So after that tremendous first full day on the Amazon and its tributaries, I didn’t think our naturalists could top it. It is always a toss up. Its nature; you never know what you will see. The schedule changed a bit today. There was no early morning tour, but instead of breakfast aboard the Amazon Aria we headed straight out with a promise of breakfast on the river.
Along the Amazon. Photo by Ricardo.Along the Amazon. Photo by Ricardo.
Early morning is a great time to be out with everything coming to life along the river. The cool breeze that passes through the boat is refreshing.
The morning was filled with more exotic bird finds. The beauty of the Amazon in the morning really came to life when we got the lead boat position. We had the opportunity to see the still, glasslike water of the PA Reserve completely undisturbed.
This morning we spotted several villages along the Amazon and families going about their daily routine. Although the larger villages have elementary schools (always a blue building), many have been underwater for most of the wet season and they are just drying out so the children will be heading back to school soon. We saw children out in the canoes fishing and they often gave us a friendly wave.
When the restaurant staff caught up with us, we enjoyed a fabulous breakfast tray complete with poached eggs with avocado, fruit salad, muffin, tea or coffee, and fresh squeezed juice right at our seats in the skiffs. Delicious and fun.
After breakfast, we headed off into a side lake with more water lettuce and tall grasses. One of our naturalists, Billy, appeared to be on a mission. Billy was always looking for the really cool stuff. Last night he was the one showing us the spiders and tarantulas and told us how rare it was to see those large schools of catfish at night. It came as no surprise that Billy was the one to find and get out of the tall grass our first anaconda of the trip. It is no easy feat getting it out of the water. He had spotted one yesterday, but it went under water before we got close enough to reach it.
Anyone that wanted a chance got to hold the anaconda. I was a little skeptical, but Leslie, one of four Brits on board, said I should come up with him to take a turn. Staff held the head, Leslie had the tail. I got my photo. They brought the two ends pretty close to my face. The also had the snake along my back and I could feel it squeezing me. Not the most attractive photo, but it sure is funny. The video is even better; you can see the reaction grow. So glad I took the chance.
Yep, Natasha and the Anaconda. Photo by Ricardo.
Boris didn’t take a turn, but that didn’t mean he wasn’t one with nature. He was the lucky recipient of a landing yesterday. He spent most of his afternoon skiff ride with a cricket sitting on his life preserver. Not be be outdone, today he once again found a friend that wanted to go along for the ride. He had both a before breakfast cricket, and an after breakfast one. Other boats would come up along side us just to see what animal had attached itself to Boris that day.
After a morning like that it was time for a break. We headed back to the Aria for lunch and to rest up before our afternoon jungle walk. We will have the opportunity to see some of the local villagers and purchase some of their handicrafts. There was a pretty heavy rain during the break and I was glad we were back on the ship.
After the return of the sun, it was even more hot and humid for our late afternoon jungle walk. The children who greeted us were delightful. They loved to be photographed and shown the pictures on your camera. They played with a single balloon and were enchanted. A local guide led us to the jungle walk path. The villagers had cut up tree trunks to set round steps. It was very slippery after the afternoon rain and it was an up and down trail that was a little challenging for me. I fell down the stairs in our home a few months ago, so the fear is probably more in my head than realistic. Actually the heat probably bothered me more. I was completely drenched when we finished.
We were with Roland and he took us up a secondary path to see a rubber tree (few and far between these days). The trees were marked with red and periodically during the day the worker had to return to move the spigot to a different part of the tree. It was very labor intensive work.
We had a local guide who found lots of interesting frogs for us in the jungle, along with a large tarantula. He worked with his machete, or his “second wife” as Billy likes to refer to these blades. We found out he is 80 years old. His hair is perfectly black and he moved with ease within the jungle. He put me to shame.
In addition to the rubber trees, there was other interesting trees. Some appeared to have multiple trunks (they grow that way naturally). There was another with lots of needles. The needles on the lower part of the trunk had been removed. These are the needles the villagers formerly used inside their blow guns. When he was growing up, Ricardo’s grandmother still had her blowgun in her room. All of the naturalists grew up in the Amazon.
We retuned to the Aria in time to catch the beautiful Amazon sunset. I was another amazing day along the Amazon River. And yes, today was all about Natasha and the Anaconda. Until tomorrow…
On our early morning tour the first day out, our skiff with only four guests was the first to spot a sloth in the Amazon Rainforest. Photo by Ricardo.
Our Amazon River Cruise is starting in Iquitos, Peru, a large city for the country with almost 500,000 residents (even more if you consider the squatters and the metro area) and a gateway city to the Amazon. It is the 9th largest city in Peru and the largest city in the world that can not be reached by car. It is only accessible by water or air. We were originally supposed to fly to Iquitos and then take a bus to Nauta, but the road is under construction so our ship, the Amazon Aria, is coming to Iquitos to pick us up here. The boat will then sail all night toward Nauta.
Along the Amazon. Photo by Ricardo
Our tour is booked through Uniworld with a package that includes a stay in Lima, the Amazon River Cruise, transfers within Peru and travel to historic Inca sites, including Manchu Picchu. If you just wanted the River adventure, you could still book the experience on the Amazon Aria through Aqua Adventures.
When we arrived in Iquitos, the naturalist staff for the Aria was all there to meet us. They pulled our bags, tagged them for our rooms on the ship and welcomed us with food and drinks for our bus ride into town for lunch at the Iron House Restaurant, the façade and balcony of which were designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Paris’s Eiffel Tower fame). The iron structure was dismantled, shipped to Peru, and rebuilt on Iquitos’ main square, Plaza de Armas.
On the ride in, one of our trip leaders Roland, nicknamed the professor, gave us some background on the city. Iquitos was the first city in Peru to have a train line to reach it. It was also the first city in the country to get electricity. During the late 19th century, Iquitos was the center of the rubber industry in Peru. The country was stripped of its rubber trees with the native people performing the heavy labor under slave-like conditions in the rainforests. There were never rubber plantations in Peru, but 60,000 seeds were smuggled out with the plants eventually being sent to Southeast Asia where rubber tree plantations were established given the similar climate. After decimating the rubber tree population in Peru, the rubber industry in the country collapsed.
From the Iron House balcony we had a view of Plaze de Armas, the square where a stage and booths were set up for a festival. It was Friday evening and people would soon be off work for the weekend. I enjoyed a very late lunch of ceviche and a stir-fried beef prepared with Peruvian spices. The table was decorated with small colorful animals handmade from native products.
Next, we reboarded our bus for the trip to the harbor. Life jackets were distributed to us at the pier. We will use these lightweight jackets throughout the week whenever we board the skiffs. We took the tour skiffs out to meet our boat. Our luggage had already been transferred and was waiting in our room. It was almost completely dark when we reached the Amazon Aria.
There are three levels to the boat. The embarkation level has a hallway open on both ends with cushioned benches. This is where you board the skiffs and apply your bug repellent. There are also 8 guest suites for 16 guests on this level. On level two, there are 8 additional rooms, the gift shop, camera storage, and the ship’s restaurant with glass on 3 sides. On level three, there is a large shaded hot tub outside and a large interior lounge with the bar. The lounge is also used for group lectures and meetings. Additionally, there is small workout room and single massage room on the third level.
Along the Amazon River. Photo by Ricardo.This daytime photo of the Aria taken the week of our visit by Ricardo helps show the layout of the boat. On the 1st level, the midship breezeway open at both ends is the embarkation point. To the right are the windows for 4 guest rooms on both the first and second floors with a similar set up on the opposite side for a total of 16 guest rooms. On the left, the kitchen is on the first level and the dining room is on the second. the windows on the third level are for the lounge, massage room, and work out room. The hot tub and patio is on the third level on the right side end of the ship with the covering.
There was a brief safety briefing on level one to show us how to use the (other) emergency life jackets and then we had free time to unpack. Tonight dinner was not until 8 pm since we had such a late lunch. Dining is open seating with tables seating 4 each. Breakfast is s buffet with made to order eggs and another special offering served at your table. Lunch and Dinner are served family style with multiple courses; wine is served at both lunch and dinner. Almost all the drinks are included in the tour price. The daily menu is printed and available at each table. While there are multiple courses, you do not make selections; all guests receive the same meal. The chef does make adjustments for dietary concerns. I do not eat chocolate and I always received an alternate item whenever chocolate was served.
Along the Amazon River. Photo by Ricardo.
During dinner we had a preview of the activities for the next day. We learned that the naturalists rotate leadership among themselves regarding heading up the daily program. We were also encouraged to tour with all of the naturalists. Boats are assigned randomly upon arrival at the embarkation area. Each day, the schedule is written on a chalkboard near the gift shop on the second floor.
Amazing and unique birds fill the Amazon Rainforest. Photo by Ricardo.
Tomorrow there is an optional tour in the morning at 6 am for bird watching. That is not necessarily my thing, but I don’t want to miss out. We will get a wake-up call at 5:30 am. The daily highs in the Amazon reach almost 90 degrees Fahrenheit year-round (32 degrees Celsius). The Amazon has a hot and humid climate. We have been encouraged to wear long-sleeve shirts and long pants made of a breathable fabric. In addition to heat waves, the area also contends with the possibility of flooding and earthquakes.
The guest rooms feature a wall that is floor to ceiling glass so you always have a view of the Amazon River. The room is big for a cruise ship and has a king-sized bed, two nightstands, a built-in bench and closet and a small side table. The vanity area opens into the room with a separate enclosed space with the shower and toilet. The shower is large for a cruise ship and features a rain head shower head and grab bar.
First Morning on the Amazon River, a Lineated Woodpecker. Photo by Ricardo
In an odd twist, Boris decided to sleep in the next morning and I got up for the early tour. He is the early riser and I usually don’t hit my stride until about 11 am. There were only 4 on my boat, but we were the first (and only ones in the early morning) to see a sloth. We also saw a wonderful red detailed woodpecker and many other birds. I love the kingfishers that are plentiful and skim just about the surface of the water. We returned to the ship after about an hour and had time to enjoy breakfast before the regular morning tour.
We are skirting the natural preserve along the Peruvian Amazon. Although many countries claim the birthplace of the Amazon, its origin is actually high in the Andes Mountains of Peru where the snow melts and flows down. At the convergence of the Maranon and Ucayali Rivers in Peru, the Amazon is born. We are visiting the convergence point today and continued to spot unique animals (especially birds), trees and plants along the way. As we reached the convergence spot, we have our first sighting of the Amazon River Dolphins, also known as pink dolphins. They look nothing like our bottleneck dolphins. These creatures have a long snout. Although there is some gray, they are almost entirely pink in color. This type of dolphin is not particularly playful with humans. They were more stressed by our appearance than anything else.
A squirrel monkey in the Amazon Rainforest. Photo by Ricardo.
We saw lots of wonderful things on this morning excursion including some remarkable birds, tree frogs, more sloths, and the ever playful squirrel monkeys that travel in large groups. We would just sit in an area for a while and enjoy the show in the trees.
First Full Day out on the skiffs along the Amazon. Photo by Ricardo
There are lots of small boats on the Amazon from the common small narrow wooden boat or canoe to slightly larger boat with cover which serve help natives to move from community to community along the Amazon where there is no or limited connection by land. We are traveling in skiffs, shallow-bottomed metal boats with fixed (and comfortable) seats. The skiffs are powered by motor.
Love this Polka-Dot Tree Frog Spotted our first morning out on the Amazon. I got a picture, but Ricardo’s is better.Another Ricardo photo of the Polka-dot Tree Frog
Timing is everything in the Amazon. The Peruvian winter is just starting. The country has three distinct ecosystems. In the Amazon, there are only two seasons-high and low-dictated by the level of the water. The low season is only in its second week, but we can already see that the water level has dropped significantly by the water marks on the trees. Carlos told us that during the high-water season it is mostly bird watching. In the low season you see more mammals.
Boris and Natiasha enjoying our Pisco Sours aboard the Amazon Aria. Photo by Richardo
After our morning excursion in the skiffs, it is back to the ship for a bit of a break before lunch at 12:30 pm. At noon there is an optional cooking demonstration. Our cabin stewards also got into it with a towel demonstration and our bartender Carlos showed us how to make the national drink, a Pisco Sour.
After lunch, we had another break and then headed out for a late afternoon/twilight Cruise. Today we were introduced to the water lettuce that covers many of the tributaries of the Amazon. It is simply floating vegetation. Unfortunately, it can completely cover the water and deprive the creatures below of sunlight and oxygen. The manatees previously controlled its growth, but they are hunted for food and are now endangered. The water lettuce does have a pretty look and you don’t always realize you are traveling through a large body of water until the skiff makes a path through it. We crossed many lakes completely covered in green water lettuce. If it clogs the engine, the driver simply reserves the engine, dispelling it or pulls it out.
We had a wonderful time. We enjoyed finding more sloths, watching the squirrel monkeys at play, spotting both the Cayman Lizard (red head) and the green iguana, and more hawks and vultures. We saw our first ranger station in the Pacaya Samiria Reserve; the stations are usually positioned just as you enter one of the river’s tributaries. One of the best things about this time of day was that the ride was cool and it was nice to just be quiet and take in the beauty of the river and listen to the sounds of the jungle. With so few boats around, the water was like glass and it sometimes looked as if you were peering into a mirror as the tree line, sky, and vegetation was all reflected on the water. One comment about terminology. While scientists usually refer to the river banks and the surrounding growth as the rainforest, the locals just call it all the jungle. I’ll use both terms, but know in this case they refer to the same thing.
Along the Amazon. Photo by RicardoAlong the Amazon. Photo by Ricardo.
Throughout this post, we will see photos credited to Ricardo, one of the naturalists on our cruise. In addition to his spotting and guide duties, Ricardo took photographs throughout our visit and shared them. All the pictures he took were from the days we were aboard and are just better versions of what I photographed or saw on the specific days they are credited to.
I wasn’t able to capture much with my Iphone, although the pictures I took did help me remember what I saw each day. I did have some luck catching a squirrel money in flight as he leapt from tree to tree. These monkeys are tree dwellers. Due to the water bottom of their home, they spend very little time on the ground.
As we lost the light, we found lots of spiders and tarantulas. The day out ended with the viewing of a swirling school of catfish and piranhas, a sight the naturalists rarely see. They were captivated. Just when we thought we couldn’t see more, a red tree boa was spotted and observed by all. And that was just the first full day!!! My challenge to the naturalists…go ahead and try to top this. They did. Next up…Natasha and the Anaconda.
Boris and I are off again; this time on a river cruise on the Amazon River in Peru, followed by a visit to several Inca heritage sites, including Manchu Picchu. We are fortunate to be able to fly directly to the capital city of Lima, Peru from our home city of Houston, Texas, USA. Prior to going to the airport, we had to upload our passport and vaccine information (or COVID 19 test results). Additionally, you had to complete a questionnaire sponsored by the Peruvian government. The form was challenging; some of the questions were not intuitive or used terms or phrases that we were unfamiliar with (could have been the translation). Our forms kept being rejected. We assumed someone could help us or we could fill out a paper form at the airport, but not was not the case. Check-in was hectic. We struggled at the baggage counter to get the form uploaded. They finally let us check in; fortunately, we had gone to the airport very early given construction at IAH.
Peru has only one major international airport and one major commercial port, both are located in Callao where we landed. It was about a 40-minute drive to our hotel in Lima. We went in a day early since the direct flight didn’t land until 11 pm. After the long line at passport control, that we sweated through because Boris had the questionnaire in draft form only while I had an on-line acknowledgement, we picked up our bags and met our driver outside (among the sea of drivers). He was very friendly and exceptionally knowledgeable about Peru and the cruise details. We finally asked and found out he is our tour director Carlos. He likes to pick up as many of the guests as he can so he can get to know them early.
Our tour is limited to 32 participants, based on the cabin availability aboard the Amazon Aria, our river cruise ship. There will be 26 in our particular cruise tour. To begin the tour, we spend three nights in Lima at the Country Club Lima Hotel in of one the city’s most fashionable districts. In total there are 43 districts in Lima. We are near the city’s financial center. Carlos gave us some excellent advice about where to spend our free day in Lima.
Huaca Pucllana Lima, Peru
After a full night’s sleep, breakfast, and a trip to the ATM for some Peruvian soles (the local currency), I was ready to head out to the Larco museum nearby to see exhibits related to the country’s ancient history. Museo Larco’s permanent collection “takes an in-depth look at the Andean worldview and helps visitors to understand the development of pre-Columbian societies, through an impressive collection of objects.” The museum also has visible storage with over 30,000 cataloged pottery artifacts on display. The Larco Museum came highly recommended by several sources; the museum’s café was also recommended.
Huaca Pucllana, Lima, Peru
Boris had other plans. He wanted to take it easy for a while. He relaxed and napped, and we eventually took a cab to the Huaca Pucllana ruins for a tour and an early dinner at the museum restaurant overlooking the lighted ruins. Unfortunately, touring ended at 4:15, so we weren’t able to visit the entire site. A 2-3 hour tour is recommended. “Built [using] millions of adobe bricks, these ruins once served as an administrative center and a pre-Inca ceremonial site dedicated to the God Pachacamac.”
The restaurant seating is on a patio outside under a high canopy. Be sure to have reservations; the restaurant is very popular. The food and drinks were excellent. Of course, we started with the national drink, a Pisco sour. We each had three courses (more food than we needed) and multiple drinks and the bill was under $100. I had the parmesan crusted scallops and the lamb with Peruvian spiced risotto. I closed out the meal with caramel in a pecan shell pastry, one of the best desserts I ever had. It was a wonderful experience in a romantic setting.
The next morning, we met up with our tour group after breakfast at the hotel. We had a brief orientation and then a city tour by bus. Of the 33 million people that live in Peru, 12 million live in the capital city of Lima. Carlos handled the first part of the city tour and then a local guide led us through the historical parts of the city. I was having a problem with my camera, constantly having to remove the memory card and replace it, but I got some wonderful pictures of the square and the even a dignitary in Amazonian tribal wear entering the government building. We made it back to the main square in time to even catch a bit of the changing of the guard.
We had the special treat of lunch at the home of a family who has had their home near the square for 16 generations and trace back their heritage to one of the early Spanish “invaders” or “settlers” depending on how you look at the history. It was a gorgeous home with multiple apartments. Homes of this time period had three patios; a ceiling had been added to one of them. Their center atrium featured a multi-story tree with a fountain on the ground level. One story up the opening was surrounded by a balcony with multiple seating areas. Our family member guide told us this was her favorite place in the house. The family had a pair of antique vases presented to them by the emperor of Japan when a family member went there on a diplomatic mission. But it was also a family home, where the children played hide and a seek in the rooms with priceless treasures like the vases. A copy of the declaration of Peruvian independence is proudly displayed in the home.
Our 45-year-old guide is a sculptor. She lived in the home as a child. Her surviving uncle and the widow of another uncle, currently reside in two of the home’s apartments. She said that as a child she was embarrassed by her family’s wealth and the way she lived growing up, being aware of the poverty that plagued the country. However, she has come to appreciate the heritage of her family and the history of their home. She acknowledges that all conquering peoples have their brutal tactics and that every civilization, including the Incas, were not perfect or even humane.
We enjoyed a lovely lunch in the home before heading back to the bus for our return trip to the Country Club Lima Hotel. In the evening, we enjoyed a group dinner on the patio of the hotel restaurant. The dinner featured Peruvian specialties, some of which we had last night at the museum restaurant. If we count our first full day in Lima as the first day of the tour and the second day was Lima city tour day, then our third tour day will be for travel and arrival at our river boat.
Wondering where those wonderful pictures are? I discovered the next morning that nothing recorded on the memory card. After a few attempts with different cards, the camera appears to be broken. This will be an entirely different trip for me, given I am relegated to only using my Iphone. I am hopeful my fellow travelers will be willing to share.
After a limit of 3, 70-pound bags each on our trip down here on United, we had to get everything into a single 50-pound bag for each for the domestic flights in Peru. We transferred heavy things into our carry on to make the weight limit. After breakfast, we were taken by bus to the airport for our flight to Iquitos. Our bags had all been marked as belonging to the same tour group. Carlos efficiently got us through group check-in, security and boarding, and then we had just a short flight of less than two hours.
We have one more full day and then a travel day from Hawaii. Our flight doesn’t leave until 8:45 pm, so our travel day will afford us some beach time. The latest checkout I could get was noon. Today however, is a full day. No dinner reservations on our last night. We decided not to repeat anything and evening dining options are limited without a car. We could always use UBER, but we are in relaxation mode and just don’t want to make the effort. Besides, we need to eat up what is left in the refrigerator tonight.
I spilt time at the beach and the pool today. After two poolside cocktails, we ate lunch at Off the Hook. Boris had gotten us breakfast sandwiches from the quick service Ulu in the morning. I am usually a fan of eggs, cheese, and bacon on a croissant, but we both agreed these were awful. Fortunately, lunch at the Hook was consistently good, even great. I will admit that after Boris’ two double shot pina coladas, his lunch hotdog didn’t go down so well. My shrimp tacos were fabulous.
Aulani has a lot of different pools and chair areas to chose from. Unfortunately during our visit there were not seating areas or even a pool that was limited to adults only. There were plenty of couples and groups of adults to justify this type of area. There were times when I put my headphones in just to take a break from the kid noice. Of the flip side, this is great news for families; you can sit and jump in anywhere you want.
Boris headed up after lunch. I stayed down all day. I discovered that they had Dole Whip on property, the beloved snack at WDW’s Magic Kingdom and the Polynesian Resort (our home DVC resort). It was probably a good thing that I didn’t realize they had it earlier or I may have made it part of my daily routine. One option for dinner was to go across the street for pizza. Ulu also offers it, but we hadn’t heard great reviews from the other guests. However, Boris wasn’t up for going out so we finished off the snacks that we had in the refrigerator and sat on the balcony enjoying the music from the lounge as the sun (quickly) set. The pools are open until 8 pm, but they normally clear out by 6:00 pm just before it gets dark. There are some fun lights that outline the lazy river that look particularly cool at night.
Our last morning, I did a little packing before our last visit to Eggs and Things for breakfast right when they opened at 7 am. We were the first in the door. I had the pork chop and eggs with pancakes as a side today. We both thought that our first breakfast there was the best. I got the most of the rest of my packing done after breakfast and then headed down to the beach for my last opportunity in the sand. It was a beautiful clear day and the water was refreshing.
One of the things I really haven’t mentioned, but you should be aware of before you go to Aulani is that although this is a Disney resort, you will see very little Disney decor or references around the property. Even the characters are kind of tucked away. You have ask for the character greeting schedule and often the meeting place is around the side of the resort. One of the few permanent Disney features is a carved Stitch statue. Guests like to leave their leis there. They get cleared off and will reappear again, sometimes on his head and sometimes around his neck.
I stayed out until 11:15 am and then headed up for a shower and to pack the last of my things. We were out of the room at 12:02 pm right on schedule. After we left our suitcases at bag check at the front of the resort, we headed across the street to the Ko Olina shopping center to look around a bit and grab lunch. I actually would have waited and coordinated our visit there with the Monkeypod happy hour from 3:30-5 pm, but Boris wanted to go right away. I took along my almost empty tote in case I wanted to buy something. They charge for bags under Hawaiian state law.
I should probably back up a little and explain Ko Olina. It is referenced often in relation to the resort and I had trouble when I was filling out my Safe Travels form for Hawaii because I thought that was the name of the city. Ko Olina is actually the name of the development. Ko Olina features three resort hotels: Aulani, The Four Seasons, and a Marriott. There is also a condo section on the beach and a housing section for permanent residents that is not on the beach, but does afford a lovely view of the mountains. It is rounded out with the shopping center and the Golf Club and Course where Roy’s is. (As an aside, the James Beard winning Roy Yamaguchi, the owner for the golf club restaurant, was featured as a judge on the most recent-20th-season of Hell’s Kitchen with Gordon Ramsey.) The developed features several lagoons waterside.
The land on which the development sits is the driest part of the island of Oahu. This land was formerly sugar cane fields. In fact the railway lines for transporting the sugar cane are still in place. You cross them when walking to the shopping center or the golf club. Today we saw the train passing with tourists taking the short ride. They got dropped off at the shopping center where the Ko Olina development office is.
Our shopping was limited but successful. Boris found two Hawaiian shirts that he really liked including a new Christmas design one. It is subtle enough that you might not notice the strings of Christmas lights, that is to the extent any Hawaiian shirt can be subtle in its design. I found a brand of sandals I love that I first got on a previous trip to Hawaii. I bought 3 pair and some fur-lined loafers in the same OluKai brand which are probably post-surfing shoes to warm the feet. Afterwards, we went to Pizza Corner for a late lunch. The pizza was just ok. There are only a few tables available outside. All of their indoor dining is currently closed. They do a lot of takeout. We saw many people walking back over to the resort with their Pizza Corner boxes throughout our stay.
Afterwards we went back over to the resort and looked in the shops there before finding a comfortable chair near an outlet (for charging). I had a dry swimsuit in my tote bag and was tempted to go out to the pool, but didn’t. I regret it. If I have a do over, or another visit, I would use that time to go outside. I just hated the idea of having to fly with my body covered in sun tan lotion. The complementary changing rooms are currently not available due to COVID protocols.
Sitting inside also meant we had to wear masks. This was on top of airport time and flight time where masks will also be required. I used the time to read and would look up periodically to enjoy the view. I have read quite a few books on this trip. We went out to the bag drop early so I could transfer my purchases and my tote into my checked bag. Our driver was also early and we had smooth travel to the airport.
I asked the driver if they were still doing agricultural inspections and he said sometimes. It has been a long time since my last visit to Hawaii, but all mainland passengers had to do them then. Well they are still in place now and it looks like a pretty permanent set up. So, as you enter the airport your first stop should be to run the bags you are checking through the scanners and get your agriculture inspection stickers. They will send you back if you try to check bags before they have been inspected. Carry on bags are not scanned there; they’ll get you when you pass through TSA security.
After we cleared security, I stopped and picked up something to eat. I prefer to avoid eating the food on the plane if possible. Then we camped out waiting for boarding. I snapped some pictures of our wrist band collections. It is obvious who spent more time in the pool and on the beach. You were issued wrist bands daily when you went to pick up your towels. The DVC members got the groovy sparkly ones. I was there long enough that some of my early ones-a bright blue and royal blue-had already had the color all washed off. I am kind of proud of my collection. I would have had one more if I had gotten one the day we arrived when we just went and sat on the beach. I will cut them off when we get home.
Because there were empty seats on the plane (and were some on the way out too), there was some confusion as people shifted around. There was a young man who was blind who was seated in the row in front of me. I was impressed by how well he adapted. He had an assistant getting on the plane and the flight attendant were very available to him. I don’t know if I would have felt comfortable traveling alone with his disability; kudos to him.
I was just lucky that Emma and Maggie were at the airport at the same time when we arrived from Honolulu. They are headed to Disneyland in California for Dapper Days.
I was a shorter flight home, just over 7 hours. It is the time change that will really effect me plus the fact that I can’t really sleep on airplanes. I did some photo clean up and read during the flight. There were movies too. I got a nice surprise when we landed in Houston. IAH (Bush International Airport) in Houston is a five-terminal, huge international airport. Emma and Maggie were leaving from terminal E for California. They are going to Dapper Days at Disneyland. Our arrival gate was also in terminal E, so we were able to see each other briefly at the airport. It is pretty obvious from the picture which one of us is lacking sleep.
We are enjoying a 6 day-5 night stay at Disney’s Hawaiian Resort, Aulani, located on Hawaii’s most populous island Oahu where the capital Honolulu is located. Boris likes his sit-down-and-be-served breakfasts, so we started our day across the street from the resort at Eggs and Things. The Ko Olina location is relatively new, but the chain has been on Ohau since 1974. They operate four locations in Hawaii, one in Guam, and a special Japanese website. At 8:15 am on a Sunday the place was packed and we had a 20-minute wait for a table. You can put you name on the list online, but we didn’t know it until after this first visit. Upon arrival, we started with the vaccination card, ID, name and phone number drill. This breakfast spot opens at 7 am and serves until 2 pm daily.
Being the savory over sweet eater, I got the steak and eggs with potatoes as my side selection. With a meat and eggs, you could get a side of rice, potatoes, or three fluffy pancakes. Since I had the pancakes yesterday, I went with potatoes. This was already a large breakfast; pancakes would have set it over the top. Boris chose the pancakes as his side. It was really good food.
The couple at the table next to us had been at the resort for 8 nights and were heading home to Florida that day. Their greatest concern was staying awake for their 10:45 pm departure. They had chosen to “stay” on Eastern time for their trip, adjusting their activities to fit that schedule. Tonight they were going to be flying all night to get home to Florida. On the way to Hawaii, it was only one stop for them in Los Angeles. Going home, they were flying to Seattle, stopping in Phoenix, stopping in Atlanta, and then finally getting home to Tampa. They were celebrating their 40th wedding anniversary. They had met on Ohau when they were both in the military.
After breakfast, we went to the Island Market, an extended ABC store. The ABC stores are a chain that has been on the islands forever. I remember ABC stores as a place to get cheap souvenirs and inexpensive beach supplies you didn’t mind just leaving when you departed the island. All that is still at this store, but this location has an extended grocery section as well. I picked up bread, meats, cheese slices, crackers, chips, condiments, and drinks. You can even buy wine and hard liquor if you so desire. Boris did so desire.
So by the time we got back, put everything in the refrigerator, put on suntan lotion and our swimsuits, and headed down to the pool, it was already pretty packed. Since we started with the beach yesterday, we decided to start with the pool today. We were unable to find seats in the shade. Boris immediately headed off to the lazy river, Waikolohe Steam.
Waikolohe means mischievous water in Hawaiian. From our balcony, we could see the stream’s winding path, but when you ride it feels longer. You pass under several dated bridges, go through a short cave, and float under waterfalls. The date on the bridges is 1923, the year the Walt Disney Company was founded. There are single and double tubes to ride on, but the water is so shallow that all but young children could walk it with their head above water. There are multiple entrances where you can join the flow. Mid-afternoon, Disney characters stand on one of the bridges and wave to guests as they float by. During our stay, I saw Goofy, Max, Daisy, Mickey, Minnie, Chip, and Dale on the bridge.
It didn’t take long for Boris to decide that he had no interest in hanging out on a lounge chair by the pool in the sun. At one point during the trip, he commented that he had spent more time hanging out with me by the pool/on the beach on this trip, than he had in the last 40 years. It wasn’t much of an exaggeration. I hung in there longer than Boris, but eventually even I headed back in for an afternoon nap. We don’t have dinner reservations tonight; the plan is to stay in, enjoy the music from the balcony, and eat the snacks we bought at the market in the morning. With another gorgeous sunset, it was a perfectly relaxing evening.
The big surprise that evening were the fireworks that were shot from Ko Olina Lagoon. I hadn’t seen it advertised anywhere. We had a great view from the balcony. I asked the next day what the schedule was and found out that Disney does not sponsor the fireworks; they are hosted by the permanent residents of the Ko Olina community.
It was back to Eggs and Things the next morning. We learned our lesson yesterday and went shortly after they opened at 7 am so we had no wait. This time I tried the traditional eggs benedict, one of my morning favorites. Unfortunately, the hollandaise sauce was from a mix and not homemade which completely ruins this dish. After such a good breakfast yesterday, it was very disappointing. No market run today, so we headed straight back to the resort afterwards.
The resort offers multiple crafting opportunities for guests from stamping tee shirts to making your own Mickey Ears. You can find information on the Aulani App which they recommend you download before your arrival. I found the app information generally not up to date or incomplete. You also can not sign up for activities or restaurants on the app. I went down to the Pau Hana Room this morning to sign up for the ear-making class thinking I would need to attend the class one of the last two days of my stay because today’s times were booked and currently not showing up on the app (although they were there the day before). You must sign up in person. When I arrived (and after I waited in line), I was told there were three classes still available for today at 11 am, noon, and even 5 pm. The evening time slot had never even appeared on the app. I would not rely on the Aulani Resort Mobile App; just stop in and schedule the things you are interested in.
The Pau Hana Room is a community space for events, but as it is enclosed so it is currently being used only for sign-up purposes. The ear-making classes are being held in the Ama Ama Restaurant. This is the resort’s fine dining restaurant that is currently closed. I am not sure why, it is an open-air facility. Perhaps it is a staffing issue or a choice given reduced capacity at the resort. There are stunning views of the beach and the water and you can see why the location was chosen for an upscale restaurant.
After the morning at the pool, I joined the noon class and was assigned a table with a view. Each participant is given a glue gun and a sack with their selections inside. When you sign up you choose the five items you want to decorate with, the color of your ears, and whether you want lights or no lights. The regular ears cost $25; lighted ones are $35. An assistant circulates giving instructions and helpful advise. When I was there, it was more adults than children. There were even men participating. The table next to me had two small girls with their father and grandfather.
Unlike Emma and Maggie, I am not a crafty person. However, I enjoyed the class and would recommend it. You have up to an hour to complete your project. I was pretty proud of my finished customized ears. I got lots of complements as I wore them poolside. I directed several people to signup who were unaware that the classes were offered. These ears will definitely be joining me on my next trip to the parks.
Maybe it was just because I was wearing my new ears creation, but unlike Boris I didn’t feel the need for a nap today and stayed all afternoon at the pool. One thing I have noticed is that the crowds have dropped off considerably now that the weekend is over. I learned that they are special incentives given to the locals on the weekends. I am sure they needed to drive in more traffic when they first opened back up. I wonder how long this program will last. I also noticed that about 2 pm the numbers by the pool and beach drop off considerably and continue to decline throughout the afternoon. This is a great time to try the lazy river or one of the water slides that are more crowded earlier in the day.
The two slides start at the top of Pu’u Kilo, the mountain-like structure that sits in the center of the resort amenities between the towers where the guest rooms are located. Disney describes Pu’u Kilo as the “craggy peak overlooking the Waikolohe Valley”. One slide twists and turns through the open air and dumps you out at one of the launch spots for the lazy river. You ride a single or double inner tube supplied by the resort. The other is a body slide inside Pu’u Kilo that dumps you out on the opposite side into an alcove of the Waikolohe Pool. Disney describes the body slide as “extreme”. Neither rivals the big attractions at water parks, but the slides are popular with all members of the family and are included in your resort stay.
Dinner tonight was at Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman. Just across the street from the resort is the Ko Olina shopping center with Eggs and Things, the ABC Island Market, and the very popular Monkeypod Kitchen. Every person we talked to about eating out during our stay at Aulani suggested Monkeypod. The chain has three restaurants. There are two on the island of Maui; the Ko Olina location is the only one on Oahu. Chef Peter Merriman has been called a culinary pioneer; the Los Angeles Times referred to him as “The Pied Piper of Hawaii Regional Cuisine”. This is farm to table fare featuring products grown, raised, and captured in the area.
We had trouble getting reservations and had to wait until four days after our arrival to get in. Our reservation is also for a later time than we usually eat. Once again there is all the paperwork and documentation to go through upon arrival at the restaurant. By now, we know the drill. The restaurant is covered inside and out, but it is all open on the side. We were seated on the outdoor patio where a live musician performed.
The restaurant has a wonderful happy hour daily from 3:30-5 pm; both food and drinks are discounted. The restaurant is also family friendly. According to our server, they have been voted as having the best mai tai for seven years running. This is not usually my drink, but with that recommendation I had to try. It was fabulous, if a little strong. I loved how it was presented with the pineapple on the side and lots of foam on top. They will give you extra foam at no charge if you ask. I did.
The restaurant name comes from a tree. A monkeypod tree sits at the corner of the patio just behind where the musician was playing. The restaurant’s website offers the best description I found. The monkeypod tree is not only beautiful, but it has a really special presence in Hawaii. The monkeypod tree has a single stalk and branchs [sic] that spread into a wide canopy. They thrive in the Hawaiian Islands, more than any other place. Unlike other trees that kill the grass and other plants that live beneath them, the grass is always greener under the monkeypod tree, literally. Its leaves release nitrogen to naturally fertilize the soil beneath it.
A monkeypod tree
Boris wanted the lobster deviled eggs as an appetizer so we shared that. I ordered the fish and chips with truffles fries (you can also just get salt and pepper on them) for my entree. I had heard about their truffle fries. They did not disappoint. Great dipping sauce too. We finished with a slice of banana pie and a slice of chocolate pie, also recommended. All the food was good. It was definitely a more casual menu than Roy’s and a location worth repeating. We had a great server whose father was in the military and she had lived all over the world with her family. When her father retired, she chose to return to Hawaii to live. She has a two-year-old son and wanted to give him the experience of living this lifestyle. She will stay as long as she can, but the cost of living in Hawaii is very high.
After dinner we didn’t stay up long after returning to the resort. Only one more full day at the resort. I went to sleep with the sound of the ‘Olelo Lounge Singer in my ears.
Boris and I are soaking up the sun in Hawaii with a trip to Aulani, Disney’s newest non-park resort. This will be our first full day on property and we are starting with a very unBoris activity, a character breakfast. Our Disney family group loves the photo op aspect of character dining. Rocky in particular likes the face character interaction when he can talk to “in character”. That said, Boris is really not into Disney.
Right off the bat, you are ushered into the outdoor patio with a stage (used as a popular lounge in the evenings featuring live entertainment). With COVID restrictions preventing the characters from going table to table for photos and autographs, Mickey and Minnie in their Hawaiian garb were on stage and you stood in front and took pictures with them behind you. Boris actually smiled for the camera. These photos are going on the Christmas cards.
Next you go into the waiting area to be seated for breakfast. On the way in, we were asked if we wanted a second photo opportunity this time with Goofy (in his chef attire) and Pluto. Same set up, they stood behind the empty buffet serving area, you stood in front whle the pictures were taken. They did some tricks with props. It was fun and since Pluto is Boris’ favorite Disney character-who knew??-even he enjoyed it.
Next it was another three-course meal in Makahiki where we ate last night. This morning we were seated on the patio. We started with a beautiful fruit plate, all very fresh. Coffee and your choice of juice was also served. When in Rome…I went with the pineapple juice and it was the finest I ever tasted. Tomato juice wasn’t one of the options, but our server was able to find some for Boris. Next came a basket with four pastries. What?? After the instance the night before that they did not serve bread baskets due to dietary restrictions, now the sweet bread basket appears as one of three breakfast courses? Apparently the attention to special diets only comes into play at night. Doesn’t make any sense to me. I suspect the dietary concern is only the excuse they give for not having to serve bread at night.
I chose the pancakes-very unNatasha like. I definitely have savory versus sweet taste buds. A pastry is never my choice for breakfast. If I am going to have breakfast, I want meat and eggs. However, these were macadamia nut pancakes. You had me at macadamia…and bacon.
Boris went with an omelet with Portuguese sausage which is a very common meat served on the island. It was a good breakfast and I knew we weren’t going to have to worry about eating again anytime soon. Another breakfast highlight for me was the wonderful music. The live performer was so good, I thought it was a recording.
I had worn a dress as a coverup over my swimsuit so I was ready to go right out to the beach. Who comes to Hawaii without a swimsuit? Well apparently, Boris who couldn’t find his swim trunks while packing. We checked out a couple of the shops after breakfast, but he didn’t see anything he liked. We’ll try the Lava Shack near the pool when it opens at 10 am as they supposedly have a larger selection. We went down to the beach, found open seats with an umbrella, and lathered up.
Aulani is set in a man-made lagoon along the coast line. It sits in the center edge of this lagoon with a condo project on one side and The Four Seasons Resort on the other side. Disney has a lot of chairs and umbrellas in place (and free) for guests. The calm waters of the lagoon cover a large area and the water tapers out to the natural coastline slowly offering lots of shallow water to enjoy. Eventually things get deeper so you can enjoy a swim or other exercise. The lagoon covers a large enough area that paddleboarders, boogieboarders, swimmers, snorkelers, boppers, and waders can share the area with some personal space in between. There were even a couple of sailing canoes the went out periodically with paying guests and I never saw any collisions among the various groups.
At the far end of the lagoon the area was roped off. Only the sailing canoes went beyond the marked area. The canoes set out to the sound of a tribal horn under manpowered oars without using a motor. They were equipped with motors for use in the open ocean when needed. Each ride lasted an hour. Significantly, there were no motorized water vehicles in the large lagoon.
The water was a little cool when I got in, but I adjusted quickly and enjoyed my swim and just treading water for a bit. Everything was very clean, but the water wasn’t clear enough to snorkel in my opinion. No way to know if this is always the case. The resort actually has a huge “aquarium” where guests can pay for the opportunity to snorkel with the beautiful fish that lives in the waters of the Pacific Ocean. There are multiple sessions at Rainbow Reef each day. There is a bottom level viewing so all guests can enjoy a look and in the evening you can see scuba divers cleaning the tank.
The sand was a nice tan color and very clean. There were no rocks or shells. Even though temperatures got into the upper 80s, the sand was never hot enough that you couldn’t walk on it in bare feet. At 10 am, Boris went up to find a swimsuit. By 11, he had not returned and all that lovely sand and clean water was reflecting some serious heat. After a text, he came down wearing one of the suits we had seen earlier. Apparently, the larger selections had not actually yielded a different option. There were two Aulani designs; he ended up with the one I liked least. The suit however, did serve its purpose. Boris spent a lot of time in the water.
Eventually, we ended up poolside at Off the Hook to enjoy some lunch. Their food and drink menu is the same fare that is served at your lounge chair by the pool or on the beach. Chair service begins at 11:00 am and continues until late afternoon. We were ready to get away from the heat, so we chose to eat on the open-air patio at a table. I can recommend their burgers and the shrimp tacos. Boris also liked their hotdogs and wings. It is not a cheap lunch. The burger is $21 before you add cheese ($3 more) or bacon. The shrimp tacos are $24. They also offer salads. They come with Maui chips, fries, fruit, small salad, or onion rings. On an all-out day, go for the onion rings with the spicy dipping sauce.
On the first day, I found that they serve my beloved Lava Flow, a pina colada with a strawberry puree and I had one almost daily. Boris ordered a regular pina colada and was offered the extra shot of dark rum on top. After having it with the shot the first day, he continued to order it that way the rest of trip. He also tried the local beers. Other than my daily lava flow, I drank tap water the rest of the time we were at the resort.
I have to admit that after lunch with a full tummy and the rising heat, the air conditioned room and an afternoon nap sounded like a good plan. I had wanted to check out the shopping center across the street for some grocery supplies and also take a turn on the resort’s lazy river. However, still feeling the effects of the time zone change, my short nap turned into an all afternoon nap. We eventually woke up in time to shower and change for dinner.
Tonight, we are going off property to eat at Roy’s, a Ko Olina restaurant at the golf course clubhouse. It was recommended to us for a “nicer” meal in the area. Chef “Roy Yamaguchi was born and raised in Tokyo, Japan. He is known as the innovator of Hawaiian inspired cuisine… He was honored with the James Beard ‘Best Pacific Northwest Chef’ Award in 1993.” royyamaguchi.com
It was a short walk (about 9 minutes) from the resort. Upon arrival and before you go inside, you have to show your COVID vaccination card and ID. You also had to fill out a medical form. This process was not unique to Roy’s. With a 6 pm reservation, we were able to walk over in the light and secure an outdoor table overlooking the golf course and the mountains beyond on the restaurant’s wonderful patio. You will definitely need reservations if you plan to go on the weekend.
We ordered a bottle of Cava, a sparkling wine from Spain. It was not particularly good and not nearly cold enough. That said, there was not a bottle on the wine list that was over $60, so you get what you pay for. On a return visit, I would probably just order a cocktail instead. For the first course, we shared the recommended crispy crab cakes with a wonderful sauce. Yummy; we both liked them. For my entrée, I had the macadamia nut-crusted Mahi Mahi. Boris stayed with the Spanish-theme and ordered the paella. It was an extensive menu. I am pretty sure I out-ordered Boris this go around.
It was dark for most of our dinner. The sun sets quickly here. I was disappointed I didn’t snap a picture of the hills before it got completely dark by 6:30 pm. We finished off with a chocolate souffle for Boris and the pineapple upside down cake for me. These are the special-order items that take 22 minutes to prepare. Our last glass of Cava from the bottle in the ice bucket was finally cold enough to enjoy.
After dinner, we wandered back to the hotel needing even that short walk to work off a little of that meal. I took some pictures of the lobby at night. Back in the room, we enjoyed the live music from the lounge below our balcony and the lights that highlighted the beauty of our resort.
Three weeks after our wedding anniversary, Boris and I made a 6-day, 5-night trip to Hawaii’s most populous island Oahu, where the state’s capital city of Honolulu is located. We are visiting Disney’s newest non-park resort and Vacation Club destination, Aulani. We plan to spend our time checking out the resort, so if you are looking for tips for places to visit in Hawaii or even just on Oahu, this isn’t the post for you. However, if you want to know general information about how COVID restrictions affect travel to Hawaii, whether to rent a car or not, or about this Disney Resort, read on.
With COVID upending many of my travel plans, I ended up with Disney Vacation Club points that I needed to use before the end of the month. We wanted to make the trip before the heavy Thanksgiving crowds descend on the island, so we traveled to Hawaii the weekend daylight savings time ended.
Hawaii still has strict COVID regulations in place. Its not too tough if you are vaccinated as Boris and I are. In fact, we both got booster shots just prior to the trip. You’ll need to go to their Safe Travels website and register yourself and anyone in your family under 18. Each adult has to do their own separate registration. Then you provide your trip details. Finally, you upload your vaccination card or recent test results. We did all this about a week before our trip. Just prior to departure, you also fill out a health questionnaire. Having completed this process, we were given special wrist bands in the airport in Houston and thus completed the screening process. There was nothing more for us to do for the State of Hawaii on arrival. If your departure city does not offer the wrist band clearance, you’ll have to make an extra stop just after you get off the plane when you arrive at the airport in Honolulu.
I found the website forms a little cumbersome to get through, but I think most younger people will have no problem with them. One tip, the places for signatures really are looking for you to use your finger (or perhaps a mouse) to create a signature. It is unlike some forms where you just type in your name.
Although we could have taken a cheaper flight with a California stopover, we flew directly from Houston to Hawaii on United Airlines. From Houston, it takes about eight and half hours to reach Honolulu and just over seven hours to get back. We flew over when daylight savings time was still in place, so there was a five-hour difference from Central Time. Hawaii does NOT observe daylight savings time, so by the end of our trip we will only have a four-hour time difference.
Boris and I have been to four of the Hawaiian Islands-Oahu, Maui, Kauai, and the Big Island of Hawaii. We have stayed at convention hotels (the worst), resort hotels, boutique hotels, condos, and rental homes (the best). In all instances, we rented a car and you almost always want one. (We could have done without one when we were at the convention hotel, but I hated Waikiki Beach and the excessive crowds who had no concept of personal space. I used the car to get away from that area of the island while Boris was in meetings.)
If you are staying at a rental property with a kitchen, you’ll want the car to get to the grocery store or for longer stays a warehouse retailer like Costco. If you are at a resort, you might want a car to go to “off property” restaurants. The resort dining options-Aulani included-are very expensive and you will get tired of the limited choices after a while. Additionally, to get to various attractions or shopping destinations around the island you will probably want a car.
All that said, since Boris and I are here for less than a week and we have visited Oahu several times, we decided to save the money on parking and a car and just got transportation directly to Aulani. Aulani also has an on-site car rental facility, so we figured we could just rent a car for a day or two if we wanted to visit anything in particular. If you are going to go this route, make sure the Aulani rental office is open. I found the car rental office while on property, but it looked closed.
I should also note that this past summer (2021) there was a severe shortage of rental cars on the islands. Actually, all over the United States. I have friends that were quoted ridiculous prices to rent a car on the Hawaiian Islands. I also spoke with someone who lives on Oahu and she said many people stayed home from work and rented out their cars to travelers because they made more money that way. I admit that factored into our decision to not rent a vehicle. Given the cost of onsite dining, a large family would probably still have been better off renting a car to access grocery stores and offsite restaurants. With just the two of us and Boris’ love of being served his meals, not renting a car worked for us.
Although this post is really not about all the very cool things to do on Oahu, I highly recommend a visit to Pearl Harbor, The Polynesian Cultural Center, Diamond Head, the beaches on the western side of the island and ok, probably the famous Waikiki Beach (only to say you have been there). You’ll need a car to get to these places if you are staying at Aulani. I also want to see the place where they filmed Jurassic Park which is also on this island. Boris didn’t want to go, but I know Rocky will go with me on another visit. You would need to rent a car or hire a driver/guide for that. Only other alternative would be to book a tour that picks you up at the hotel. I did see island tour buses arriving at Aulani.
Since we didn’t rent a car, we could have taken a group shuttle to Aulani, but most of what I read online warned that currently there are often excessive waits for the shuttles. We hired a private transfer service, Honolulu Airport Transfer. Aulani is about 30-40 minutes away from the airport depending on traffic. Our driver watched our flight schedule, called us directly after we landed, and picked us up just outside baggage claim. We went directly to Aulani and beat the crowd at check-in. Plus, since we arrived earlier than most new guests, our room was already available for immediate occupancy. We rolled our bags up, unpacked, and when we came down less than an hour later to make dining reservations. By that time, the front desk lines were very long and people were told that their rooms would not be ready until the normal check-in time. The private transfer was easy and worth the extra cost to start out the vacation in a more relaxed manner. I also recommended taking advantage of Aulani’s online check-in prior to arrival at the hotel.
If you are a DVC member, be sure to take your membership card for discounts. If you forget it, you can take a screen shot of the card after you pull up a temporary one on the Vacation Club web site. No discounts at the sit-down restaurants at Aulani like at the Florida resorts and parks, but there is a 10% discount in the shops and you get cooler wristbands at the pool.
You will also need to show your vaccination card at check-in. You’ll be given a special wristband. If you are not vaccinated, Aulani requires you to do periodic testing during your stay. We even got a call at home from the resort several days before trip making sure we were aware that masks are still required to be worn in all indoor spaces at Aulani (and they enforce that rule), that you need to be vaccinated or take frequent tests, and that you need to follow the State of Hawaii guidelines for entering the islands.
You will find that all of the local restaurants and shops require you to wear a mask inside. Additionally, you are asked to present your vaccination card at all restaurants whether you are seated inside or in their outdoor dining areas. They take the name of all the members of your party and a phone number, presumably for contract tracing and notification. Some places even have you fill out and sign a health form.
Another tip unrelated to COVID, the State of Hawaii requires all retailers to charge for bags. I have encountered this in foreign countries, but not in the US. Unaware, when I questioned the charge, I was informed that “it is the law”. Outwardly, this is an ecological policy to encourage people to reuse their bags. Retailers will tell you it is just another way for the state government to tax unknowing visitors. You will want to pack a beach tote for a trip to Hawaii anyway, so take the tote with you (empty) when you go shopping and save the cost of buying a bag.
That first afternoon at the resort after unpacking, we stopped at the concierge to make dining reservations. I usually do this online, but we wanted recommendations for the resort and the area. We found that the only sit-down breakfast option at the resort was the 3-course character breakfast. To Boris, this is THE way to start off the day-the served breakfast, not the characters. He agreed to go; I was shocked. We also made reservations for Makahiki, the one dine-in restaurant that is currently operating at the resort (in the same location as the breakfast) and some offsite places that had been recommended to us. The concierge was pleasant and made all the reservations for us, but she really didn’t offer any suggestions other than to mention the other Ko Olina resorts.
Next, we walked around the property to familiarize ourself a bit and ended up sitting under an umbrella on the beach just enjoying the view. Finally, we grabbed a drink at the Off the Hook bar while we waited for the restaurant to open for our 5 pm dinner reservations. I know that is really early, but we had eaten almost nothing in the last 24 hours.
Makahiki has a lovely setting overlooking the koi pond and fountains. There is indoor and outdoor seating, but the interior is completely open to the porch so everyone is essentially in covered outdoor seating. The restaurant was clearly designed for buffet dining (at least at breakfast) and there is a lot of real estate that is currently not being used. During our visit, there was a three-course fixed price menu. We found plenty of things that interested us, but it was an expensive meal so we ended up going with steaks to get the most bang for our buck. We were very surprised that no bread course was served and when I asked about it, the server told us that the resort prides itself on its ability to serve those with dining restrictions and it is just too hard to serve bread that everyone can enjoy. She did say they get lots of requests for bread. None is served, even on request.
Next door is the completely open and uncovered ‘Olelo patio. Service includes heavy appetizers and drinks starting at 5 pm. The inside ‘Olelo Room is a sushi bar and the décor includes beautiful carved wooden panels. In Hawaiian, ‘Olelo means word or to converse. Live music on the outdoor stage begins around 6 pm and continues until 9 or 10 pm. The patio lounge is very popular. No reservations are taken, so it is first come, first served. There is always a line.
We headed up to our room after dinner and from our balcony we can look directly down into the ‘Olelo lounge area. Boris and I enjoyed the music nightly without standing in line. I don’t usually spring for the waterfront rooms at our home resort at the Polynesian because we are not often in the room. However, this being our anniversary celebration and knowing we were going to be hanging around the resort, I booked a room with an ocean view. In this instance it was well worth the extra Disney Vacation Club points. We have a gorgeous view of the resort facilities, including the beach, and spectacular sunset views every night.
Those of you that regularly follow the blog know I live in Houston, Texas USA. Our beloved Astros are in the World Series for the third time in five years. We have home field advantage meaning the first two games were in Houston. I sprang for a ticket to the second game. For my foreign followers, the World Series is up to seven baseball games with the winner being the first to get to four victories. It is top honors in professional American baseball, like the finals of the World Cup if you will.
My sister Emma and her husband are season ticket holders which means they had the opportunity to buy the series tickets before they go on sale to the general public. They can buy up to six tickets for each game; they have two tickets for the regular season. We had great seats for the second game of the series, section 110, row 7 along the third base line.
As a season ticket holder, Emma had the opportunity to carry, hold, and wave the huge American flag that they brought onto the field for the national anthem for game one. Maggie had the chance to do it with her. They had a three-hour rehearsal the day before. They said the flag was pretty heavy. In fact, one person fell and was pulled under the flag taking two other holders with her. This was actually covered during their training. At game two, I met one of the people that got pulled under. She said she could see it about to happen; the woman in front of her was struggling. My new friend Audrey is fine physically. As she put it, only her pride was bruised. She was back cheering the Astros the next night.
Unfortunately, the Astros didn’t do so well that first night and fell behind early, eventually losing the game 2-6. I was pretty glad that I didn’t fork over the money for one of those tickets. I went for game two hoping for better things. My niece Maggie had been put in charge of coordinating the evening. She took her mom Emma to work downtown (where the ballpark also is) in the morning. Maggie suggested picking me up at 2:45 pm for the 7:09 pm game so we could work everything into our itinerary. I negotiated her to make it 3 pm.
After picking up Emma from her office, we parked in a metered spot over by the courthouse. There is a 3-hour limit for the for-pay period which ends at 6 pm, so we made the window. We paid $5.05 to park there until 6 pm and the rest of the evening is free. Not surprisingly, parking prices in the private lots are inflated for the World Series. To park in the lot across the street from our street parking was $60. For the AL series last week, the price was $40; it is $20 during the regular season.
From there we walked several blocks to get an early dinner.We are going to Irma’s a downtown, a Diners and Dive type eatery that serves homemade Mexican food. In fact, I saw a picture of Irma with the Diners and Dive host in the restaurant. The place has been added on to over the years and contains all kinds of family nicknacks. They is quite an extensive doll collection on display, including in the woman’s bathroom.
The servers are known for their surly attitude so don’t go expecting pleasantries, especially on a busy game day. You can also expect that regulars will be given priority in the line and plucked to be seated before any who might be waiting in the queue. We arrived early and waited only briefly. Getting parking and a table at Irma’s were our primary reasons for leaving for the game so early.
The restaurant had just finished serving 300 Fox Sports workers and the servers were already in a bad mood. I offered to take a picture of Irma with one of the Fox hosts as the host was leaving. This apparently put me in the good graces of the wait staff who were very attentive and friendly to me the rest of our visit. Emma and Maggie were shocked at how well I was treated (they were not). Right place, right time.
This is authentic Mexican food, not the best I have eaten, but good. Maggie and Emma love the beef fajitas. I liked the tamales (which Emma ordered) better. There are no menus; they just tell you the few items that are being served that day. I think the tamales are an unusual offering, but they were made fresh that day for the Fox newscasters and they had a few left over.
There are no prices posted or quoted at Irma’s, so they can pretty much charge you whatever they want at the end. I picked the wrong meal to treat; it was very expensive. I will say the best part for me was the wonderful on the rocks margarita. I can highly recommend the bar.
They don’t bring a ticket to your table. It was suggested to us twice within about 4 minutes that we could go up to the counter to pay. We got the hint. Irma herself cleared our table when we got up to pay. There was a long line at Irma’s when we left to make the short walk over to the stadium.
After clearing security, there was an interior “street fair” at Minute Maid Park. There were picnic tables set up on the lawn and cocktail tables around the perimeter. Big Screen video and a live band on stage entertained you while you enjoyed lawn games, food booths, and plenty of beer. There were a couple of fun places where you could take pictures.
While we waited in line at one of the photo op spots, the Budweiser Girls came up and asked us if they could take our picture holding a beer bottle. We each got a free beer. I don’t drink beer; Emma doesn’t drink beer. Maggie was happy to enjoy all three. We probably would have stayed outside longer, but I was ready to find a restroom, so we went inside the stadium. After our potty stop, we took another free photo inside and then headed to our seats in the field boxes.
We were in section 110, field box seats along the third base line. Technically, this is the visitors section. However not surprisingly, Astros fans far outnumbered the Braves fans. We were in row seven so there was a great view. A temporary stage was up for broadcasting a pre-game show. The energy in the stadium was amazing.
Just yesterday, Houston was experiencing really hot temperatures pushing 90 degrees Fahrenheit. A cool front came through and the weather was incredibly pleasant for this second game of the series. The roof was open and it was perfect baseball weather.
Our seats were just a few rows behind Dr. Barbara Moon. I have known Dr. Moon for a long time. She was Rocky’s pediatric dentist (and Rocky is now 30). Even when Rocky was little, she worked her appointments around being able to go to the games and has been a season ticket holder for countless years. Dr. Moon originated the specialty signs for players at the Astros games. When he was just a new player with the team, she would hold up the “J-O-S-E” for Jose Altuve, now an Astros veteran and one of our very best players. She has expanded her sign collection to acknowledge all of the players. Her “King Tuck” for outfielder Kyle Tucker is one of my favorites.
You have to be dedicated to snag one of her seats which she reserves for family members and close friends. You also have to “sign” an agreement that you will attend and participate in holding up the signs at the appropriate times. All the players know Dr. Moon. You can’t miss her in her blue sequined Astros hat. Her daughter was one of those pulled under the flag the night before. Emma also works with her niece who gave Emma the skinny of the seating “agreement” you have to make. You also better show up or lose your opportunity to sit in her seats again. We were just a little too far away to participate, but if you sit close you might get drafted.
Showing their Astros spirit at the Minute Maid Park Street Fair before the game.
Everyone was out of their seats for the National Anthem and the introduction of the players. When they stayed standing for the top of the first inning when the Braves were batting, I started to get a little worried we might be standing for the whole game. By the second inning we looked around and our section was the only one standing. Finally by the third inning we got to sit, but it wasn’t very often.
Also celebrating in the stadium…friends, Joanne and Chance Kanaly
I will admit I do love to cheer and I will stand if some exciting happens. Come on, its the World Series!! Best of all, we played well and had something to be excited about. The first game, our starting pitcher was just off and we got in a hole we never recovered from. The backup pitchers all did really well. Tonight’s pitcher wasn’t who were were expecting to see, but for the most part all of the Astros game two pitchers did really well.
It is said that the team follows Altuve’s lead in batting. When he hit that double I had a feeling we were going to have a good night. Jose Altuve went on to hit a homerun later in the game. There were some terrific hits. Sometimes we left too many men on base-second and third, even bases loaded, but we still scored well.
And with a great view from the upper deck… Goddaughter Emily Thamm and her dad and my high school friend Rick Thamm
The defense was great too. Sometimes what you get to enjoy depends on where you are sitting. Michael Brantley made a great catch on the edge in left field, but the angle was wrong and I couldn’t see it from my seat. While the rest of the fans and presumably those on television watched Brantley’s terrific catch, right in front of me was Carlos Correa urging him on to throw him the ball. Correa was literally jumping up and down. The throw came from Brantley; Correa fired it to first; the base runner, already on first, never advanced. Outstanding!
The mascot Orbit was also in the zone and played a variety of games during the night. The multi-flag one right in front of us was particularly good. We were also looking straight on to the big screen. One of my favorite shots was of the Rally Nuns. Mattress Mack, a local furniture store owner and a great supporter of the Astros, gave the group from a convent in Shiner, Texas (where my great grandparents are from and near where my dad is buried) tickets to a previous game. They were so popular that he has bought them tickets to the whole series.
Although they never showed them on TV the night before, they highlighted the nuns up on the big screen all the time for this game. Waving their rally towels, they got the crowd going each time. I could see them in their high box in the outfield, but the close up shots on the big screen were what got the fans excited. Every team needs Rally Nuns. Go Sisters!!
I guess you are noticing that my pictures are not from the play of the game…I was watching and not focusing on taking pictures. Also my text is about the rest of the experience; there are plenty of sport writers that can give you a better play by play and expert analysis of the game. All I know is that the game was fun for an Astros fan; the crowd was infectious; and there is nothing like the experience of being there. Bottom Line, we won 7-2 to tie the series. Now the play shifts to Atlanta. I am ok if the Astros take it all on the road. But if we end up back in Houston for a game 6 or 7, I’ll try to be there.
We took our time leaving the stadium, given the crowd and traffic. Stopped to take a few pictures with the mural and even a costumed fan. I might be floating on this fan cloud for a while. Go Astros!
The is the last day of our rebooted family vacation in Michigan. We are heading south back to Grand Rapids taking the longer route along Lake Michigan. We had driven around Manistee last night to find a place to eat. Everything was already closed up at 9 pm. The city did have a charming downtown. We finally found a A&W drive-through open and we took the food back and ate in the hotel lobby. We did another city drive by in the morning to see everything in the light of day.
Driving by the harbor we saw the unique looking SS City of Milwaukee. The Milwaukee is the last of six sister ships designed in the 1920s and built by the Manitowac Shipbuilding company out of Wisconsin. The SS City of Milwaukee was built in 1931 for the Grand Trunk Milwaukee Car Ferry Company. This Great Lakes railroad car ferry travelled primarily between Muskegon, Michigan and Milwaukee, Wisconsin. It is the only pre-1940s ship of this type to survive.
The SS city of Milwaukee is available for tours and facilities rental. It contains a bed and breakfast (May through early Sept.) and hosts the annual GhostShip Haunted House every Friday and Sat in October at 7:30 pm. If I had known about the B&B ahead of time, that is where we would have been staying. I already want to go back in October for the ghost ship tour.
Leaving Manistee behind, we were headed into farmland along the lake on our way to Ludington. I had lobbied for a beach stop. The real kind with chairs, swimsuits, towels, the on the sand getting in the water kind. I was outvoted, but it was agreed that we would make a stop at the beach in Ludington to take a look.
Arriving in Ludington, we went straight to the city’s most popular beach at Stearns Park and it did not disappoint. Mom just wanted to sit and look, so she and I found a bench in the shade and just soaked up the atmosphere. It was late morning and heat hadn’t set in, so it was exceptionally pleasant. Emma and Jack walked down to the lighthouse, which was a lot farther away than it appeared.
When Emma and Jack returned I could wait no longer. I went down to the water’s edge and put my feet in. Wonderful. If I had brought a swimsuit, I would have gone in. The lake water is cold, but in the heat of August I just felt refreshed. After I got in, Emma ventured in as well. I could come stay here for a week or so. If it was the summer, I would do the beach in the morning and then head to my lodgings for lunch and to wait out the heat of the afternoon. I would go out again in the evening. Mom liked that plan. She never learned to swim and won’t go in, but she does enjoy the beach.
Stearns Park Beach had excellent facilities. There lots of benches, many in the shade. There were ample and strategically placed trash cans near the parking lot and mid beach. They had a wonderful ramp installed so that the handicapped could go down to the water’s edge. The pathway could also be used for a cooler on wheels. There were volleyball nets, bathrooms, and a snack bar. All that was in the small section of the beach park that we were on. The park also features a playground, skate park, mini golf, and shuffleboard. Parking is free.
Mom had a magazine that outlined all the beaches in the area so we drove through town on our way to the next Ludington beach. There was a small one tucked away near the cliffs. The surf was rougher here and the sand rolled a bit, but it was more private and quiet. Another nice spot…a week in Ludington is looking like a greater likelihood.
Finally, we went up on the cliff to a camping spot in the trees which had beach access via a wooden staircase. Mom thought it looked pretty steep and she didn’t want to go near the edge. There were benches to rest on near the top and midway down. There was a metal bench a few steps away where you could just sit and look out over the water. We didn’t stay long because there really wasn’t a place to park and I think the area was designed for those overnighting in the park.
I have always known Ludington as the city where the car ferry that goes across the lake to Wisconsin leaves from. I had no idea that the city was so pretty and the beaches were so fabulous. The Stearns Park Beach has incredibly calm water, while the Ludington State Park has a more rugged beauty. I liked the quiet and cliff side seating of Buttersville Beach. So now I want to come stay here for the beaches and travel from here to cross the lake in style.
“Ludington is the home port of the largest carferry to sail the Great Lakes. The S.S. Badger carferry makes its voyage from Ludington to Manitowoc, Wisconsin mid-May to mid-October. This 410′ ship carries up to 620 passengers and 180 vehicles. Onboard you can play Badger Bingo, watch a movie, shop, or enjoy a meal in one of their two restaurants.” visitludington.com. There are also scheduled children’s activities. The crossing takes four hours and there are two roundtrips daily in season. One way pricing is $69 for adults with discounts for seniors, teens, and children. Take your car one way for $75.
Between Ludington and Pentwater, we hit a stretch of road where the fog was rolling heavy off the lake and moving inland. It was beautiful as it made its way across the farms and trees. At one point we crossed a bridge and I was glad there were other cars to follow, making it easier to see the road.
Just before coming into Pentwater, we passed a local fishery that has been there since 1898 (or so the sign says) They are open seasonally from early May to Labor Day. It was a popular place, the parking lot was full and cars were also parked along the roadway. The possibility of fried perch loomed, so we had to stop. Everyone else sat in the car while I went in for a 1/2 lb. of fish just so we could all try it. You could buy fresh or smoked, but it was about 12:30 and the “lunch crowd” was buying fried. They pulled it out of the fresh fish case and cooked to order. Outside on the posts they had pictures of family members from years past with their catch.
Many of my cousins like to camp at Pentwater. It is apparently a very hard park to get a reservation for and you have to know the sign up system and be quick about it (kind of like signing up for the Disney Princess Run, at least before COVID). It was a cute beach town. They must have flooding issues; there were lots of temporary barriers up.
Next we are going into Grand Haven. It is very close to Grand Rapids and we go often. I am going to stop into Jean Marie’s while Jack and Emma get something to eat. Mom tried the fried perch, but I ended up eating most of it.
We made one special stop in Grand Haven. Years ago we stayed at a Lodge with my grandmother, aunt, uncles, and cousins. We wanted to see if it was still there. We easily found the lodge. The Khardomah Lodge is a different color and a tepee and trampoline have been added to the yard, but it otherwise looks the same. Jack likes to tease about its “rustic charm of a bygone era”. Coming from Jack that is not a compliment.
Our last stop was a incredibly large garden center just outside of Grand Rapids. Mom picked up some flowers to fill in a space that Emma had cleared out for her in the front flower bed. I had been moved to the front seat today. For the last leg, I was alone in the front in the driver’s seat with the flowers beside me. Mom, Jack, and Emma got their selfie in the back seat.
Wow. What a trip. Our redo vacation in Michigan took us from Grand Rapids to Gaylord, the Soo Locks; Machinac Island; Indian River; Charlevoix; Ludington; Grand Haven; and back to Grand Rapids. There was also lots to see and do in between. Mom isn’t the only one that is tired. On to the next adventure…
Today we will make several stops as we leave Mackinac Island in the Straits of Mackinac in Lake Huron between the upper and lower peninsulas of the state. After a ferry ride, we will collect the car in St. Ignace and cross the Mackinac Bridge before heading south from Mackinac City. After a stop at the Indian River Shrine, we will wind our way along the shore of Lake Michigan.
We didn’t have any special plans for our second morning on Mackinac Island. We enjoyed the hot breakfast at the Inn. I really liked the daily special of peach French toast, but the rest left a lot to be desired. The eggs looked like pellets and didn’t taste like much either. Afterwards, Mom wanted to sit on the porch and I headed out to take pictures before the day got too hot. I wanted to snap a few things on and near our street, check out the boardwalk and take a look inside St. Ann’s before we caught the noon ferry back to St. Ignace. We have a couple of other stops to make today before we spend the night just north of Luddington on the shore of Lake Michigan.
We saw a few things on our carriage tour that I wanted a better picture of than I could snap in the moving carriage. We went back to Bluff Trail Lane and I saw the parsonage and the Little Stone Church. I am still considering that online clergy certification. This is the route up to the Grand Hotel and the way the hotel’s guests walk into town.
Jack and I also walked down to the boardwalk and a chance to walk along the lakeshore. On the way, I spotted a primitive fence and gate made from twigs. Along the shoreline, there were more colorful houses. These homes are smaller than those up on the bluffs.
Some of the houses had unobstructed views across a road to the water. A few people had space right on the water. Must have been some trespassing though; I saw an interesting sign designating some of the rocks as private. The island strives to prevent overdevelopment. You won’t see any major chains on the island and new construction is very limited. If a house burns on Mackinac Island, the home cannot be rebuilt unless there is at least one wall left standing. If there is not, the land is divided among the neighbors on either side.
This walk was the first time I saw homes made with cedar shakes on the island. Some had left them natural allowing them to turn gray, while on another home they were treated to retain the brown coloring. The detail work on the houses is really amazing. The residents also put a lot of effort into their beautiful landscaping. Another thing I thought particularly attractive was the beautiful fencing (often white) and gates (often with arbors).
Coming back around to the main street, I saw the Iroquois Hotel and the Carriage House patio where we had dinner last night. Jack headed back to the hotel to sit with Mom and I texted Emma to meet her in town where she was shopping. While I waited to catch up with her, I walked down Main Street and was reminded of the main ingredient in fudge and why it wasn’t a good idea to take some home. I did not hear from Emma, so I walked down to St. Ann’s in hopes of seeing the inside of the church.
I made it down to St. Ann’s. No Mass today; the ladies of the church were cleaning, including scraping wax off the candle stands. I loved the stained glass windows. Some of the lower panels were even operable. Outside, the stations of the cross were displayed in individual covered boxes in a side garden. Ste. Anne de Michilimackinac Catholic Church was established as a mission in 1695. The church maintains baptismal records back to that date.
From St. Ann’s, I took one more look at the beautiful homes and gardens across from the marina. I walked around Marquette Park and went back to the inn via Market Street to take one more look at the historic buildings there. Just before turning on Market, I saw one of the oldest wooden structures on the island and a reproduction of the housing favored by the native people when the colonists came here. I was reminded that some of the infamous Astor family made their fortune through fur trading headquartered here.
On Market Street, I passed the first traders building right on the corner. The hair salon was a cross the street in a beautiful purple home. I spotted the Post Office. Jack was planning on making several stops here today to pick up stamps and then return the completed and stamped postcards. Emma is buying the postcards in town for Mom to send. Mom has always loved postcards, a dying form of communication. Outside I spotted another one of those unique signs that is so Mackinac Island-“Private rocks, no saddled horses in cemetery”, etc. The parking sign at the Post Office referred not to cars, but the bicycle racks it sat behind.
Once back at the hotel, I checked out of the room and made arrangements to have our luggage transferred to the dock. He will have an easier time of it on the way back; its downhill. We are going to enjoy the porch and garden until it is time to make our way back down to the docks. The Metivier Inn back gardens are accessed off the third floor due to the slope of the yard as the house sits on a hillside. Ground level varies from the first to the third floor as you move back on the property.
Emma and I went up to the back gardens. It was already too hot to sit out for long, but it was a lovely spot that I am sure many of the guests enjoy in better weather. From the back fence you can see the Grand Hotel. Looking back toward the house, you can see the water just to the side of the house from this higher vantage point.
Mom and Emma decided to take their time and walk down to the dock early. Jack and I stayed behind to make sure the luggage got picked up. Emma texted us later to say the noon departure had been cancelled because two of the Star Line boats had problems. The next departure was at 12:30 pm. Jack and I stayed around a little longer, enjoying the front porch and watching the horseback riders come and go from the stables across the street. Once the porter came for the luggage, we walked down to the dock.
While waiting for the boat, I noticed there were two lines. One was for commuters and residents and the other line was for visitors. Courtney had let us know on the tour that the city/island government subsidizes annual passes for the residents. There contract is with the Star Line ferries. Commuters like Courtney who work on the island can buy a seasonal pass. The residents and commuters were allowed to board first. This departure was too full; I was not surprised. If we hadn’t had other destinations on today’s agenda we might have stayed longer. The last ferry is at 9:00 pm.
For the return trip, they did scan our tickets and collect them. The ride back to St. Ignace was direct and pleasant. As we left the dock, we saw the umbrellas and flowers of the Carriage House patio where we had cocktails the other night. Emma saw a weasel in the bushes there while we waited for our table, although none of the rest of us saw it so who knows. I told her it was probably a wolverine. This is Michigan after all.
From the ferry, I got another look at the shoreline road. We did not make it down there on this trip. Would have been fun with a bicycle. I did see one of the handicap tour carriages (or maybe it was a taxi) making its way down this road. As we approached St. Ignace, I saw the hotel we stayed at the other night and “s’mores beach”.
Jack got the car. No special help from the porters this time. We all just had to pull our own bags off the cart. At least I saved the tip money. We loaded up and were off. Emma has decided to conquer her fears and will be driving us back across the Mackinac Bridge. She probably wouldn’t have done that if she had known ahead of time that portions of the bridge were under construction. She did a great job. Just as we got to the end, I saw Colonial Michilimackinac off to the side.
Our next stop will be the Indian River Shrine that we visited as children. The Cross in the Woods National Shrine (the official name) features Calvary Hill and the world’s largest crucifix. The figure of Jesus is made of bronze; the cross is made of redwood. The Cross in the Woods is celebrating its 75th birthday this year. I was last here over 40 years ago as a child. It is a place of great peace and beauty.
For the 50th anniversary, a church was also built on the site and it is the parish church for the Catholics who live in Indian River. Originally only outdoor services were held which meant usage was seasonal. The church has a lovely setting looking out on the cross. If you look back at the church from outside, the cross is reflected in the glass.
We entered the shrine through the church entrance so that Mom could use the elevator. In spite of being there during the heat of the day, in the shade of the trees it was a comfortable and comforting setting. We spent some time outside sitting, looking at the cross, and reflecting. While I sat with Mom, Emma toured the stations of the Cross that you follow from a path through the woods. The appropriate station has you stop at the foot of the large crucifix.
The shrine also features additional monuments, most notably that of Saint Kateri Tekakwitha. Her image at the shrine was placed in direct line with the crucifix and within the congregational seating. Saint Kateri’s mother was a member of the Algonquin tribe; her father was the Chief of the Mohawk Tribe. As the nearby marker noted, she converted to Christianity at age 18 and suffered many hardships “because of her wish to live a celibate and Christian lifestyle.” Saint Kateri was known as the “Lily of the Mohawks” and her image is often shown with turtles as her father was Chief of the Turtle Clan. She died at age 24 and was declared a Saint by Pope Benedict XVI in October of 2012. Saint Kateri is the fourth Native American to be venerated in the Catholic Church and the first to be canonized.
There was one more stop to make at the shrine before our departure, well besides the gift shop. The shrine has a doll museum. My sister remembers it from our earlier visit. Orders of Sisters from around the world have sent in a doll with the (traditional and/or modern) clothing of their Order. While there are some with the dress of male religious orders, the majority of the representations are of nuns. It is “the largest collection of dolls dressed in traditional habits of men and women religious communities in the United States.” The Cross in the Woods.com.
I located the doll with the clothing of the order which taught at the Catholic School I attended in Victoria, Texas. The representation was exactly as I remember the clothing that the older sisters wore when I was growing up. Most of the dolls were of a normal size, but the Hall of Sisters contained life-size dolls which made Emma uncomfortable.
Leaving Indian River and the shrine, we headed toward the coast. Mom wanted to drive through Petosky and Charlevoix. In an older section of Charlevoix along the water, we decided to drive in a little and were charmed by some unique houses we found. They were shaped like mushrooms and looked like little hobbit houses. It was only later that we saw the historical marker for this special district of the city with a collection of houses by designer Earl Young.
Earl Young was a master builder who worked without blueprints. His goal was to design a structure that would fit the site, rather than designing a home and working the land to accommodate a design. Over a 50-year career, he designed 26 residential properties and 4 commercial ones. Most of the privately owned structures are composed of limestone, fieldstone, and boulders from northern Michigan. “Earl Young’s houses feature his signature designs, along with wide, wavy eaves, exposed rafter tails; cedar-shake roofs; and a horizontal emphasis in design. These buildings are creatively known as Gnome Homes, Mushroom Houses, or Hobbit Houses.” VisitCharlevoix.com
What a fun find. Most of the houses were not large. One looked like it may be a rental for vacationers. They also sit near the water, so a perfect setting. Driving out of the park on the edge of the neighborhood, Emma spotted a bronze dragon statue on top of one of the houses in the neighborhood. It totally fit right in. That picture immediately got texted to Rocky.
We hadn’t had much for lunch, just a quick bite before the shrine, so we stopped at a local ice cream stand for a treat. Dairy Grill looked like a much-loved neighborhood hangout. My go-to for evaluating an ice cream shop is to test the pineapple malts. This was a good one. After her excellent dragon spot, Emma out-ordered us all with a “to die for” strawberry sundae.
Leaving Charlevoix, we headed to Manistee, Michigan where we are spending the night. Tomorrow is our last day on the road; we will be back in Grand Rapids by the evening. Still more to come on our rebooted family trip.
travelbynatasha 