Glasgow, Scotland

Ted and I felt like we were invited to the wedding.  As seen from our double-decker Hop-on/Hop-off Bus in Glasgow, Scotland. ©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I felt like we were invited to the wedding.  As seen from our double-decker Hop-on/Hop-off Bus in Glasgow, Scotland.
©Jean Janssen

Today we dock in Greenock, a port city for Glasgow in the lowlands of Scotland.  Glasgow itself is considered a port city, but the channel is so dry, that larger boats can no longer get in.  Glasgow is the largest city in Scotland and the third largest in the United Kingdom behind London and Birmingham.

This was the first thing we saw when we got off the boat for our first port in Scotland, the Haggis Hut.   ©Jean Janssen

The Haggis Hut was the first thing we saw when we got off the boat for our first port in Scotland.  
©Jean Janssen

When in Scotland...   ©Jean Janssen

When in Scotland…
©Jean Janssen

Predictions of more bad weather and my limited knowledge of Glasgow as an industrial city, we weren’t sure we wanted to mess with the 1-1 1/2 hour train ride in.  We decided to see if we have anything of interest locally first.  The shopping street was very limited; there was an indoor mall, the shortest path to the train station, but not much else.  We did spot one interesting Government Building and a clock tower.  We pretty quickly decided to head into Glasgow.  We found the train station and bought roundtrip tickets.  We had maps and set out to find the stop for the hop-on/hop-off bus once we got to Glasgow.

Train travel along the River Clyde from Greenock to Glasgow, Scotland.  The canal is no longer deep enough for our cruise ship to go closer in to the city.  ©Jean Janssen

Train travel along the River Clyde from Greenock to Glasgow, Scotland.  The canal is no longer deep enough for our cruise ship to go closer in to the city.
©Jean Janssen

The train ride along side the river was fun and lasted less than 40 minutes.  We passed through another village named Port Glasgow; it appears the deep water continues to recede or I suspect we would have berthed here.  The train itself was very nice.  We had seats sitting across from one another.  Others had brought a lunch and were enjoying it on the tables and we wished we had done the same.  We decided lunch was the first order of business after our arrival; of course, I suggested fish and chips.

Glasgow Central Train Station.  Note the great metal awning and the fish and chips shop right next door.  ©Jean Janssen

Glasgow Central Train Station.  Note the great metal awning and the fish and chips shop right next door. 
©Jean Janssen

Glasgow Central Station ©Jean Janssen

Glasgow Central Station
©Jean Janssen

The Glasgow Central Train Station is wonderful, picturesque and full of amenities.  We got a feel for the signage regarding our return and found a map let us know the direction out of the structure would get us to our destination.  We couldn’t believe it.  The first thing we saw heading out the main entrance was a Traditional Fish and Chips shop.  One got a drink and one meal to share and followed the map to one of the bus stops.  The fish was hot, fresh, and delicious and wrapped in paper in the traditional way.  The chips were hot and salty.  We had a great lunch and decide to walk the extra block to the originating stop for the bus so we could take the full tour from the beginning.

George Square, Glasgow, Scotland  ©Jean Janssen

George Square, Glasgow, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

The tour began right on the city’s main square.  We headed first to the east side of the city passing the Cathedral, numerous museums, Tennent’s Brewery, and Weekend Market.  We then made it over to Glasgow Green and did a turn by the Doulton Fountain and the People’s Palace and Winter Gardens.

People Palace and Winter Garden, Glascow, Scotland with exhibits on how people lived in the 18th-20th centuries.   ©Jean Janssen

People Palace and Winter Garden, Glascow, Scotland with exhibits on how people lived in the 18th-20th centuries. 
©Jean Janssen

Rocky was on the hunt for the Tardis (of Dr. Who fame) in Glasgow. ©Jean Janssen

Rocky was on the hunt for the Tardis (of Dr. Who fame) in Glasgow.
©Jean Janssen

Rocky starting spotting a “Tartis”(aka a blue police box) right away and then we were on a mission to find as many as possible.  We were briefly along the River Clyde, before making our way through the popular shopping areas and even passing a stop for the Central Station from a different direction from where we came out.  We went down Argyle Street and along the Quay before crossing the Clyde Arc Bridge to the other side of the river and the Glasgow Science Center.

The Scottish Exposition and Conference Center, SECC, but commonly called "the armadillo" (named for its lookalike, a north american mammal, usually seen dead along Texas highways).   ©Jean Janssen

The Scottish Exposition and Conference Center, SECC, commonly called “the armadillo” (named for its lookalike, a north american mammal, usually seen dead along Texas highways).
©Jean Janssen

Crossing back over the river we came to a hotel cluster, the Hydro Entertainment Venue, and the Scottish Exposition and Conference Center, nicknamed the Armadillo.  Being from Texas and having seen many armadillo, I can tell you the SECC does look like one.

Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow, Scotland ©Jean Janssen

Kelvingrove Park, Glasgow, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

Glasgow University ©Jean Janssen

Glasgow University
©Jean Janssen

We were now on the west side of Glasgow, passing many upscale residential neighborhoods.  We drove by Kelvingrove Park, where we saw a children’s theater production in progress at an outdoor theater; Glasgow University, where the students are on summer recess; and the Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum, one of the most beautiful buildings I saw in Glasgow.  We passed churches that been converted into bars and the beautiful botanical gardens…and a few more tardis.

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum ©Jean Janssen

Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum
©Jean Janssen

Glasgow shoppers ©Jean Janssen

Glasgow shoppers
©Jean Janssen

There are actually 28 stops on the Glasgow Hop-on/Hop-off bus, more than enough to keep you busy for the day.  Although the weather looked threatening and more than once we had to put our jackets on and hoods up to keep warm, it never rained on us.  We got off at George Square and retraced our steps to the Central Station.  There are more beautiful buildings in this area and pedestrian streets filled with shoppers.  I found a store from a British accessories line I like and spent a little time inside buying gifts.  We also stopped at a Subway to get a drink and use the toilet so we could avoid having to pay to pee.

Pay toilets on the sidewalk in downtown Glasgow ©Jean Janssen

Pay toilets on the sidewalk in downtown Glasgow
©Jean Janssen

Glasgow, Scotland ©Jean Janssen

Glasgow, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

Greenock Scotland, a passenger port for Glasgow ©Jean Janssen

Greenock Scotland, a passenger port for Glasgow
©Jean Janssen

We took the train back to Greenock, noting that with the change in tide, the water was even lower.  We got off at Greenock Central and walked back to the Ocean Terminal a slightly different way so I could take a few photographs of local buildings and a fountain I liked.  We had fun on this thrown together day.

Greenock, Scotland ©Jean Janssen

Greenock, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

Greenock, Scotland ©Jean Janssen

Greenock, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

 

What the well dressed Scot is wearing these days, Greenock, Scotland ©Jean Janssen

What the well dressed Scot is wearing these days, Greenock, Scotland
©Jean Janssen

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Belfast, Northern Ireland

City Hall, Belfast, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

City Hall, Belfast, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Today we are in Belfast, Northern Ireland, and part of the British Empire.  As such, the Queen has a residence here.  We are taking a brief city tour and then going to , the Queen’s home when she is visiting Northern Ireland.  While a royal palace, it was built as a Georgian home right in the community of which it is apart.  Across the street are the village shops, behind it lovely parklands.  Although it has now been three years, the Queen has held annual garden parties here to which you can apply to be a part.

These two gigantic building cranes in the Belfast Docklands are affectionately called Sampson and Goliath.  They have protected status as national landmarks. ©Jean Janssen

These two gigantic building cranes in the Belfast Docklands are affectionately called Sampson and Goliath. They have protected status as national landmarks.  The H & W stand for Harland and Wolff, the shipbuilders who use the cranes.  H & W built the Titanic.
©Jean Janssen

We began our tour by driving through the docklands where are boat is docked.  We can see the Titanic Museum from our berth.  While close, to get there you have to actually need to got out the docklands and around again.  Difficult when you need to call a cab to get you back to the ship or figure out the public transport.  Wish the ship’s shuttle would make a stop there.  Boris has visited and said it is fantastic.  Next door is the brick building, the original headquarters for the shipbuilders, Harland and Wolff who still build in this shipyard.

The Titanic Museum, Belfast, Northern Ireland.  The metal poles in front represent the actual size of Titanic.  The ship was built in these docklands.  The perspective of this photo is from our ship, the Azamara Quest, at berth in the same docklands. ©Jean Janssen

The Titanic Museum, Belfast, Northern Ireland. The metal poles in front represent the actual size of Titanic. The ship was built in these docklands. The perspective of this photo is from our ship, the Azamara Quest, at berth in the same docklands.
©Jean Janssen

Yes, another Titanic stop on our cruise, our last.  This is the shipyard where the Titanic was built.  The medal supports outside the museum represent its actually size and the shape of the museum itself represents a ship from the unique vantage point we have from our own vessel.  They now call this area of the Docklands, the Titanic Quarter.

Parliament Buildings (Stormont), Belfast, Northern Ireland. ©Jean Janssen

Parliament Buildings (Stormont), Belfast, Northern Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

The long approach to the Parliament Buildings, Belfast, Northern Ireland. ©Jean Janssen

The long approach to the Parliament Buildings, Belfast, Northern Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

Our next stop was to see the Parliament Buildings, commonly called Stormont due to the location on the Stormont Estate east of Belfast.  Clearly they were trying to make a statement with not only the building but the approach as well. Built in 1921 and dedicated by the Prince of Wales (on behalf of George V) in November 1932, today it is the site of the legislative body of Northern Ireland (established by the Belfast Agreement or “Good Friday Agreement” of 1998).  During WWII, the building was purposely discolored with manure to make it less visible and it survived the war.  There are free tours offered twice daily each weekday.

Hillsborough Castle, the Queen's residence in Northern Ireland. ©Jean Janssen

Hillsborough Castle, the Queen’s residence in Northern Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

Our next stop was for our interior and gardens tour of Hillsborough Castle, the Queen’s residence in Northern Ireland.  Building on the Georgian style home was begun in the 1770s by Wills Hill, 2nd Earl of Hillsborough and later 1st Marquess of Downshire.  It was later sold to the British Government, renamed the Government House, and was the home of the Governor of Northern Ireland.  As a young girl, the Queen and her sister Margaret would visit her aunt and uncle at the Government House.

Literally across the street from the castle is the village of Hillsborough ©Jean Janssen

Literally across the street from the castle is the village of Hillsborough
©Jean Janssen

Unfortunately no interior photographs were permitted.  This palace was far more homey than Elizabeth’s other residence.  I enjoyed looking at all the family photographs taken on site that were on display and much enjoyed by the tourists-Natasha included.  My favorite was of a laughing Prince Andrew with his daughters.  Portions of the home were being painted in a color scheme chosen by Charles, the Prince of Wales.  Our guide wasn’t too sure about his choices.  In the entrance hall, a nice painting job had made the wooden walls look as if there were on the same stone as the exterior.

The back patio at Hillsborough Castle where the Queen holds her garden parties.  Outside Belfast, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

The back patio at Hillsborough Castle where the Queen holds her garden parties. Outside Belfast, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

After being guided through the interior, we were given maps and free time to enjoy the gardens or the village.  With only 20 minutes, we couldn’t get far so we took a look around the gardens and down to the river behind the palace.  It was lovely.  On the back patio where the Queen’s garden party is held, it looked like staged natural growth with flowers coming up between the stones.

Lady Alice's Temple on the grounds of Hillsborough Castle near Belfast, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Lady Alice’s Temple on the grounds of Hillsborough Castle near Belfast, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

My favorite perspective was looking down the path lined with tall trees at the folly, Lady Alice’s Temple, a wedding gift from the 5th Marquess of Downshire to his sister  Lady Alice Hill on her marriage to the Earl of Bective in 1867.  I would have enjoyed having a little more time here to survey the grounds and maybe even visit the village and nearby fort that was within walking distance.

The Rotunda, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

The Rotunda, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Our tour took us next into the heart of the city, passing some fabulous campus buildings, the opera house, finally dropping us off at the tourist information center across the street from the city hall.  We heard from a variety of sources about the city hall tour that we decided to take it.  We figured if the outside was that impressive…We walked in to get our free tickets and a couple was taking their wedding photographs on the stairs.  There entire entourage was gathered on the ground floor just under the impressive rotunda.

The Grand Staircase, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

The Grand Staircase, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

This piece of furniture was intended for Captain Smith on the Titanic but was not completed in time.  It is now in the Reception Hall in Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland. ©Jean Janssen

This piece of furniture was intended for Captain Smith on the Titanic but was not completed in time. It is now in the Reception Hall in Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

We climbed the beautiful main staircase and visited the robing room and assembly chambers as well as three beautiful meeting rooms that are available for public rental, each larger than the next.  In one of the rooms was an inconspicuous piece of furniture that fit right in with the ornate decor of the room.  Our guide pointed it out because it was to have been Captain Smith’s bureau on the Titanic but was not completed on time and was thus saved.  It is not a fixture in this meeting room.

Stained glass in Belfast City Hall.  Depicted are important events in Belfast's history from the granting of its original charter in 1613 to its elevation to County Borough in 1899. ©Jean Janssen

Stained glass in Belfast City Hall. Depicted are important events in Belfast’s history from the granting of its original charter in 1613 to its elevation to County Borough in 1899.
©Jean Janssen

Assembly Room, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Assembly Room, Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

The tour also highlighted some of the famous paintings and stained glass in the City Hall.  One of the windows he pointed out depicted a female volunteer and featured in the various panes the numerous charities she supported.  He pointed it out because it was unusual at the time for woman to be thus honored, but I decided since I do a lot of volunteer work I need to see how I can get myself one of those stained glass windows.  Right?

One of several Titanic memorials at Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

One of several Titanic memorials at Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

The Crown Bar aka The Crown Liquor Saloon, the most famous pub in Belfast, Northern Ireland, ©Jean Janssen

The Crown Bar aka The Crown Liquor Saloon, the most famous pub in Belfast, Northern Ireland,
©Jean Janssen

As we left the building, we passed by several memorials to the Titanic and its crew and passengers.  We appreciated the architecture  in Belfast, Rocky and I both taking lots of pictures.  We walked a couple of streets over to go the Crown Bar a/k/a Crown Liquor Saloon, the most famous pub in Belfast.  It was elevated to Victorian grandeur in 1885 and is now owned by the National Trust; the trust has done extensive renovation on the property.  On the ground floor were 10 booths (or snugs) for the bar patrons.  The bar itself and ceiling were equally fascinating.  Full downstairs, we decided to try our luck upstairs and have a beer and fish and chips, but they were not serving food up there yet.  We decided to head back to the shuttle by the city hall and hoped to catch a picture of the leaning clock our guide had pointed out earlier.

My favorite corner in Belfast (near Victoria Square).  Great place for a bar. ©Jean Janssen

My favorite corner in Belfast (near Victoria Square). Great place for a bar.
©Jean Janssen

We stopped at Victoria Square (a shopping mall), a block from the clock so I could grab the shot, the driver warning us about the last shuttle.  We were not there to shop.  I took several pictures and then we got on the next shuttle to the ship, having enjoyed our day in Belfast.  Sometimes these thrown together days with no specific agenda can be fun.

The Belfast City Crest was on the carpets of the Grand Staircase and the meeting rooms of the Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland ©Jean Janssen

The Belfast City Crest was on the carpets of the Grand Staircase and the meeting rooms of the Belfast City Hall, Northern Ireland
©Jean Janssen

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Isle of Man

Castletown, the ancient Capital of the Isle or Man.  Castle Rushen is on the right. ©Jean Janssen

Castletown, the ancient Capital of the Isle or Man. Castle Rushen is on the right.
©Jean Janssen

Today we tender into the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea between England and Ireland.  The sea terminal is at Douglas, the island’s capital.  The Isle of Man is the home to the “famous” TT (Tourist Trophy) motorcycle races in the summer.  The island offers wonderful public transportation including a steam train to the south and an electric train to the north.  Given the short time we are staying on the island, we opted for the old fashioned steam train with its small wooden passengers cars-3 people on each side facing one another.

Selections from the Isle of Man's Bentley Club were at the Sea Terminal. ©Jean Janssen

Selections from the Isle of Man’s Bentley Club were at the Sea Terminal.
©Jean Janssen

As we left the terminal, the Bentley Club had brought out their special cars-including Bentleys and Mercedes-to the dock.  Rocky and I had the same favorite.  We purchased our day passes for the local transportation system right at the cruise terminal and took the shuttle over to the train station.  The building was so picturesque.  You could eat right there or sit out on the back patio to wait for the gates to open.  It was a beautiful day.

Steam Train Station in Douglas, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Steam Train Station in Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

There is a separate station for each of the lines, so only the steam train left from this terminal.  We ended up in a car with a young Irish couple who were staying on the island for 5 days on holiday.  They had taken a branch up to the top of a mountain where a tea house now sits; they highly recommended the Snaefell Mountain Railway.  You take the electric train and connect in Laxey to reach the summit of Snaefell, the Isle’s only mountain.

Steam train at the Douglas station, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Steam train at the Douglas station, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

I sat there in my long pants, shirt, and jacket to stay warm and the young Irish woman had on a cami and shorts clearly more adapted to this weather.  They were nice to talk to.  On the other side of us sat a German couple who were also on the ship; they too were very friendly although we got the impression that the wife did not speak as much English as her husband.  With the ship in for the day, the train was completely full.

Castletown Steam Train Station, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Castletown Steam Train Station, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

DSC_1378 - Version 2Like most of the ports on this itinerary, there are local representatives on the ship to provide literature on the destinations.  On the Isle of Man, they actually had brochures on each of the island’s towns and their unique offerings from museums, beaches, castles, etc.  Due to time and interest, we chose to go to Castletown down the steam train line.  We are going to see the castle and there are even some TT races near town today.  The Irish couple got off at the same stop; the German couple were continuing on to the end of the steam engine line south.

DSC_1307The scenery in route was absolutely beautiful.  We had the wooden coach windows open to let in the fresh breeze and enjoyed the countryside and the coastal views.  We found out that some of the roads were blocked due to the motorcycle races, so that added to the number of people using the train and we made a few local stops to pick up people or drop them off.

Clouds and steam from the train against a blue Isle of Man sky. ©Jean Janssen

Clouds and steam from the train against a blue Isle of Man sky.
©Jean Janssen

Rocky was surprised by the smell of the steam created by the coal powering the train.  It wasn’t annoying, just different.  The train station at Castletown was also pretty with a park next to the opposite side of the tracks.  In the distance you could hear the motorcycles on their course.  We took a walk into town passing the street where you could reach the races.  The island airport is also located near Castletown.

Castletown, Isle of Man, viewed from the top of Castle Rushen ©Jean Janssen

Castletown, Isle of Man, viewed from the top of Castle Rushen
©Jean Janssen

The keep of Castle Rushen, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

The keep of Castle Rushen, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

As we approached the bridge into the main part of the building, I saw all the boats in the canal sitting in the mud.  A pair of swans were also nestled in the muck.  Castletown was charming.  At the Old House of Keys, the former home of the Manx Parliament, you can enjoy the reenactment of debate proceedings. The Isle of Man has “the oldest continuously active parliament in the world, the Tynwald.” The sessions are offered once late morning and mid afternoon.  The train schedule didn’t work for us to attend, but Jane and David enjoyed the morning session.  There is also a well done Nautical Museum and Old Grammar School.

Rocky at the portcullis at Castle Rushen, Isle of Man. ©Jean Janssen

Rocky at the portcullis at Castle Rushen, Isle of Man.
©Jean Janssen

Narrow passageways in Castle Rushen, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Narrow passageways in Castle Rushen, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

The 4th main attraction in the heart of the town is Castle Rushen, a fabulous medieval castle that has been maintained with only minor safety and tourist changes.  You truly got the feel of what it was like when the structure was a royal residence, mint, and prison.  You take a routed self-guided tour through the castle with some rotated exhibits, currently featuring the history of women associated with the castle.

We climbed the many narrow winding staircases, now familiar to us on this trip.  After Blarney Castle we are up for anything.  We went all the way to the top with great views on Castletown and out to the bay.

view from the steam train, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

view from the steam train, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

After our castle tour, we headed back to the train station, taking a peak at the TT races in town that day.  One race was 16 laps around on a short track; others are 90 laps.  There are grandstands in Douglas for viewing the race.  Another lovely ride back to Douglas on the train and then we took the shuttle and decided to get off at town rather than go straight to the ship.

Douglas Bay viewed from the main shopping area.  Douglas, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Douglas Bay viewed from the main shopping area. Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

Douglas, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

We wandered around the streets, spotting a wonderful standing clock.  I tried for cash out of the ATM next to the Post Office without success (making me a little nervous).  Probably was a good thing though because although I did ask for sterling which is accepted here as it is a dependency of the British Crown, they do have their own currency and coins.  The isle is self-governing.

Rocky taking a break at the top of Castle Rushen, Castletown, Isle of Man.  The bell is engraved "Earl of Derby 1729" ©Jean Janssen

Rocky taking a break at the top of Castle Rushen, Castletown, Isle of Man. The bell is engraved “Earl of Derby 1729”
©Jean Janssen

After walking the length of the main shopping area, we walked back along the side overlooking the bay.  Finally, we crossed over and wandered through the promenade gardens.  We tendered back to the ship, passing the Tower of Refuge in the Bay.  One of the other things the island is noted for is the Manx Cat, almost tailless.  I didn’t see any, but that night we each got a Manx Cat pin delivered to our room.  Tomorrow we will be in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Tower of Refuge, Douglas Bay, Isle of Man ©Jean Janssen

Tower of Refuge, Douglas Bay, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

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Liverpool, England

Light streaming through the stained-glass windows of the Liverpool Cathedral. The largest Anglican Cathedral and 5th largest Cathedral in the world ©Jean Janssen

Light streaming through the stained-glass windows of the Liverpool Cathedral. The largest Anglican Cathedral and 5th largest Cathedral in the world
©Jean Janssen

Today we are back in England with a visit to Liverpool. There is a big excursion to the Liverpool Cathedral tonight, so we decided to make this our sea day and stay on board. Other than being the home of the Beatles, there wasn’t much about Liverpool that interested me. We slept in, had lunch, and went to the library to read. Just outside the library we ran into an English couple from near Stafford-on-the-Avon who we had had dinner with an earlier evening; they had just gotten back from the hop-on, hop-bus and were done for day. I highly recommend this tourist mode of transportation when offered. The buses are a great way to orient you to a city and an easy way to access various tourist sites. (Best place to take one is Barcelona.)

Liverpool is all things Beatles. Take the tour, visit the museums, and roam their old haunts ©Jean Janssen

Liverpool is all things Beatles. Take the tour, visit the museums, and roam their old haunts
©Jean Janssen

We had been in the lounge about 15 minutes when Jane came back and found us, handed us their bus passes and encouraged us to go. She told us that if we stayed on we could make the whole circuit in an hour. We looked at our watches; it was two pm. Ok, lets go for it. Thanks Jane.

The customs house was build to wow transatlantic passengers. Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England ©Jean Janssen

The customs house was build to wow transatlantic passengers. Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England
©Jean Janssen

The Royal Liver Building on the Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England Note the mythical Liver Birds on the top from whom the city draws its name ©Jean Janssen

The Royal Liver Building on the Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England Note the mythical Liver Birds on the top from which the city draws its name
©Jean Janssen

It was a short walk to the first stop not far from the sea terminal (where the passenger ferries depart from and where our cruise ship is docked). No rain today, but it is windy and cold. The morning rain had passed, so we braved the open-air upper deck of this two-level tour bus. Just across the street from our stop were the three main buildings that dominate this Mersey River Waterfront. The Royal Liver Building is classically designed and topped with the mythical Liver Birds from which the city derives its name. The middle structure is the Cunard Building built in Italian Renaissance/Greek Revival style. Prior to moving their headquarters to Southampton, the Cunard Cruise Company was headquartered here. The third building is the Customs House, the most ornate of the three, and built to impress the transatlantic cruise passengers that departed from Liverpool.

the revitalized docklands of Liverpool, England, home to the Liverpool Wheel  ©Jean Janssen

The revitalized docklands of Liverpool, England, home to the Liverpool Wheel
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool really is a maritime city.  A 7-mile brick wall, parts of which remain, at one time walled the waterfront area from the city. The cargo portion of the docks is now about 5 miles from the passenger terminals. The area near the sea terminal (passenger area) has really been revitalized with former warehouses becoming apartments and amusement venues.

the revitalized docklands of Liverpool, England, home to the Liverpool Wheel

 These old warehouses built right on the Albert Dock have been renovated into apartments, restaurants, bars, and other entertainment venues. ©Jean Janssen

 

Liverpool Headquarters of the White Star Line, owners of the Titanic ©Jean Janssen

Liverpool Headquarters of the White Star Line, owners of the Titanic
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool is our next Titanic connection port on this cruise. Although the ship never stopped here, Liverpool is the city of its registry. It was conceived and its plans finalized in the White Star office just across the street from the Mercy Waterfront. Captain Smith and most of the crew made their homes in Liverpool. There is even a dockside memorial to the Engine Room Heroes of the Titanic.

Buildings reflecting the diversity and long history of this Liverpool, England ©Jean Janssen

Buildings reflecting the diversity and long history of Liverpool, England
©Jean Janssen

Radio Tower dominating the sky in Liverpool ©Jean Janssen

Radio Tower dominating the sky in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

 

Liverpool is the third largest city in England and dates from 1207 when it received its Royal Charter. Leaving the docklands, we began our tour with a stop on Chapel Street where history buffs could exit the bus and visit the headquarters of the Western Approaches. Next was Liverpool One Shopping Complex for major shopping.  I was immediately struck by the fabulous buildings in Liverpool, too many to take pictures of. There was a great mix of architectural styles and periods representing the long successful history of this city.

Check out statutes of two of the fab four in this photo. You’ll have to make your own visit to Liverpool to see all four.  ©Jean Janssen

Check out statutes of two of the fab four in this photo. You’ll have to make your own visit to Liverpool to see all four.
©Jean Janssen

We passed Mathew Street and the original home of the Cavern Club where the Beatles played almost 300 gigs between 1961 and 1963. You can visit the Beatles Shop and the Beatles Story, a walk-through audio-visual presentation on their history. There is another Beatles Museum on the Mersey Waterfront. The Beatles weren’t the only famous group to play the Cavern Club; The Who, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, Stevie Wonder (ok, not a group) and Queen all performed there.

Roaming around Liverpool  ©Jean Janssen

Roaming around Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool, England  ©Jean Janssen

Liverpool, England
©Jean Janssen

 

Jane was right; the tour took about an hour. We went by the impressive library and St. George’s Hall, train and bus stations, shopping centers, and entertainment venues. Liverpool might be the only city to have two Cathedrals. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was completed in 1967 and is shaped like a funnel. It is renowned for its organ (4565 pipes). It may be the ugliest church I have ever seen. In contrast is the massive Anglican Cathedral, completed just over 30 years ago. Its sheer size is awe-inspiring. We will visit the interior tonight for a special evening performance.

 Liverpool’s Chinese Arch stands in high contrast to the buildings around it ©Jean Janssen

Liverpool’s Chinese Arch stands in high contrast to the buildings around it
©Jean Janssen

Albert Dock, Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool  ©Jean Janssen

Albert Dock, Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

We ended up back in the dock area, cold and wind-blown, but happy we had gone on the tour. Lots of museums to visit here-a branch of the Tate, a Maritime Museum, the Beatles Story. You can even walk down to the Albert Dock from here. We wanted to warm up and get dinner before the show so we headed back to the ship glad we had not just sat in the library.

Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool England ©Jean Janssen

Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool England
©Jean Janssen

Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool England ©Jean Janssen

Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool England
©Jean Janssen

After a grand buffet dinner and a change of clothes-too cold out to wear the original outfit planned-we took buses to the Anglican Cathedral. Rocky said the interior was breathtaking.   The light streaming in through the stained-glass windows created the most incredible effect. Azamara Club Cruises has created these unique evenings on longer cruises, always different. They design an over the top event in a unique venue. Our cruise director greeted us at the church entrance as a Beatle.  Once inside, a town crier and the captain grabbed you for a photo. That is while you were trying to pick your jaw up off the floor after catching a look at the interior.

Performances in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool for our “Azamazing Evening” ©Jean Janssen

Performances in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool for our “Azamazing Evening”
©Jean Janssen

The Liverpool Anglican Cathedral  ©Jean Janssen

The Liverpool Anglican Cathedral
©Jean Janssen

 

A quartet played chamber music as people filtered in and looked around, took photographs, and found a seat. After introduction of various Liverpool officials-the Lord Mayor, the Dean of Liverpool, Harbor Master, etc.- the captain welcomed us to the show. Two operatically trained performers sang and the organist played a full range on the impressive Cathedral organ. The accompanying light show was spectacular.

The Cavern Club Beatles, a Beatles cover band performed for us in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool ©Jean Janssen

The Cavern Club Beatles, a Beatles cover band performed for us in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

At the conclusion of the classical performance section of the show, there was a champagne reception while the stage was reset. The second half of the show was by the Cavern Club Beatles, a local cover band who even made a trip to New York in 2014 retracing the visit by the Beatles in 1964 to appear on the Ed Sullivan Show. That music in this venue stood out in marked contrast. They weren’t the best, but we enjoyed the show.

Late night fireworks along side our ship to end our “Azamazing Evening” in Liverpool ©Jean Janssen

Late night fireworks along side our ship to end our “Azamazing Evening” in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

The double-decker coach we returned to the ship on was much fancier than the one we rode over on.  We were told that it was outfitted for the local football (soccer) team.  We were riding in style.  Everyone had enjoyed the show and were excited; we were told there would be a surprise when we got back to the ship. As we walked on, we were handed a cup of hot chocolate to which rum was added (not the surprise) and went upstairs for a late night sandwich buffet. Then there was a fireworks show on the River along side the ship. Fabulous. It was a spectacular evening.

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Dublin, Ireland

Natasha and Rocky bar tending in an Irish Pub, The Abbey Tavern, Howth on Dublin Bay, Ireland.

Natasha and Rocky bar tending in an Irish Pub, The Abbey Tavern, Howth on Dublin Bay, Ireland.

The Next day found us with improved weather and docked in the Irish capital of Dublin. Dublin is a Viking city dating from 988. With Irish Independence in 1922, Dublin became the capital of the Republic of Ireland, today Ireland’s largest city. The Republic joined the European Union in 1973.

The Long Room, The Old Library, Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

The Long Room, The Old Library, Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I have an afternoon tour of the countryside scheduled, so in the morning we took the ship’s shuttle into town. Our first stop was to see the Book of Kells at Trinity College.  Dublin has three universities, but Trinity College is the oldest University in Ireland, founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592. Most of the buildings on the 40-acre urban campus date from the 18th and 19th centuries.

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland The Book of Kells, an amazing illustrated manuscript, dates from 800 AD. One of the oldest books in the world, it contains the four gospels written in Latin. “It is said to be the work of the monks at St. Columcille’s Monastery, from the island of Iona off the west coast of Scotland.” The book was sent to Dublin in 1653 “for reasons of security during the Cromwellian period” and came to Trinity College in 1661. It is truly beautiful. To see the book, you pass through a museum with detailed information regarding the origin and the specifics on the book before reaching the room where the book is held. The Book of Kells is kept on the ground floor of The Old Library on the Trinity College campus. Two volumes are on display and open for your viewing. No photographs are permitted in the museum or in the book room.

The amazing Long Room in the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin ©Jean Janssen

The amazing Long Room in the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin
©Jean Janssen

Above the museum on the upper floor is the most amazing library I have ever seen. “The Long Room” is 65 meters long and houses approximately 200,000 of the library’s oldest books. The books were originally on a single story. However, when the shelves filled, the roof was raised in 1860 to create an additional level.

The room also features marble busts down both sides from a collection started in 1743. One of the dozen copies of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic is also on display in the Long Room as is the oldest surviving harp from Ireland believed to be from the 15th century. This room awed me; it is truly breathtaking.

Dublin signpost in both Gaelic and English. Irish children study Gaelic until age 15 ©Jean Janssen

Dublin signpost in both Gaelic and English. Irish children study Gaelic until age 15
©Jean Janssen

In the realm of study, I was surprised to learn that Irish children are required to study Irish Gaelic (not to be confused with the Gaelic spoken in Scotland, which has similarities but is a different language) until the age of 15. Many signs are written in both English and Gaelic. To become either a teacher or a policeman, you must be proficient in Gaelic. For 85,000 people in Ireland, Gaelic is the primary language. Some Irish students spend a summer in special communities where Gaelic is the language spoken to hone their language skills.

Statue of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square Park, Dublin, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Statue of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square Park, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

After viewing the Old Library and walking the length of the Trinity College campus, Rocky and I did some walking around in this area of the city mindful that we need to get back to catch our tour bus. We saw the National Gallery, National Library, Natural History Museum, and the National Museum. We wandered into several of the parks as well. In Merrion Square, we walked down wonderful wooded paths, saw unique children’s play area, and found a statue of Oscar Wilde in repose.

Government Buildings, Dublin ©Jean Janssen

Government Buildings, Dublin
©Jean Janssen

The Government Buildings were quite impressive and on the backside we saw what appeared to be a set up for a news conference. As we were leaving we saw many more police officers gathering and knew something big was up.

You may recognize this bridge from movies set in Dublin. It is located in St. Stephen’s Green ©Jean Janssen

You may recognize this bridge from movies set in Dublin. It is located in St. Stephen’s Green
©Jean Janssen

Swan family on the water in St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin ©Jean Janssen

Swan family on the water in St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin
©Jean Janssen

The gem we found was St. Stephen Green, a lovely park with gazebos, fountains, footpaths, flower gardens, waterfowl, and scenic bridges. We had fun just wandering around and taking pictures here. Rain was threatened for the afternoon, but on this beautiful morning the park was full of young and old people alike. The lovely swans on the water just added to the romantic feel of the park.

An Irish Door, Dublin, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

An Irish Door, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

One of iconic symbols of Dublin is the colored door, found in almost every color on the Georgian townhouses all over town. I had fun trying to spot ones in a color I had not yet captured on film. All too soon, it was time to head back to the ship. I would have been happy to stay in town for the whole day, actually you could have left me in St. Stephen’s Green for day and it would have been blissful.

After lunch on board, we boarded our tour bus for a visit to the Irish Countryside. Passing through Dublin, Our guide mentioned some of the city’s favorite sons, pointing out Mount Temple, where Bono (of U2 fame) went to school and the Bram Stoker museum. Dracula’s (literally “bad blood” in Gaelic) author grew up a sickly child and was influenced by stories of the cholera epidemic and the potato famine.

Dublin Bay. Note the lighthouse and helipad on the lower left ©Jean Janssen

Dublin Bay. Note the lighthouse and helipad on the lower left
©Jean Janssen

We saw and learned a lot, but not what we expected. This really ended up being a tour of the Dublin suburbs around Dublin Bay.  We passed a home with a thatched roof, a dying building type in Ireland with few craftsmen who can build and repair them now. In the outlying communities, until only recently the railroad crossing signals were operated manually. When the weather cleared, we saw people out enjoying the weather playing cricket or rugby. We passed old cemeteries with the reminder that we were in Ireland with all the Celtic crosses.

Malahide Castle outside Dublin, Ireland  ©Jean Janssen

Malahide Castle outside Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

It was raining when the tour began which damped our photo stop at Malahide Castle, a fortress and home for over 800 years. Ireland claims the greatest number of castles in the British Isles, but some look more like stately home or are tower houses. Still impressive, they are simply not necessarily what one thinks of when you here the word, castle. An interior viewing was not included on our tour. We passed next through the villages of Malahide and Portmarnock, noting the two miles of sandy beaches.

Our friendly barmaid Blaithin at the Abbey Tavern in Howth Ireland gave us a turn behind the bar and posed for us next to the large bottle of Powers Irish Whiskey used when making the Irish coffees. Blaithin grew up nearby.  ©Jean Janssen

Our friendly barmaid Blaithin at the Abbey Tavern in Howth Ireland gave us a turn behind the bar and posed for us next to the large bottle of Powers Irish Whiskey used when making the Irish coffees. Blaithin grew up nearby.
©Jean Janssen

After a photo stop of Dublin Bay, we stopped at Abbey Tavern in the fishing village of Howth. The traditional pub had a fabulous bar. The drink of the day was an Irish Coffee, but since Rocky and I don’t like coffee we had our whiskey straight up. They use Powers rather than Jameson because it adds an element of spice to the coffee. Our server even let Rocky and I have our turn behind the bar. It was a quaint place and weather cold enough that a wood burning fire was going inside.

Fishing boats in the Howth marina, Dublin Bay, Ireland  ©Jean Janssen

Fishing boats in the Howth marina, Dublin Bay, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Celtic cross in the marina at Howth, Dublin Bay, Ireland  ©Jean Janssen

Celtic cross in the marina at Howth, Dublin Bay, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Our bus took us next down to the marina at Howth with colorful fishing boats and fishmongers (fresh seafood shops). Rocky and I walked along the embankment toward the lighthouse. Looking back up toward the village, you could see the ruins of the Abbey from which the Tavern took its name.

Abbey ruins at Howth, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Abbey ruins at Howth, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

This is our last port in the Republic of Ireland. I would love to come back on a land-based tour and see more of the countryside. That said, I wouldn’t mind spending some more time in the cities we visited either. A cruise-based visit is just a tease, giving you a flavor for the Island and having you leave wanting more. Ireland (land based) is back on the bucket list. Green is my favorite color.

Harp-shaped bridge in Dublin, Ireland. I was surprised to learn that the harp, not the shamrock, is the symbol of Ireland. Don’t believe me? Check out the Guinness label ©Jean Janssen

Harp-shaped bridge in Dublin, Ireland. I was surprised to learn that the harp, not the shamrock, is the symbol of Ireland. Don’t believe me? Check out the Guinness label
©Jean Janssen

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Kissing the Blarney Stone: Cobh and Cork, Ireland

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Natasha celebrated her birthday by adding another new country, Ireland, and kissing the Blarney Stone. Today we docked in Cobh on the southeastern coast of the Republic of Ireland. The weather was absolutely miserable with sheets of rain coming down and colder temperatures. We were not deterred and set out on our bus excursion to Cork and Blarney Castle.

 The train station sits right on the passenger cruise dock in Cobh, Ireland. ©Jean Janssen

The train station sits right on the passenger cruise dock in Cobh, Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

Actually transport from the cruise dock was very easy. Walk across the dock and you will find the train station for the short ride into Cork. Also right on the dock was a Titanic museum and a short walk up the hill brought you to a lovely Cathedral overlooking the Harbor.

Cobh Heritage Museum and village church, Cobh, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Cobh Heritage Museum and village church, Cobh, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Cobh (pronounced “Cove”) is the historical name for this community that sits on Great Island. It is the historic port where transatlantic visitors and immigrants left Ireland. On the dock is even a statute of the first immigrant admitted to Ellis Island in New York. She left Ireland from this dock in Cobh.

The first immigrant admitted to Ellis Island was a young girl who left from Cobh, Ireland. This statute sits on the passenger dock at Cobh. ©Jean Janssen

The first immigrant admitted to Ellis Island was a young girl who left from Cobh, Ireland. This statute sits on the passenger dock at Cobh.
©Jean Janssen

Some may be more familiar with the name this town once held, Queensland, the final stop the Titanic ever made. The British Queen visited and the inhabitants requested they be allowed to change the name to honor her visit. The request was granted and the name Queensland stayed with the community until Irish Independence in 1922 when the name Cobh was restored.

Memorial plaque to the Titanic Passengers on the Cobh passenger dock ©Jean Janssen

Memorial plaque to the Titanic Passengers on the Cobh passenger dock
©Jean Janssen

One family in First Class and a large group of steerage passengers left from this dock to board the Titanic. Queensland was the ship’s last stop before crossing the Atlantic. Captain Smith actually did not pull the ship all the way into the dock but anchored outside the harbor to save time. The passengers were tendered to the ship. Many family members and friends and curious community members were there to see the ship off. Today a small, but well-done, museum sits on the dock and a memorial wall is in place next to the dock train station.

Bowed Storefronts in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland  ©Jean Janssen

Bowed Storefronts in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Our bus headed off to a panoramic lookout near Fort George. With the weather, you could see absolutely nothing. We headed down to the picturesque village of Kinsale. Most people got off the bus and ran straight to the first teashop they saw. Rocky and I, raincoats on and umbrella in hand, braved the weather and walked around to see the village with its bowed store front windows (once again looking straight out of Harry Potter). One of my favorite buildings looked like a converted stable and was a combination Lawyers’ offices and brewery.

A winning office combination in converted stables in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

A winning office combination in converted stables in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Bridges in Cork ©Jean Janssen

Bridges in Cork
©Jean Janssen

Roaming around Cork, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Roaming around Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Looking like drowned rats we boarded the bus headed back to Cork. The city dates its start from a 7th century monastery. Cork is built on an island and has 27 bridges. Up until the 1740s, many of streets were waterways. It is sometimes called the Venice of Ireland. It is a major shipping city where dockworkers could paralyze the economy with a strike; all that changed with the introduction of the roll off shipping containers. It remains a city of major distilleries with primary industries in butter, beef, and beer. To encourage investment, the government made a significant drop in the corporate tax.

 

 

Musician performing the Titanic theme made use of four different flutes (also called pipes or whistles). ©Jean Janssen

Musician performing the Titanic theme made use of four different flutes (also called pipes or whistles).
©Jean Janssen

Our lunch stop was also in Cork. We were treated to a traditional beef stew-the meat was very tender-and a drink of our choice. Included in the offerings was a Murphy, the traditional beer of this area (Guinness is associated with Dublin). Natasha, who is not a beer drinker, enjoyed a few sips before passing it on to Rocky who enjoyed two pints.

 Young Riverdancers entertained us during lunch. ©Jean Janssen

Young Riverdancers entertained us during lunch.
©Jean Janssen

Women entertained us with Irish Dance (think Riverdance) and a local band, The Weavers, entertained with Irish folk music. They worked very hard to include the crowd who were wet and hadn’t have enough pints to really get into it. Yes, it was still raining; the entrance to the party room as flooded and we ended up walking through another dining room to get to lunch.

 

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

After lunch it was time for the tour highlight, a visit to Blarney Castle and the chance to kiss the famous Blarney Stone. We had given up on the idea of the stone until our lunchtime tablemates convinced us it was an opportunity not to be missed. We arrived at the carpark next to a shopping area in the village of Blarney, very charming. The grounds surrounding the castle are very pretty with wooden bridges covering the steams and lovely flowers that appeared just to be growing wild on the grounds.

Part of the interior of Blarney Castle as seen from the kissing line ©Jean Janssen

Part of the interior of Blarney Castle as seen from the kissing line
©Jean Janssen

This castle was a tower house, and a tall one at that. It is in ruins. The Blarney Stone is at the very top. To kiss the stone you have to climb a long winding staircase, parts of which are uncovered. Standing in this line (which can be up to two hours) is the only way to see the inside of the castle. Already wet and celebrating my birthday, I convinced Rocky that we should go for it. I should tell you that in addition to the wait and the climb, to reach the stone you have to lay on your back, grab two metal poles, and lean down putting your head back. Yep!

 Natasha at the top of Blarney Castle just after kissing the stone. Yep, Still raining, but I am looking pretty snug after my success. ©Jean Janssen

Natasha at the top of Blarney Castle just after kissing the stone. Yep, Still raining, but I am looking pretty snug after my success.
©Theodore Crane

It wasn’t pretty, but I did it. No one knows exactly where the tradition of kissing the stone comes from, but you kissing it and making a wish is said to give you the Gift of Eloquence.   There are plenty of people that wish I had less to say than more. Perhaps the kiss will make me more succinct.

Blarney House also sits on the grounds; it is open for visitors 10-2 on weekdays ©Jean Janssen

Blarney House also sits on the grounds; it is open for visitors 10-2 on weekdays
©Jean Janssen

The castle was a strategic stronghold long sought after by Queen Elizabeth I whose representatives were charmed on their visits, but never seemed to be able to come home with “the deed to the castle”. In her frustration, the Queen is said to have referred to it as “just a bunch of blarney stones”. Perhaps the origin of the tradition?

Footbridge on the grounds of Blarney Castle. Cork, Ireland ©Jean Janssen

Footbridge on the grounds of Blarney Castle. Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

We made a brief stop in the Mill store where I bought a few Irish linens and Rocky found a newsboy hat he liked. Finally there was the bus ride back to the ship. After the tour, we returned to the room to find they had decorated it for my birthday and even left me a special pillow. It was a complete surprise. I completed the day with a bottle of champagne. Not a bad birthday!

 My cabin stewards on the Azamara Quest decorated our cabin for my birthday. ©Jean Janssen

My cabin stewards on the Azamara Quest decorated our cabin for my birthday.
©Jean Janssen

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Natasha goes on Holiday: Guernsey, Channel Islands

©Jean Janssen

©Jean Janssen

Lighthouse off St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands with our ship the Azamara Quest in the background. @Jean Janssen

Lighthouse off St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands with our ship the Azamara Quest in the background.
@Jean Janssen

Rocky and I are off on an adventure to celebrate his college graduation. Anticipating nice cool weather, we are cruising the British Isles with stops in the Channel Islands, Ireland, Isle of Man, Liverpool, Belfast, and the Isle of Skye and other ports in Scotland. We leave from Southampton and end in Edinburgh.

We are flying on a United Dreamliner. Uber to the airport and check-in was great. This newer plane with a premium seats-lots of legroom-was great. The windows were the neatest part. There were no shades; they just change color depending on the light. With travel during an American holiday, the plane was not full and Rocky got a row to himself.

Rocky and I are cruising in celebration of his college graduation. Our first stop is in the Channel Islands between England and France. ©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I are cruising in celebration of his college graduation. Our first stop is in the Channel Islands between England and France.
©Jean Janssen

The efficiency ended on landing. There were really long lines at immigration at Heathrow. We got our luggage and headed out only to find out that we had a 35-minute wait for the bus. Rocky fell asleep on my shoulder. Then where was another 45 minutes to circle the airport and collect passengers that had come into other terminals. The drive to Southampton took over an hour and a half. I will give Azamara credit for a quick check-in process although security was painstakingly slow. I have never seen such aged security workers in my life. We finally got our welcome champagne 5 ½ hours after we landed in England. We dropped our carry-on bags and headed up to fortify ourselves at the buffet.

DSC_0537Rocky and I were lucky. We booked late at a heavy discount on a “guarantee”. You paid the lowest price offered for the cruise and were guaranteed a room, but not a particular one. We could have ended up in an inside cabin, but we scored an ocean-view room a floor up from the lowest level near the center of the ship. We have a full itinerary this cruise with new ports everyday until 4 days at the end in Edinburgh. It’s a golf itinerary and some of the passengers will attend the British Open at the end of the cruise. We have a couple of “Titanic” stops on this cruise. Titanic’s initial departure on its maiden voyage was from Southampton.  DSC_0526DSC_0556Our first stop is the island of Guernsey, in the Chanel Islands. This is a tender port for us; we are anchored just off the coast of the capital, St. Peter’s Port which “has been an active harbor since Roman Times.” The island is roughly in the middle of the channel, 13 miles from France and 18 miles from England. Dominion has gone back and forth between the two countries, but it is currently part of the British Empire. They do have some autonomy. They have their own currency, although British Sterling is accepted. There are a few places where it looks like they are just trying to be different-mail boxes that look the same as those found in London except these are blue instead of red.

DSC_0528Our guide for the town and castle tour was actually Scottish, but she loves living here with her English husband, a dairy farmer. We passed a large marina with one side for guests and the other for locals. On Sundays most everything is closed, but once a month there is an outdoor market and the vendors were starting to set up for “Seafront Sunday”.

DSC_0560DSC_0532We passed first the statue of Prince Albert and the lovely local church with the most beautiful flower baskets hanging from its fence. The morning was cloudy, but comfortable. The seaside quay has been doubled in size, but flooding still occasionally occurs. As we walked up to high street through a medieval passageway, our guide pointed out a medal hook in the cobblestones that was used to pull the goods from the ship up to high street. There was also a tunnel where the ill-fated cattle were lead up from the cargo holds to the town.

DSC_0534As we walked along high street, Rocky and I noticed a building at a Y intersection. We both had the same thought; it looks like Gringotts Bank from Harry Potter. Maybe a familiar design if you are from this part of the world, but for us a real treat. There were also lots of medieval markings on the buildings for tradesmen, et

DSC_0548DSC_0552There was a collection of interesting building surrounding the town square off the side entrance to the church. The gallows were erected in this area and in front of one of the buildings was a platform where a cage was placed; women accused of adultery were put inside.   On the top of this building was a communications tower, cleverly concealed as a tobacco leaf in reference to the substantial tobacco trade that told place out of Guernsey.

Some of towers of Castle Cornet, Guernsey, Channel Islands ©Jean Janssen

Some of towers of Castle Cornet, Guernsey, Channel Islands
©Jean Janssen

The last stop on our tour was Castle Cornet with origin in the 13th century. To reach the castle, it is a short walk along the castle emplacement built during the time of Victor Hugo’s residency on the island. The walk continues past the castle out to lighthouse. Turn back and look up the hill and you will see Victor Hugo’s home, Hauteville House, now a museum open to visitors.

DSC_0590

The castle highlights the additions over various centuries with Elizabeth I’s crest above one entrance and Elizabeth II’s over another. The additions in unadorned concrete were made at the time of the German occupation. Graffiti swastikas can be found in some areas of the castle and the odd addition of the names of German women can be found at the entrances to tunnel entrances built by the Nazis. One of the German additions is of some current use; the harbormaster was calling a sailboat race from one of the gun towers during our visit.

DSC_0663The castle is now a tourist attraction with 5 museums reflecting the varied interests of visitors included with the admission price. At noon each day one of castle cannons is fired. It was fired two additional times this year, on Queen Elizabeth’s birthday and on the day of Princess Charlotte’s birth. The ticket price also includes costumed reenactments and period dancing in an upper chamber adorned with portraits of former English Monarchs.

DSC_0597Rows of solders ready to fire lined on a multiple steps moving into position after a row fired and ready to reload before it was their turn again. From the castle you also had a view of the ruins of Fort George that has yet to be restored, although there is some private homes that have been built in the area with a view to Havelet Bay and the castle.

St. Peter’s Port Church. Guernsey, Channel Islands, ©Jean Janssen

St. Peter’s Port Church. Guernsey, Channel Islands,
©Jean Janssen

After our tour concluded, we walked back into town to catch the return tender to the ship. The skies had cleared and it had become a beautiful sunny day. Traffic at the Sunday market had definitely picked up and it appeared that day-trippers had also arrived by ferry. Guernsey is definitely a place I would like to return and spend several days.

St. Peter’s Port Church. Note the beautiful stain glass and the parishioners enjoying refreshments after services right in the church @Jean Janssen

St. Peter’s Port Church. Note the beautiful stain glass and the parishioners enjoying refreshments after services right in the church
@Jean Janssen

We found that services had concluded in the church so we were able to go inside. It is a gorgeous church and we were welcomed by a parishioner who invited us to have coffee. I saw what she meant. There was obviously no church hall, so their Sunday buffet was set up right inside the church and the parishioners were enjoying food and drinks. I opted just to look around and take pictures. The benches had wonderful needlepoint seat cushions and there were also footstool with beautiful and varied needlework designs. Charming.

Bench and footstools, 177, St. Peter’s Port Church, Guernsey ©Jean Janssen

Bench and footstools, St. Peter’s Port Church, Guernsey
©Jean Janssen

"Jesus walks on water" stained glass   A perfect stained glass depiction for this seaside church in St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey. ©Jean Janssen

“Jesus walks on water” stained glass   A perfect stained glass depiction for this seaside church in St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey.
©Jean Janssen

I had been impressed with the beautiful flower baskets outside, but the fabulous stained glass is what impressed me most. One window depicted Jesus as a fisherman, so appropriate for this seaside church. After that visit we took a tender back to ship for some naptime; Rocky and I are still a bit jetlagged. Tomorrow we add another new country; it will be my first visit to Ireland.

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Near Grand Rapids-Rockford, Muskegon, and Lake Michigan

Along the Rouge River in Rockford Michigan.  Wish I had my kayak so I could join them. ©Jean Janssen

Along the Grand River in Rockford Michigan. Wish I had my kayak so I could join them.
©Jean Janssen

Rockford Michigan

Rockford Michigan

I generally don’t go too far while visiting here in Grand Rapids, Michigan, but we did venture out a few days.  One evening we drove to Rockford, Michigan about a half hour from central GR.  The town is charming with wonderful little shops and eateries.  Piped-in music charms you as you stroll along the streets.

I came here as a child to tour the Hushpuppy factory that has now been dismantled.  I remember the tour as a fun and interesting experience, but with the work outsourced to China the shoe factory is no more and only a partial wall from the factory and an outlet store remain.  It is not all bad news.  The Grand River, the longest river in the state of Michigan-it also runs through Grand Rapids- which runs along the former factory site is much cleaner now and the town no longer smells like a tannery.

Rouge River Blues Summer Concert Series, Rockford, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Rouge River Blues Series, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

We are here for the evening to share an outdoor concert with my cousins Jim and Kris at the city park-Garden Park Stage- along the Grand River.  This iconic summertime event (a similar event is held in my home city of West University Place in June-just too hot in July) is held weekly and lasts through August in Rockford.  The concert is free and features local bands.  Just pull up a chair or a kayak and enjoy the concert.

Rockford, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

The river and dam is on one side and the bike path (that goes all the way from GR to Cadillac, MI) on the other side of the small park.  Cross the bike path and visit one of the many takeout eateries (or sit-in on their riverside porch) if you haven’t brought your own goodies from home.  Our selection-“Rockford dogs” from Dam Dogs (very good, but I had never had a hot dog where they chopped the pickles into small pieces that completely covered the top of the bun) before the music started and cones from the next door creamery during the break.  You can visit with your group, wander around and talk to friends, dance to the music, or meet the town commissioner dressed as a blues brother as he mingles with the crowd.

Troop from Shore to Shore Council selling girl scout cookies at the summer concert series, Rockford, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Troop 4305 from the Michigan Shore to Shore Council selling girl scout cookies at Rockford’s  summer concert series, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

This is quintessential American summer stuff with hot dogs, ice cream, bicycles, and even girl scouts selling cookies.

Park at the Dam, Rockford, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Park at the Dam, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

The setting features twin dams in the Grand River and a lovely new park where I saw a couple having their engagement pictures taken.  Many of the concert goers choose to enjoy the music from the water sitting in a kayak they have brought from home or rented on the ramp just behind the stage.

It had been a warm day, but we had an excellent spot under a tree.  At concert close, it was just starting to get a little cool, but you still didn’t need a jacket.  A small temporary carnival was set up a couple of blocks down which made the parking a little tougher, but otherwise it was a perfect evening.  We stayed through the entire concert; it is still hard for me to realize that it doesn’t even get dark here until 10 pm.

Mom getting ready for water viewing of the next concert.  I suggested getting the water hose to create spray to give her the real experience, but no one took me up on that.  I don't even have to create these kodak moments; this was mom's idea. ©Jean Janssen

Mom getting ready for water viewing of the next concert. I suggested getting the water hose to create spray to give her the real experience, but no one took me up on that. I don’t even have to create these kodak moments; this was mom’s idea.
©Jean Janssen

The concert may be over, but I don't think this visitors had any intention of moving. ©Jean Janssen

The concert may be over, but I don’t think these visitors had any intention of moving.
©Jean Janssen

We drove back to Jim and Kris’ house and mom wanted to try out one of their kayaks so we could join the concert goers on the water next time.  I didn’t bother to point out that it would help if she knew how to swim before she ventured into the middle of the river to watch the concert.

Hard to beat an outdoor concert in the summer, whether you are watching it from dry land or from the water.

Kris is the expert on booking camping locations.  She and Jim will spend about half their summer weekends and several weeks camping out across the state.  One of their favorite places is Hoffmaster State Park near Muskegon and about 45 minutes from central GR.  My uncle has a park pass and often goes there just to read in the wonderful setting.  He suggested we make a day of it.  Although we got a later start that expected (we were all up late last night watching the NBA playoffs), before heading to the park we drove to Muskegon to check out a favorite bar-b-que spot of my Uncle’s.

Hwy 131 Bar-b-que, Muskegon, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

US 31 Bar-B-Que, a family business in Muskegon, Michigan for the past 52 years 
©Jean Janssen

US 31 Bar-B-Que has been at the same location for 52 years and 5 generations of the same family have worked there.  When I read the restaurant’s history-on a sheet of paper placed under the glass on our table top along with family pictures-I asked our server if she was part of the family.  Turns out her grandfather was the founder, her brother was cooking the meat that day, and her mom was behind the counter filling orders.

Loved the food at this established Muskegon bar-b-hue spot still owned by the same family.  My mom and uncle play "Vana" ©Jean Janssen

Loved the food at this established Muskegon bar-b-hue spot still owned by the same family. My mom and uncle play “Vana”
©Jean Janssen

You could get a pork, beef, and/or ham sandwich.  Our server said the pork and ham combo was her favorite.  She said the beef was particularly good that day, so I tried that knowing my uncle was getting the pork and I could try a bite.  No this is not Texas Bar-b-gue.  The sauce, a secret family relish, was completely different and fabulous.  The server put it on side for me since I had tried it before, but I ended up scooping it all on.  The beef was wonderful; the pork was even better.  I had mine with fries, but you could also get chips or a cup of soup.  If you still had room, there was a great pie selection or try one of the several varies of baklava that they serve.  My original was great.  The food is absolutely worth a drive over to Muskegon.

Although the bar-b-que joint has been there since 1939, just a year ago that got to the idea to put up a map so visitor could make where they were from.  The room was full on locals on our visit, but obviously people come from all over to try these sandwiches. ©Jean Janssen

Although the bar-b-que joint has been there since 1939, just a year ago that got to the idea to put up a map so visitor could make where they were from. The room was full on locals on our visit, but obviously people come from all over to try these sandwiches.
©Jean Janssen

The family was very nice and invited me to place a sticker on their map showing where I was from.  They also agreed to a picture  US 31 Bar-B-Que is small; there are only a few booths and counter seats.  Be prepared to wait during prime times.  Large groups would find dine in difficult- try ordering to go).

St. Jean Bastiste in Muskegon, Michigan founded by French immigrants in 1883.  Due to changing neighborhoods and a lagging city economy, the church, which now only has a Spanish language mass on Sunday, may have to close its doors.  If so, the Spanish mass will move to nearby St. Mary's founded in 1889. ©Jean Janssen

St. Jean Bastiste Catholic Church in Muskegon, Michigan founded by French immigrants in 1883. Due to changing neighborhoods and a lagging city economy, the church, which now only has a Spanish language mass on Sunday, may have to close its doors. If so, the Spanish mass will move to nearby St. Mary’s founded in 1889.
©Jean Janssen

The beautiful doors of St. Mary's in downtown Muskegon, Michigan, founded in 1889. ©Jean Janssen

The beautiful doors of St. Mary’s in downtown Muskegon, Michigan, founded in 1889.
©Jean Janssen

As much as I loved US 31 Bar-B-Que, Muskegon doesn’t have a lot to recommend it as a city.  It appeared a dying town, with lots of for sale signs on homes and businesses alike.  Muskegon is the largest city of the eastern shore line of Lake Michigan, built on the fur and lumber trade (a few of the lumber barons’ mansions still line the main street). They work at attracting tourism to a town where the factories have pulled out and people are out of work. To that end, there is a submarine museum, Michigan’s largest amusement and water park, and several beaches.

Nearby was our ultimate destination, P J. Hoffmaster State Park with 3 miles of shoreline, dune overlooks, almost 300 modern campsites, gorgeous beaches, and swimming.  There is also hiking, cross country skiing in winter,a visitor center modern bathroom facilities,  and changing rooms.  There are no life guard for the swimming, but a flag indicates the safety rating of the water for swimming.  There are even complimentary life jackets for your use.

Beach walkers and sea gulls enjoying the shore of Lake Michigan at Hoffmaster State Park, near Muskegon, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Beach walkers and sea gulls enjoying the shore of Lake Michigan at Hoffmaster State Park, near Muskegon, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

My uncle drove to his favorite spot with picnic tables along side the forest and parking lot, changing rooms, and most importantly beach access.  He was content to sit in a lawn chair under the trees after showing me the beach.  Mom sat up at the top of lookout, not wanting to venture into the sand.  I found the beach wonderful.  There was a cooling breeze, but not so much as to make it cold or to kick up too much sand.  The sand was beautiful, clean, and deep.  There were people soaking up the sun and families enjoying play time on the beach.  In spite of the red flag recommending no swimming, there were children playing in the water.  I did dip my feet into the water; it was extremely cold.

Natasha goes to Lake Michigan, Hoffmaster State Park, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Natasha goes to Lake Michigan, Hoffmaster State Park, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

The beach was a great place to relax.  Even when I wasn’t looking at the gorgeous view of the water, I could still hear the sound of the waves as I flipped through my magazines. I sat for hours until my lack of sunscreen drove me back to the car.  I could have made a complete day of it.

Got to love name of this place near Hoffmaster State Park in Michigan. Had a great pineapple malt. ©Jean Janssen

Got to love name of this place near Hoffmaster State Park in Michigan. Had a great pineapple malt.
©Jean Janssen

Mom loved the Weather Rock at Whippi Dip. ©Jean Janssen

Mom loved the Weather Rock at Whippi Dip.
©Jean Janssen

Headed out of the park, we stopped at Whippi Dip for ice cream.  I just had to-what a great name!  It is even listed in 365 Things to Do in Western Michigan. If you had forgotten your picnic supplies, you could eat a full meal here and even get beach supplies.  My mom loved the weather rock out by the picnic area with playground equipment.  We hung around until after the evening traffic and then headed back to Grand Rapids.

Natasha is not so great with selfies.   A little harder with a 35mm.  My arm is just not long enough. ©Jean Janssen

Natasha is not so great with selfies. A little harder with a 35mm. My arm is just not long enough.
©Jean Janssen

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Wandering around town in Grand Rapids Michigan

I only wish this way my ride around town.   ©Jean Janssen

I only wish this was my ride around town.
©Jean Janssen

St. Andrews Cathedral, downtown GR. ©Jean Janssen

St. Andrews Cathedral, downtown GR.  Cathedral Square was the site of race riots in the 1960s.
©Jean Janssen

Ah beautiful!  Grand Rapids is named for the ripples that run on the Grand River in this western Michigan city, the second largest in the state and the hometown of former US President Gerald R. Ford.  Formerly the custom furniture capital of the United States and sometimes called the city of steeples for the large number of churches, it is now the craft beer capital of the US (with the largest number of craft beers produced) and the medical hub of western Michigan.  I have come here since I was a child and seen so many changes, but I look at it through new eyes now that my mom has decided to return and live here.  Most of my mom’s side of the family still live here, so every visit feels like I am coming home.

Kyle O'Hearn pitching in Riverside Park.  Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Kyle O’Hearn pitching in Riverside Park. Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

One of my first nights here I visited Riverside Park on Monroe, across from the Veterans home and set along the Grand River.  At bit of controversy surrounds the park now as some want to put in competition rapids for kayaks and terrace the park to avoid flooding.  There is currently a wonderful walking trail along the river; the roadways have been reconfigured to add spectacular bike lanes.  There are a couple of roundabouts, something seldom seen in the US.  I have been here before for soccer games.  Today I got to see my cousin Kyle play baseball.  He played third and also pitched for his team.  With two outs in the last inning, his team rallied from behind 2-11 to come within one run of a tie.  Perfect weather and an exciting finish.  The boys were so excited you would have thought they had won.

Downtown Library in GR. ©Jean Janssen

Mom and Rocky at the Downtown Library in GR.
©Jean Janssen

From beautiful victorian homes to cultural events, there is so much to offer.  After living in Houston, I appreciate that there are the amenities of the big city without near the drive time I experience at home.

Art Prize submission from the first year now on permanent display in the duck pond in John Ball Park. ©Theodore Care

Art Prize submission from the first year now on permanent display in the duck pond in John Ball Park.
©Theodore Care

The Art Prize competition, set for 2 1/2 weeks in September and October, gives out the most prize money ($720,000 grants and awards in 2015) among similar competitions in the United States.  Art installations are all over town with the highest concentration in Downtown.  One of the prizes is voted on by the visitors and the other by professional judges.  The economic impact on the city is more than 22 million dollars.  The competition draws visitors from almost 50 countries; visitors total 400,000 with more than 30,000 visitors coming from outside the state.

Stocking and 4th Street in Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Stocking and 4th Street in Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

This year I was in town for the 46th Festival of Arts, the first weekend of June and one of the longest running festivals in the state.  Friday was overcast, Saturday perfect, and Sunday saw threatening skies and 20-mile-an-hour winds, but there were strong crowds each day.  The free event in Downtown with music, performances, children’s activities, and a wide variety of foods has been part of the lives of Grand Rapids residents for generations.

Mom's grade school, St. Isidore's on Diamond in NE Grand Rapids. ©Jean Janssen

Mom’s grade school, St. Isidore’s on Diamond in NE Grand Rapids.
©Jean Janssen

Up close and personal with the tigers at the John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Up close and personal with the tigers at the John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

When we arrived, mom took Rocky on a “legacy tour” of some of the places she frequented as a child. I always enjoy when she tells Rocky stories, because I often learn things too.  Many of the stops were places I went as child; they are smaller than I remember.  Especially my grandmother’s home which had a basement, something we don’t have in a Texas home due to the soil.  I always loved the zoo at John Ball Park and it has recently added a wonderful tiger exhibit.  I really had to search hard to find the original pathways and enclosures.  Things were very different.  Go for the short, but memorable camel rides, the penguins (I recognized that building), frogs (another familiar and almost missed building), bald eagles, bears, tigers, and wallaby.

Camel rides at John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Camel rides at John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

Van Andel Institute, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Van Andel Institute, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Like many American cities in my mom’s generation,Grand Rapids had people of many ethnic groups who populated distinct areas of the city.  All you have to do is look through the roster of Catholic Churches in GR and you will find the churches founded by these various groups.  That said, I was always told growing up that GR was primarily Dutch Christian Reformed or Polish Catholic city.  Dutch names are found on many of the buildings along GR’s Medical Mile, sports and arts venues, Grocery store chains (Meijer) and even bakeries (Van’s Pastry Shoppe).

Marker at the intersection  of Diamond Ave and Michigan in Grand Rapids acknowledging the Polish heritage in this NE section of GR. ©Jean Janssen

Marker at the intersection of Diamond Ave and Michigan in Grand Rapids acknowledging the Polish heritage in this NE section of GR.
©Jean Janssen

You’ll also find various markers acknowledging the city’s Polish heritage.  A few doors down from my grandmother’s home is a marker for a Polish immigrant and American Revolutionary War military hero, General Casimir Pulaski.  This heritage is also celebrated during Pulaski Days the first full weekend in October.  A drink fest and organized opportunity to get some really good Polish food; the event will be held at 15 participating clubs in 2015 and I promise you my cousins will be there.

Marker at the Diamond Ave Hall in honor of Polish American Military hero, Casimir Pulaski. ©Jean Janssen

Marker at the Diamond Ave Hall in honor of Polish American Military hero, Casimir Pulaski.
©Jean Janssen

Each summer I am in Grand Rapids, I take advantage of the wonderful produce that is grown here and visit the farmers markets.  My favorite is the Fulton Market (near Fuller and Fulton) open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday 8am-3pm, but get there early for the best selection. This year I am a little early for some of the family’s favorites (like yellow beans) and we also got stock from Boris’s plantings, so I decided to venture to the Downtown Market.

My cousin Deb (in orange) helped me pick out some beautiful succulent arrangements at the Downtown Market in GR. ©Jean Janssen

My cousin Deb (in orange) helped me pick out some beautiful succulent arrangements at the Downtown Market in GR.
©Jean Janssen

Spices in the Downtown Market (inside) in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Spices in the Downtown Market (inside) in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

The Downtown Market features indoor permanent stores and an outside covered market.  You get 90 minutes of free parking with a charge after that.  The outside area featured local vendor products with plants being the favorite.  I found some wonderful succulents artfully displayed.  Only wish I could get these home, but mom got some wonderful gifts.  Inside, I made a stop for caramel popcorn, a favorite of my uncle’s.  It got some wonderful spices;  I bought the small jars which can be refilled at a discount price on future visits.  Perhaps my favorite is the Black Truffle Salt.  There was also a wonderful seafood market and at another stall I got some very tasty pear jam.

Cupcakes and Frosting Shots (!) at the Downtown Market, Grand Rapids, Michigan.   ©Jean Janssen

Cupcakes and Frosting Shots (!) at the Downtown Market, Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

And there is so much more to see in this city….

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Eating my way through Grand Rapids Michigan-Bakeries, Meat Markets, and Sit-down Restaurants

A view of Reed's Lake from Rose's.  Fabulous setting and wonderful food with a nod to the nostalgia with caramel popcorn at the end. I have already been twice on this visit. ©Jean Janssen

A view of Reed’s Lake from Rose’s. Fabulous setting and wonderful food with a nod to the nostalgia with caramel popcorn at the end. I have already been twice on this visit. East Grand Rapids, Michgan
©Jean Janssen

I have been coming to Grand Rapids Michigan in the summer for as long as I remember. I leave the extreme heat and humidity behind for longer days, cooler evenings and mornings and a chance to actually enjoy the outdoors in summertime.  Mostly, I am visiting family. My uncle preserved our grandmother’s home, so I still stay in the same house I visited as a child. It is in the NE part of the city, not far from downtown and the growing medical complex that serves most of Western Michigan.

Van’s Pastry Shoppe, East Fulton, Grand Rapids, Michigan. Started in the 1920s, they have been at their present location since 1941.

A little window shopping at Van's Pastry Shoppe, Fulton Street, Grand Rapids, Michigan. @Jean Janssen

Mom doing a little window shopping at Van’s Pastry Shoppe, Fulton Street, Grand Rapids, Michigan.
@Jean Janssen

What am I doing when I am not visiting? I am eating. Don’t get me wrong, Houston has fabulous food, but here I can have all the kielbasa (Polish sausage) my heart desires. My “achilles heel” is the bread. There are so many wonderful bakeries and farmers’ market bread booths here that at some point I just give up trying not to eat it. The traditional standout is Van’s Pastry Shoppe on Fulton. This Dutch bakery still has their regulars sitting at the tables enjoying their coffee each morning. The décor is “eclectic cookie jar” (and they have 400 in their collection).  The bakery has been around since the 1920s and at their present location since 1941.  My mom went there as a child.   Emma loves the cherry turnovers so much she orders 3 dozen to take home with her each visit and has even had them shipped to Texas. Try the windmill cookies. My mom and uncle favor the lunch sticks and I love raisins so I go for the fat boys. For National Donut Day in June they give the donuts out for free.

Happy National Donut Day, June 5.  Van's donuts, GR, Michigan

Happy National Donut Day, June 5. Van’s donuts, GR, Michigan

The bread standout for me is Nantucket Bakery with wonderful cranberry walnut and sourdough bread. My mom loves the rye and multi-grain bread. It is on Lyon Street and just around the corner (in the spot that last year also included the bakery) from their pizza take-out on Union. The pizza parlor is fabulous and open late. The bakery supplies to restaurants all over town and is worth the drive over even if you are not on the NE side of town.

Lewandowski's Market on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Lewandowski’s Market on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

On the steps of St. Adalbert's Aid Society-the parking lot is the site of Kielbasa Idol

On the steps of St. Adalbert’s Aid Society-the parking lot is the site of Kielbasa Idol

Did I mention the sausage? We arrived just in time for Kielbasa Idol held the first Saturday in June in the St. Adalbert’s Hall parking lot. For $5, you gain admission and the chance to try kielbasa from anywhere from 9 to 16 meat markets and vote for your favorite. For the past three years the winner has been Sobie’s Meat Market.   Mom and I took a drive over to Sobie’s last year and stocked up. But my absolute favorite is Lewandoski’s Market on Walker. The sausage there is wonderful, but the bacon is to die for. Best bacon I have ever eaten! You can also get fresh pierogies while you are there. Couple of years ago I bought Rocky a market tee shirt and he advertises for Lewandoski’s in Texas.

Westsider Cafe on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan

Westsider Cafe on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan

On our first visit to Lewandoski’s this year, we also tried the Polish food at the neighborhood eatery, Westsider Cafe, on Walker. The cafe is open for breakfast and lunch. Rocky had the ham and cheese, mom the potato pancakes, but I went for the Polish Combination Plate. All were wonderful. Portions were so big that even with us eating off each other’s plates we still had to take some home.

Brann's Kitchen 67 elephant ear dessert-cinimmon covered pastry with ice cream and whipping cream in a martini glass.  Beautiful, yummy, and only 99 cents

Brann’s Kitchen 67 elephant ear dessert-cinimmon covered pastry with ice cream and whipping cream in a martini glass. Beautiful, yummy, and only 99 cents ©Jean Janssen

My grandmother’s tiny kitchen is a challenge, but I do do some cooking in there as well as eating out.  I shop at the Meijer Food Store chain.   They are huge now, but I remember the small one at Fuller and Michigan where my grandmother did her shopping.  There are some comfort eateries in GR that we always try-Grand Coney on Michigan, Russ’s with multiple locations and the iconic dutch boy sign, Stake and Shake, Bob Evan’s.  Brann’swith multiple locations and an off-shoot concept Kitchen 67 that mom and I found next to the Meijer’s on the East Beltline-has a pretty good steak special at lunch or early evening, $6.99 for a 6 oz steak and a baked potato.  The real deal may be the elephant ear dessert for only 99 cents.  We have also been to the Twisted Rooster on the East Beltline; its “commit to the mitt” motto originating from the common association of the shape of the state with a mitten and a menu prepared from locally sourced items from Michigan.

My mom and uncle outside of Anna's House at their original (and recently renovated) Plainfield location in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

My mom and uncle outside of Anna’s House at their original (and recently renovated) Plainfield location in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

Although my sister Emma has tried Anna’s House, a comfort food eatery and the home of “Michigan’s Best Breakfast” according to multiple periodicals, this was my first visit.  They now how three locations serving only breakfast and lunch and “Saving the World from Ordinary Breakfast”.  I went to the older and recently renovated location on Plainfield.  The decorations were bright and cheerful with colorful bell jars in the windows.  I had a wonderful chicken salad, my uncle had the chili, and mom had Anna’s Gourmet Nut & Berry Salad.  Talk about cleaning my plate.  I lusted after the breakfasts I saw being served (although I am really not a breakfast person) and will try the newer East Beltline location when Emma arrives next week.

Mom at the Winchester on Wealthy in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Mom at the Winchester on Wealthy in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

Mom and I went exploring for a new place to eat in East town after mass on Sunday and found The Winchester on Wealthy.  With the look of a bar (and it is open until 2 am), this hipster place has some great food.  I had the stake and eggs with a wonderful aioli mayonnaise drizzle.  The Winchester has a great bloody mary bar for those who care to partake-I am a mimosa girl myself.  Mom commented that she was the oldest person in the place.  I was probably the second oldest.  Across the street is The Winchester Herb Garden  and a neat looking eatery with a white wash and black umbrella tables outside.  No branding, but we found out it is called Donkey, serves Mexican food, and has great margaritas-so it has been added to the list.

At server did an excellent job of managing all our plates at El Arriero on 28th Street in Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

At server did an excellent job of managing all our plates at El Arriero on 28th Street in Kentwood near Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

So what is a Texas doing having Mexican food in Michigan anyway?  Well actually I am used to Tex-Mex and this is not the same.  I do like the food at El Arriero on 28th street.  Not as spicy as Tex-Mex, but the fajita nachos are great and I enjoyed my sangria margarita.

Here's my model and dining buddy again.  This time at The Electric Cheetah on Wealthy. ©Jean Janssen

Here’s my model and dining buddy again. This time at The Electric Cheetah on Wealthy.
©Jean Janssen

As for the wandering around thing, Mom and I have done it before and discovered The Electric Cheetah also on Wealthy.  This comfort-food eatery has a fabulous brunch menu and a wide variety of craft root beers. It is worth it just to see the unique decor and art behind the bar.  I have been here on multiple visits to GR.

View of Reed's Lake beside Rose's on Lakeside in East Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

View of Reed’s Lake beside Rose’s on Lakeside in East Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

My cousin Tony survived the wake splash sitting waterside at Rose's.  Note the lower pant leg is not shown.  He recently graduated from U of M and is now a Doctor of Dental Surgery.  He heads to Boston next week to explore his speciality at Boston University.  Was here in GR the day he was born.

My cousin Tony survived the wake splash sitting waterside at Rose’s. Note the lower pant leg is not shown. He recently graduated from U of M and is now a Doctor of Dental Surgery. He heads to Boston next week to explore his speciality at Boston University. I was here in GR the day he was born.

If we keep going east on Wealthy along this street which is brick in parts, you’ll end up in East Grand Rapids.  Go through the gaslight district and run into Reed’s Lake where my mom used to go for the big pavilion with a roller skating rink inside and a few amusement type rides.  There was also a pipe organ and double-decker, steam-powered paddle boat.  Today it is home to the Grand Rapids Yacht Club and Rose’s.  Rose’s has a perfect setting with views past the marina to the lake.  On a pretty day, you can sit outside and right next to the water (and get splashed by the wake as my cousin Tony did on one of my two visits this trip to GR).  At the end of your meal, they bring your check and caramel popcorn in homage to the local popcorn vendor who sold his product at this spot along the lake back when my mom was a child.

Time to make the donuts at Van's.

Time to make the donuts at Van’s.

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