travelbynatasha

Isle of Man

Posted on July 20, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Castletown, the ancient Capital of the Isle or Man. Castle Rushen is on the right.
©Jean Janssen

Today we tender into the Isle of Man in the Irish Sea between England and Ireland. The sea terminal is at Douglas, the island’s capital. The Isle of Man is the home to the “famous” TT (Tourist Trophy) motorcycle races in the summer. The island offers wonderful public transportation including a steam train to the south and an electric train to the north. Given the short time we are staying on the island, we opted for the old fashioned steam train with its small wooden passengers cars-3 people on each side facing one another.

Selections from the Isle of Man’s Bentley Club were at the Sea Terminal.
©Jean Janssen

As we left the terminal, the Bentley Club had brought out their special cars-including Bentleys and Mercedes-to the dock. Rocky and I had the same favorite. We purchased our day passes for the local transportation system right at the cruise terminal and took the shuttle over to the train station. The building was so picturesque. You could eat right there or sit out on the back patio to wait for the gates to open. It was a beautiful day.

Steam Train Station in Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

There is a separate station for each of the lines, so only the steam train left from this terminal. We ended up in a car with a young Irish couple who were staying on the island for 5 days on holiday. They had taken a branch up to the top of a mountain where a tea house now sits; they highly recommended the Snaefell Mountain Railway. You take the electric train and connect in Laxey to reach the summit of Snaefell, the Isle’s only mountain.

Steam train at the Douglas station, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

I sat there in my long pants, shirt, and jacket to stay warm and the young Irish woman had on a cami and shorts clearly more adapted to this weather. They were nice to talk to. On the other side of us sat a German couple who were also on the ship; they too were very friendly although we got the impression that the wife did not speak as much English as her husband. With the ship in for the day, the train was completely full.

Castletown Steam Train Station, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

Like most of the ports on this itinerary, there are local representatives on the ship to provide literature on the destinations. On the Isle of Man, they actually had brochures on each of the island’s towns and their unique offerings from museums, beaches, castles, etc. Due to time and interest, we chose to go to Castletown down the steam train line. We are going to see the castle and there are even some TT races near town today. The Irish couple got off at the same stop; the German couple were continuing on to the end of the steam engine line south.

The scenery in route was absolutely beautiful. We had the wooden coach windows open to let in the fresh breeze and enjoyed the countryside and the coastal views. We found out that some of the roads were blocked due to the motorcycle races, so that added to the number of people using the train and we made a few local stops to pick up people or drop them off.

Clouds and steam from the train against a blue Isle of Man sky.
©Jean Janssen

Rocky was surprised by the smell of the steam created by the coal powering the train. It wasn’t annoying, just different. The train station at Castletown was also pretty with a park next to the opposite side of the tracks. In the distance you could hear the motorcycles on their course. We took a walk into town passing the street where you could reach the races. The island airport is also located near Castletown.

Castletown, Isle of Man, viewed from the top of Castle Rushen
©Jean Janssen

The keep of Castle Rushen, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

As we approached the bridge into the main part of the building, I saw all the boats in the canal sitting in the mud. A pair of swans were also nestled in the muck. Castletown was charming. At the Old House of Keys, the former home of the Manx Parliament, you can enjoy the reenactment of debate proceedings. The Isle of Man has “the oldest continuously active parliament in the world, the Tynwald.” The sessions are offered once late morning and mid afternoon. The train schedule didn’t work for us to attend, but Jane and David enjoyed the morning session. There is also a well done Nautical Museum and Old Grammar School.

Rocky at the portcullis at Castle Rushen, Isle of Man.
©Jean Janssen

Narrow passageways in Castle Rushen, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

The 4th main attraction in the heart of the town is Castle Rushen, a fabulous medieval castle that has been maintained with only minor safety and tourist changes. You truly got the feel of what it was like when the structure was a royal residence, mint, and prison. You take a routed self-guided tour through the castle with some rotated exhibits, currently featuring the history of women associated with the castle.

We climbed the many narrow winding staircases, now familiar to us on this trip. After Blarney Castle we are up for anything. We went all the way to the top with great views on Castletown and out to the bay.

view from the steam train, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

After our castle tour, we headed back to the train station, taking a peak at the TT races in town that day. One race was 16 laps around on a short track; others are 90 laps. There are grandstands in Douglas for viewing the race. Another lovely ride back to Douglas on the train and then we took the shuttle and decided to get off at town rather than go straight to the ship.

Douglas Bay viewed from the main shopping area. Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

Douglas, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

We wandered around the streets, spotting a wonderful standing clock. I tried for cash out of the ATM next to the Post Office without success (making me a little nervous). Probably was a good thing though because although I did ask for sterling which is accepted here as it is a dependency of the British Crown, they do have their own currency and coins. The isle is self-governing.

Rocky taking a break at the top of Castle Rushen, Castletown, Isle of Man. The bell is engraved “Earl of Derby 1729”
©Jean Janssen

After walking the length of the main shopping area, we walked back along the side overlooking the bay. Finally, we crossed over and wandered through the promenade gardens. We tendered back to the ship, passing the Tower of Refuge in the Bay. One of the other things the island is noted for is the Manx Cat, almost tailless. I didn’t see any, but that night we each got a Manx Cat pin delivered to our room. Tomorrow we will be in Belfast, Northern Ireland.

Tower of Refuge, Douglas Bay, Isle of Man
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Castle Rushen, Castletown, Douglas, Isle of Man, Isle of Man Railways, Isle of Man Steam Railway, Old House of Keys, Snaefell Mountain Railway, steam train | Leave a comment

Liverpool, England

Posted on July 18, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Light streaming through the stained-glass windows of the Liverpool Cathedral. The largest Anglican Cathedral and 5th largest Cathedral in the world
©Jean Janssen

Today we are back in England with a visit to Liverpool. There is a big excursion to the Liverpool Cathedral tonight, so we decided to make this our sea day and stay on board. Other than being the home of the Beatles, there wasn’t much about Liverpool that interested me. We slept in, had lunch, and went to the library to read. Just outside the library we ran into an English couple from near Stafford-on-the-Avon who we had had dinner with an earlier evening; they had just gotten back from the hop-on, hop-bus and were done for day. I highly recommend this tourist mode of transportation when offered. The buses are a great way to orient you to a city and an easy way to access various tourist sites. (Best place to take one is Barcelona.)

Liverpool is all things Beatles. Take the tour, visit the museums, and roam their old haunts
©Jean Janssen

We had been in the lounge about 15 minutes when Jane came back and found us, handed us their bus passes and encouraged us to go. She told us that if we stayed on we could make the whole circuit in an hour. We looked at our watches; it was two pm. Ok, lets go for it. Thanks Jane.

The customs house was build to wow transatlantic passengers. Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England
©Jean Janssen

The Royal Liver Building on the Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England Note the mythical Liver Birds on the top from whom the city draws its name ©Jean Janssen

The Royal Liver Building on the Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool England Note the mythical Liver Birds on the top from which the city draws its name
©Jean Janssen

It was a short walk to the first stop not far from the sea terminal (where the passenger ferries depart from and where our cruise ship is docked). No rain today, but it is windy and cold. The morning rain had passed, so we braved the open-air upper deck of this two-level tour bus. Just across the street from our stop were the three main buildings that dominate this Mersey River Waterfront. The Royal Liver Building is classically designed and topped with the mythical Liver Birds from which the city derives its name. The middle structure is the Cunard Building built in Italian Renaissance/Greek Revival style. Prior to moving their headquarters to Southampton, the Cunard Cruise Company was headquartered here. The third building is the Customs House, the most ornate of the three, and built to impress the transatlantic cruise passengers that departed from Liverpool.

The revitalized docklands of Liverpool, England, home to the Liverpool Wheel
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool really is a maritime city. A 7-mile brick wall, parts of which remain, at one time walled the waterfront area from the city. The cargo portion of the docks is now about 5 miles from the passenger terminals. The area near the sea terminal (passenger area) has really been revitalized with former warehouses becoming apartments and amusement venues.

These old warehouses built right on the Albert Dock have been renovated into apartments, restaurants, bars, and other entertainment venues. ©Jean Janssen

Liverpool Headquarters of the White Star Line, owners of the Titanic
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool is our next Titanic connection port on this cruise. Although the ship never stopped here, Liverpool is the city of its registry. It was conceived and its plans finalized in the White Star office just across the street from the Mercy Waterfront. Captain Smith and most of the crew made their homes in Liverpool. There is even a dockside memorial to the Engine Room Heroes of the Titanic.

Buildings reflecting the diversity and long history of this Liverpool, England ©Jean Janssen

Buildings reflecting the diversity and long history of Liverpool, England
©Jean Janssen

Radio Tower dominating the sky in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool is the third largest city in England and dates from 1207 when it received its Royal Charter. Leaving the docklands, we began our tour with a stop on Chapel Street where history buffs could exit the bus and visit the headquarters of the Western Approaches. Next was Liverpool One Shopping Complex for major shopping. I was immediately struck by the fabulous buildings in Liverpool, too many to take pictures of. There was a great mix of architectural styles and periods representing the long successful history of this city.

Check out statutes of two of the fab four in this photo. You’ll have to make your own visit to Liverpool to see all four.
©Jean Janssen

We passed Mathew Street and the original home of the Cavern Club where the Beatles played almost 300 gigs between 1961 and 1963. You can visit the Beatles Shop and the Beatles Story, a walk-through audio-visual presentation on their history. There is another Beatles Museum on the Mersey Waterfront. The Beatles weren’t the only famous group to play the Cavern Club; The Who, The Rolling Stones, The Kinks, Stevie Wonder (ok, not a group) and Queen all performed there.

Roaming around Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

Liverpool, England
©Jean Janssen

Jane was right; the tour took about an hour. We went by the impressive library and St. George’s Hall, train and bus stations, shopping centers, and entertainment venues. Liverpool might be the only city to have two Cathedrals. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was completed in 1967 and is shaped like a funnel. It is renowned for its organ (4565 pipes). It may be the ugliest church I have ever seen. In contrast is the massive Anglican Cathedral, completed just over 30 years ago. Its sheer size is awe-inspiring. We will visit the interior tonight for a special evening performance.

Liverpool’s Chinese Arch stands in high contrast to the buildings around it
©Jean Janssen

Albert Dock, Mersey Waterfront, Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

We ended up back in the dock area, cold and wind-blown, but happy we had gone on the tour. Lots of museums to visit here-a branch of the Tate, a Maritime Museum, the Beatles Story. You can even walk down to the Albert Dock from here. We wanted to warm up and get dinner before the show so we headed back to the ship glad we had not just sat in the library.

Anglican Cathedral, Liverpool England
©Jean Janssen

After a grand buffet dinner and a change of clothes-too cold out to wear the original outfit planned-we took buses to the Anglican Cathedral. Rocky said the interior was breathtaking. The light streaming in through the stained-glass windows created the most incredible effect. Azamara Club Cruises has created these unique evenings on longer cruises, always different. They design an over the top event in a unique venue. Our cruise director greeted us at the church entrance as a Beatle. Once inside, a town crier and the captain grabbed you for a photo. That is while you were trying to pick your jaw up off the floor after catching a look at the interior.

Performances in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool for our “Azamazing Evening”
©Jean Janssen

The Liverpool Anglican Cathedral
©Jean Janssen

A quartet played chamber music as people filtered in and looked around, took photographs, and found a seat. After introduction of various Liverpool officials-the Lord Mayor, the Dean of Liverpool, Harbor Master, etc.- the captain welcomed us to the show. Two operatically trained performers sang and the organist played a full range on the impressive Cathedral organ. The accompanying light show was spectacular.

The Cavern Club Beatles, a Beatles cover band performed for us in the Anglican Cathedral in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

At the conclusion of the classical performance section of the show, there was a champagne reception while the stage was reset. The second half of the show was by the Cavern Club Beatles, a local cover band who even made a trip to New York in 2014 retracing the visit by the Beatles in 1964 to appear on the Ed Sullivan Show. That music in this venue stood out in marked contrast. They weren’t the best, but we enjoyed the show.

Late night fireworks along side our ship to end our “Azamazing Evening” in Liverpool
©Jean Janssen

The double-decker coach we returned to the ship on was much fancier than the one we rode over on. We were told that it was outfitted for the local football (soccer) team. We were riding in style. Everyone had enjoyed the show and were excited; we were told there would be a surprise when we got back to the ship. As we walked on, we were handed a cup of hot chocolate to which rum was added (not the surprise) and went upstairs for a late night sandwich buffet. Then there was a fireworks show on the River along side the ship. Fabulous. It was a spectacular evening.

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Albert Dock, Azamara Club Cruises, Cavern Club Beatles, Cunard Building, Liverpool, Liverpool Cathedral, Royal Liver Building, Titanic, White Star Line | Leave a comment

Dublin, Ireland

Posted on July 16, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Natasha and Rocky bar tending in an Irish Pub, The Abbey Tavern, Howth on Dublin Bay, Ireland.

The Next day found us with improved weather and docked in the Irish capital of Dublin. Dublin is a Viking city dating from 988. With Irish Independence in 1922, Dublin became the capital of the Republic of Ireland, today Ireland’s largest city. The Republic joined the European Union in 1973.

The Long Room, The Old Library, Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I have an afternoon tour of the countryside scheduled, so in the morning we took the ship’s shuttle into town. Our first stop was to see the Book of Kells at Trinity College. Dublin has three universities, but Trinity College is the oldest University in Ireland, founded by Queen Elizabeth I in 1592. Most of the buildings on the 40-acre urban campus date from the 18^th and 19^th centuries.

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Trinity College campus, Dublin, Ireland The Book of Kells, an amazing illustrated manuscript, dates from 800 AD. One of the oldest books in the world, it contains the four gospels written in Latin. “It is said to be the work of the monks at St. Columcille’s Monastery, from the island of Iona off the west coast of Scotland.” The book was sent to Dublin in 1653 “for reasons of security during the Cromwellian period” and came to Trinity College in 1661. It is truly beautiful. To see the book, you pass through a museum with detailed information regarding the origin and the specifics on the book before reaching the room where the book is held. The Book of Kells is kept on the ground floor of The Old Library on the Trinity College campus. Two volumes are on display and open for your viewing. No photographs are permitted in the museum or in the book room.

The amazing Long Room in the Old Library at Trinity College Dublin
©Jean Janssen

Above the museum on the upper floor is the most amazing library I have ever seen. “The Long Room” is 65 meters long and houses approximately 200,000 of the library’s oldest books. The books were originally on a single story. However, when the shelves filled, the roof was raised in 1860 to create an additional level.

The room also features marble busts down both sides from a collection started in 1743. One of the dozen copies of the Proclamation of the Irish Republic is also on display in the Long Room as is the oldest surviving harp from Ireland believed to be from the 15^th century. This room awed me; it is truly breathtaking.

Dublin signpost in both Gaelic and English. Irish children study Gaelic until age 15
©Jean Janssen

In the realm of study, I was surprised to learn that Irish children are required to study Irish Gaelic (not to be confused with the Gaelic spoken in Scotland, which has similarities but is a different language) until the age of 15. Many signs are written in both English and Gaelic. To become either a teacher or a policeman, you must be proficient in Gaelic. For 85,000 people in Ireland, Gaelic is the primary language. Some Irish students spend a summer in special communities where Gaelic is the language spoken to hone their language skills.

Statue of Oscar Wilde in Merrion Square Park, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

After viewing the Old Library and walking the length of the Trinity College campus, Rocky and I did some walking around in this area of the city mindful that we need to get back to catch our tour bus. We saw the National Gallery, National Library, Natural History Museum, and the National Museum. We wandered into several of the parks as well. In Merrion Square, we walked down wonderful wooded paths, saw unique children’s play area, and found a statue of Oscar Wilde in repose.

Government Buildings, Dublin
©Jean Janssen

The Government Buildings were quite impressive and on the backside we saw what appeared to be a set up for a news conference. As we were leaving we saw many more police officers gathering and knew something big was up.

You may recognize this bridge from movies set in Dublin. It is located in St. Stephen’s Green
©Jean Janssen

Swan family on the water in St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin
©Jean Janssen

The gem we found was St. Stephen Green, a lovely park with gazebos, fountains, footpaths, flower gardens, waterfowl, and scenic bridges. We had fun just wandering around and taking pictures here. Rain was threatened for the afternoon, but on this beautiful morning the park was full of young and old people alike. The lovely swans on the water just added to the romantic feel of the park.

An Irish Door, Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

One of iconic symbols of Dublin is the colored door, found in almost every color on the Georgian townhouses all over town. I had fun trying to spot ones in a color I had not yet captured on film. All too soon, it was time to head back to the ship. I would have been happy to stay in town for the whole day, actually you could have left me in St. Stephen’s Green for day and it would have been blissful.

After lunch on board, we boarded our tour bus for a visit to the Irish Countryside. Passing through Dublin, Our guide mentioned some of the city’s favorite sons, pointing out Mount Temple, where Bono (of U2 fame) went to school and the Bram Stoker museum. Dracula’s (literally “bad blood” in Gaelic) author grew up a sickly child and was influenced by stories of the cholera epidemic and the potato famine.

Dublin Bay. Note the lighthouse and helipad on the lower left
©Jean Janssen

We saw and learned a lot, but not what we expected. This really ended up being a tour of the Dublin suburbs around Dublin Bay. We passed a home with a thatched roof, a dying building type in Ireland with few craftsmen who can build and repair them now. In the outlying communities, until only recently the railroad crossing signals were operated manually. When the weather cleared, we saw people out enjoying the weather playing cricket or rugby. We passed old cemeteries with the reminder that we were in Ireland with all the Celtic crosses.

Malahide Castle outside Dublin, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

It was raining when the tour began which damped our photo stop at Malahide Castle, a fortress and home for over 800 years. Ireland claims the greatest number of castles in the British Isles, but some look more like stately home or are tower houses. Still impressive, they are simply not necessarily what one thinks of when you here the word, castle. An interior viewing was not included on our tour. We passed next through the villages of Malahide and Portmarnock, noting the two miles of sandy beaches.

Our friendly barmaid Blaithin at the Abbey Tavern in Howth Ireland gave us a turn behind the bar and posed for us next to the large bottle of Powers Irish Whiskey used when making the Irish coffees. Blaithin grew up nearby.
©Jean Janssen

After a photo stop of Dublin Bay, we stopped at Abbey Tavern in the fishing village of Howth. The traditional pub had a fabulous bar. The drink of the day was an Irish Coffee, but since Rocky and I don’t like coffee we had our whiskey straight up. They use Powers rather than Jameson because it adds an element of spice to the coffee. Our server even let Rocky and I have our turn behind the bar. It was a quaint place and weather cold enough that a wood burning fire was going inside.

Fishing boats in the Howth marina, Dublin Bay, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Celtic cross in the marina at Howth, Dublin Bay, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Our bus took us next down to the marina at Howth with colorful fishing boats and fishmongers (fresh seafood shops). Rocky and I walked along the embankment toward the lighthouse. Looking back up toward the village, you could see the ruins of the Abbey from which the Tavern took its name.

Abbey ruins at Howth, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

This is our last port in the Republic of Ireland. I would love to come back on a land-based tour and see more of the countryside. That said, I wouldn’t mind spending some more time in the cities we visited either. A cruise-based visit is just a tease, giving you a flavor for the Island and having you leave wanting more. Ireland (land based) is back on the bucket list. Green is my favorite color.

Harp-shaped bridge in Dublin, Ireland. I was surprised to learn that the harp, not the shamrock, is the symbol of Ireland. Don’t believe me? Check out the Guinness label
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Abbey Tavern, Book of Kells, Dublin, Dublin Bay, Howth, Ireland, Irish Gaelic, Malahide Castle, Oscar Wilde, Republic of Ireland, St. Stephen Green, Trinity College | 2 Comments

Kissing the Blarney Stone: Cobh and Cork, Ireland

Posted on July 15, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Natasha celebrated her birthday by adding another new country, Ireland, and kissing the Blarney Stone. Today we docked in Cobh on the southeastern coast of the Republic of Ireland. The weather was absolutely miserable with sheets of rain coming down and colder temperatures. We were not deterred and set out on our bus excursion to Cork and Blarney Castle.

The train station sits right on the passenger cruise dock in Cobh, Ireland.
©Jean Janssen

Actually transport from the cruise dock was very easy. Walk across the dock and you will find the train station for the short ride into Cork. Also right on the dock was a Titanic museum and a short walk up the hill brought you to a lovely Cathedral overlooking the Harbor.

Cobh Heritage Museum and village church, Cobh, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Cobh (pronounced “Cove”) is the historical name for this community that sits on Great Island. It is the historic port where transatlantic visitors and immigrants left Ireland. On the dock is even a statute of the first immigrant admitted to Ellis Island in New York. She left Ireland from this dock in Cobh.

The first immigrant admitted to Ellis Island was a young girl who left from Cobh, Ireland. This statute sits on the passenger dock at Cobh.
©Jean Janssen

Some may be more familiar with the name this town once held, Queensland, the final stop the Titanic ever made. The British Queen visited and the inhabitants requested they be allowed to change the name to honor her visit. The request was granted and the name Queensland stayed with the community until Irish Independence in 1922 when the name Cobh was restored.

Memorial plaque to the Titanic Passengers on the Cobh passenger dock
©Jean Janssen

One family in First Class and a large group of steerage passengers left from this dock to board the Titanic. Queensland was the ship’s last stop before crossing the Atlantic. Captain Smith actually did not pull the ship all the way into the dock but anchored outside the harbor to save time. The passengers were tendered to the ship. Many family members and friends and curious community members were there to see the ship off. Today a small, but well-done, museum sits on the dock and a memorial wall is in place next to the dock train station.

Bowed Storefronts in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Our bus headed off to a panoramic lookout near Fort George. With the weather, you could see absolutely nothing. We headed down to the picturesque village of Kinsale. Most people got off the bus and ran straight to the first teashop they saw. Rocky and I, raincoats on and umbrella in hand, braved the weather and walked around to see the village with its bowed store front windows (once again looking straight out of Harry Potter). One of my favorite buildings looked like a converted stable and was a combination Lawyers’ offices and brewery.

A winning office combination in converted stables in Kinsale, County Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Bridges in Cork
©Jean Janssen

Roaming around Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

Looking like drowned rats we boarded the bus headed back to Cork. The city dates its start from a 7^th century monastery. Cork is built on an island and has 27 bridges. Up until the 1740s, many of streets were waterways. It is sometimes called the Venice of Ireland. It is a major shipping city where dockworkers could paralyze the economy with a strike; all that changed with the introduction of the roll off shipping containers. It remains a city of major distilleries with primary industries in butter, beef, and beer. To encourage investment, the government made a significant drop in the corporate tax.

Musician performing the Titanic theme made use of four different flutes (also called pipes or whistles).
©Jean Janssen

Our lunch stop was also in Cork. We were treated to a traditional beef stew-the meat was very tender-and a drink of our choice. Included in the offerings was a Murphy, the traditional beer of this area (Guinness is associated with Dublin). Natasha, who is not a beer drinker, enjoyed a few sips before passing it on to Rocky who enjoyed two pints.

Young Riverdancers entertained us during lunch.
©Jean Janssen

Women entertained us with Irish Dance (think Riverdance) and a local band, The Weavers, entertained with Irish folk music. They worked very hard to include the crowd who were wet and hadn’t have enough pints to really get into it. Yes, it was still raining; the entrance to the party room as flooded and we ended up walking through another dining room to get to lunch.

Blarney Castle, Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

After lunch it was time for the tour highlight, a visit to Blarney Castle and the chance to kiss the famous Blarney Stone. We had given up on the idea of the stone until our lunchtime tablemates convinced us it was an opportunity not to be missed. We arrived at the carpark next to a shopping area in the village of Blarney, very charming. The grounds surrounding the castle are very pretty with wooden bridges covering the steams and lovely flowers that appeared just to be growing wild on the grounds.

Part of the interior of Blarney Castle as seen from the kissing line
©Jean Janssen

This castle was a tower house, and a tall one at that. It is in ruins. The Blarney Stone is at the very top. To kiss the stone you have to climb a long winding staircase, parts of which are uncovered. Standing in this line (which can be up to two hours) is the only way to see the inside of the castle. Already wet and celebrating my birthday, I convinced Rocky that we should go for it. I should tell you that in addition to the wait and the climb, to reach the stone you have to lay on your back, grab two metal poles, and lean down putting your head back. Yep!

Natasha at the top of Blarney Castle just after kissing the stone. Yep, Still raining, but I am looking pretty snug after my success. ©Jean Janssen

Natasha at the top of Blarney Castle just after kissing the stone. Yep, Still raining, but I am looking pretty snug after my success.
©Theodore Crane

It wasn’t pretty, but I did it. No one knows exactly where the tradition of kissing the stone comes from, but you kissing it and making a wish is said to give you the Gift of Eloquence. There are plenty of people that wish I had less to say than more. Perhaps the kiss will make me more succinct.

Blarney House also sits on the grounds; it is open for visitors 10-2 on weekdays
©Jean Janssen

The castle was a strategic stronghold long sought after by Queen Elizabeth I whose representatives were charmed on their visits, but never seemed to be able to come home with “the deed to the castle”. In her frustration, the Queen is said to have referred to it as “just a bunch of blarney stones”. Perhaps the origin of the tradition?

Footbridge on the grounds of Blarney Castle. Cork, Ireland
©Jean Janssen

We made a brief stop in the Mill store where I bought a few Irish linens and Rocky found a newsboy hat he liked. Finally there was the bus ride back to the ship. After the tour, we returned to the room to find they had decorated it for my birthday and even left me a special pillow. It was a complete surprise. I completed the day with a bottle of champagne. Not a bad birthday!

My cabin stewards on the Azamara Quest decorated our cabin for my birthday.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Azamara Quest, Blarney Castle, Blarney Stone, Cobh, Cork, Gift of Eloquence, Ireland, Kinsale, Queensland, The Weavers, Titanic | Leave a comment

Natasha goes on Holiday: Guernsey, Channel Islands

Posted on July 15, 2015 by travelbynatasha

©Jean Janssen

Lighthouse off St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey, Channel Islands with our ship the Azamara Quest in the background.
@Jean Janssen

Rocky and I are off on an adventure to celebrate his college graduation. Anticipating nice cool weather, we are cruising the British Isles with stops in the Channel Islands, Ireland, Isle of Man, Liverpool, Belfast, and the Isle of Skye and other ports in Scotland. We leave from Southampton and end in Edinburgh.

We are flying on a United Dreamliner. Uber to the airport and check-in was great. This newer plane with a premium seats-lots of legroom-was great. The windows were the neatest part. There were no shades; they just change color depending on the light. With travel during an American holiday, the plane was not full and Rocky got a row to himself.

Rocky and I are cruising in celebration of his college graduation. Our first stop is in the Channel Islands between England and France.
©Jean Janssen

The efficiency ended on landing. There were really long lines at immigration at Heathrow. We got our luggage and headed out only to find out that we had a 35-minute wait for the bus. Rocky fell asleep on my shoulder. Then where was another 45 minutes to circle the airport and collect passengers that had come into other terminals. The drive to Southampton took over an hour and a half. I will give Azamara credit for a quick check-in process although security was painstakingly slow. I have never seen such aged security workers in my life. We finally got our welcome champagne 5 ½ hours after we landed in England. We dropped our carry-on bags and headed up to fortify ourselves at the buffet.

Rocky and I were lucky. We booked late at a heavy discount on a “guarantee”. You paid the lowest price offered for the cruise and were guaranteed a room, but not a particular one. We could have ended up in an inside cabin, but we scored an ocean-view room a floor up from the lowest level near the center of the ship. We have a full itinerary this cruise with new ports everyday until 4 days at the end in Edinburgh. It’s a golf itinerary and some of the passengers will attend the British Open at the end of the cruise. We have a couple of “Titanic” stops on this cruise. Titanic’s initial departure on its maiden voyage was from Southampton. Our first stop is the island of Guernsey, in the Chanel Islands. This is a tender port for us; we are anchored just off the coast of the capital, St. Peter’s Port which “has been an active harbor since Roman Times.” The island is roughly in the middle of the channel, 13 miles from France and 18 miles from England. Dominion has gone back and forth between the two countries, but it is currently part of the British Empire. They do have some autonomy. They have their own currency, although British Sterling is accepted. There are a few places where it looks like they are just trying to be different-mail boxes that look the same as those found in London except these are blue instead of red.

Our guide for the town and castle tour was actually Scottish, but she loves living here with her English husband, a dairy farmer. We passed a large marina with one side for guests and the other for locals. On Sundays most everything is closed, but once a month there is an outdoor market and the vendors were starting to set up for “Seafront Sunday”.

We passed first the statue of Prince Albert and the lovely local church with the most beautiful flower baskets hanging from its fence. The morning was cloudy, but comfortable. The seaside quay has been doubled in size, but flooding still occasionally occurs. As we walked up to high street through a medieval passageway, our guide pointed out a medal hook in the cobblestones that was used to pull the goods from the ship up to high street. There was also a tunnel where the ill-fated cattle were lead up from the cargo holds to the town.

As we walked along high street, Rocky and I noticed a building at a Y intersection. We both had the same thought; it looks like Gringotts Bank from Harry Potter. Maybe a familiar design if you are from this part of the world, but for us a real treat. There were also lots of medieval markings on the buildings for tradesmen, et

There was a collection of interesting building surrounding the town square off the side entrance to the church. The gallows were erected in this area and in front of one of the buildings was a platform where a cage was placed; women accused of adultery were put inside. On the top of this building was a communications tower, cleverly concealed as a tobacco leaf in reference to the substantial tobacco trade that told place out of Guernsey.

Some of towers of Castle Cornet, Guernsey, Channel Islands
©Jean Janssen

The last stop on our tour was Castle Cornet with origin in the 13^th century. To reach the castle, it is a short walk along the castle emplacement built during the time of Victor Hugo’s residency on the island. The walk continues past the castle out to lighthouse. Turn back and look up the hill and you will see Victor Hugo’s home, Hauteville House, now a museum open to visitors.

The castle highlights the additions over various centuries with Elizabeth I’s crest above one entrance and Elizabeth II’s over another. The additions in unadorned concrete were made at the time of the German occupation. Graffiti swastikas can be found in some areas of the castle and the odd addition of the names of German women can be found at the entrances to tunnel entrances built by the Nazis. One of the German additions is of some current use; the harbormaster was calling a sailboat race from one of the gun towers during our visit.

The castle is now a tourist attraction with 5 museums reflecting the varied interests of visitors included with the admission price. At noon each day one of castle cannons is fired. It was fired two additional times this year, on Queen Elizabeth’s birthday and on the day of Princess Charlotte’s birth. The ticket price also includes costumed reenactments and period dancing in an upper chamber adorned with portraits of former English Monarchs.

Rows of solders ready to fire lined on a multiple steps moving into position after a row fired and ready to reload before it was their turn again. From the castle you also had a view of the ruins of Fort George that has yet to be restored, although there is some private homes that have been built in the area with a view to Havelet Bay and the castle.

St. Peter’s Port Church. Guernsey, Channel Islands,
©Jean Janssen

After our tour concluded, we walked back into town to catch the return tender to the ship. The skies had cleared and it had become a beautiful sunny day. Traffic at the Sunday market had definitely picked up and it appeared that day-trippers had also arrived by ferry. Guernsey is definitely a place I would like to return and spend several days.

St. Peter’s Port Church. Note the beautiful stain glass and the parishioners enjoying refreshments after services right in the church
@Jean Janssen

We found that services had concluded in the church so we were able to go inside. It is a gorgeous church and we were welcomed by a parishioner who invited us to have coffee. I saw what she meant. There was obviously no church hall, so their Sunday buffet was set up right inside the church and the parishioners were enjoying food and drinks. I opted just to look around and take pictures. The benches had wonderful needlepoint seat cushions and there were also footstool with beautiful and varied needlework designs. Charming.

Bench and footstools, 177, St. Peter’s Port Church, Guernsey ©Jean Janssen

Bench and footstools, St. Peter’s Port Church, Guernsey
©Jean Janssen

“Jesus walks on water” stained glass A perfect stained glass depiction for this seaside church in St. Peter’s Port, Guernsey.
©Jean Janssen

I had been impressed with the beautiful flower baskets outside, but the fabulous stained glass is what impressed me most. One window depicted Jesus as a fisherman, so appropriate for this seaside church. After that visit we took a tender back to ship for some naptime; Rocky and I are still a bit jetlagged. Tomorrow we add another new country; it will be my first visit to Ireland.

Posted in cruises, international | Tagged Azamara Club Cruises, Azamara Quest, Castle Cornet, Channel Islands, Guernsey, St. Peter's Port, United Dreamliner | Leave a comment

Near Grand Rapids-Rockford, Muskegon, and Lake Michigan

Posted on June 17, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Along the Rouge River in Rockford Michigan. Wish I had my kayak so I could join them. ©Jean Janssen

Along the Grand River in Rockford Michigan. Wish I had my kayak so I could join them.
©Jean Janssen

Rockford Michigan

I generally don’t go too far while visiting here in Grand Rapids, Michigan, but we did venture out a few days. One evening we drove to Rockford, Michigan about a half hour from central GR. The town is charming with wonderful little shops and eateries. Piped-in music charms you as you stroll along the streets.

I came here as a child to tour the Hushpuppy factory that has now been dismantled. I remember the tour as a fun and interesting experience, but with the work outsourced to China the shoe factory is no more and only a partial wall from the factory and an outlet store remain. It is not all bad news. The Grand River, the longest river in the state of Michigan-it also runs through Grand Rapids- which runs along the former factory site is much cleaner now and the town no longer smells like a tannery.

Rouge River Blues Summer Concert Series, Rockford, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Rouge River Blues Series, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

We are here for the evening to share an outdoor concert with my cousins Jim and Kris at the city park-Garden Park Stage- along the Grand River. This iconic summertime event (a similar event is held in my home city of West University Place in June-just too hot in July) is held weekly and lasts through August in Rockford. The concert is free and features local bands. Just pull up a chair or a kayak and enjoy the concert.

Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

The river and dam is on one side and the bike path (that goes all the way from GR to Cadillac, MI) on the other side of the small park. Cross the bike path and visit one of the many takeout eateries (or sit-in on their riverside porch) if you haven’t brought your own goodies from home. Our selection-“Rockford dogs” from Dam Dogs (very good, but I had never had a hot dog where they chopped the pickles into small pieces that completely covered the top of the bun) before the music started and cones from the next door creamery during the break. You can visit with your group, wander around and talk to friends, dance to the music, or meet the town commissioner dressed as a blues brother as he mingles with the crowd.

Troop 4305 from the Michigan Shore to Shore Council selling girl scout cookies at Rockford’s summer concert series, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

This is quintessential American summer stuff with hot dogs, ice cream, bicycles, and even girl scouts selling cookies.

Park at the Dam, Rockford, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

The setting features twin dams in the Grand River and a lovely new park where I saw a couple having their engagement pictures taken. Many of the concert goers choose to enjoy the music from the water sitting in a kayak they have brought from home or rented on the ramp just behind the stage.

It had been a warm day, but we had an excellent spot under a tree. At concert close, it was just starting to get a little cool, but you still didn’t need a jacket. A small temporary carnival was set up a couple of blocks down which made the parking a little tougher, but otherwise it was a perfect evening. We stayed through the entire concert; it is still hard for me to realize that it doesn’t even get dark here until 10 pm.

Mom getting ready for water viewing of the next concert. I suggested getting the water hose to create spray to give her the real experience, but no one took me up on that. I don’t even have to create these kodak moments; this was mom’s idea.
©Jean Janssen

The concert may be over, but I don't think this visitors had any intention of moving. ©Jean Janssen

The concert may be over, but I don’t think these visitors had any intention of moving.
©Jean Janssen

We drove back to Jim and Kris’ house and mom wanted to try out one of their kayaks so we could join the concert goers on the water next time. I didn’t bother to point out that it would help if she knew how to swim before she ventured into the middle of the river to watch the concert.

Hard to beat an outdoor concert in the summer, whether you are watching it from dry land or from the water.

Kris is the expert on booking camping locations. She and Jim will spend about half their summer weekends and several weeks camping out across the state. One of their favorite places is Hoffmaster State Park near Muskegon and about 45 minutes from central GR. My uncle has a park pass and often goes there just to read in the wonderful setting. He suggested we make a day of it. Although we got a later start that expected (we were all up late last night watching the NBA playoffs), before heading to the park we drove to Muskegon to check out a favorite bar-b-que spot of my Uncle’s.

Hwy 131 Bar-b-que, Muskegon, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

US 31 Bar-B-Que, a family business in Muskegon, Michigan for the past 52 years
©Jean Janssen

US 31 Bar-B-Que has been at the same location for 52 years and 5 generations of the same family have worked there. When I read the restaurant’s history-on a sheet of paper placed under the glass on our table top along with family pictures-I asked our server if she was part of the family. Turns out her grandfather was the founder, her brother was cooking the meat that day, and her mom was behind the counter filling orders.

Loved the food at this established Muskegon bar-b-hue spot still owned by the same family. My mom and uncle play “Vana”
©Jean Janssen

You could get a pork, beef, and/or ham sandwich. Our server said the pork and ham combo was her favorite. She said the beef was particularly good that day, so I tried that knowing my uncle was getting the pork and I could try a bite. No this is not Texas Bar-b-gue. The sauce, a secret family relish, was completely different and fabulous. The server put it on side for me since I had tried it before, but I ended up scooping it all on. The beef was wonderful; the pork was even better. I had mine with fries, but you could also get chips or a cup of soup. If you still had room, there was a great pie selection or try one of the several varies of baklava that they serve. My original was great. The food is absolutely worth a drive over to Muskegon.

Although the bar-b-que joint has been there since 1939, just a year ago that got to the idea to put up a map so visitor could make where they were from. The room was full on locals on our visit, but obviously people come from all over to try these sandwiches.
©Jean Janssen

The family was very nice and invited me to place a sticker on their map showing where I was from. They also agreed to a picture US 31 Bar-B-Que is small; there are only a few booths and counter seats. Be prepared to wait during prime times. Large groups would find dine in difficult- try ordering to go).

St. Jean Bastiste in Muskegon, Michigan founded by French immigrants in 1883. Due to changing neighborhoods and a lagging city economy, the church, which now only has a Spanish language mass on Sunday, may have to close its doors. If so, the Spanish mass will move to nearby St. Mary's founded in 1889. ©Jean Janssen

St. Jean Bastiste Catholic Church in Muskegon, Michigan founded by French immigrants in 1883. Due to changing neighborhoods and a lagging city economy, the church, which now only has a Spanish language mass on Sunday, may have to close its doors. If so, the Spanish mass will move to nearby St. Mary’s founded in 1889.
©Jean Janssen

The beautiful doors of St. Mary’s in downtown Muskegon, Michigan, founded in 1889.
©Jean Janssen

As much as I loved US 31 Bar-B-Que, Muskegon doesn’t have a lot to recommend it as a city. It appeared a dying town, with lots of for sale signs on homes and businesses alike. Muskegon is the largest city of the eastern shore line of Lake Michigan, built on the fur and lumber trade (a few of the lumber barons’ mansions still line the main street). They work at attracting tourism to a town where the factories have pulled out and people are out of work. To that end, there is a submarine museum, Michigan’s largest amusement and water park, and several beaches.

Nearby was our ultimate destination, P J. Hoffmaster State Park with 3 miles of shoreline, dune overlooks, almost 300 modern campsites, gorgeous beaches, and swimming. There is also hiking, cross country skiing in winter,a visitor center modern bathroom facilities, and changing rooms. There are no life guard for the swimming, but a flag indicates the safety rating of the water for swimming. There are even complimentary life jackets for your use.

Beach walkers and sea gulls enjoying the shore of Lake Michigan at Hoffmaster State Park, near Muskegon, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

My uncle drove to his favorite spot with picnic tables along side the forest and parking lot, changing rooms, and most importantly beach access. He was content to sit in a lawn chair under the trees after showing me the beach. Mom sat up at the top of lookout, not wanting to venture into the sand. I found the beach wonderful. There was a cooling breeze, but not so much as to make it cold or to kick up too much sand. The sand was beautiful, clean, and deep. There were people soaking up the sun and families enjoying play time on the beach. In spite of the red flag recommending no swimming, there were children playing in the water. I did dip my feet into the water; it was extremely cold.

Natasha goes to Lake Michigan, Hoffmaster State Park, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

The beach was a great place to relax. Even when I wasn’t looking at the gorgeous view of the water, I could still hear the sound of the waves as I flipped through my magazines. I sat for hours until my lack of sunscreen drove me back to the car. I could have made a complete day of it.

Got to love name of this place near Hoffmaster State Park in Michigan. Had a great pineapple malt.
©Jean Janssen

Mom loved the Weather Rock at Whippi Dip.
©Jean Janssen

Headed out of the park, we stopped at Whippi Dip for ice cream. I just had to-what a great name! It is even listed in 365 Things to Do in Western Michigan. If you had forgotten your picnic supplies, you could eat a full meal here and even get beach supplies. My mom loved the weather rock out by the picnic area with playground equipment. We hung around until after the evening traffic and then headed back to Grand Rapids.

Natasha is not so great with selfies. A little harder with a 35mm. My arm is just not long enough.
©Jean Janssen

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Dam Dogs, Girl Scout Troop 4305, Girl Scouts, Girl Scouts of the Michigan Shore to Shore Council, Hoffmaster State Park, Michigan, Michigan Shore to Shore Council, Muskegon, P.J. Hoffmaster State Park, Rockford, Rouge River Blues Series, St. Jean Baptiste, US 31 Bar-B-Que, Whippi Dip | Leave a comment

Wandering around town in Grand Rapids Michigan

Posted on June 12, 2015 by travelbynatasha

I only wish this way my ride around town. ©Jean Janssen

I only wish this was my ride around town.
©Jean Janssen

St. Andrews Cathedral, downtown GR. ©Jean Janssen

St. Andrews Cathedral, downtown GR. Cathedral Square was the site of race riots in the 1960s.
©Jean Janssen

Ah beautiful! Grand Rapids is named for the ripples that run on the Grand River in this western Michigan city, the second largest in the state and the hometown of former US President Gerald R. Ford. Formerly the custom furniture capital of the United States and sometimes called the city of steeples for the large number of churches, it is now the craft beer capital of the US (with the largest number of craft beers produced) and the medical hub of western Michigan. I have come here since I was a child and seen so many changes, but I look at it through new eyes now that my mom has decided to return and live here. Most of my mom’s side of the family still live here, so every visit feels like I am coming home.

Kyle O’Hearn pitching in Riverside Park. Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

One of my first nights here I visited Riverside Park on Monroe, across from the Veterans home and set along the Grand River. At bit of controversy surrounds the park now as some want to put in competition rapids for kayaks and terrace the park to avoid flooding. There is currently a wonderful walking trail along the river; the roadways have been reconfigured to add spectacular bike lanes. There are a couple of roundabouts, something seldom seen in the US. I have been here before for soccer games. Today I got to see my cousin Kyle play baseball. He played third and also pitched for his team. With two outs in the last inning, his team rallied from behind 2-11 to come within one run of a tie. Perfect weather and an exciting finish. The boys were so excited you would have thought they had won.

From beautiful victorian homes to cultural events, there is so much to offer. After living in Houston, I appreciate that there are the amenities of the big city without near the drive time I experience at home.

Art Prize submission from the first year now on permanent display in the duck pond in John Ball Park. ©Theodore Care

The Art Prize competition, set for 2 1/2 weeks in September and October, gives out the most prize money ($720,000 grants and awards in 2015) among similar competitions in the United States. Art installations are all over town with the highest concentration in Downtown. One of the prizes is voted on by the visitors and the other by professional judges. The economic impact on the city is more than 22 million dollars. The competition draws visitors from almost 50 countries; visitors total 400,000 with more than 30,000 visitors coming from outside the state.

Stocking and 4th Street in Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

This year I was in town for the 46th Festival of Arts, the first weekend of June and one of the longest running festivals in the state. Friday was overcast, Saturday perfect, and Sunday saw threatening skies and 20-mile-an-hour winds, but there were strong crowds each day. The free event in Downtown with music, performances, children’s activities, and a wide variety of foods has been part of the lives of Grand Rapids residents for generations.

Mom's grade school, St. Isidore's on Diamond in NE Grand Rapids. ©Jean Janssen

Up close and personal with the tigers at the John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

When we arrived, mom took Rocky on a “legacy tour” of some of the places she frequented as a child. I always enjoy when she tells Rocky stories, because I often learn things too. Many of the stops were places I went as child; they are smaller than I remember. Especially my grandmother’s home which had a basement, something we don’t have in a Texas home due to the soil. I always loved the zoo at John Ball Park and it has recently added a wonderful tiger exhibit. I really had to search hard to find the original pathways and enclosures. Things were very different. Go for the short, but memorable camel rides, the penguins (I recognized that building), frogs (another familiar and almost missed building), bald eagles, bears, tigers, and wallaby.

Camel rides at John Ball Zoo, Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

Van Andel Institute, Grand Rapids, Michigan

Like many American cities in my mom’s generation,Grand Rapids had people of many ethnic groups who populated distinct areas of the city. All you have to do is look through the roster of Catholic Churches in GR and you will find the churches founded by these various groups. That said, I was always told growing up that GR was primarily Dutch Christian Reformed or Polish Catholic city. Dutch names are found on many of the buildings along GR’s Medical Mile, sports and arts venues, Grocery store chains (Meijer) and even bakeries (Van’s Pastry Shoppe).

Marker at the intersection of Diamond Ave and Michigan in Grand Rapids acknowledging the Polish heritage in this NE section of GR.
©Jean Janssen

You’ll also find various markers acknowledging the city’s Polish heritage. A few doors down from my grandmother’s home is a marker for a Polish immigrant and American Revolutionary War military hero, General Casimir Pulaski. This heritage is also celebrated during Pulaski Days the first full weekend in October. A drink fest and organized opportunity to get some really good Polish food; the event will be held at 15 participating clubs in 2015 and I promise you my cousins will be there.

Marker at the Diamond Ave Hall in honor of Polish American Military hero, Casimir Pulaski. ©Jean Janssen

Each summer I am in Grand Rapids, I take advantage of the wonderful produce that is grown here and visit the farmers markets. My favorite is the Fulton Market (near Fuller and Fulton) open Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday 8am-3pm, but get there early for the best selection. This year I am a little early for some of the family’s favorites (like yellow beans) and we also got stock from Boris’s plantings, so I decided to venture to the Downtown Market.

My cousin Deb (in orange) helped me pick out some beautiful succulent arrangements at the Downtown Market in GR.
©Jean Janssen

Spices in the Downtown Market (inside) in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

The Downtown Market features indoor permanent stores and an outside covered market. You get 90 minutes of free parking with a charge after that. The outside area featured local vendor products with plants being the favorite. I found some wonderful succulents artfully displayed. Only wish I could get these home, but mom got some wonderful gifts. Inside, I made a stop for caramel popcorn, a favorite of my uncle’s. It got some wonderful spices; I bought the small jars which can be refilled at a discount price on future visits. Perhaps my favorite is the Black Truffle Salt. There was also a wonderful seafood market and at another stall I got some very tasty pear jam.

Cupcakes and Frosting Shots (!) at the Downtown Market, Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

And there is so much more to see in this city….

Posted in domestic travel | Leave a comment

Eating my way through Grand Rapids Michigan-Bakeries, Meat Markets, and Sit-down Restaurants

Posted on June 8, 2015 by travelbynatasha

A view of Reed’s Lake from Rose’s. Fabulous setting and wonderful food with a nod to the nostalgia with caramel popcorn at the end. I have already been twice on this visit. East Grand Rapids, Michgan
©Jean Janssen

I have been coming to Grand Rapids Michigan in the summer for as long as I remember. I leave the extreme heat and humidity behind for longer days, cooler evenings and mornings and a chance to actually enjoy the outdoors in summertime. Mostly, I am visiting family. My uncle preserved our grandmother’s home, so I still stay in the same house I visited as a child. It is in the NE part of the city, not far from downtown and the growing medical complex that serves most of Western Michigan.

Van’s Pastry Shoppe, East Fulton, Grand Rapids, Michigan. Started in the 1920s, they have been at their present location since 1941.

Mom doing a little window shopping at Van’s Pastry Shoppe, Fulton Street, Grand Rapids, Michigan.
@Jean Janssen

What am I doing when I am not visiting? I am eating. Don’t get me wrong, Houston has fabulous food, but here I can have all the kielbasa (Polish sausage) my heart desires. My “achilles heel” is the bread. There are so many wonderful bakeries and farmers’ market bread booths here that at some point I just give up trying not to eat it. The traditional standout is Van’s Pastry Shoppe on Fulton. This Dutch bakery still has their regulars sitting at the tables enjoying their coffee each morning. The décor is “eclectic cookie jar” (and they have 400 in their collection). The bakery has been around since the 1920s and at their present location since 1941. My mom went there as a child. Emma loves the cherry turnovers so much she orders 3 dozen to take home with her each visit and has even had them shipped to Texas. Try the windmill cookies. My mom and uncle favor the lunch sticks and I love raisins so I go for the fat boys. For National Donut Day in June they give the donuts out for free.

Happy National Donut Day, June 5. Van’s donuts, GR, Michigan

The bread standout for me is Nantucket Bakery with wonderful cranberry walnut and sourdough bread. My mom loves the rye and multi-grain bread. It is on Lyon Street and just around the corner (in the spot that last year also included the bakery) from their pizza take-out on Union. The pizza parlor is fabulous and open late. The bakery supplies to restaurants all over town and is worth the drive over even if you are not on the NE side of town.

Lewandowski's Market on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

On the steps of St. Adalbert’s Aid Society-the parking lot is the site of Kielbasa Idol

Did I mention the sausage? We arrived just in time for Kielbasa Idol held the first Saturday in June in the St. Adalbert’s Hall parking lot. For $5, you gain admission and the chance to try kielbasa from anywhere from 9 to 16 meat markets and vote for your favorite. For the past three years the winner has been Sobie’s Meat Market. Mom and I took a drive over to Sobie’s last year and stocked up. But my absolute favorite is Lewandoski’s Market on Walker. The sausage there is wonderful, but the bacon is to die for. Best bacon I have ever eaten! You can also get fresh pierogies while you are there. Couple of years ago I bought Rocky a market tee shirt and he advertises for Lewandoski’s in Texas.

Westsider Cafe on Walker in Grand Rapids, Michigan

On our first visit to Lewandoski’s this year, we also tried the Polish food at the neighborhood eatery, Westsider Cafe, on Walker. The cafe is open for breakfast and lunch. Rocky had the ham and cheese, mom the potato pancakes, but I went for the Polish Combination Plate. All were wonderful. Portions were so big that even with us eating off each other’s plates we still had to take some home.

Brann’s Kitchen 67 elephant ear dessert-cinimmon covered pastry with ice cream and whipping cream in a martini glass. Beautiful, yummy, and only 99 cents ©Jean Janssen

My grandmother’s tiny kitchen is a challenge, but I do do some cooking in there as well as eating out. I shop at the Meijer Food Store chain. They are huge now, but I remember the small one at Fuller and Michigan where my grandmother did her shopping. There are some comfort eateries in GR that we always try-Grand Coney on Michigan, Russ’s with multiple locations and the iconic dutch boy sign, Stake and Shake, Bob Evan’s. Brann’s–with multiple locations and an off-shoot concept Kitchen 67 that mom and I found next to the Meijer’s on the East Beltline-has a pretty good steak special at lunch or early evening, $6.99 for a 6 oz steak and a baked potato. The real deal may be the elephant ear dessert for only 99 cents. We have also been to the Twisted Rooster on the East Beltline; its “commit to the mitt” motto originating from the common association of the shape of the state with a mitten and a menu prepared from locally sourced items from Michigan.

My mom and uncle outside of Anna’s House at their original (and recently renovated) Plainfield location in Grand Rapids, Michigan.
©Jean Janssen

Although my sister Emma has tried Anna’s House, a comfort food eatery and the home of “Michigan’s Best Breakfast” according to multiple periodicals, this was my first visit. They now how three locations serving only breakfast and lunch and “Saving the World from Ordinary Breakfast”. I went to the older and recently renovated location on Plainfield. The decorations were bright and cheerful with colorful bell jars in the windows. I had a wonderful chicken salad, my uncle had the chili, and mom had Anna’s Gourmet Nut & Berry Salad. Talk about cleaning my plate. I lusted after the breakfasts I saw being served (although I am really not a breakfast person) and will try the newer East Beltline location when Emma arrives next week.

Mom at the Winchester on Wealthy in Grand Rapids, Michigan. ©Jean Janssen

Mom and I went exploring for a new place to eat in East town after mass on Sunday and found The Winchester on Wealthy. With the look of a bar (and it is open until 2 am), this hipster place has some great food. I had the stake and eggs with a wonderful aioli mayonnaise drizzle. The Winchester has a great bloody mary bar for those who care to partake-I am a mimosa girl myself. Mom commented that she was the oldest person in the place. I was probably the second oldest. Across the street is The Winchester Herb Garden and a neat looking eatery with a white wash and black umbrella tables outside. No branding, but we found out it is called Donkey, serves Mexican food, and has great margaritas-so it has been added to the list.

At server did an excellent job of managing all our plates at El Arriero on 28th Street in Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

At server did an excellent job of managing all our plates at El Arriero on 28th Street in Kentwood near Grand Rapids, Michigan
©Jean Janssen

So what is a Texas doing having Mexican food in Michigan anyway? Well actually I am used to Tex-Mex and this is not the same. I do like the food at El Arriero on 28th street. Not as spicy as Tex-Mex, but the fajita nachos are great and I enjoyed my sangria margarita.

Here's my model and dining buddy again. This time at The Electric Cheetah on Wealthy. ©Jean Janssen

As for the wandering around thing, Mom and I have done it before and discovered The Electric Cheetah also on Wealthy. This comfort-food eatery has a fabulous brunch menu and a wide variety of craft root beers. It is worth it just to see the unique decor and art behind the bar. I have been here on multiple visits to GR.

View of Reed's Lake beside Rose's on Lakeside in East Grand Rapids, Michigan ©Jean Janssen

My cousin Tony survived the wake splash sitting waterside at Rose’s. Note the lower pant leg is not shown. He recently graduated from U of M and is now a Doctor of Dental Surgery. He heads to Boston next week to explore his speciality at Boston University. I was here in GR the day he was born.

If we keep going east on Wealthy along this street which is brick in parts, you’ll end up in East Grand Rapids. Go through the gaslight district and run into Reed’s Lake where my mom used to go for the big pavilion with a roller skating rink inside and a few amusement type rides. There was also a pipe organ and double-decker, steam-powered paddle boat. Today it is home to the Grand Rapids Yacht Club and Rose’s. Rose’s has a perfect setting with views past the marina to the lake. On a pretty day, you can sit outside and right next to the water (and get splashed by the wake as my cousin Tony did on one of my two visits this trip to GR). At the end of your meal, they bring your check and caramel popcorn in homage to the local popcorn vendor who sold his product at this spot along the lake back when my mom was a child.

Time to make the donuts at Van’s.

Posted in domestic travel | Tagged Anna's House, Brann's, East Grand Rapids, El Arriero, Electric Cheetah, Grand Rapids, Lewandowski's Market, Michigan, Nantucket Bakery, Rose's, Sobie's Meat Market, Van's Pastry Shoppe, Winchester | Leave a comment

Natasha goes on a road trip (and misses historic flooding in Houston)

Posted on June 2, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Mom and Rocky at the Shake Shack in Marion, Arkansas ©Jean Janssen

My mom has decided to return to live in Michigan long term; I won’t say permanently because I suspect she will be back in Texas at some point. Rocky and I are driving her back now that the weather is warm. She is excited to once again have a car after living in Grand Rapids a year and a half there with only a bus pass. She has agreed to store the car for the winter months.

At Big John’s Shake Shack in Marion Arkansas. I once saw Rocky doe a pretty good version of Hound Dog at karaoke.

Hoping to beat the commuter traffic, we left Houston at 6:30 am and headed through East Texas to Texarkana. Rocky was thrilled to find a Pizza Hut that was still dine-in. We made that food stop and a few gas/restroom stops before making it to Marion, Arkansas which is basically East Memphis. Our Comfort Inn room was really nice, the two queen (rather than double) beds being the key. Dinner was at the “world famous” Shake Shack (aka Big John’s Shake Shack). The eatery is indeed a shack, but the decor is fun with lots of Elvis (we are very close to Graceland), John Wayne, and Lucille Ball memorabilia on the wall and book shelves. The food was extremely disappointing, but the owner friendly. He was from the area, but his wife was from San Antonio and he yearned to return to Texas. Not sure they need a franchise location of this place.

Mom enjoying the porch during our lunch stop in Marion, Illinois. ©Jean Janssen

We slept in the next morning and left after the traffic at 9am, although I am not sure how much traffic there was in the area to begin with (remember I live in Houston, the 4th largest city in the US). Even though we left later in the morning, it was 50 degrees-no more spring/summer Texas weather. Our lunch stop was at a Cracker Barrel. Now I know people swear by these places and Boris just loves them, but I actually couldn’t find anything on the menu I thought was worth the calories. Having to wind through a ridiculous gift shop didn’t make it better. Today was mom’s pick; she wasn’t happy at all about yesterday’s Pizza Hut that Rocky chose. I am picking tomorrow; we are getting a burger. It was kinda cool that the stop was in Marion, Illinois given the city we started at in the morning.

Rocky did most of our driving through the state of Illinois. ©Jean Janssen

Rocky has been driving today. It was really windy and he was working hard to keep the car steady; nice to have another driver. The deal is the driver picks the music and I suspect he drove just so he didn’t have another day of listening to my selections. After leaving Texas, our whole trip is interstate and today we were mostly going through the flat plains of Illinois. We did a late stop at Micky D’s for a $1 drink and 49 cent cone, got gas, and switched drivers so I would be behind the wheel to find the hotel.

Actually, our Comfort Inn in Kankakee, Illinois couldn’t have been easier to find. I do miss the navigation system in my car and Rocky couldn’t find his portable one to bring along, so we are going old school with maps or following our cell phones, completely discharging our batteries. (Luckily, we both brought car chargers.) This was another nice room and even cheaper (although just as nice) as the Comfort Inn in Marion. Once again we got a strange look from the receptionist as we rolled the luggage cart through.

Mom was a little crowded in the back seat and took to wearing multiple hats to conserve space. ©Theodore Crane

We wanted mom to have as much room as possible to pack things in the car, so we limited our suitcases and just took small bags to carry in overnight. Mom likes to take things in small, lighter bags. Each night, Rocky and I each took in a single bag, mom took in 7. Don’t ask me why, but she just loves to sort and resort her things. On top on these 9 bags on the cart, were a sampling of the vegetables that Boris is now growing. I was trying to keep them at a constant temperature, so I took them into the room each night. People wondered what the heck we were doing. Boris has decided to become a weekend farmer, but that is a whole other post.

We got free drink tickets to the Italian restaurant nearby, so Rocky and I went there for dinner, enjoying a glass of wine and some decent Italian food. I am pretty picky about my carbonara, but Tucci’s did a good job of it. Mom decided she wasn’t hungry and wanted to stay in an sort her bags (yes the same ones as yesterday) and clean the vegetables. Seriously, I am not kidding about this.

Custard Flavor of the Day varies from location to location at Culver’s.

We let the commuter traffic finish before we left and slept in again. I learned how to make waffles using a flip iron at the hotel’s complimentary self-serve breakfast. If I actually liked waffles, I might have to buy one of these. More gasoline and we were on the road before 9. I couldn’t believe how light the traffic was; we could have definitely left earlier. There have been tons of trucks the whole way, but decent roadways. However, looping around the southern side of Lake Michigan the expressways were in pretty bad shape and I pointed out to Rocky the damage the snow does on these highways. We thought we had a 3.5 hour drive, but did it in under 3. Nobody was ready for us, so we stopped outside Grand Rapids in Jenison and I got a burger at Culver’s. I actually think of this custard and burger joint as a northern thing, but there is one in The Woodlands, a suburb of Houston.

We had no idea that in leaving Houston when we did that we would miss the historic flooding. Our home got 9 inches of rain in two hours, stranding cars throughout the neighborhood. Our neighborhood fared better than many. Today Houston was declared a federal disaster area. Our hearts go out to our friends and neighbors dealing with the aftermath.–Natasha

Houston, Texas

Posted in domestic travel, road trip | Tagged Big John's Shake Shack, Comfort Inn, Culver's, Tucci's | Leave a comment

Final Days in Cabo San Lucas

Posted on March 5, 2015 by travelbynatasha

Sunrise in Cabo San Lucas.–Photo by Bob Kochman

More golf today for some, this time at Cabo del Sol. It was a full day outing for these guys, but they loved the course and likened their experience to Pebble Beach. The original plan was to drive to San Jose del Cabo for dinner in that artsy city just past the airport. I really like the restaurants better there and the city has more character. However, that area was harder hit by the September hurricane. Many in our group decided they just didn’t want to make the drive back and forth after a relaxing day.

Our dinner restaurant in the marina, Lorenzillo’s, Cabo San Lucas

Jane’s lobster bisque at Lorenzillo’s in the Cabo marina.–photo by Bob Kochman

A long time favorite of ours was Edith’s, but we wanted to try something new to us so we went to Lorenzillo’s in the Marina. Lorenzillo’s specialty is lobster and you can choose your own live one or select the lobster tail with one of 22 preparation options. Many are group were happy with the wine selection, which has never been great in Cabo, but is even worse since the hurricane. You dine upstairs, in or outside. The views would have been lovely with outside seating, but it was a cool and windy night and we opted for inside dining. I started with the corn and seafood chowder, which was only so-so. Since I was having lobster for my entree, I didn’t select my usual lobster bisque. I was definitely out-ordered by Jane who went in that direction.

The small fishing boat is the live lobster hold at Lorenzillo’s in Cabo San Lucas.

Bob and Jane enjoyed the atomosphere at Lozrenzillo’s in the Marina, Cabo San Lucas.

Marne ordered crab cakes, which actually looked more like golf balls, but were very good. We haven’t eaten much on this trip that has been fried. My lobster was good. I tried the butter and garlic sauce and also the cilantro sauce. Definitely go with the old standby of butter. I even added a little to my slightly dry pasta which came as a side dish to my meal. Boris spent most of the time watching the TV screen with revolving pictures of the dessert offerings. He was most disappointed when no one wanted to partake in the sweets. We did get the show for the few that ordered the flaming Mexican Coffee.

Villa Descanso.–photo by Bob Kochman

For our last full day at the house, men’s spa day was scheduled. We had at least one massage virgin among the men so it was fun to see Gordon’s reaction to the experience. Not all the guys were into it. Of course, Boris opted for the 90-minute massage and then had to come find me to pay for it since he had no cash.

Marne models one of Boris' big purchases, a viking helmet made of metal and cow horns, in the cab on the way back to Villa Descanso

M models one of Boris’ big purchases-a viking helmet made of metal and cow horns-in the cab on the way back to Villa Descanso. He also bought one on our trip here too years ago. You can’t have too many viking helmets.

The afternoon was set aside for shopping in town. Boris was the most excited of all and kept us moving so we would have enough time to find everything on his list-helmets, swords, Mexican wrestling masks, pharmacy items, guaybera shirts…the list goes on and on. They have some wonderful runners and other linens I wanted to look for and I am sometimes tempted by the clothing. I fairly quickly found the runner length and style I was looking for and then spent the rest of the time going shop to shop to find the best one at the best price. I actually bought two.

Jose Fernando and Terry Baca at the Office. Terry went into town earlier in the week with Todd and didn’t join us today. On her excursion she got some beautiful embroidered girl’s dresses and a slingshot. She is going to be very popular with the grandchildren.

Boris worked his way through his entire list, but opted out on the sword because it was not exactly what he wanted. He bought far more than anyone else. Most of the ladies found blouses they liked at the same store where Boris got his guaybera and the other place where I found my linens. Janie made a final find of another cute embroidered top and we all had to get one of those too. Afterwards, we stopped for drinks and appetizers at the Giggling Marlin and watched the evening performers practicing in the sun room. Boris ordered some great Belgium fries with dipping sauces that we all liked and the mojitos were enjoyed as well. I bought Rocky a souvenir tee shirt there.

Lobster and Steak night at the house.–photo by Bob Kochman

Back at the house for the evening, we enjoyed pool and fireside drinks and then sat down to our final night dinner of lobster and steak. Margaret had actually convinced our cab driver to help us find balloons. We went to two places and he came back and forth to the cab showing us a variety of sizes, colors, and quantities. She also told Boris he was responsible for blowing them up. After dinner, the guys flat out refused to reenact the Office Balloon Game, so we went outside to the fire pit and enjoyed Gordon’s George Stait music. All of a sudden we see Bobby Dean and MaryAnn playing with those balloons. They couldn’t stop laughing. That is when someone needed a camera.

Final Night gathering at Villa Descanso, Cabo San Lucas.

Final day was a lovely breakfast prepared by Fortunado, packing, and cabs to the airport-girls in one, boys in the other. Once again we enjoyed the new Cabo International terminal and met up again one final time to say goodbye at baggage claim in Houston. It was a fabulous trip. No need to wait for additional hurricane recovery to go to Cabo San Lucas. Already scoping out our house for next year…–Natasha.

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