travelbynatasha

Natasha goes on a road trip (and misses historic flooding in Houston)

Posted on June 2, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Mom and Rocky at the Shake Shack in Marion, Arkansas
©Jean Janssen

My mom has decided to return to live in Michigan long term; I won’t say permanently because I suspect she will be back in Texas at some point. Rocky and I are driving her back now that the weather is warm. She is excited to once again have a car after living in Grand Rapids a year and a half there with only a bus pass. She has agreed to store the car for the winter months.

At Big John’s Shake Shack in Marion Arkansas. I once saw Rocky doe a pretty good version of Hound Dog at karaoke.

Hoping to beat the commuter traffic, we left Houston at 6:30 am and headed through East Texas to Texarkana. Rocky was thrilled to find a Pizza Hut that was still dine-in. We made that food stop and a few gas/restroom stops before making it to Marion, Arkansas which is basically East Memphis. Our Comfort Inn room was really nice, the two queen (rather than double) beds being the key. Dinner was at the “world famous” Shake Shack (aka Big John’s Shake Shack). The eatery is indeed a shack, but the decor is fun with lots of Elvis (we are very close to Graceland), John Wayne, and Lucille Ball memorabilia on the wall and book shelves. The food was extremely disappointing, but the owner friendly. He was from the area, but his wife was from San Antonio and he yearned to return to Texas. Not sure they need a franchise location of this place.

Mom enjoying the porch during our lunch stop in Marion, Illinois.
©Jean Janssen

We slept in the next morning and left after the traffic at 9am, although I am not sure how much traffic there was in the area to begin with (remember I live in Houston, the 4th largest city in the US). Even though we left later in the morning, it was 50 degrees-no more spring/summer Texas weather. Our lunch stop was at a Cracker Barrel. Now I know people swear by these places and Boris just loves them, but I actually couldn’t find anything on the menu I thought was worth the calories. Having to wind through a ridiculous gift shop didn’t make it better. Today was mom’s pick; she wasn’t happy at all about yesterday’s Pizza Hut that Rocky chose. I am picking tomorrow; we are getting a burger. It was kinda cool that the stop was in Marion, Illinois given the city we started at in the morning.

Rocky did most of our driving through the state of Illinois.
©Jean Janssen

Rocky has been driving today. It was really windy and he was working hard to keep the car steady; nice to have another driver. The deal is the driver picks the music and I suspect he drove just so he didn’t have another day of listening to my selections. After leaving Texas, our whole trip is interstate and today we were mostly going through the flat plains of Illinois. We did a late stop at Micky D’s for a $1 drink and 49 cent cone, got gas, and switched drivers so I would be behind the wheel to find the hotel.

Actually, our Comfort Inn in Kankakee, Illinois couldn’t have been easier to find. I do miss the navigation system in my car and Rocky couldn’t find his portable one to bring along, so we are going old school with maps or following our cell phones, completely discharging our batteries. (Luckily, we both brought car chargers.) This was another nice room and even cheaper (although just as nice) as the Comfort Inn in Marion. Once again we got a strange look from the receptionist as we rolled the luggage cart through.

Mom was a little crowded in the back seat and took to wearing multiple hats to conserve space.
©Theodore Crane

We wanted mom to have as much room as possible to pack things in the car, so we limited our suitcases and just took small bags to carry in overnight. Mom likes to take things in small, lighter bags. Each night, Rocky and I each took in a single bag, mom took in 7. Don’t ask me why, but she just loves to sort and resort her things. On top on these 9 bags on the cart, were a sampling of the vegetables that Boris is now growing. I was trying to keep them at a constant temperature, so I took them into the room each night. People wondered what the heck we were doing. Boris has decided to become a weekend farmer, but that is a whole other post.

We got free drink tickets to the Italian restaurant nearby, so Rocky and I went there for dinner, enjoying a glass of wine and some decent Italian food. I am pretty picky about my carbonara, but Tucci’s did a good job of it. Mom decided she wasn’t hungry and wanted to stay in an sort her bags (yes the same ones as yesterday) and clean the vegetables. Seriously, I am not kidding about this.

Custard Flavor of the Day varies from location to location at Culver’s.

We let the commuter traffic finish before we left and slept in again. I learned how to make waffles using a flip iron at the hotel’s complimentary self-serve breakfast. If I actually liked waffles, I might have to buy one of these. More gasoline and we were on the road before 9. I couldn’t believe how light the traffic was; we could have definitely left earlier. There have been tons of trucks the whole way, but decent roadways. However, looping around the southern side of Lake Michigan the expressways were in pretty bad shape and I pointed out to Rocky the damage the snow does on these highways. We thought we had a 3.5 hour drive, but did it in under 3. Nobody was ready for us, so we stopped outside Grand Rapids in Jenison and I got a burger at Culver’s. I actually think of this custard and burger joint as a northern thing, but there is one in The Woodlands, a suburb of Houston.

We had no idea that in leaving Houston when we did that we would miss the historic flooding. Our home got 9 inches of rain in two hours, stranding cars throughout the neighborhood. Our neighborhood fared better than many. Today Houston was declared a federal disaster area. Our hearts go out to our friends and neighbors dealing with the aftermath.–Natasha

Houston, Texas

Posted in domestic travel, road trip | Tagged Big John's Shake Shack, Comfort Inn, Culver's, Tucci's | Leave a comment

Final Days in Cabo San Lucas

Posted on March 5, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Sunrise in Cabo San Lucas.–Photo by Bob Kochman

More golf today for some, this time at Cabo del Sol. It was a full day outing for these guys, but they loved the course and likened their experience to Pebble Beach. The original plan was to drive to San Jose del Cabo for dinner in that artsy city just past the airport. I really like the restaurants better there and the city has more character. However, that area was harder hit by the September hurricane. Many in our group decided they just didn’t want to make the drive back and forth after a relaxing day.

Our dinner restaurant in the marina, Lorenzillo’s, Cabo San Lucas

Jane’s lobster bisque at Lorenzillo’s in the Cabo marina.–photo by Bob Kochman

A long time favorite of ours was Edith’s, but we wanted to try something new to us so we went to Lorenzillo’s in the Marina. Lorenzillo’s specialty is lobster and you can choose your own live one or select the lobster tail with one of 22 preparation options. Many are group were happy with the wine selection, which has never been great in Cabo, but is even worse since the hurricane. You dine upstairs, in or outside. The views would have been lovely with outside seating, but it was a cool and windy night and we opted for inside dining. I started with the corn and seafood chowder, which was only so-so. Since I was having lobster for my entree, I didn’t select my usual lobster bisque. I was definitely out-ordered by Jane who went in that direction.

The small fishing boat is the live lobster hold at Lorenzillo’s in Cabo San Lucas.

Bob and Jane enjoyed the atomosphere at Lozrenzillo’s in the Marina, Cabo San Lucas.

Marne ordered crab cakes, which actually looked more like golf balls, but were very good. We haven’t eaten much on this trip that has been fried. My lobster was good. I tried the butter and garlic sauce and also the cilantro sauce. Definitely go with the old standby of butter. I even added a little to my slightly dry pasta which came as a side dish to my meal. Boris spent most of the time watching the TV screen with revolving pictures of the dessert offerings. He was most disappointed when no one wanted to partake in the sweets. We did get the show for the few that ordered the flaming Mexican Coffee.

Villa Descanso.–photo by Bob Kochman

For our last full day at the house, men’s spa day was scheduled. We had at least one massage virgin among the men so it was fun to see Gordon’s reaction to the experience. Not all the guys were into it. Of course, Boris opted for the 90-minute massage and then had to come find me to pay for it since he had no cash.

Marne models one of Boris' big purchases, a viking helmet made of metal and cow horns, in the cab on the way back to Villa Descanso

M models one of Boris’ big purchases-a viking helmet made of metal and cow horns-in the cab on the way back to Villa Descanso. He also bought one on our trip here too years ago. You can’t have too many viking helmets.

The afternoon was set aside for shopping in town. Boris was the most excited of all and kept us moving so we would have enough time to find everything on his list-helmets, swords, Mexican wrestling masks, pharmacy items, guaybera shirts…the list goes on and on. They have some wonderful runners and other linens I wanted to look for and I am sometimes tempted by the clothing. I fairly quickly found the runner length and style I was looking for and then spent the rest of the time going shop to shop to find the best one at the best price. I actually bought two.

Jose Fernando and Terry Baca at the Office. Terry went into town earlier in the week with Todd and didn’t join us today. On her excursion she got some beautiful embroidered girl’s dresses and a slingshot. She is going to be very popular with the grandchildren.

Boris worked his way through his entire list, but opted out on the sword because it was not exactly what he wanted. He bought far more than anyone else. Most of the ladies found blouses they liked at the same store where Boris got his guaybera and the other place where I found my linens. Janie made a final find of another cute embroidered top and we all had to get one of those too. Afterwards, we stopped for drinks and appetizers at the Giggling Marlin and watched the evening performers practicing in the sun room. Boris ordered some great Belgium fries with dipping sauces that we all liked and the mojitos were enjoyed as well. I bought Rocky a souvenir tee shirt there.

Lobster and Steak night at the house.–photo by Bob Kochman

Back at the house for the evening, we enjoyed pool and fireside drinks and then sat down to our final night dinner of lobster and steak. Margaret had actually convinced our cab driver to help us find balloons. We went to two places and he came back and forth to the cab showing us a variety of sizes, colors, and quantities. She also told Boris he was responsible for blowing them up. After dinner, the guys flat out refused to reenact the Office Balloon Game, so we went outside to the fire pit and enjoyed Gordon’s George Stait music. All of a sudden we see Bobby Dean and MaryAnn playing with those balloons. They couldn’t stop laughing. That is when someone needed a camera.

Final Night gathering at Villa Descanso, Cabo San Lucas.

Final day was a lovely breakfast prepared by Fortunado, packing, and cabs to the airport-girls in one, boys in the other. Once again we enjoyed the new Cabo International terminal and met up again one final time to say goodbye at baggage claim in Houston. It was a fabulous trip. No need to wait for additional hurricane recovery to go to Cabo San Lucas. Already scoping out our house for next year…–Natasha.

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A Lounge Lizard in Cabo San Lucas

Posted on March 4, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Villa Descanso, Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas, California Baja Sur, Mexico

We started our second day in Cabo with a fabulous Fortunado breakfast. Then I just rolled over to the pool to wait until it was time for my 90-minute massage. After the massage and a shower (can’t stand to hang around with all that oil/lotion on me), it was back to pool to wait for lunch. It’s a hard life.

Jose Fernando La Chewbaca and the ladies.–photo by Bob Kochman

Three of our guys headed to the golf course this morning, teeing off at Cabo Real. The other guys seemed to gravitate to the fire pit, while the ladies enjoyed the pool. One of the new hubbies, “Jose Fernando La Chewbaca”, decided this was an opportunity not to be missed and joined the girls in the pool for a photo. Add a margarita on the rocks prepared by our own Todd Mason and you are set for the perfect day. Dinner was also at the house.

Day three a few more ventured away during the day. Boris joined Bob and some of the ladies for a cooking class in downtown Cabo with Nadia Evelyn Garcia Bernal. Those of us that chose to stay at the house and enjoy the sun, had a wonderful lunch prepared by Fortunado.

Fred, Marne, and mariachi players at The Office

Enjoying mariachi players at The Office

Mary Ann also brought a difficult 1000 piece puzzle depicting an Italian village and countryside. Some really dedicated to it, others would wonder over and add a few pieces. Even the border proved difficult and Hondo was accused of pocketing pieces on several occasions.

A wall of sliding glass doors meant you could completely open up the inside to the outside at Villa Descanso in Cabo San Lucas.

The puzzle is on the coffee table in front of the longest leather sofa I have ever seen. The wall is sliding glass panels that completely open the room up to the outside. Any HGTV fans? You’ll know exactly what I am describing. I have always wanted those type of sliding glass panels in a home, but our Houston climate is not the place for it. There are too many days when we need to seal up tight with the air conditioner running to combat the humidity. Nice to be able to enjoy this feature in Cabo where the dessert climate means inside/outside living is perfect in the winter months.

Just arriving for Fiesta night at The Office. Cabo San Lucas

Janie gets into the spirit at Fiesta Night.–photo by Terry Baca.

Today we are headed back to The Office for Fiesta Night. We were fortunate that Janie called ahead for reservations. Billed as a family night event, some of the entertainment was a little colorful, but probably went over the heads of the young children there. The couples balloon contest was hysterical and may encourage a balloon purchase for our own group version. There was a piñata for the kids and several games (both Bob and Jose Fernando made it up on stage). The show closed with regional ballet and a mariachi band.

Mariachi band as part of Fiesta Night at The Office in Cabo San Lucas.–photo by Terry Baca.

A sunrise view from our patio at Villa Descanso.
©Jean Janssen

Bob watched freshly-hatched Ridley turtles try to make it to the ocean on his morning walk.–photo by Bob Kochman

One of the beautiful sites, if you get up early enough, is the fabulous sky at sunrise. I may be a lounge lizard during the day and I may have gone back to bed after snapping a picture, but it is worth getting out of bed to see the infinite variety colors in the sky. Like other mornings, today we also have a group of walkers to brave the steep inclines and walk through the neighborhood and down to the beach. If you are lucky enough, you might even make a few new friends along the way.

sail boat ride out of the cabo marina

Today’s special activity is a sailboat ride out of the Cabo Marina. Organized through Captain Jack, most of our group enjoyed a midday sail with cocktails, food, and smooth waters. They saw quite a few migrating whales, or so they said. I have not seen the photographic evidence, but we have seen quite a few whales on previous trips during this time of year. Those of us that stayed behind had another fabulous Fortunado lunch and went to tour some of the other rental homes in Pedregal. We are staying in a wonderful home, but after the visit even Villa Descanso seemed rather lacking. However, with 8 couples, home sharing can be affordable. Additionally, even with paying for groceries, food preparation, and tips, we are also saving by eating most of our meals “at home” .

Tonight is another dinner at home and drinks around the fire pit. Hondo, Fred, and Gordon also enjoy playing pool in the evenings. Boris just bets on their games (don’t lose my shopping money).

Fire pit at Villa Descanso.

Posted in international | Tagged Cabo San Lucas, Pedregal, The Office on the Beach, Villa Descanso | Leave a comment

Cabo San Lucas, Post Hurricane

Posted on March 3, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Cabo San Lucas with the Pacific Ocean in the foreground, the Sea of Cortez in the rear, and the Pedregal Development to the left.

Our couples travel group is headed back to Cabo for another winter vacation, leaving behind a temperature of 34 for 86 degrees Fahrenheit. We had already booked our house in Pedregal when the Hurricane Odile hit in September 2014. The cat 3 hurricane was the strongest ever to make landfall in the Baja Peninsula of Mexico. It caused major damage to the city, the resorts, and the infrastructure of the entire state of Baja California Sur. “An estimated 92% of the State’s population was left without power or water, the biggest electrical disaster in the history of Mexico, according to the Mexican Electric Company (CFE).”

This is a stock photo of the McDonald’s in San Jose del Cabo near the airport post hurricane. Today, the building is an empty shell with no renovation work in sight.

On the surface, the city of Cabo San Lucas has recovered nicely, although there are traces of the damage still around and there was construction throughout the gated hillside community of Pedregal where we rent the house. More obvious is the destruction near the airport where the McDonald’s is only a shell of a building and the hotel zone (or “the corridor” between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas) has little in operation, although much under reconstruction. We found most of our restaurants and shopping spots open and in good shape and as long as you know the condition of where you are headed and stay generally in Cabo San Lucas, you’ll likely forget that a hurricane hit there less than 6 months ago. Costco has even reopened.

New Terminal at the Los Cabos airport.

Damaged Los Cabos terminal post hurricane.

Travel into the area means enjoying jetways, regular ticket counters, and upgraded security in the new international terminal not yet in operation when we visited two years ago. (United was the last holdout airline to move over. The old terminal now is used for domestic flights within Mexico.) All 16 of us flew in on the same United flight from Houston. The new terminal is so much nicer and I was particularly impressed with passport control where we quickly passed through in contrast to the “cattle call” atmosphere of previous visits. The quaint red/green button is still around. So after collecting your luggage you are still subject to a search if you press the button and the light comes up red. That said, one couple in our party got red and were waved through.

Just keep going after you clear customs and don’t get stopped by the hordes of people trying to sell you tours and transport as you leave the building. Our friend and tour leader, Margaret had prearranged transport to the house. Even after telling them we had arrangements the pesky tour operators asked to see the documentation. These are not government officials. Walk on through and welcome to Mexico; there is a bar right outside the door.

Map depicting the location of the Pedregal development with its entrance just across from the Marina. Lover’s Beach was destroyed by the hurricane.

Our van drivers-we needed two to get all of us and our luggage to Cabo San Lucas-had pre-stocked the vehicles with ice chests full of beer. This is a time saver learned from our previous trips where we were hunting for liquor stores and wasting time in route to the house. The home we are renting is in Pedregal, a secure gated community of homes overlooking the marina, the Sea of Cortez, and the Pacific Ocean. We have stayed in three different homes there, each with a unique view.

Rear (Sea side) of the Villa Descanso, Camino Del Mar #345, Pedregal, Cabo San Lucas

We have two new couples with us on this trip, so we made the move to a different house, Villa Descanso, which has 9 bedrooms. We won’t use the one which has only twin beds. Each couple will have their own kingsize bed and bathroom. Villa Descanso is not as nice as Villa Gran Vista (same owner) which we stayed at last time-it only has 7 bedrooms and we needed 8. But with Villa Descanso we still have the services of our wonderful “man of many talents” Fortunado. Margaret wired money ahead and Fortunado had stocked our pantry, refrigerator, and bar. He also makes us breakfast, lunch for those hanging around the house mid day, and dinner on selected nights.

“The Office”
Cabo San Lucas

There were departing guests that day, so we dropped our luggage off and left the house so the staff could complete the turnaround. With new cabs (you call the front gate at Pedregal and they send the cabs up), we headed into town to one of our favorite spots The Office. I think this is just the best name for a beach side bar and restaurant. “Where are you Natasha? Oh, I’m at the office.” …and none need to be the wiser.

I'm spending the afternoon at the office.

Margaret and Wendy mug for Bob at the Office. –photo by Bob Kochman

Janie and Todd at the Office–photo by Terry Baca

The floor is literally the sand on the beach. You sit at wonderful garden tables covered with colorful linens and shaded by large beach umbrellas. When the sun sets and the weather cools, the umbrellas come down and heaters are set up. Blankets are found on each chair. I love their pina coladas, but I also partook when the tequila shots were offered. It was the first time I had a tequila shot served in a champagne flute.

After drinks and lunch, we headed back to the house to draw for rooms and unpack. It is hard enough to find a house with eight master bedrooms, but all rooms are not created equal. Boris and I had a nice room which opened to a side view of the property and the house next door. There was a small porch which we shared with the other rooms on this floor.

Natasha enjoying her pina coladas and tequila (in the champagne flute) at the Office, Cabo San Lucus–photo by Terry Baca

The warm weather meant that even in the late afternoon/early evening you could put on a swimsuit and enjoy the pool and hot tub. Fortunado made us a wonderful dinner and afterwards we enjoyed drinks by the fire pit. Trip is off to a great start…

Posted in international | Tagged Cabo San Lucas, California Baja Sur, Pedregal | Leave a comment

Frankfurters and a Farewell in Frankfurt

Posted on December 27, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Christmas Market, Frankfurt, Germany
©Jean Janssen

We arrived early at our last stop Frankfurt. We will have the day here and then fly out tomorrow. It is a rainy and cold morning when we set out. Passengers have a choice between a city tour and a market tour with tastings. Since Boris and I aren’t as interested in the modern city and the highlight is the view from a tower which is surrounded by clouds, we opted for the tasting tour.

Sausage Stop, Frankfurt Christmas Market, Germany
©Jean Janssen

American Fare in the Frankfurt Christmas Market. Hamburger anyone?
©Jean Janssen

Our first stop is for sausage-savory before sweet. The Frankfurt Christmas Market just goes on and on from square to square. A former female mayor had worked hard to balance the city budget and save money. The new mayor came in with a building program designed to restore the medieval look to portions of the city and depleted the funds. Building is still underway all around us. There was no question as to how our guide felt on the issue.

We saw lots of different food options here that hadn’t come up in the other markets-the french fries, hamburgers, and salsa all reflect an American influence. This market also features lots of seafood. It was believed that consuming fish prevented a hangover and allowed the patron to consume more alcohol. Belief disproved, they are still popular booths. Our next food stop was the wonderful nuts-spiced in a variety of ways.

Traditional Carousel with a single dark horse, Christmas Market, Frankfurt, Germany
©Jean Janssen

As we came into the main square, we saw a wonderful traditional carousel. Our guide said they were originally part of a game of the nobility. The ladies raced to the carousel and whoever reached the single dark horse first had the attention of the Lord for the evening. This carousel still reflected that tradition with the beautiful white horses and a single dark one.

Jan demonstrates the proper way to devour the local delicacy, a cloud kiss, in the Frankfurt, Germany Christmas Market
©Jean Janssen

The infinite variety of the cloud kiss. Frankfurt Christmas Market.
©Jean Janssen

Our next treat was a cloud kiss filled with something like a marshmallow cream. The outside covering came in lots of different flavors, all of them chocolate. They were supposed to be wonderful.

My new favorite German dessert, bethmaennchen, a pastry made with marzipan and commonly found at Christmas time.

At our next stop we tried my favorite made with marzipan (almond paste). The bethmaennchen was created for a local noble family with four almonds on the side reflecting the family’s four sons. When one of the sons died, the treat was redesigned with three almonds and is still made that way today. Yummy. I bought a bag to bring home and will definitely have to hide from Boris. (I am actually eating them as I type this post. Just thinking about them made me go grab the bag.)

These figures originally made from prunes were the poor man’s version of a portrait given to the girl he desired. He dressed the figure to look like him. If she accepted the prune figure, she accepted him.
©Jean Janssen

Frankfurt, Germany-old and new
©Jean Janssen

Crossing the street, we saw Frankfurt’s version of the bridge of sighs. Our next treat was a wonderful donut. At this point I realized that Boris was not with the group. He reappeared, frankfurter in hand. It has been his mission to have one today.

The market just went on and on. We passed a dark Burger King and were told that a BK with health violations had been found, so they closed all of them, putting 4,000 people out of work at Christmas time. They are apparently pretty serious about the health code enforcement (or someone made someone mad).

When we reached the Galleria Mall, our tour was over. Our guide told everyone to just head downhill toward the river. Before winding back through the market, Boris and I stepped into the department store and had to find a suitcase so we could take all our purchases home with us. We each get two free 70 lbs bags so we are able to make purchase to bring home.

Natasha and her frankfurter in Frankfurt. The red hat is the one I bought in Rothenburg.

The classic frankfurter-on bread. Add mustard and some crispy fried onions to make it perfect.

Going back through the market, this time we stopped at a few stalls and it was time for me to try the famous Frankfurt frankfurter. Boris spent the time arguing with the young man about Americans inventing the hotdog. I just wanted to try it. You could have the American version, as Boris did, the dog on a bun. I opted for the classic, two wieners on bread. To that I added mustard and crispy fried onions. Sauerkraut was another option. I think I made the right call; Boris can have his buns.

Christmas Market, Frankfurt, Germany
©Jean Janssen

My final stop was near the entrance where I bought yet another felt hat. I love the unique hats here and buying gives me an excuse to travel to colder climates in the winter. Got to be able to wear them.

Along the river in Frankfurt Germany where Uniworld’s River Queen is docked.
©Jean Janssen

Back on board, we had to do our packing now that we have enough suitcases. I actually had a tough time getting everything into the two large and one medium rolling duffle bags. Part of the problem is that we needed so much stuffing for the delicate items we had bought. If you are coming to the Christmas markets, I recommend bringing along some bubble wrap.

I liked the River Queen, even better than the River Beatrice. I enjoyed the Juliet balcony on the Beatrice better, but the lighter colors on the Queen were nice with the dreary weather. I would say that last years itinerary offered more variety in the type of Christmas markets we visited, but the daily tours were good both times. Your first time out, just choose the locations that you prefer. I think we will continue with Uniworld with there all inclusive packages. As returning guests, we even got two bags of complimentary laundry, so we went home with a lot of clean clothes. I could have packed even less.

Sunday morning, we had a full breakfast and waited in the Lounge until our included transfer was called. It was a quick trip to the airport and we have a direct flight back to Houston from Frankfurt on United. It has been a fabulous trip.

Merry Christmas from Boris and Natasha…

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged bethmaennchen, Frankfurt, frankfurter, Germany, River Queen, Uniworld | Leave a comment

Wertheim, Germany

Posted on December 27, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Water level markings as early as 1595) on the buildings in Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Today we are docked at the small village of Wertheim. Ordinarily, there would be a visit to a private castle in the afternoon, but the family is not opening the home this day, so our touring is limited. This traditional village at the intersection of Tauber and Main rivers has suffered more from flooding than bombing. All over the town there are marks indicating how high the water level has been. Wertheim has a charming medieval feel and has been referred to as “little Heidelberg”.

Wertheim is in the northernmost corner of the German state of Baden Wurtemberg. The city is mentioned in chronicles staging as early as the 8th century and was once the seat of the ruling Counts of Wertheim-Breubeg. In Wertheim, you will find one the ruins of one of the oldest large stone fortresses in southern Germany, dating back to 1100.

Burg Wertheim, one of the largest stone fortresses in southern Germany, dating from 1100.
©Jean Janssen

Converted city walls in Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Like other medieval cities, portions of the city walls remain. Wertheim citizens cleverly converted the walls into shops, homes, and other structures. We stopped first at the Pointed Tower, now leaning due to the extensive flooding. Even small Wertheim has worked to acknowledge its further Jewish presence, outlining the location of a former synagog and marking the building and streets where former Jewish residents lived.

Along the Tauber River, Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

We are docked on the Main (pronounced like Mine or Mein) River, but we wandered over to the Tauber and saw the fishermen’s cottages lining this picturesque spot. Headed back into town, we saw the glass works museum, town hall, and some beautiful churches and chapels. Look up from almost any spot and you can see the ruins of the Burg Wertheim which dominates from above.

Susan and Janet pose with the Wild Boar at our sausage booth. Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Angel’s Well, Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Returning to the medieval city center, we found a few more booths in the market open and ended our tour at the Angel’s Well. I found some unique gifts in the market and Boris and I had some excellent gluhwein (hot spiced wine). Feeling fortified and brave, we tried some wild boar sausage. It was quite good. Boris even got some to take home.

Medieval mark of the Buther Hans Stark, dating from 1583. Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

There were lots of interesting spots to photograph, but Wertheim can be seen in half a day. After snacking and shopping, we headed back to the ship to warm up. It is a short tour day. Everyone was back on the boat, so we even left early heading out to Frankfurt and enjoying our only day of viewing from the boat. Leaving Wertheim, we had a wonderful view of the castle ruins. We were in the dining room at the rear of the boat and I so wished I had had my camera. Traveling the opposite direction would give you a lovely view.

Boris, Frank, and Steve enjoy in the Wertheim Christmas Market ©Jean Janssen

Boris, Frank, and Steve enjoy the Wertheim Christmas Market
©Jean Janssen

I spent the afternoon in the Lounge enjoying the views along the river. My intent was to sort through my materials and do a little writing, but I did a lot more visiting instead. Occasionally you would look out and see a lovely castle or ruins along the way. There were river side villages showing the signs of late fall, but no winter snow as yet. I love these afternoons of just looking out. Boris napped. I only wished it was warm enough to sit outside. Instead I was near a door so I could pop out and take a photograph before returning quickly inside for the warmth.

Along the Main River, Germany
©Jean Janssen

medieval carvings, Wertheim, Germany
©Jean Janssen

There was a cookie making demonstration and (like last year) recipes that will require difficult to find ingredients and amount conversions from metric. I met the husband of the couple who were the single pair to stay on board when the boat moved from Kitzingen to Wurzburg when we toured Rothenburg. His wife had been sick. He said they had a great day, the chef making them whatever they wanted for lunch (he had a steak) and being waited on in the lounge by 6 staff members while they cruised the river. They did go through quite a few locks that day.

In the morning we will dock in Frankfurt early. We have been given tour options for the city and will spend another night on board before an early departure on Sunday.

Along the Main River, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Along the Main River, near Wertheim, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged Germany, Main River, Tauber River, Werheim, wild boar sausage | Leave a comment

Wurzburg, Germany

Posted on December 22, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Fortress of Marienberg, Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

After our visit to Rothenburg, we catch up with the boat in Wurzburg. This evening we have lighted views of the Fortress of Marienberg, the original Prince Bishops Residence, and the Chapel up on the hill.

The Residence, home of the Prince Bishops, Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

For our morning tour with a twenty-one year old college student as our guide, the weather is even colder and the rain a greater threat. We are visiting the Residence, the home of the Prince Bishops. In the entry hall, we have to deposit our personal items, including cameras, in a locker. With my coat being so heavy, I decided to leave it locked up; I was cold the whole time.

Imperial Staircase, The Residence, Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Frescoed ceiling of the Imperial Staircase, The Residence, Wurzburg, Germany

The vestibule is now closed but was originally open and designed so a coach could turn without difficulty. The vaulting is a low elevation to provide an architectural contrast to the lofty staircase. The frescoed ceiling above the staircase is the largest in Europe. It depicts the continents that were known to exist at the the time, highlighting the artist’s limited knowledge of foreign lands. For example, after being told that an ostrich was a bird that could run as fast as a man, the ostrich was painted with human legs. At the corners of the ceiling, there is statuary that appears to be lifting from the painting.

Stucco Dragon by Antonio Bossi on the ceiling of Weisser Saal, The Residence, Wurzburg, Germany

My favorite room was White Hall (Weisser Saal) designed as the guard room with some military motifs. It is grey and white, with touches of darker grey and gold in the corners which looked like fabric. The stucco decoration is said to be the masterpiece of Antonio Bossi. White Hall stands in contrast to the adjoining rooms-the painted ceilings of the Imperial Staircase and Imperial Hall. In White Hall, check out the stucco dragons on opposite sides of the room. Showing humor, the artist designed male and female dragons, the female with breasts.

The Imperial Hall, The Residence, Wurzburg, Germany. The wedding portrait is on the top portion of the far wall.

The adjoining Imperial Hall featured faux marble on the columns, elaborate painting that was actually more expensive that using real marble. There is lots of color and gilding in this room. The four large and impressive chandeliers were saved from the WWII destruction of the palace by being stored in butter. The Hall also features famous paintings. One features Fredrich I Babrarossa and his 12-year-old bride Beatrix of Burgundy. Barbarossa was still married at the time, but needed heirs. The bigamist Emperor had to find a priest that would marry them. He elevated Wurzburg Bishop Herold to Duchy of Franconia in exchange for performing the rites. The painting on the opposite side of the hall features this event. The artist made subtle references to the unholiness of the act in the painting, showing Beatrix as a pregnant bride and covering the crucified Jesus to show his dissatisfaction with the marriage.

The Mirror Cabinet, The Residence, Wurzburg, Germany

We then visited the southern Imperial Bedrooms including the anteroom, audience chamber, venetian room, and mirror cabinet. The Mirror Cabinet was completely destroyed by bombing in 1945. Based on a single preserved mirror fragment, photographs, and a watercolor, the room was recreated between 1979 and 1987, using the old techniques. The detailed mirrors with paintings were inspired by Versailles and are a UNESCO site.

Stone Work on the Imperial Chapel, Wurzburg, Germany. Burial place of the Prince Bishops.
©Jean Janssen

Holocaust markers, Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Due to time and weather, we did not visit the northern apartments or the garden. Instead we walked into the downtown with its many spires-each Prince Bishop needed his masterpiece. We saw the Chapel, the burial place that could be seen from the palace. We passed gold-colored medal stones acknowledging victims of the Holocaust. Finally, we came to the town hall, very near the Christmas market.

“St. Nicholas” in the Wurzburg Germany Christmas Market
©Jean Janssen

The Christmas Market had charming decorations. We saw “St. Nicholas” with a group enjoying a wine tasting. I found some unique glass ornaments in this market. Boris continues to collect his lighted houses. On the edge of the market we came upon a lovely yellow-painting building with wreaths and lighted candles in the window. Boris found a lighted house modeled after this building. We had to go into my emergency cash, but it was the purchase of the day.

A lighted house modeled after this lovely building was the purchase of the day in Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

The classic German Christmas decoration, life-sized and topping a market booth in Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

The three-tiered spinner with movement originally powered by candles is the classic German Christmas decoration. In Wurzburg, we saw a building-sized version. Leaving the Christmas market, we walked back to the river going down the stairs at the bridge covered with statuary which is reminiscent of Prague. From this vantage point, I got the daylight view of the Fortress of Marienburg. It was a cold, rainy day, but I love it. It feels like Christmas. Boris was tired and never got his afternoon nap (as I did on the beer tour day). He is staying in for the afternoon while I go on the optional afternoon tour to Aschfeld.

So in spite of the rain and cold, 49 of the passagers-almost half of the 110 on board-set out to visit a Franconian Village. This is where a little German would have come in handy.

Wurzburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

We had about a 40-minute drive to Aschfeld. The local hosts spoke only German so our guide translated, meaning all the jokes were delayed. We met in the church and were told about the history and the museum layout. Achfeld is at the intersection of two medieval trade routes. The church-castle was a medieval fort used by the citizens when under siege by “rambling warriors”. When a confrontation was anticipated, the villagers moved themselves and all their belongings (including animals) into the compound. The wall provided a four-story stronghold with a watchtower last used for shelter during the 30-years war. The fortress has never been breached, mostly likely owing more to the poverty of the inhabitants rather than the inability to breach the 4-story walls.

The restored cellars of the church castle of Aschfeld, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Headstone in the Ashfeld, Germany cemetery. Note the symbol and years noted (not a life span).
©Jean Janssen

The long-time 80+ year old mayor spoke about this experience during WWII. Aschfeld had no production facilities or military installations and simply surrendered when the Americans arrived. The soldiers gave the young boys gum, chocolates, and cigarettes and struck up friendships. The girls were kept inside. He seemed eager to share a camaraderie with the mostly American guests visiting today.

The museum head also spoke to our group, again through a translator. She told us that in 1981 when the community was celebrating its 1200th anniversary and the 300th anniversary of the church’s confirmation, the citizens converted one of the storage cellars into a display of how the property was previously used. The community began buying up the castle cellars which at that time were in private hands and also secured vintage items to use in the displays. By 1992, they had secured all the property and converted the rest back to the medieval style. The interior items are vintage, but mostly of the last century.

Recreated pub and post office, Ashfeld Germany
©Jean Janssen

Sample rooms include a craftsman’s workshop, barn, cider cellar, village exhibits, loan office, laundry and slaughterhouse-yes, in the same room using the same equipment-post office, pub, distillery, huntsman ship vestry, quarry, village school, fire brigade, shopkeeper’s store, and kitchen. My favorite room was the post office/pub combination room, put together much as they would have in the past.

Our second St. Nicholas sighting of the day. The Aschfeld Mayor.
©Jean Janssen

After our tour, the community offered us homemade cakes and cookies. The mayor returned dressed as St. Nicholas and gave each of us a treat from his sack. This was a not to be missed venue and opportunity.

Returning to the ship, we enjoyed dinner and later a glassblowing demonstration in the lounge in anticipation of Wertheim and its concentration of glass artists. You would think the guests did not have enough shopping opportunities at the markets given the lines to purchase the glass items. One of the guests also happened to work with glass and she was invited up to participate in the demonstration.

It was a great day in spite of the cold and rain. Still no snow.

Glass Blowing demonstration aboard Uniworld’s River Queen.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged Antonio Bossi, Aschfeld, church-castle, Fortress of Marienberg, Germany, The Residence, Weisser Saal, Wurzburg | Leave a comment

Rothenburg, Germany

Posted on December 19, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Snowballs, the delicacy of Rothenburg, Germany, a fried pastry with powdered sugar
©Jean Janssen

Today is a slightly varied schedule as we head out to Rothenberg Germany, a very popular place for tourists in this part of Germany. The town has well-preserved medieval structures and is a walled city. We depart the boat that will then move to Wurzburg where we will rejoin it at the end of our tour day. This is a full day excursion with lunch on our own. It is expected to be very cold with rain in the afternoon.

Figures from the play, Meistertrunk, appear in the windows of the City Councillors’ Tavern on Marktplatz in Rothenburg, Germany.
©Jean Janssen

View down a street in Rothenburg, Germany toward Roder Arch/Markus Tower, part of the first fortifications from the 1200s.
©Jean Janssen

We are scheduled to depart at 9 am, but by 8:45 all but four passengers were aboard. One couple had decided not to go. The other couple appeared just before 9; they were not late, but it was still not fun for them to pass three buses of people who had all been waiting for them for 15 minutes.

We had a hour and a half bus ride on the Romantic Road named not for the love interest it inspires, but for the romantic style of art that came from this region. Parts of the drive were indeed lovely. We parked in the bus lot and then waited in the long line at the public toilets that cost 50 cents in Germany. Worst smell ever. I felt sorry for the guys, as the ladies had also commandeered their bathroom to ease the line.

Along the outer walls, Rothenburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

We entered Rothenburg’s Hospital District through an opening in the outer wall. This district is outside the original city walls to maintain health. Visitors or returned residents had to be certified healthy before they could enter the city to protect against the plague and other diseases. Unfortunately, some were able to pay their way through this checkpoint, so it wasn’t a perfect system. Later an outer wall was added and the Hospital District was incorporated into the protected area of the city.

The Plonlein, the street fork with Siebersturn Gate (Siebers Tower) on the left and Kobolzell Tower/Gate on the right. Rothenburg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

After passing through Sieberstum Gate (or Siebers Tower) we walked up Schmiedgasse (Smithy’s Lane), the street heading to the main square. We turned around for the view of the Plonlein, the street fork with Siebers Tower on the left and Kobolzell Gate/Tower on the right. This is the postcard shot of Rothenburg. We passed the Red Roter Hahn (red rooster) Restaurant, former home of Mayor Nusch who saved the town for Protestism by downing a gigantic tankard of ale in one gulp on a bet. (The play Meistertrunk is based on this legend). We had a couple of food stops along the way, sampling their famous sweet, the snowball and the local sausages.

The Master Builders’ House displaying the seven virtues and seven vices of the middle ages. Rothenburg, Germany.
©Jean Janssen

Santa busker, Rothenburg, Germany. Santa's dog is real and walked around on his shoulder while he played and sang Christmas carols. ©Jean Janssen

Santa busker, Rothenburg, Germany. Santa’s dog is real and walked around on his shoulder and across the accordion while Santa played and sang Christmas carols.
©Jean Janssen

We passed St. John’s church and the Medieval Crime Museum with displays of medieval tourture instruments and methods of punishment. Just before reaching the square, we saw the master builder’s house with its statuary display of the seven virtues and seven vices. The building has a wonderful inter courtyard that now houses a restaurant. The attached guesthouse is where Mrs. Topper tried to dig a tunnel to the prison dungeon to get her husband, Lord Mayor Topple out. Like in Salzburg, the stores maintain their wonderful iron signs displaying the type of business. Rothenberg is a shopper’s paradise and it was a little tough to stay with the tour group rather than veer off into a shop.

Reaching Marktplatz (Market Square), we were looking straight at the Councilmen’s Tavern. The structure features windows that open on the hour displaying the figures of the Meisertruck. Oddly, the figures don’t move to the edge or out of window, so they are very difficult to see. The town hall is just to the left of the City Councillors’ Tavern and behind it is old town hall (Gothic Town Hall) with its 60 meter tower; the prison entrance is just there. Part of the Christmas Market was in Marktplatz

Marktplatz, Rothenburg, Germany featuring the City Councillors' Tavern and Gothic and New Town Hall. ©Jean Janssen

Our meeting place is the fountain just off the square, Georgsbrunnen (St. George’s Fountain); access to the water sources were hidden so attackers could not cut off the city’s water supply. In Medieval times, the Gallows, pillory, and the hoisted cage were set up here. The Shepherds dance was held around the well to banish the plaque. This tradition is maintained today with the dance now being performed in the square. The fountain is also referred to as Herterichs’ Well. Just behind the well is the steep half-timbered gabled house built for Mayor Jasgstheimer in 1488.

Georgsbrunnen, St. George’s Fountain and the half-timbered Jagstheimer House, Rothenburg, Germany. The fountain is enclosed at this time of year due to weather.
©Jean Janssen

View from a city wall near the Franciscan Church, Rothenburg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Franciscan Church courtyard nativity scene. Rothenburg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Our tour ended at the well and we had several hours of free time. Boris went straight to the armament store and I passed the Historiengewolbe (historic archway) with dungeon access and headed down Herrngasse, the favorite residential street of the town nobility, towards the castle gardens and Franziskanerkirche, the Franciscan church. I first passed by the Herrenbrunnen (gentry well). Before entering the church, I went down a lane and saw the nativity scene in the church courtyards and had a nice view from the city wall.

Tombstones in the Franciscan Church, Rothenburg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

The Franciscan church was simple, but notable for the preserved Lettner, a wooden division between the monk’s gallery (inside) and the sitting area for laymen (outer area where you enter the church). There is a beautiful carved main altar portraying the stigmatization of St. Francis of Assisi. I really liked the neat tombstones on the floors, walls, and pillars, often portraying the deceased in their medieval garb.

Boris was not at our meeting spot, so I tracked him down still at the armament store. He was finished, so I headed back to visit Kathe Wohlfahrt’s store and her world-famous Christmas products. These are her flagship stores with the company headed and started in Rothenburg. Boris informed me that the salesman told him that he was sure he was going to buy more until his wife showed up. I am sure that was true. As is, he ordered a cape, sword, and shield. I was just surprised he didn’t buy the chain mail.

The Red Rooster Inn and Restaurant where we had our lunch. Note the plague signifying that this was the former home of Mayor Nusch of Meistertrunk fame. Rothenburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

We ended up on opposite sides of the fountain, not realized the other was there. About 15 minutes later and frustrated, we both decided to give up when we spotted each other. We decided to take a break for lunch back at the Red Rooster. Afterwards, we did a little shopping along Schmiedgasse included a Leyk store (Boris has developed a fondness for the small ceramic houses that tea lights are placed inside. We bought a few last year and added to our collection while in Rothenburg. Like Kathe Wohlfahrt, Leyk is headquartered in Rothenburg. I also bought a hat and scarf from a shop specializing in felt clothing, all made on the premises.

Returning to the square, our eventual meeting spot, we wandered around looking at the various Christmas Markets, eventually coming to the imposing St. Jacob’s Church. Access for inside visiting and photos was hard with the market stalls surrounding it. We didn’t find anything to buy in the Rothenburg Christmas Markets.

Christmas Market on Marktplatz, Rothenburg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

View toward Marktplatz from Herrngasse with the Herrenbrunnen (gentry well) in the foreground. Rothenburg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged Franziskanerkirche, Georgsbrunnen, Germany, Herrrenbrunnen, Lettner, Leyk, Meistertrunk, plonlein, Rothenburg, Schmiedgasse | Leave a comment

Bamburg, Germany

Posted on December 18, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Town Hall, Bamberg Germany ©Jean Janssen

Bamberg Germany is a wonderful medieval city that sustained very little damage during WWII since it was without military installation or production facilities. It has a unique town hall built in the middle of the river. When approaching the Bishop about construction, the town leaders were told that they could not built on church land; their solution was to build in the river. This is an exceeding charming town with its waterways and preserved original buildings. We took a short bus ride from our docking site to the city. We are still traveling on the canal joining the Danube and the Main Rivers. Berths are not too scenic.

We had a funny and informative guide who in her words “made her living on the streets”. Our walking tour began in new town where we passed the square where the market began. There was a large tree where residents could make a donation and place an ornament on the tree. The same square has a statute of Poseidon/Neptune with his trident. Because some residents are not up on their mythology, he has been nicknamed Goblmoo “Forkman” It is a popular meeting place for young people.

The market mostly still closed this early, we went on to the town hall with its beautiful and colorful frescos. A statuary angle stood out, pointing to the name of the artist, his form of advertising. This “island” is the link between the old and new town and is an area between the west bank of the river and Cathedral Hill. From the bridge, there is also a lovely view of little Venice. The flow of the river is powerful here. The generated power previously supported 40 mill wheels, today this hydro power serves 100 homes with electricity.

Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George, Bamberg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

The beautiful medieval streets are lined with amazing homes and shops. Since visible are the iron signs indicating the type of merchant who had this shop there. Since most residents of this previous time could not read, the symbol signs were indispensable. We went up to the Cathedral of St. Peter and St. George. The archway of Adam’s Porch depicts St. Stephen, St. Cunigunde, and Emperor St. Heinrich II. Inside the sarcophagus depicts legends from the life of the Imperial couple, Cunigunde and Heinrich, who were later canonized.

The church also contains the statue of the Bamberg Horseman, a life-size statute (scaled as to the size of that time) of a knight and his horse. Although unidentified, it is now believed to be King Stephen of Hungary who is the husband of Gisela, sister of Heinrich II. The statute faces the spot where the sarcophagus of Cunigunde and Heinrich was originally placed.

Also of significance, the Cathedral contains the only known papal tomb north of the Alps. Pope Clement II who served briefly as pontiff in 1046 and is believed to have been poisoned is buried there. A side altar displays a wood altar panel with a Christmas theme. Our guide joked that it showed baby Jesus, Mary’s second child. Apparently, the original carved Jesus fell off when the honey-colored panel was died walnut in line with the fashion of the time.

Cathedral Nativity Scene. This week Elizabeth greets Mary. The scene changes weekly as Advent progresses. Bamberg, Germany
©Jean Janssen

Inside there is a lovely Nativity Scene which changes each week of Advent rather than including all the figures when it is set up. This is common in the churches in this very Catholic region of Germany.

Inner Courtyard of former castle of Heinrich II, Bamberg, Germany Now the sight of concerts and theater productions in summer.
©Jean Janssen

Next to the Cathedral is the striking edifice of a plain chancery constructed in the German Renaissance style next to a beautiful gate with tow reclining figures representing the Main and Regnitz Rivers which merge in Bamberg. Since is where the palace of Emperor Heinrich II stood. The gate leads into an inner courtyard where the half-timbered medieval buildings have steep saddleback roofs that were originally kitchens, storerooms, stables, and a smithy. There were later used as apartments until fire codes discontinued that use. Today it is the sight of summer theater and concerts.

The "New" Residence, the bishop's home, Bamberg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Leaving the Courtyard, we saw the Residence built for the Cathedral Bishops and ventured to the Rose Garden in the back where little “outhouses” protected the plants during the cold summer months. From the Rose Garden we also had a view of St. Michael’s Abbey. This former Benedictine Abbey was established in 1015. It is currently used as a retirement home and is under renovation.

St. Michael's Abbey, Bamberg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Returning to the “new” town, we made a stop along the lower bridge connecting the Town Hall to look at Little Venice. These are the rear of picturesque houses from the 15th and 16th century build along the River Regnitz. There living rooms overlook the river, where normally houses were constructed with the living room facing the street. Their closed cellars used to be open halls for punt-like boats called schelche.

We were back by “Forkman” and St. Martin’s, a former Jesuit and University Church. The street widens here and it is common area for markets. We spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon enjoying the Christmas market. After lunch, Boris is going on his beer tour and today is the River Heritage Cocktail Reception for returning guests, an oddity because it is held in the same lounge where the rest of the ship guests are, but in a roped off area. Good afternoon for a nap.

Boris and Natasha in the Christmas Market. Bamberg, Germany

At this the beginning of our cruise, we are not actually on a city center river but an man-made industrial canal. It was never anticipated that there would be much passenger river traffic. One commercial boat a day was anticipated. Now, in additional to all the industry traffic, these canals see 10 river cruise boats a day.

Our river cruise ship, Uniworld’s River Queen on the industrial canal outside Bamberg, Germany. Note the knight logo on the storage building.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged Bamberg, Germany, River Queen, Uniworld | Leave a comment

Nuremberg, Germany

Posted on December 9, 2014 by travelbynatasha

Nuremberg in 1945 after bombing

There is a full day of touring today in Nuremberg. (Here is my shout out to my dive buddy who was born in this city.) This morning we are headed to the castle and then to the Christmas market. This afternoon is the WWII tour to the Nazi Rally Grounds and Courtroom 600, site of the Nazi War Crimes Trials. Nuremberg (sign posted Nurnberg, with the two dots above the “u” in German) sustained severe bombing during the Second World War with 91% of the buildings damaged. The citizens decided to rebuild the medieval buildings within the 3 miles of city walls, which at 16 feet thick survived the bombing. In fact the city walls and large round watch towers were air raid shelters during the war. Nuremberg has long been an industrial city and with its military production facilities made it a prime target during the war.

Nuremberg Castle, note the date ©Jean Janssen

Nuremberg first appears in an historic record in 1050. A knight, a nobleman, fell in love with a servant girl who he was unable to marry as she did not have free status as a citizen. He made a request to the king for her to receive the appropriate status and the resulting document resulted in the first recorded mention of Nuremberg. Citizens are proud that there history begins with a love story.

Skyline of Nuremberg from the castle. Note the industrial smokestacks, communications tower, and the church spires-symbols of the city past and present
©Jean Janssen

Nuremberg was one of Germany largest cities in the 15 and 16th century as a major player in trade with Asia. Unfortunately, trade could not be maintained during the Thirty Years War between Catholics and Protestants and the economy was in ruins. With trade shifting to cities with a water route, the city really didn’t regain its importance until industrialization in the 19th century. The first German train travel was the seven mile stretch between Nuremberg and Furth. Nuremberg’s manufacturing emphasis remains today with Siemens (engineering technology) and MAN (transportation units-originally rail cars, now trucks) with major production sites in the region. Today, Nuremberg is the second largest city in the state of Bavaria, after Munich, and the largest city in Franconia.

Entrance to Nuremberg Castle, above the deep moat. ©Jean Janssen

Our walking tour began with a short walk up to the castle where we saw first hand how difficult it would be to breach. First there was the deep moat, the the curve entrance which often made it difficult to make the turn with the battering ram, and finally the hallway with overhead openings where hot oil could be dropped in. Fortunately, there were no such obstacles today. The castle perch gave us lovely views of the city and all the red roof tops.

After our exterior visit, we walked down to the main square and the Christmas market. The square includes a wonderful gated fountain. The ironwork around it was later added to get people from allowing their animals to drink from the clear water. A water spout allowed access via bucket. There is also a large brass ring on the dark ironwork.

Nuremberg Christmas Market with gated fountain. ©Jean Janssen

Legend has it that the ironwork blacksmith had a daughter that his apprentice wanted to wed. The blacksmith preferred that his daughter marry a master craftsman and forbid the marriage. Whereupon, the distraught suitor placed the brass ring on the fountain ironwork and left to live out the rest of his days in the forest. The blacksmith upon seeing the work and being unable to find the seam, was so impressed that he changed his mind and permitted the marriage. Unfortunately, the young man had fled into the forest. The daughter came the next morning and turned the ring clockwise three times and wished that she might see him again and the apprentice reappeared. It is said that if you turn the ring three times and make your wish, you will get your heart’s desire.

The Christmas market in this square is said to be the oldest in Germany, in fact the world. It was not at as large as I had thought, but we did find a few nice and unique items. Nuremberg is also famous for its bratwurst and we tried one of the small sausage sandwiches. There was also nuts and gingerbread to be purchased. Boris found an ATM; between the sausage and his cash, he was happy.

Zeppelin Field Grandstand in 1930s, site of the Nazi Rallies, Nuremberg, Germany

After a bus ride back to the ship, we had a nice lunch aboard. Some people were headed back into town to return to the Christmas Market, but Boris and I joined other passengers for an optional WWII tour focusing on the Nuremberg connection. We went first to the Nazi Rally Grounds. Because bombing was focused on the manufacturing facilities and military personnel, the rally grounds were generally untouched by the bombing. Our first stop was the Zeppelin field, familiar from the propaganda photos taken in this area.

Zeppelin Field Grandstand today, Nazi Rally Grounds, Nuremberg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

100,000 men could stand in Zeppelin field while another 60,000 could sit in the grandstand and surrounding stadium seating. The stastika on the grandstand was destroyed by American military after the War and in 1967 the city removed the roman columns and backdrop from the stage to keep the grounds from being a pilgrimage site for neo-nazis. Zeppelin Field was part of a much larger, multi-building complex that was to be completed after the war.

Ruins of open air interior of Congress Hall on the Nazi Rally Grounds, Nuremberg, Germany ©Jean Janssen

Exterior of Congress Hall on the Nazi Rally Grounds, now a museum entitled the Documentation Center. Congress Hall was modeled after the Coliseum in Rome. ©Jean Janssen

After leaving Zeppelin Field, we went to the Documentation Center. There is no mistaking what building this is modeled after, the Coliseum in Rome. The building, originally called Congress Hall was designed with an opening to hold 50,000 people in the center. Congress Hall was never completed. It now houses a museum.

Photograph of the Nuremberg Trial defendants guarded by military police.

Our final stop of the day was at the Palace of Justice, chosen as the site of the war crime trials of the most notorious nazi criminals. Unlike most of Nuremberg, the Palace of Justice and the prison just behind it had survived the WWII bombing and could be made relatively secure. To avoid sniper attacks or escape attempts while the prisons were transferred, a tunnel was built to connect the buildings and the prisoners were brought up directly to the courtroom via elevator. The curtains to the courtroom were kept closed during the proceedings.

Boris in the courtroom at the Palace of Justice site of the Nuremberg Trials. The defendants block is against the wall with the elevator control and doors visible against that wall.
©Jean Janssen

East Wing of the Palace of Justice where Nuremberg Trials were held. The courtroom is on the upper floor to the right in the photograph.
©Jean Janssen

This courtroom is still active so it is not always available for visitors. We were very fortunate that court was not in session late this Monday afternoon so we were able to go inside and take photographs. As attorneys, it was quite a moving experience for Boris and I.

On the ride back to the boat, our guide, born and raised in Nuremberg told us about his own family’s experiences. Some were supporters of the nazis; some were not. His great grand father was originally a member of the party but became disillusioned and began to speak out against them. He was imprisoned and when released did not speak of his experience. When the Americans retrieved records after the war, he was identified and was asked to serve in the post-war tribunals.

Our boat leaves dock today and we are off for more Christmas adventures after a full day of history. Let the water travel begin…Merry Christmas from Natasha.

Posted in international, River Cruise | Tagged Nazi rallies, Nuremberg, Nuremberg trials | Leave a comment