggie’s reaction.

This shopping is hard work. At Cottage Gatherings at the Campbell Building in Warrenton, Texas.
©Jean Janssen

Phase 1-Campbell building shopping-completed, we headed out to the fields. Our breakfast stop had already had to be modified as it was Good Friday and we were not eating meat. That meant no bacon, egg, and cheese biscuit or sausage kolache in the morning. Lunch was an even bigger challenge. There are food booths everywhere along the road, but few choices if you are not eating meat. (I wasn’t up for the baked potatoes just across from the Campbell building and the Upper Deck-a favorite spot-had a really long line.)

The Junk Gypsy is a Warrenton mainstay and the inspiration for the HGTV television show. Note the longhorns on the grill with the koozies on the tips to protect the unsuspecting passerby.
©Jean Janssen

Most of the shopping is set up in tents that cover the open fields or sandwiched between the few buildings in town. Pedestrian bridges cross the ravines which separate the fields, the construction of which is a testament to the biannual shows’ importance to the local economy. We did a little browsing along the way and ended up at Casa Mia/Texas Pizza Wagon along the south side of the road. They have a portable brick pizza oven and offer a wide variety of generously-sized individual pizzas, salads, and sandwiches. I added mushrooms and fresh basil to my cheese pizza, selected a drink, and got out for $10.50. Emma and Maggie shared their pizza, but added a large bag of kettle corn to their lunch. (Kettle corn is plentiful during the show weekends.) I would recommend this lunch-with or without meat.

Maggie is moving off-campus next semester so we were looking for some inexpensive things to decorate her apartment with. If she didn’t have to drive or ship it all to Pennsylvania we could have really loaded her up. She found “ready to hang/use” items as well as some that are more “project” pieces.

It seemed like everyone had their dog with them when they came out to Warrenton, Texas. ©Jean Janssen

It seemed like everyone had their dog with them when they came out to Warrenton, Texas. Also note the airstream trailer and tee pee. You can step up shop in anything here, the more creative the better.
©Jean Janssen

I bought a beautiful platter and Emma got a few things as well, but we absolutely wore Maggie out. This power shopping clearly takes training and Maggie has to learn to pace herself to keep up.

I couldn’t justify this purchase, but I really liked it.
©Jean Janssen

Robin has a wonderful apartment in the Campbell Building so at some point Maggie packed it in and took a nap. Emma and I used the opportunity to visit with vendor friends we have made over the many years we have been coming to the show. The atmosphere also changes as the day wears on. By 3 pm it seemed that at least every other person’s favorite accessory was a koozie with a cold beer. This is Texas you know and besides that it is “always 5 o’clock somewhere.”

Some of the vendors close around 6 pm; others stay open until later. That said, I have never seen a vendor close down as long as they have shoppers looking at their special finds.

People watching at the Campbell Building in Warrenton, Texas. (left to right) Beth Brown-holding Queen of Heirs mascot Peaches-Maggie studying the crowd and Emma texting.@Jean Janssen

People watching at the Campbell Building in Warrenton, Texas. (left to right) Beth Brown (holding Queen of Heirs mascot Peaches), Maggie, and Emma.
@Jean Janssen

With the Campbell building closing, we sat outside on the infamous red adirondack chairs and did some people watching. People watching is reason enough to come to the Antiques Fair.

After closing, we made the short drive to La Grange, Texas for some of our favorite Tex-Mex at Las Fuentes. Cheese enchiladas always work on Lenten Fridays. We got the skinny of the show’s activities from a vendor perspective from Robin, Beth, and Robin’s niece Laura who spends her spring break working the show with her aunt.

Doesn’t matter where you go; there is always a souvenir tee shirt.
©Jean Janssen

It was a special treat for Maggie since at 21 she can now join the “legals” for a margarita with her Tex-Mex. Of course it wasn’t her first libation for the day. She had found blender drink offerings among the Warrenton tents. (I suspect this was the reason she needed that afternoon nap.)

On the drive back to Houston, Emma announced that it was Maggie’s job to stay up with me as I drove back. (Apparently it was now time for Emma’s tequila nap.) I had wisely limited myself to one jumbo margarita. It was all highway in from La Grange and we made it in good time.

I am now actually posting this several days after our visit. The show is in its second week and more venues are now open in the nearby Round Top area. After yesterday’s preview, Marburger Farms opens for regular admission shopping today. Stop by and see Dolan Geiman and his work. I commissioned a wonderful original “Westie” piece for Boris’ Bar Westie as a Christmas gift. It never made it to the bar; we continue to enjoy it in the den.

Natasha tackles Warrenton, Texas

More to come on spring break in Michigan, early April in Georgetown, and Asia in the middle of the month. Boris and I leave for Singapore, Malaysia, Sri Lanka, and India on April 15. In May, Rocky and I dive Belize. Join Natasha for more travel…

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Campbell Building, Cottage Gatherings, Dolan Geiman, junk gypsy, Las Fuentes La Grange, Queen of Heirs, Round Top TX, Texas Pizza Wagon, Upper Deck, Warrenton TX | Leave a comment

Happy Anniversary Travel by Natasha

Posted on February 14, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Breakfast at PIe Face, NYC

Today is the one year anniversary of my travel blog! What started as the by-product of a class I took to improve my photo books, has become an obsession and an integral part of my travel experiences. While I have often kept a journal associated with some of my more exotic travel, I now see each event as something to write about. It also affects the pictures I take and fuels the frustration when I don’t have the picture I “need”.

The blog has been viewed by people from 89 countries. I am headed toward 5,000 views. Symbolically, my highest view count is today’s at 74 (and we are not finished yet).

The Main Plaza, Marrakech, Morocco

In the past twelve months, I have been to 15 foreign countries and 5 states. (I admit a preference for foreign travel.) I have been working on a Travelers’ Century Club membership; I will become eligible when I reach 100 countries. I have made it to 93, with three additional planned for April when I visit India, Sri Lanka, and Qatar.

This is the last photo on my underwater camera taken in the Philippines.

I reached a scuba diving milestone at 200 dives and celebrated a milestone birthday this past year. In 2012, I have swam with any number of exotic sea creatures from seahorses to manta rays on boat dives, shore dives, wreck dives, and night dives. I have also frolicked with a few wild donkeys. Throughout the last twelve months, I have enjoyed scuba diving, cruising, antiquing, reading,touring, canoeing, European driving, hiking, cooking, writing, whale watching, sunning, swimming, and roller coaster riding (among other things). Ok, I admit there was lots of eating and shopping too.

Read the blog and in my 80 posts from the past year, you will find insights into Italy, Argentina, The Caribbean, Morocco, Mexico, the Philippines, Africa, Spain, French Polynesia, Portugal, Singapore, and Bonaire. Domestically, you can read about New York and Las Vegas, small towns in Texas, Minnesota, and anything you want to know about Walt Disney World in Florida (from 5 trips in 6 months).

A photo op at the new Dumbo ride in September.

A photo op at the new Dumbo ride in the Magic Kingdom at Walt Disney World.

When I was trying to track trends, I noted that tiaras make frequent appearances and did notice that nearly- naked men do appear on a few occasions-the Naked Cowboy in NYC and Thong Boy in Cabo (not to mention the interesting panhandler signs in Las Vegas).

I looked back and my first post was only one paragraph with a picture I pulled from the internet (a tiara). Hopefully, you will be more entertained and informed by my recent posts which now feature links and original photography (with a few guest photographers thrown in as well). There are also a few more paragraphs.

You never know what you are going to find. I didn't know I need I needed a rocking banana seat made out of bottle caps...

You never know what you are going to find at the Round Top/Warrenton Antiques Fair. I didn’t know I need I needed a rocking banana seat made out of bottle caps…

Thank you for sharing the year with me. The journey continues with Michigan in March and India in April. Become a follower if you are not already along for the ride and share the site with your friends.

I love words. I love to sing them and speak them and even now, I must admit, I have fallen into the joy of writing them.”
-Anne Rice

Natasha

Posted in About Me | 2 Comments

I am headed back to The Office (in Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico)

Posted on February 13, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Its a rough life, but someone has to live it. Our view from Villa Gran Vista, Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico.
©Robert Kochman

Boris and Fred with their striped marlin. Cabo San Lucas marina, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

Day 4 in Cabo San Lucas and Boris is up early to go deep sea fishing with Fred. Another day of lounging and whale watching for the rest of us. We got a text from Fred a couple hours in that Boris is horribly sea sick and that they are “enjoying” ten-foot seas. They were rewarded for their efforts with a striped marlin. We got “the call” and Marne, Margaret, Jim, and I went down to see them come in. Normally, Boris is catch and release and that is the policy of Fishing International, the outfitters he has used for years in many locations. However, the fish was injured by the crew on the pull in and so they brought it in and we were able to get a photo.

As the fishing boats came in, sea lions hitched a ride and enjoyed being fed by the crew. Cabo San Lucas marina, Mexico.©Jean Janssen

As the fishing boats came in, sea lions hitched a ride on the back and enjoyed being fed by the crew.
Cabo San Lucas marina, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

One of the coolest things was seeing the sea lion ride in on the back of the boats as he was feed by the crew.

Tonight is our second (of two) dinners out so it is time for some more lounging before getting ready for the group’s favorite restaurant, Edith’s (owned by the same Edith Jimenez who owns The Office).

Our trip leader, Margaret Henrikson, could be the brochure girl for the Villa Gran Vista, our retreat in
Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico
©Jean Janssen

We did some serious lounging in the morning and early afternoon. After a full day of spa treatments, shopping and “office”time yesterday, we just hung out at our gorgeous house.

Dinner at the house starts with a blessing and last night we closed with a (new to me) dice game called Left/Right/Center. Each of us put in three dollars and I was one person away from all the money. Beginner’s Luck for sure; the game requires absolutely no skill. One of the best parts of this annual trip is the opportunity to catch up with our friends. Sure, we don’t always have the deepest discussions and I am not sure if I can repeat any of the jokes told on these trips, but the downtime with friends is not to be discounted. Our families have all changed in the ten years since we started traveling together. The last of kids (with the notable exception of my godson) graduates from high school this year. As our children have gotten older, our trips have gotten longer.

Janie prefers the lounge chair to the wall.
©Jean Janssen

…Marne, the hot tub.
©Jean Janssen

So at some point we actually have to go inside and get ready for the evening out. Travel is a little challenging with 12 people in the group. Fortunately a Cabo taxi seats 11. Which means at some point everyone (except Boris who claims the front seat each time due to his injury) has to do the half on/half off cheek for part of the trip.

We all get a little more dressed up for this evening, although it is not necessary. Part of me would rather just stay in my swimsuit and eat Fortunato’s guacamole until I am full.

We reserve the wine room and when we arrive for our reservations it is still occupied. We take up most of the seats at the bar with our group. Edith’s is a beautiful setting. At night, you go through the front door and it creates the illusion that you are inside a building, when really you are outside the whole time. You sit under large palapas or a canopy of greenery and only when you venture to look up and see stars do you realize that you are outside.

The bar at Edith’s in Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

The wine room is actually wine storage area and is covered and enclosed, but with two glass walls for a view of almost the entire restaurant. Edith’s is not cheap, but it is the group’s Cabo favorite. They do a killer caesar salad, prepared table-side and the steaks and seafood are usually topnotch.

Make sure someone in your group gets the flaming Mexican coffee so you don’t miss the show. In the wine room at Edith’s in Cabo San Lucas.
©Jean Janssen

The floor show that comes with the Mexican coffee, a flaming drink, is not to be missed. We enjoy mariachis wherever we go in Cabo, but the entertainment at Edith’s is superb.

The guys were pretty tired tonight so no dice (if you’ll pardon the pun). There is another golf outing, early this time, in the morning we packed it in after returning home from the restaurant.

Day 5 is our last full day in Cabo. Since we all enjoyed the spa treatments so much, our girls pay us a return visit. Just a massage for me today. Just a little different, but equally fabulous. Boris isn’t a golfer so he partook as well. Lulu, Fortunato’s wife so handles all the cleaning of the villa, had noticed Boris’ injury and prepared and administered a homemade treatment. We all decided it looked better, so she is back for a repeat performance today.

Our pool, complete with swim-up bar. Villa Gran Vista, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

After my massage I shower, cover myself in sunscreen and head out for my last day of sunbathing. While Tahiti was a disappointment in the tan department, I will go home from this trip with a bronze glow, slowly acquired. We are going to have lunch at the office today, so

Sheer heaven. I truly think I could eat this every day.
–Natasha.
©Robert Kochman

Fortunato is off duty. But I am dreaming of his guacamole and Lori uncovers some and we have an early afternoon snack.

After we hear from the golfers, we go into town for a really late lunch-3:30 at the office. Another beautiful day. This time we start with appetizers and order lunch as well. Of course, we have far too much food. Just as the food arrives, the golfers show up. What timing!

At some point, it becomes happy hour which means two for one super-sized drinks. ( I recommend the pina coladas and the mojitos.) Boris went for the Mexican beer, brought to the table in your personal and decorated ice bucket. If this isn’t enough, you can always have Rambo stop by your table and pour something down your throat. (This I don’t recommend.)

Margaret does a little bargaining on the beach and comes away with a colorful sarong.
©Jean Janssen

Because it is our last day here, we have to partake of a little beach shopping. We miss thong boy, but our boys have spotted several women they find interesting to look at. Isn’t it funny that we didn’t notice them several days ago when it was just the girls.

The Office also has their own gift shop where they sell logo items. I love the drawing print and Lori spots it on a green tees so we get those for our boys. (Green is one of Rocky’s favorite colors.) I thought we were headed home after, but everyone wants to do some last shopping in town. Some people want to go to the hat store we hit a few days ago, others want to pick up some meds like the ones Boris bought the other day. I figure that I will go in search of the linen store that we like but didn’t find the last time we were in town.

Beach vendors and boat in the bay at Cabo San Lucas.
©Jean Janssen

Margaret likes their things too, so Jim, Margaret, and I head off in one direction. Calling to Boris, I let him know where I am headed and he goes off following the rest of the group. We found the shop; it had been where we looked before but had been closed two days ago. Today, she is able to pick up a few napkins and a tablecloth as well as some things for her children. Jim has picked up some tees for the guys and I got a tablecloth to match napkins I bought on a previous trip.

View of the bay from The Office in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

Janie called to say they were not able to find us with the directions she gave so they were heading back to the house. We went back after the linen store. First thing they asked, “isn’t Boris with you?” He showed up about 45 minutes later, mad. He assumed the same plan as the previous day and was waiting for everyone at the Giggling Marlin after heading off on his own. (Not a bad place to have to wait.)

A sunset view from our terrance our last night in Cabo San Lucas. ©Jean Janssen

A sunset view from our terrace our last night in Cabo San Lucas.
©Jean Janssen

Hot Tub Party, Cabo San Lucas.
©Robert Kochman

I had ventured into the hot tub as the evening had grown cooler, so I let Boris stew for a while in the room where he had gone to pout and then let him know that Fortunato had put out his famous guacamole and queso flameado (Spanish for flamed cheese) which got him to come out of the room. We all had our little moments on this trip. Of course, none of us was hungry after gorging at The Office. Of course, that didn’t stop any of us from eating it anyway. Fabulous!!

Our chef, Fortunato, or “our hero” as Bob referred to him.
©Robert Kochman

Tonight Fortunato prepared a special menu for our last supper in Cabo. We had potatoes, spinach salad, grilled vegetables, and lobster and steak. He even prepared some of the marlin that Fred and Boris had caught. I have had marlin before; not a meal I wanted to repeat. Those that tried it on this occasion said it was good, but it was clearly not the table favorite. More surf and turf for me please.

Bob with his prop assistant Margaret delivering the famous monkey joke.
©Jean Janssen

After the food, it was joke time. Fred finished a joke he had started several days ago (he kept getting interrupted); Jim repeated his infamous goat (aka Lawyer) joke which is referenced on our trip t-shirts and something I can not repeat; and Bob gave us a classic performance of the money joke which Margaret has even immortalized on a painting she got for him.

Villa Gran Vista, Cabo San Lucas, Baja Mexico
©Jean Janssen

Everyone agreed that we will be back next year. Same house, absolutely same chef. Time for feet up by the fire pit to close the evening.

Posted in international | Tagged Cabo San Lucas, Ediths, Fishing International, Los Cabos, Pedregal, The Office on the Beach, Villa Gran Vista | 2 Comments

Whale watching in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Posted on February 13, 2013 by travelbynatasha

View of the Pacific from the terrace of our rented home in Petragal in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
©Jean Janssen

Boris and I made a quick turnaround after Tahiti and we are off again on our group vacation to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico. This is an anniversary trip for our group-year 10. Boris and I have made 8 of the trips. This is the group’s third trip to Cabo. I came once years ago with Boris, our first vacation together. He wanted to take me deep sea fishing. I threw up 7 times in the first hour. I did not enjoy it. The second day he went fishing and caught a Marlin; I slept in late and then hung out at the pool and beach. We were both happy. Boris will fish again on this trip and I will once again hang out at the pool; we’ll both be happy.

The iconic symbol of Cabo San Lucas, El Arco

We are fortunate to have direct flights from Houston to Cabo. The airport is between San Jose del Cabo (the more historic and charming city) and Cabo San Lucas (the cruise port and activity center). There are also many beachside resorts and golf courses between the two cities. The area is collectively called Los Cabos. We are renting a house in Pedregal, a gated-luxury-custom-home development (thats a lot of adjectives!) on a rocky hillside at “Land’s End” on the southern top of the Baja pennisula where the Sea of California and the Pacific Ocean meet.

Villa Gran Vista, Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico
©Robert Kochman

We have a great house, Villa Gran Vista, with 7 master bedrooms. Boris still is using a cane, so we were given the Safari Room, the master on the ground floor. While this is the most convenient room, it offers the least privacy if you are sharing the house. It is also the owner’s room, so most of the closet space is locked. All the bedrooms are huge with comfy king-size beds with private baths with big showers. The home’s community areas are wonderful and open right out onto the terrace with a direct view of the Pacific Ocean.

One of the many fabulous meals prepared by Fortunato during our stay at Villa Gran Vista in Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
©Jean Janssen

We have opted to have the live-in caretakers prepare most of our meals, so Fortunato had a lunch of fresh guacamole, salsa, chips, and hot wings ready for us when we arrived. Our travel planner, Margaret, had forwarded the money so he could do most of the grocery shopping (and bar stocking) before we arrived. We have rented before in Cabo and done our own shopping upon arrival; between the plane travel and the shopping, you lose the whole first day. This trip, with the shopping completed, we were able to shift directly into relaxation mode.

I unpacked, applied sunscreen, and went directly to the pool. From our perch in the pool, we were able to see the hawks flying over the hillside and the whales migrating in the Pacific Ocean.

Bob got this great picture of the whales from our terrace at the Villa Gran Vista in Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico ©Robert Kochman

Bob got this great picture from our terrace at the Villa Gran Vista in Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
©Robert Kochman

A few of the guys had brought binoculars so we were able to get a good look at the whales. None breached, but several gave us a “tail” show. They often played with the boats. I was surprised at how small these viewing boats were and how close they got to the whales.

Whale watching from the pool. Villa Gran Vista, Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
©Robert Kochman

We did a lot of whale watching from our lounge chairs, the pool, and the hot tub (letting us call this behavior “an activity”).

Fortunato prepared a fabulous dinner of Mexican fare. It was a great day, although we were all tired and packed it in early.

Dawn our first morning in Cabo (day two). Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico
©Robert Kochman

We were honored to have the infamous Bob Kochman of Kochman Worldwide on our trip.
©Jean Janssen

We had a big Mexican breakfast the following morning. This is the one thing we all agreed was a necessary addition to our trip. Years of experience with Kochman Worldwide, aka Bob Kochman, had helped us perfect the trip. Janie and Todd arrived the next day to find us all lounging around the pool.

Boris and I at La Taverna Gastro Bar on the Marina Pier in Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico
©Marne LaGrasta

Day Two and it was time for one of our two dinners out of the house. We tried La Taverna Gastro Bar on the Marina Pier. Although highly rated on Trip Advisor-which I usually find reliable-I was throughly disappointed with the food. Boris and I shared the surf and turf for two. The garlic soup starter was excellent, but it went downhill after that. My garlic mashed potatoes were cold (not even room temperature) and my medium-rare steak came out well-done. Drinks and dessert were no better. (Don’t listen to the Trip Advisor claim that the house red wine is good). On the plus side, the staff was terrific and went out of their way to make it a great experience. The restaurant has been open only 3 months and the owner/chef Justo Couto told us that we were the largest group (12) that they had ever served.

The restaurant has a prime location on the marina pier near where the cruise ship tenders dock. (Which may account for some of the great reviews from cruisers who were ready for anything that wasn’t ship food.) It was a beautiful evening and with a light wrap, you can enjoy the patio dining. You are reminded it is Mexico though when the federales clad in fatigues and armed with machine guns cruise the pier.

My el Puma CD. Unfortunately, it does not contain the trademark growl.
©Jean Janssen

The highlight of the evening however, was the musical stylings of Jose Ramon Serrano, aka El Puma, who sang for us in English, Spanish, and “Japanese”. Boris even got me the CD. Wonderful guitar playing, but it was his puma growl that could send a woman over the edge. He found us a responsive audience.

Day three was spa day for the girls. Some of the boys were headed to Palmilla for golf. They said it was a wonderful course. I started with a deep tissue massage which was so relaxing and a bargain at $50 for 60 minutes I followed that with the longest mani/pedi ever. Two girls worked for two hours (no kidding) to get my nails into shape. I didn’t even think they were that bad; I just wanted some color. (I hadn’t had them painted since I lost one of my big toenails as a result of the infamous camera drop in Marrakech, Morocco last April.)

Only in Mexico do you find mariachi bands hanging out in town. Cabo San Lucas, Baja, Mexico. ©Jean Janssen

Only in Mexico do you find mariachi bands hanging out in town. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

My so-called friends started lunch within my line of vision before the girls finished my mani/pedi. When the girls did finish, I had to just sit at the table and watch everyone else eat so my nails could dry completely. Poor Natasha; she got too much pampering.

The girls go shopping…Janie’s big find with (from left) Jane, Margaret, Janie, Marne, Lori, and Natasha

After some nail drying in the sun, we changed and headed into town for a little shopping. We were able to find most of her favorite shops, but all I purchased was a new sunhat. My “lovely” turquoise hat, purchased from the $10 table on a cruise ship, didn’t hold up to water and had already stained one beach towel and sent dye running down my back in the pool.

After shopping, we went to our favorite beachfront bar, The Office. What a great name!! When we arrived the blue beach umbrellas were still up, but as the sun faded the umbrellas were closed and the heaters and blankets came out. There are a few tables on the porch, but most are right on the sand.

Margaret and I enjoying the mariachis at The Office. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

Of course, we had to have some of our favorites played by the strolling mariachis. Marne even joined them for a drum solo. At the table next to us a group of men came in post-fishing. They were celebrating the 70th birthday of one of their ranks, a retired captain of the aircraft carrier Kittyhawk. Of course we had to join in that serenade.

Marne joined the mariachis for a drum solo. She put her all into it. ©Jean Janssen

Marne joined the mariachis for a drum solo.
©Jean Janssen

On the edge of the bar premises, the vendors provide beach shopping. They are not allowed in, but that does not keep them from getting right to the edge and trying to get your attention. As you try to look out on the beautiful bay and El Arco, they tempt you with colorful sarongs, straw bags, silver, and Mexican wrestlers’ masks. You can get a full meal at The Office, but we like to come here for appetizers and drinks and the best people watching in Cabo.

Jane and Thong Boy on the beach. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.

This year the award went to “Thong Boy”. Lori had the unfortunate spot at the table that faces in. She missed him as he passed The Office, but continued to remind us to keep a lookout. Finally, with no return sighting, she went off in search of him and returned to inform us of her success. Because no one would believe us without a photo, Jane decided to head out on her own quest and was rewarded with a kiss for her efforts. Thong-Boy is actually Micah, a bartender from Seattle.

Jane, Janie, and friend at The Office. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.
©Jean Janssen

Twilight at The Office. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Twilight at The Office. As the evening cools, you can wrap up with the blankets draped over the chairs. Cabo San Lucas, Mexico
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international | Tagged Cabo San Lucas, El Puma, Los Cabos, Pedregal, The Office on the Beach, Villa Gran Vista | 5 Comments

Natasha is kicking herself today-Rangiroa in French Polynesia

Posted on February 5, 2013 by travelbynatasha

We are on Rangiroa in the third archipelago we are visiting in French Polynesia, the Tuamotu Islands.
I took this picture of the ship once we reached the shore. It is another cloudy and rainy day.
In the foreground you see one of our tenders coming in and another headed back to the ship.
©Jean Janssen

A dive boat ready to head out from the shore of Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

I am kicking myself today. With no dive buddy and no diving organized on the ship, I had given up on the idea of scuba diving in French Polynesia. We are in Rangiroa and of course the first thing you hear about the island is how fabulous the diving is. I brought no gear (easily overcome) and no Certification card (not so easily overcome). We tendered in and found outfitters right along the beach where the boat docked. I’m an idiot.

Anyone headed this way should at least bring snorkel gear. A reef reached easily by boat from the pier offers wonderful snorkeling-the best of the trip according to some cruisers. If you want to stay dry, you can still see the fish from a glass bottom boat. Want to say a little cash? With your own gear you can snorkel right off the beach.

I braided this headband out of palm leaves and added the local flowers with the assistance of an islander. In Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia

At our dock, there were vendors selling handicrafts-mostly jewelry made from local finds. There was also a woman with fresh flowers and palm leaves that would help you make a headband of flowers. After making mine, Boris and I headed down the beach to a nearby resort. We are on a narrow part of the island and we crossed to see the rough side with its serious waves.

chandelier made of shells at the Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa on Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

The ship is anchored on the side of the island with the calm water. The Hotel Kia Ora Resort and Spa was on the point of the island with the water bungalows on the calm side. The rain came just as we reached the resort lobby with it’s beautiful shell chandeliers. There was an activities desk, but it doesn’t appear the island offers a wide variety of options. The drivable part of the island is only 7 miles long. It is a beautiful location and the water is warm and clear so with the right agenda Rangiroa could be a perfect choice.

The Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa on Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia. They denied us access to the resort via the beach, but we went around to the front entrance and were able to go to the bar. We went back along the beach.
©Jean Janssen

The glass bottom bar at the Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa on Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

When the rain let up, we headed to the hotel bar with its glass bottom. I tried the signature drink at the Miki Miki Bar made with multiple rums and coconut ice cream and added the drink flowers to my headband. We enjoyed our drinks while watching the rain on the water and the fish below the bar platform. After another downpour, we walked back along the beach passing the multiple dive and snorkel shops and enjoying the water under our feet.

home of a local resident on Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

Rangiroa is part of the Tuamotu archipelago and the biggest atoll of French Polynesia. It is two islets separated by a pass. There are two main villages, one on each pass. The rest of the island is almost uninhabited. Rangiroa is a “real natural aquarium” and was classified by Cousteau as one of the most beautiful and elaborate sites in the world. Lots of variety for divers, but I would have loved to see the sharks-grey, white tip, black tip, and hammerhead-that inhabit these waters.

I liked this wall of a shop along the beach made of palm leaves or straw
on Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

Like the rest of French Polynesia, Rangiroa has the waters for producing the Tahitian black pearl. “Black” refers to the black lip pearl oyster shell; the pearls themselves come in a wide variety of colors. The biggest pearl farm on the island, Gauguin’s Pearl, employs 50 local workers and has a large impact on the island’s economy.

Rangiroa is also known for its vineyards with vines that grow on the edge of the lagoon. The atoll is free of the insects that harm the vines and the fruit, making it an ideal location. Three grape varietals are grown on the atoll, but other fruit is very scarce on the island.

Rangiroa is a narrow island and we made the walk from one side to the other. Boris took a rest stop on an electrical box at one point.
©Jean Janssen

For me, given the diving options available, I would rank Rangiroa among my favorites of the islands we have visited in French Polynesia.

This is our last full day on the Marina. Although we dock in the early morning as in most cruise itineraries, I will not leave the ship until 4 pm due to the flight schedule. Of course you could book a day room, go on an excursion, or leave the ship for additional vacations days in the area. Boris is going to do some historical touring, but my plan is to stay on board.

We met Mary and Richard on our excursions and enjoyed many meals with them aboard the Marina. On Bora Bora where this was taken, we shared the 4-person jeep with them. Mary is originally from Houston, but the couple now live in Fort Lauderdale.
©Jean Janssen

Tonight is my last high tea, mass with Bishop Robert Lynch from St. Petersburg, Florida, and dinner in our favorite specialty restaurant Red Ginger. We’ll close the night with a concert by our favorite performing artist.

If I find a performer I like aboard, I usually become a groupie for the cruise and watch for them on the daily schedule. This cruise we have enjoyed pianist Constantine Dragulyou, a young man from Romania far too talented to be playing on a cruise ship. He has taken full advantage of modern technology and uses a computer instead of sheet music. I took a look one night and realized he usually just has a play list up and performs from memory. He showed me how he can pull music up from his storage if he is less familiar with a song. One evening, Boris asked for a song he didn’t know. He apologized for the delay, pulled the music from the Internet, and played a lovely version of The Last Time I Saw Paris for the first time.

Our final sail-away as we pass through the two islets of Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Constantine Dragulyou, French Polynesia, Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa, Oceania Marina, Rangiroa, Tuamotu Islands | Leave a comment

Survivor of Nuku Hiva in the Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on February 4, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Welcome to the Marquesas Archipolago in French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

Today we arrived in the largest of the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia, Nuku Hiva. Nuku Hiva was the site for the 4^th installment of the popular television show Survivor and has been written of by famed authors and poets including Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson.

Oceania’s Marina was anchored in the lagoon of Nuku Hiva formed by a collapsed volcanic crater.
©Jean Janssen

The lagoon where we anchored was extraordinarily beautiful. Unlike the other islands where the lagoons were formed by the barrier reefs, Taiohae bay was created by the collapse of a volcanic crater. We will be anchored here for two days, omitting our other Marquesas port due to safety concerns.

We arrived in Nuku Hiva in the afternoon. I spent the morning at the Culinary Center in my second cooking class, learning how to make crepes. I had a fun partner today, Randy. He is traveling with a group of family and friends who were all in the class. His girlfriend is an artist and she was taking advantage of the classes in the Artists’ Loft. Randy has taken cooking classes at home-he recommends the ones that include wine.

The beautiful rugged landscape of the Marquesas.
On Nuku Hiva.
©Jean Janssen

Chef Annie learned how to make crepes from Julia Child. However, even a well-trained teacher couldn’t help me with my first two crepes; they were disastrous. A batter change and more experience and I finished the class with several attractive crepes. No matter their beauty, all the crepes I made tasted delicious. We made three different varieties today and Chef Annie also demonstrated a few other options that we got to sample. I left class full again.

Arrival in Nuku Hiva, the Marquesas, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

In spite of being the largest of the Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva has no public transportation. After going ashore on the tender we were dispatched to the islanders’ private 4-wheel drive vehicles for our tour. The arrival greeting at the pier was the best yet with the chanting inhabitants in full native dress-nearly naked bodies and tattoos (the men that is; the women were modestly dressed).

Our driver spoke no English, but Boris conversed with her in French. His command of multiple languages comes in very handy at times. At designated meeting points all the vehicles-each holding 3 or 4 guests-parked and an English-speaking guide addressed the group. Our guide was obviously of Continental French descent, but she wore traditional Marquesas dress and jewelry and spoke warmly of the people.

Along the roadside in Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia. See saw horses everywhere on the island.
©Jean Janssen

The scenery was breathtaking with multiple bays with beautiful black sand beaches and lush rocky peaks. There were horses all over the island and we also saw more goats and cattle than found on our other stops. Of all the islands we had visited in French Polynesia, I found Nuku Hiva the most clean. The homes, while simple and modest, were all inviting and decorated with wonderful foliage and flowers. We were treated to tasty taro chips, fruit, and fried bananas prepared by our hosts.

One of Nuku Hiva beautiful black sand beaches, Marquesas, French Polynesia.©Jean Janssen

One of Nuku Hiva’s beautiful black sand beaches, Marquesas, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

The society is very traditional with the men working and the women managing the home and children. The men also do beautiful wood craving and the women make jewelry in black, white, and red from the native seeds. The island is not set up for large-scale tourism. There is one simple hotel and the restaurants were mostly open air stands along the beaches.

After our tour, we went back to the ship for our reservations in Toscana, the ship’s Italian specialty restaurant. The pasta trio was a wonderful course with a specially designed plate for presentation. Other than the pasta and the bread selection, the rest of my meal was ho hum and Boris agreed. While we had wonderful service and the option to choose your own olive oil and vinegar was a nice touch, Toscana was our least favorite specialty restaurant.

Enjoying the grasses along the beach on Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

The island dancers had been invited to the ship since we had an unanticipated overnight in Nuku Hiva. We watch them arrive beating their drums via our balcony. We missed the show due to our restaurant reservations, but they replayed it on our stateroom TV.

On the second day, we went ashore to walk along the beach and visit the handicrafts market. Boris got a wonderful carved wood cane and I got a gift for Rocky, a manta ray carved out of wood with a wonderful tail made of bone. The dancers were once again performing near the market. A small child tried to mimic the move of the war dance and his mother added a grass skirt so he could look the part.

Everyone wants to get into the act. War dances on Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

Ceremonial Grounds, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia ©Jean Janssen

Ceremonial Grounds, Nuku Hiva,
Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

We returned to the ship for a late lunch on the terrace of the café on the back of the ship under cloudy skies but with no rain. It was the first time I had ever returned to the ship dry. I love the view of this lagoon.

The Vaipo Waterfall, the highest in French Polynesia and the 4^th highest in the world, is located on Nuku Hiva. We were told that after a boat ride to reach the closest point, it was a tough 2-hour hike in and another 2-hour hike back if you wanted to see it. Our young friend Noah, an experienced hiker and a member of Boris’ trivia team, made it in 2½ hours roundtrip. He said it was spectacular. Noah was on what was supposed to be the last tender back to the ship. Scheduled to leave the dock at 5:30 for the less than 10-minute trip to the Marina, we watched the tender pull in with Noah at 6:00. We were going to give him a hard time about being late and making us all wait when we saw another tender head back to shore.

One of the bays of Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, French Polynesia. Think Survivor.
©Jean Janssen

Although the ship was scheduled to leave the lagoon at 6pm (all aboard was 5:30), about 6:15 another tender headed back to shore. Boris got the story later at trivia. (Since the Cruise Director runs the very competitive trivia, it seems the participants always know the pulse of the ship.) A female hiker got lost about 2 pm; she was alone with no cell phone. She wandered for hours and finally found a small home with “two 400-pound men” inside and she paid them $100 to drive her to the pier. The Marina had notified the police who contacted the ship when she was on her way down. The woman rejoined the ship and went back to her cabin and cried for 5 hours. She herself told the guests about her experience when she finally came out for trivia. Drama at sea.

Interior of the island of Nuku Hiva, Marquesas, Islands, French Polynesia. I loved this island.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Chef Annie Copps, French Polynesia, Marquesas Islands, Nuku Hiva, Survivor | Leave a comment

Natasha does some cruise cooking-Sea Day on Oceania’s Marina

Posted on February 3, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Natasha checks out the Society Islands of French Polynesia

A rainy sea day can be the perfect time to enjoy a book by the “fire” in the library aboard Oceania’s Marina.
©Jean Janssen

We don’t have many sea days on this cruise, but today was our first. It is also our first day without rain so normally you would find me out at the pool all day. However, I have signed up for a cooking class. Most ships offer cooking demonstrations as part of their on board programming. However, Oceania offers the only cooking classes at sea with a hands-on experience. Their two new ships, the Marina and the Rivera, both have full culinary centers with student stations for 24 guests. Of course there is a charge for the class, but it is very reasonable for the two-hour experience. The cooking classes on this itinerary are all fully booked.

Traditionally, the islanders kept their boats raised to protect the wood from rotting out. Even though most of the boats are now made from fiberglass, the tradition of the raised boat continues.
©Jean Janssen

Fortunately, I booked ahead on-line and was able to get into all of the three classes I was interested in. Today we are preparing a brunch menu. You have a partner and we shared a cooking station. To move things along, some of the prep work was done for us. Each team had its own equipment. The classes offer something for the novice as well as the seasoned cook. My partner was an experienced cook, but she felt she did get something out of the class. This was my first experience at a hands-on class.

Chef Natasha. Chef Annie did have to remind us at times that this was a cooking and not eating class. Aboard the Oceania Marina in the South Pacific

I learned how to make perfectly poached eggs, a vegetable frittata, scones, and a root vegetable hash. Latkes and poached salmon were prepared by demonstration. Any teacher who starts the class by serving everyone a mimosa is all right by me. Our instructor was Annie Copps, a frequent guest on the NBC Today Show.

Chef Annie was entertaining while conveying a great deal of information. It wasn’t just about the recipes either. Knife types, opening a champagne bottle, and basic cooking techniques were also covered. I learned some wonderful knife skills!!

The motu's fire pit oven near Bora Bora in the South Pacific.©Jean Janssen

After class, I crossed the pool deck (on the same level of the ship) and all the chairs were full. It is a testament to how great the class was that I didn’t regret attending rather than snagging a lounge chair at the pool. I headed back to the room and coated myself in sunscreen after that unforeseen sunburn in Raiatea. (Boris is once again at trivia. His team is undefeated.) After adding a cover-up, I headed back to the pool deck. The gods were smiling on me. After a brief shower had sent guest scurrying for cover, chairs in the “sun” were now open. Got one. It was never hot, but I got a tiny bit of sun and didn’t add to my burn. My back is now peeling.

Why you come to the south pacific…the beautiful clear water and white sand beaches. Near Bora Bora in French Polynesia
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Bora Bora, Chef Annie Copps, Culinary Center, French Polynesia, Oceania, Oceania Marina | Leave a comment

Bora Bora in the South Pacific

Posted on February 2, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

We are in Bora Bora today with an overnight at this destination. Originally the name was Pora Pora; there is no B in the Tahitian language, but visitors misheard it. This is actually a smaller island than some of the others we have visited, but with 10 operating resorts tourism is much better developed. Stay at the high-end resorts like the Four Seasons or St. Regis and you might run into celebrities like Nicole Kidman who stayed here on her honeymoon. Rooms start at $800 with villas like Nicole’s costing $10,000 per night.

Typical over-the-water bungalows as resort accommodations in Bora Bora©Jean Janssen

Most of these newer resorts are built a motu, one of the small islands just off the coast of Bora Bora. The iconic Hotel Bora Bora, built over 30 years ago, featured the first over-the-water bungalows on stilts. The hotel occupies the prime position on the island, but is currently closed. All of the newer hotels are built in the water bungalow style that we have also seen on the other islands.

The privacy of the motu makes it a popular destination even for the islanders who may have a second house on a motu to get away from other people. The irony of the need to get away for an inhabitant who lives on a sparsely populated island was not lost on me. The island’s airport is also on a motu. When you arrive in Bora Bora, you will still need to take a boat to reach the island or (depending on your hotel) may be taken directly to your hotel by the resort’s private boat.

One of the island's most popular tourist destinations is Bloody Mary's established in 1979.©Jean Janssen

Tourism is the business of Bora Bora. The high number of resorts has created its problems, but the island has adapted-even building a plant to convert sea water to drinking water to meet the high demand. As we took our circular tour of the island, we saw the landing platforms for the major resorts where they pick up their workers to take them to the motu. There were some pretty nice cars parked there. As we learned on an earlier tour, minimum wage here is set at European standards by the French government who controls the islands.

Island tour of Bora Bora. Yes, it was cloudy and raining again.©Jean Janssen

About 70% of the islanders are Protestant and we saw churches in each of the three towns on Bora Bora. Another dominant building is the “meeting house” used for all types of community gatherings. The meetings houses are associated with the Protestant churches, but used by people of all faiths.

There are no cemetaries on Bora Bora.
A loved one’s tomb is erected on the family’s property,
sometimes filling the entire yard.
©Jean Janssen

There are no cemeteries in Bora Bora. When a member of the family dies, the tomb is erected right on the property.

Like the other islands, Bora Bora is surrounded by a barrier reef. Unlike the other islands, there is only a single opening to that reef. For that reason-the need to defend only one opening-it was chosen by the Americans to be their headquarters during WWII. We saw one WWII ammunition bunker along our drive that is currently used by residents for shelter during a hurricane. There are also eight remaining American cannons on the island.

Handicraft market on Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

The island has a large handicrafts market where the best deals are the colorful and beautifully decorated cloths use for sarongs, tablecloths, or to make clothing. There are also commercially made sarongs, not unique in any way or than the name of island being stamped on them, that sold for a much higher price. The shell jewelry was also reasonably priced. The main town, where the tender dropped us off was also the site of a row of jewelry stores selling the “black” Tahitian pearl, loose or set in an infinite variety of ways. This is where you can spend the big bucks.

Interior of Bloody Mary's on Bora Bora built in the traditional Polynesia style. It even has a sand floor.©Jean Janssen

The island hot spot, at least for tourists, was Bloody Mary’s established in 1979. It features traditional Tahitian architecture and a sand-bottomed floor. You check your shoes at the door. People were not there for the décor though. You could have lunch, but most headed straight to the bar or the t-shirt shop. (I thought I was at a Hard Rock Café for a minute.) The view from the pier at Bloody Mary’s was pretty spectacular.

You would never need a coat check in Bora Bora, but with sand floors I guess a shoes and sandals check is a necessity. Bloody Mary’s in French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

Since Bora Bora was a two-day stop, we are able to add to our activities. In addition to a circular island tour, shopping, and a stop at Bloody Mary’s, we also we on a lagoon cruise with a beach break. The islanders do a wonderful job of decorating their forms of transportation for visitors. Our bus tour featured fresh hibiscus and greenery along the windows (which are made of Plexiglas) and our lagoon cruise boat featured the same along with curtains of palm leaves and wrapped poles.

Our lagoon cruise on Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

The women wear garlands of flowers in their hair and the men hats made from palm leaves. Our lagoon cruise started with musical entertainment with traditional songs sang to the accompaniment of the small island guitar and an improvised drum-the casement for the steering column.

We thought our first stop would be for reef snorkeling, but got a surprise when the tame stingrays greeted us. Our guide shared tuna with the rays and they liked brushing up against you until they realized that you weren’t the source of the smell. You really didn’t even need the mask and snorkel, as you could see the rays easily in the clear waist-deep water. (I thought his a more natural experience than the overly commercialized Stingray City in the Cayman Islands that I have also visited.)

Tiki idol found on our motu stop on Bora Bora, Society Islands, French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

We next went to a motu where some snorkeling was possible even in the shallow water. The current was strong here, so you had to watch where you were going. From the motu and while riding around the lagoon, you got wonderful views of the island and the peak of Mount Otemanu.

I loved Bora Bora. It is my favorite of the Society Islands we have visited. Tomorrow is a sea day and then we arrive at a new archipelago, the Marquesas Island group. Still hoping for that sunshine.

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Bloody Mary's, Bora Bora, French Polynesia, Society Islands | 1 Comment

Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia

Posted on February 1, 2013 by travelbynatasha

Day 4 and we are visiting our fourth island in the Society Islands in French Polynesia. We are on Raiatea, the second largest of the society islands. The traditional name for the island was Havai’i, until the name was adopted by another group of islands closer to home. Raiatea is the most sacred island in in the South Pacific. The name means “faraway heaven” and “sky with soft light”. Raiatea serves as the educational center for several of the surrounding islands; colleges on Raiatea provide secondary school to students who are local residents as well as children from the regional islands of Bora Bora, Tahaa, Huahine, Maupiti.

We have been anchoring and tendering into the islands, but today we are parked right at the pier. There is an old open air market building that now serves as a tourist information center and there is a shopping mall at the pier making it look more like a Caribbean port than what we have seen on the other islands in French Polynesia.

Our cruise on the Faaroa River on Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia. Bernadette is in the middle wearing the native headdress.
©Jean Janssen

Today we are taking a cruise on the lagoon and down the Faaroa River with a stop at a motu, a small island just off the main island . We were able to transfer directly from the pier to our outrigger canoe for the trip. Guess what? Lots of rain and we are soaked again. From the lagoon we are able to see many beautiful waterfalls on the island. We have a wonderful tour guide, Bernadette, who gave us insight into the island, river, and French Polynesia. She used to live on Bora Bora and was even cast in the Dina De Laurentiis 1979 remake of Hurricane starring Jason Robards and Mia Farrow. Bernadette played Siva, Max Von Sydow’s local pregnant wife. (as an interesting aside, Roman Polanski was slated to direct and was part of most of the preproduction and selected Bora Bora-our next stop-as the site for the film; but he was sent to jail as part of his infamous 1977 arrest and had to be replaced.)

On most days, I suspect a kayak ride down the Faaroa river would be quite peaceful giving you a chance to view the beautiful fauna and wave to the people who live and work along the shore. Today, with multiple tour boats, the kayaks struggled to stay upright.

After my swim, on the motu off Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia.

After our lagoon and Faaroa river cruise, we went to a motu for some beach and swimming time. Bernadette stayed on the outrigger. Boris did struggle to get ashore having difficulty with the ladder. I ventured out into the water, unlike most people. It was beautiful, clear, and warm. The motu also had beautiful soft white sand, with shells and rocks only along the shoreline. It had stopped raining, but the sky was full of gray clouds. Most people just explored the motu.

Resident off the motu checking his fish trap, Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia. ©Jean Janssen

There were some people living on this motu with their own fish trap. They have to live there to be constantly on the lookout for poachers. We saw three poachers with plastic bags headed the way of the fish trap as we were leaving. Bernadette say they would check to see if the family was there. If not, they would head out to the fish trap and take what they wanted. Since I saw the husband out there collecting fish while I was swimming, I suspect the trap was pretty empty anyway.

After our excursion, we went back to the boat for dry clothes and a light lunch. Boris and I went back ashore to explore the town and check out the handicrafts. There is a large market and sales people ready to make you “great deals”. Their tactics left a bad taste in my mouth so I headed over to the huts along the pier instead. I went into one where I found a beautiful necklace made of woven straw and decorated with shells. There was a older gentleman and a young woman in the hut. When I asked if she was the artist, she told me the man was. He was a fisherman and collected the shells and then made the assorted jewelry. The price was also better than the handicraft market. I admired all his work and then he even offered me an additional $10 off and added a shell paperweight to my bag. Actually, the talking was all done by the young woman who I suspect was there for her language skills. I like the story behind this necklace as much as the beautiful piece itself.

Tonight we tried the Red Ginger, an Asian fusion restaurant found only on the Oceania Marina and Rivera. This is a beautiful restaurant where you greeted by a waterwall. I had a spicy tiger prawn appetizer, a duck and watermelon salad, and lobster pad thai. All were fabulous. The restaurant wasn’t full, but when word gets out I suspect it will be packed. Hope we can come back later in the cruise. In addition to the regular menu, you were presented an extensive tea menu to choose from. As another nice touch, they brought a lovely black box to your table and you could make your own chopstick selection. The magic finger towel came to your table looking like a tablet and the server poured water on it transforming it into a towel. Wonderful touches that added to the experience.

An even smaller motu than the one we stopped at. Off Raiatea, Society Islands, French Polynesia. ©Jean Janssen

We had a full day and with Bora Bora tomorrow, we decided to skip the comedian and head to bed. My back was starting a feel a little warm and I suspected I had gotten more sun than I thought through those gray clouds.

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Bora Bora, Faaroa River, fish traps, French Polynesia, Hurricane, Raiatea, Society Islands | 1 Comment

Moorea and Huahine, Society Islands in French Polynesia

Posted on January 29, 2013 by travelbynatasha

In Moorea, we were greeted at the pier by musicians in native dress.©Jean Janssen

We started our first full day aboard the Marina with a lifeboat drill, far too early on the day after a late arrival. Today we have our first excursions on the island of Moorea. Boris and I usually go together, but today he has a island tour and I am going on a photography excursion. Dressed in long thin white sleeves to protect myself from the sun, I headed out on the makeshift jeep along with 6 other would-be photographers.

Moorea in the Society Islands of French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

Did I mention it was raining? First thing, our guide told us that limited visibility meant that we would not be visiting the interior of the island. Of course this is what made our tour unique and why we paid the big bucks. Then we proceeded to make several unremarkable stops seeing nothing I hadn’t in seen in multiple locations before.

Moorea is only 12 miles from Tahiti and French Polynesia’s second-most popular tourist attraction; Tahiti is the first. Known for its beautiful interiors, Moorea is also unique among the Society Islands for having long white sand and black sand beaches.

View from one of the beautiful white sand beaches of Moorea in French Polynesia

Oceania had serious problems with the excursion departures this morning. Mine left 40 minutes late. Others were an hour late. They were calling open tenders for other cruisers while we waited-not the way to make tired guests who have bought your excursion tickets happy. If people failed to show up, they held the entire group, ok for a short time but not 30 minutes or more. The mid cruise questionnaires will be full of this.

The vanilla bean, a major Tahitian export©Jean Janssen

After boarding the jeep, we stopped at a beach, vanilla farm, Magic Mountain lookout point, and a hotel with a dolphin center. We had drizzle off and on, but as we headed out on foot to the dolphin center the skies opened up. Not the day to we wearing a white shirt. I flipped my backpack around and wore it in the front in an attempt to be less revealing and not acquire a reputation on the first day of the cruise.

Can’t puplish the fullsize version of the photo. I am totally soaked by the rain, but that didn’t stop me from taking a photo with a cute Tahitian bellhop. When not being photographed, I wore my backpack in front to cover the white-now sheer-top

When we got back to the pier, I went straight to the tender skipping all the crafts and vendors. Dry clothes were my mission. Boris got back even later than I did, so lunch was late today. We did a little ship exploring and made our reservations for the specialty restaurants. Neither of us felt like going back ashore. I don’t feel that I got to experience what Moorea really has to offer.

Tonight we tried our first specialty restaurant, The Polo Grill, an on-board steakhouse. With our veranda level room we are guaranteed a visit to each of the four specialty restaurants at no additional charge. Suite guests get to make addition priority bookings. Later in the cruise, you can try to add additional visits if available. With a fully booked ship, this may be unlikely. Polo Grill is also on the other Oceania ships. We really liked it on the Nautica, but neither of us were that impressed with our steaks on this visit.

From Magic Mountain on Moorea, we could clearly see the opening in the barrier reef that surrounds the island and creates the calm lagoon where we anchored.
©Jean Janssen

Still tired, our next day we stopped at the island of Huahine, also part of the Society Islands. Although far less visited than Tahiti, Moorea, and Bora Bora, it is one of the most geographically diverse islands of this archipelago. It has beautiful long white sand beaches. The people use the rich soil to harvest vanilla, melons, and banans.

the ruins of an ancient maeta, a Tahitian ceremonial temple found in the Royal city on Huasine in French Polynesia.©Jean Janssen

the ruins of an ancient marea, a Tahitian ceremonial temple found in the Royal Village on Huahine in French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

One thing that distinguishes Huahine is the density of the historical sites. We took a tour that allowed us to visit the Village of Maeva that has the largest concentration of pre-European Marae in Polynesia. We were fortunate to have an American archeologist who now lives in Huahine as our guide.

On Hiahine, Boys chased the blue-eyed eels in the village stream. The eels are considered sacred and not eaten in French Polynesia. ©Jean Janssen

On Huahine, Boys chased the blue-eyed eels in the village stream. The eels are considered sacred and not eaten in French Polynesia.
©Jean Janssen

This is the site of the Royal Village. Historically the island was divided like you would cut a pie among the various kings. All of the royal families had their homes in Maeva. The ruins of ancient Polynesian temples, or marae, are now carefully maintained and protected. A chief’s house, Fare Potee, has been reconstructed near the water. On the hillside there are hundreds of additional marae covered in brush that are yet to be made tourist-ready. “Huahine has the oldest recorded date of human occupation among the Society Islands.”

We made an additional stop at a local home where you could see the vanilla drying tables and purchase a sample of the native product. The drying tables haven’t been used in weeks due to the rain and production is behind schedule.

We stopped to see the village stream populated by blue-eyed eels, considered sacred. The village boys played in the stream while our guide went in to feed them. There were dozens of them ranging in size from three to six feet.

Ancient stone fish trap on Huahine in French Polynesia. The fish traps are still used today. ©Jean Janssen

Our final stop was to see the ancient stone fish traps built centuries ago. Many are still in use as a “free” way to get your fish. Better stake your claim or someone will come for your fish.

A mom and her children fish with a net near an ancient marea on Huahine in French Polynesia©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged archipelago, blue-eyed eels, fish traps, French Polynesia, Huahine, Matae, Morrea, Polynesian temple, Society Islands, vanilla bean, Village of Maeva | Leave a comment