No Madras, but Marrakesh aka quickly finding a new vacation

Ah, no India. After being left hanging for four days after the fire on the Quest was reported, our cruise was cancelled by Azamara. With less than a week before our scheduled departure, we were scrambling to find an alternative trip. Unlike Boris, I would have opted to save the money and take the perks the company offered for future travel. He had the time off work and was really looking forward to being away, so he wanted to find another option for the same time frame. We were able to identify two cruises that fit the schedule and included multiple ports we hadn’t been to. You would think the time frame would pose the biggest problem, but really identifying an available cruise with new ports was the hardest part for us.

Anyone that cruises knows that the best prices are always found by booking far in advance or very close to the day of departure when they are just trying to fill the ship. Our trip to India had been planned for almost a year and a half. Half the fun for me is the planning part-researching the options, finding the best air connections, reading about the ports, planning the excursions, considering the options at the departure and arrival points, ect. I felt a little cheated not to have that opportunity. The major difficulty with last minute planning for a cruise is finding available air connections. Sometimes they are simply not available or are so outrageously priced as to be prohibitive.

The Celebrity cruise we identified included passage through the Panama Canal and stops in several places I had never been to. (Too date; Celebrity is our favorite cruise line.) It had the added advantage of domestic departure and arrival points, which significantly reduces the cost of air travel to and from the ship. Boris had already been to all these countries though. He would have hit the century club mark of 100 countries on the Azamara cruise with India being 100. He was really disappointed with the idea of not making it to 100.

The other cruise was on a new line for us, Silversea. It is an extremely upscale line and one of those that I usually laugh at when I see the price, never thinking I would be able to try it. In this case, the price on Silversea that close to departure was 75% off and it dropped into our price range. With stops in Barbados, St. Lucia, Cape Verde, the Canary Islands, Morocco, and Portugal, it included my two favorite Caribbean islands and several new ports/countries for us. Boris was sold. He loved the idea of the premium service and that he would hit 100 countries when we docked in Casablanca.

Now to get the air…we were very fortunate to have Beth in our corner. With the exception of complicated dive travel and booking cruises, I do almost all our travel planning and arrangements. The Internet has made this so much easier than it was years ago when I was making international phone calls. Although I have booked cruises directly, I now plan exclusively with our travel agent Beth Wehunt with the cruise division of Vacations to Go. Beth really worked hard for us-fighting for what we deserved in compensation for our cancelled cruise (a whole blog post in and of itself), booking a new cruise, securing cabin credits, and finding air travel. She knows I like to book our own air, but in this case she found out air was still available through Silversea and encouraged us to at least put it on hold. It was less than half the price of any self-booking options for air. She also secured for us a $1000 on-board credit.

This close to the sail date, Celebrity would only hold the cabin one hour, but we had 24 hours to make our decision regarding Silversea. It didn’t take that long and we booked on Silver Spirit, the largest of Silversea’s six ships. Large is a relative term-more on that in a future post.

Where Azamara has casual cruising with no formal nights, Silversea’s 14 day cruise includes 3 formal, 5 informal, and 6 casual nights. The temperatures we were anticipating in Singapore, Thailand, and India were in the lower to upper 90s. While Caribbean temperatures were in the 80s, you never know the temperature at sea and later ports on the Silversea cruises had temperatures in the 60s. Needless to say, we had to do some repacking, or at least, re-planning. We were also not able to use our air miles and enjoy the perks of our United Airlines status (early boarding-which translates to first dibs on the overhead space and more luggage, three 70lbs bags on international travel) so we were going to be limited to one checked bag of 50 lbs. I am one of those people that actually enjoy the puzzle part of figuring out what to take in the limited space, just not when it is the second time for the same trip. My mom has always adopted the “mix and match” philosophy. I start with shoes; I kid you not. Shoes (although not sandals) can take up the most room in a suitcase. Once I pulled the black pumps I was taking for formal night, deciding on the dresses was easier.

There was no time to plan the excursions; we just took a look so we made sure we had the right clothes/shoes for anything we might do. With 5 sea days following the Caribbean ports, we knew there would be time later to look into the options. We did have the advantage of shorter air travel. The travel to Singapore with a stop in Toyko was going to take almost 23 hours. The return from Mumbai (Bombay) took just as long. Our departure point for the new cruise was Barbados. We had one stop in Miami and a very short layover before arriving in the Caribbean. The return will not be as pleasant. We fly Lisbon to Paris, Paris to Atlanta, and finally Atlanta to Houston. None of the airlines will give us frequent flier benefits. This is a distinct disadvantage of using the air transportation provided by the cruise line. The plus is that if there are problems, the cruise line will find a way to get you there and home.

We had a very early departure from Houston, 6 am, which meant getting up at 3:45 am. In spite of the early hour and departure from one of the smaller terminals at IAH, there was a line for check-in and an even longer one for security. We are used to the priority lines with United and clearly have been spoiled by them. An hour was not enough time for the process and they were already boarding when we arrived at the gate. We only had a 40-minute layover in Miami, but fortunately the plane arrived 20 minutes early. Both flights were on American in the same terminal, but we found out that being in the same terminal in Miami does not mean you can walk from one gate to the other. We had to board a train and once again the plane was already boarding when we arrived at the gate. American permitted us one free bag at 50 lbs since we had an international flight. If we wanted anything other than a middle seat, we had to pay for our seat selection on both American flights. The flight was full and ready to leave on time, but there was a mechanical problem with the recorder box, so we had to wait for a replacement and left 40 minutes late.

The good news was we made it to Barbados and so did our bags. I have had luggage not make it in time for a cruise. We once left on a cruise from Venice a day after our arrival there by plane and me with no luggage. It didn’t catch up to us until Istanbul, 5 days later. Transportation to the ship was included with our air arrangements with Silversea upon our arrival in Barbados.

Built in 2009, Silver Spirit is a small ship with a passenger capacity of only 540. The check-in process was easier and faster than any we have ever experienced. After a glass of champagne and the registration on our credit card at the front desk, we were escorted to our suite, 905. All the rooms on the Silver Spirit are suites. The room was huge for a cruise ship. There is a full bathroom with a tub and separate walk-in shower. The shower itself is bigger than any I have seen on a cruise ship. The bathroom was done in Italian marble and teak. The suite also has a walk-in closet. Yes, I did say walk-in closet. (I didn’t even know that they put walk-in closets on a cruise ship.) We have a butler, a handsome young man from India. He is there to assist with whatever you might need-including unpacking your luggage. In addition to the butler, there are two young women from the Philippines that fully clean the room twice a day. Who totally scrubs down the whole shower twice a day?

It was after 3:30 pm and I hadn’t eaten all day, so we went to the pool grill (on our floor) to have a late lunch. I am used to a pool grill where you stand at the counter and wait for a hotdog or burger to take to your table. Here we were served at the table and could have a nice lunch, anything from that burger to a steak. Our bags were already at the room when we arrived back and I opted to unpack myself so I could find what I wanted later. We did walk around the ship a bit, but opted from an early dinner and then to bed after the long day.

I should say a word or two about Barbados. It is my favorite Caribbean island with the most beautiful white sand beaches. Much of the Caribbean has been spoiled by overdevelopment and Barbados is no exception, but you can still find a quiet place there and they have improved the roads and traffic conditions. They are fond of roundabouts and you should be prepared for driving on the other style of the road, British style. I love Mullins Beach, but found the access is more difficult than it used to be. However, all the beaches in Barbados are public. A new find is Crane Beach with an amazingly beautiful cove. There is a wonderful sandy area, but the water is definitely rough and might not always be suitable for swimming. You have to go see the monkey preserve and it is a great island to rent a car and wander around on. We are off to St. Lucia next.

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India Trip Cancelled? …or I can really pick a cruise ship

I was taking a blogging break until Tuesday when, one week out of our next trip, I planned to preview India.  Although we didn’t realize this when we scheduled, Boris and I were set to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the sinking of the Titanic with an ocean cruise.  With a departure from Singapore, we were not too worried about icebergs.  It appears we should have been worried about fires.

In January the Costa Concordia ran aground killing 32 people.  Boris, Rocky, and I used to sail on Costa ships until they were sold to Carnival and the quality just went downhill.  It is a different way to cruise than most Americans are used to with its primarily European clientele.  There are lots of languages spoken on board.  We took our China/Japan trip on a Costa ship, but that is several more blog posts in and of itself.  A month after the Concordia disaster, Costa Allegra went adrift in the Indian ocean for three days in an area frequented by pirates.

Boris, Rocky, and I all cruised aboard the Concordia in the Mediterranean  during  Thanksgiving week one year.  Now I have picked another winner.  On April 12, we are scheduled to depart Singapore on the Azamara Quest for ports in Thailand and India.

Two days ago, there was a fire in the engine room on the Quest.  After being stranded 24 hours, power was restored and it limped into Malaysia today traveling about 6 miles an hour.  Essential function had been restored, but there was no air conditioning on board.  I have been watching the temperatures in our port cities; they range from the low to upper 90s.

I had been a little nervous traveling to India, but thought we would limit our health risks by staying on board the cruise ship.  Maybe I need to rethink that theory.  Ah, the best laid plans…

We are to receive an update tomorrow.  I’ll keep you all posted.  If not India, you may be reading blog posts about how to put together an international vacation at the last minute…

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Our Last Day in Bonaire and a few practical tips for traveling to the Island

Gio’s on the main street for gelato
©Jean Janssen

This is our last day in Bonaire.  Resting, packing, and a little more island exploring is on the agenda.  We headed into town to grab lunch and just walk around the city center.  Most shops were closed from 12:30-2:00 for lunch.  If you wanted to eat lunch in town, there were very few options-probably different when the cruise ships are in town.  We had a big breakfast and still had plenty to munch on for lunch back at the room, so we opted for a midday dessert, gelato at Gio’s, right on the main street.  I tried the cheesecake with cherry topping and the coconut with chocolate.  The coconut was out of this world.  Loved the decorations here.  All black and white, with a few red accents-white leather chairs and black chandeliers.

Tablecloth at a downtown cafe which serves Dutch Pancakes.
©Jean Janssen

Things were pretty quiet in town today.  Many of the restaurants are open only at dinner.  During the day, most of the tourists are diving or windsurfing.  I was surprised at the number of restaurants not open on the weekends, even at night.  Our receptionist told me that many of the businesses are run by a husband and wife team with only one or two other employees.  They like to take the days off.

We walked around the town square where there was a food festival the last time be came to Bonaire.  We also walked along the harbor, saw all the sailboats, and checked out spots for seaside dining that evening.  Sometimes it is all about food.  Diving does work up an appetite.  (Oh yea, we are not diving today.)

Downtown Kralendijk
©Jean Janssen

caves along the Barkadera
©Jean Janssen

access point for 1,000 steps dive site
©Jean Janssen

It was not a sunny day and I was still nursing a sunburn, so we decided not to go to the windsurfing beach at Lac Bay as originally planned.  We drove down the Barkadera and checked out the oldest caves on the island.  As you continued down the road, you came to various dives sites, all marked with a yellow-painted stone with the site name.  The most popular was 1,000 steps, a site we had dove from the boat.  There were lots of divers there braving the steps and a few photographers like me just taking pictures.

a local greeter for the tourists
©Jean Janssen

A few practical matters about Bonaire.  US currency is the standard here, so American visitors have no worries.  MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted, as is American Express to a more limited extent.

My favorite road sign in Bonaire-diver crossing. ©Jean Janssen  You will want a car if you are staying on island for more than a few days (unless you plan to just dive or windsurf from your resort).  Gas is expensive, but the island is small so you don’t need much.  Driving on the right side is the correct side, so no difference there for most international drivers.  The big rental car company here is AB Car Rental; my friends rented from them with great success.  Total also does pretty big business.  I rented from Budget as a familiar company and one that offers an automatic transmission option.  I was not happy with them, a repair took a long time and they wanted me to pay for a tire that had been cut from the inside which had clearly not happened on my watch.  (We came out the first day to find the tire totally flat and the wheel sitting on the rim.  I had only driven the car to the resort. )  They seemed to be charging every other person returning a car for some repair.  Total Scam.  I would not rent from Budget again on Bonaire.

 

There are four major languages spoken on the island-Papiamentu (local language of the ABC islands), Dutch, English, and Spanish.  American visitors will have no issue communicating verbally, reading some of the packaging and signs, particularly in the grocery store, is a more of a challenge.

Temperatures are given in centigrade, so be prepared for a little conversion when putting things in the oven.  The controls on the appliances are also unfamiliar and there is some trial and error involved in the process.

If you want air conditioning, confirm your room has it before booking.  Even if they advertise AC, it is often only in the bedrooms.

Although readily available on the island, some rooms are not stocked with things like soap, paper towels, or cleaning supplies like dish washing liquid.  There is also no conditioner for your hair and believe me you will need it if you are getting in the salt water everyday.  (This is one of my major peeves about Walt Disney World, which I love by the way.  Why don’t they put conditioner in the rooms?  It’s a little more understandable on Bonaire.)  Also, many rooms don’t have microwaves.  This was my one suggestion to the Caribbean Club-get microwave ovens for the rooms.

A career-changing opportunity on Bonaire
©Jean Janssen

And finally, if you are like me and have an adult child who just hasn’t found himself or herself, or you have just always wanted to be part of the medical profession, may I suggest Bonaire and the St. James Medical School.  (It is also a popular hangout for the donkeys.  I spotted a herd of 7 of them there one morning.)

our view at dinner
©Jean Janssen

We ended the day with dinner along the harbor, wonderful seafood tapas at La Guernica.  We had to make sure we were packed and ready to go before going to sleep.  We had to wake up at 4:30 am to make our early flight home.  It was a wonderful trip.  Rocky thanked me often during the week.  I highly recommend a trip to Bonaire, especially if you love diving, windsurfing, or wild donkeys.

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Final Day of Diving

This guy just looked right at me.
©Jean Janssen

We have to stay out of the water for 24 hours after completing our final dive before we fly, so this is our last day of diving.  Two wonderful dives today to 18 Palms and Country Garden.  It was sprinkling when we arrived at the pier.  We are in a smaller boat today, no cover over the gear.  Just about the time we boarded the boat and were putting our gear together, it started raining really hard.  It is not like we are not going to get wet, but at this point we are wearing our dry clothes, the ones we use after the dive to warm up.

posing scorpionfish
©Jean Janssen

18 Palms is on the south side of the island, near the airport.  It is a great site for seeing rays, although we didn’t spot one.  I saw several scorpionfish including one that seem to want to pose for me, very unusual.  Lots of schools of fish at this site and some wonderful coral.  The sky cleared just as we arrived at the dive site.

wonderful purple color at the tips
©Jean Janssen

Our next site was Country Garden at the north end of the island.  Longer boat ride for this one.  The sea was rocking and rolling on this end of the island, which made our entry and exit challenging.  Another turtle for my final dive and I saw wonderful schools of fish, very representative of Bonaire  diving.  A large school of blue tangs swam right through me at one point.

blue tangs in a variety of shades
©Jean Janssen

There were lots of nudibranch and something that looked like a daddy long-legs which may have been a brittle star.

After we got out, the sky was very clear and we had to deal with one of the other problems with having a smaller boat with   no cover- too much sun.  My “dry” clothes were wet from the earlier rain, but I got sunburned from the exposure after the dive, a no win situation.  It was a bad burn and gave me an excuse to go back to the grocery store in the afternoon.

A full size basket only if you rent it
©Jean Janssen

We cleaned our gear first and the soaked a few of the items in “sink the stink” before drying and packing everything for home.  We have tomorrow to let things fully dry out.  I went to the market for water and aloe vera for my skin.  I found out you can get one of the full size grocery carts by inserting money, which is returned at the end.  Apparently, people have now started to take the basket carts.  I saw Housekeeping  removing a basket cart from one of the rooms at our resort.

©Jean Janssen

There are always special treats to be had at the Dutch supermarket.  I skipped the disco sticks.  (I just couldn’t buy them after that Lady Gaga song).  We winged it on the ice cream (deciding by picture only) and got one with pears and nuts that was wonderful.  Let me recommend Peren Droomijs, perensorbet & slagroomijs, met karamelsaus & stukjes amandel by Hertog.  Bet you couldn’t figure it out without the picture either.

We ended the day on our porch enjoying the purple sunset and eating up the food we had bought or brought from home.  Only one more day in paradise.

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Eels and a milestone dive

Photograph of a yellow frogfish I shot in Indonesia (2010)
©Jean Janssen

Thursday’s diving was really special, dives 199 and 200.  I had the camera today, but no strobe.  These were the least picturesque dives of the week, but you’ll see there was still a lot to photograph (all pictures from the previous post were from these dives).  There were some special finds today, a yellow frogfish (very rare) and a turtle (common, but always fun), some of my favorites to photograph.

photograph of a turtle I shot in Borneo (2004)
©Jean Janssen

spotted moray eel
©Jean Janssen

People have been seeing eels on our dives, but this was the first day I spotted one myself.  I saw several spotted moray eels.  You usually see them with their heads slightly out of their “cave” with their mouths open ready to catch whatever happens by.  I see eels all the time, but it is rare to see them free-swimming.  Today I saw two free-swimming eels.

My 200th open water dive
©Theodore F. Crane

Our second dive of the day was at Small Wall.  There was a cave at the bottom on the wall where Rocky got my picture in honor of my 200th dive!!  I am not sitting on the sand, just posing in a suspended state.

And because you can’t just stop at 200… we did a night dive so I could start off the third set of 100.  We went in at the Buddy Dive pier (easier than doing a night dive off a boat) and kicked out on the surface until we were past the moored boats.  Just as we were descending, a manta ray swam by.  So cool!!  The dive could have ended there and we would all have been happy.  It was a really a twilight dive.  I like Twilight dives, it is a much easier entry and you acclimate slowly as you lose the ambient light, watching the underwater activity change.  Right off the bat, I spotted two more eels.  It was the day for eels.  Plenty of light when we went in and we really only needed flashlights at the end.  Which was a good thing because Rocky and I carried 3 flashlights, one each and a backup, and both our primary lights ran out of juice during the dive.  We went to the pier together with the backup.  We were with our dive group, so no worries.  Rocky enjoyed this dive.  That is two night dives for him.

Rocky at the Small Wall dive site
©Jean Janssen

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“Lionfish Reef”

We dove with schools of fish during each dive in Bonaire.
©Jean Janssen

We had originally scheduled afternoon boat diving, so I was half asleep when the knock came at the door at 7:45 am to let us know there was a schedule change and that we needed to be at the Dive Shop at 8:15.  I couldn’t even find the key to the front door and was speaking to Igor through the slats in the vents next to the door.  He said our neighbors were having their coffee on the porch and were wondering what was going on.

An underwater self portrait
©Jean Janssen

Rocky and I got up, he had breakfast, pulled all our gear together, and drove the 15 minutes to the dive shop to make it there on time.  Unfortunately, the underwater camera and my backup computer didn’t make it into the bag.  We had an all Italian crew-boat captain and dive guide.  Most of the staff is Dutch.  Only one equipment issue-loose straps on Rocky’s tank.  We might have this down by the time we leave at the end of the week.

A French Angelfish (the easiest to photograph because they are big and move slowly)
©Jean Janssen

We went out to Klein Bonaire again to a beautiful reef, Joanne’s Sunchi, which is on the south side of the island.  The wind picks up there later in the day, so the entry conditions are best early.  Of course since I didn’t have my camera, we saw lionfish, barracuda, anemone shrimp and the largest pair of porcupinefish I have ever seen.  “Granddaddy” just kept floating by, proud he had lived long enough to make it to that size.  In spite of the morning rush, it was a relaxing dive and I continue to do well on my air consumption, surfacing with half a tank or more after an hour-long dive.

A Juvenile Blue Tang (the adults look like “Dori”)
©Jean Janssen

We are back on the large catamaran functioning as a dive boat.  There is no head (toilet), but our dive master announced that “the facilities” were open at the end of the dive.  In others words, when everyone is out of the water they leave the ladders down and you can go back in without your wetsuit (we do wear swimsuits underneath for the uninformed) and hang out until you are done.  Have a loose swimsuit?  Even better.

Colorful coral and a branching vase sponge
©Jean Janssen

We met another family on the dive boat, also on spring break.  “Dad” had an underwater camera with dual wide-mounted strobe lights to go with his wide-angle lens.  Of course they were from Texas-everything is bigger in Texas (even if it’s from Texas being used in another country.)  Jane had her camera and daughter Svetlana (Rocky thought she said “slut-mamma”) was Mom’s spotter.  When she became bored with her camera assistant duties, she acted out “I dream of Jeannie” under the water.

A school of yellowtail snapper. Svetlana would rub her tummy like she was hungry every time we would see them.
©Jean Janssen

The junior diver in our group, Demetri, picked the second dive of the day based solely on the reef’s name, No Name.  The site is also off Klein Bonaire on the North side.  There is a white sand beach and a pirate ship ferried tourists back and forth to the shore on a dingy.  (There is another cruise ship in town today.)  This meant we had to be extra careful when surfacing as to not come up under the dingy’s motorblades.

I love spotted trunkfish
©Jean Janssen

We must have seen a dozen lionfish on this dive, often in groups of three.  Makes for an interesting mating ritual.  Back on the boat we began referring to the dive site as Lionfish Reef.   I also saw another barracuda and several tiny shrimp only about an inch long.  I spotted a juvenile porcupine fish in an interesting gold color.  Another fabulous, calm dive.

Rocky enjoying the sunset.
©Jean Janssen

©Jean Janssen

No night dive today, so cocktails at our friend’s house and then we all went out to dinner in town at a nice seafood restaurant, It Rains Fishes, where you sit on the porch and enjoy the breeze and the view of the harbor.  The girls discovered that the drinking age in Bonaire is 16 and a nice time was had by all.

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Windsurfing, Wild Donkeys, and Rocky’s first night dive

I was back at the supermarket on Monday afternoon picking up supplies for a shared dinner with friends who had rented a house on the island near our resort-a wonderful spot on the Barkadera.

grazing goats on Bonaire
Photo©Jean Janssen

Tuesday morning, anticipating our night dive, we slept in.  Yes, I was still in my nightgown when housekeeping arrived.  I’m on vacation.   Before midday we headed out to do a little touring on the south side of the island.  We intended to stop in town, but a cruise ship was in port so we kept on driving.  We drove through the brush area where goats grazed freely.  My Daddy always used goats to clear patches of land, simply moving the fence lines when one area was cleared.

Windsurfing beach at Lac Bay
Photo©Jean Janssen

We passed the stables for horseback riding and the butterfly gardens and found ourselves at Lac Bay with its beautiful white sand beaches.  I always thought there wasn’t a lot to do on Bonaire if you weren’t diving, but I think there are as many windsurfers on the island as there are divers.  Several bars and restaurants line the beach and there are lots of places to rent or store windsurfing gear.  There is also a resort at Sorobon if you want to stay right where the action is.  Even if you aren’t surfing, you can rent a beach chair, have a drink, wade in the water, have a massage, or just watch the show.

Lounge chairs and the massage hut at Sorobon
Photo©Jean Janssen

view of the bay from Kon Tiki
Photo©Jean Janssen

We had lunch at Kon Tiki, a restaurant on the Bay.  Rocky and I enjoyed fresh fish and a banana shake-no alcohol before the night dive.  Kon Tiki also has apartments to rent with a view of the Bay.

After lunch we went back to town, passing the donkey sanctuary on the way in.  There are wild donkeys all over the island.  On my first trip here I rolled the window down to get a good picture of a donkey on the side of the road.  He stuck his head right in hoping for food.  I just tried not to get bitten.  As I asked my mom for help, she just kept taking pictures.  This time we left the windows rolled up or kept the finger on the power button.  Glad not to have the manual crank for the window in this rental vehicle.

Bonaire wild donkeys on the side of the road
Photo©Jean Janssen

We ended the day with a night dive at the salt pier.  There is a tremendous amount of salt mining on the south quarter of the island.  This is a beach dive, so you gear up (except for fins) on land and walk in.  Easier said than done; there was serious surf at the shore line. We dove in the dark by flashlight out to the pillars holding up the various platforms that make up the salt pier.  Lots of drama before the dive with tank issues.  I had the hardest time getting my fins on in the surf.  The dive master was behind me and Rocky in front putting them on.  Ridiculous.  Our dive master was Francesca from Parma (think Ham), Italy.  She was very patient with us, especially considering it was Rocky’s first night dive and the “dive Princess” couldn’t get her fins on.

scorpionfish

Underwater, Rocky and I were perfect and it was obvious Francesca was surprised (given the beach and surf drama).  We saw a scorpionfish right off the bat, wonderful coral in a wide variety of colors on the pillars, lionfish, and fluorescent plankton in the water-where you turned off your light to get the full effect.  Reloading your gear in the dark is challenging, but it was a great experience overall and I was so proud of Rocky.

We ended the day with a late dinner on our patio.  Perfection in Paradise.

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Our first dives

We did our first dive in Bonaire on our arrival day, but not before taking a nap for several hours after our red-eye flight.  We are staying at the Caribbean Club which is affiliated with Buddy Dive.  We stayed at the Buddy Dive Resort the last time we came to Bonaire.  Caribbean Club is a little farther from town, but the price was significantly less and they had availability.  The island is very busy during spring break.

The entry platform at Buddy Dive Resort, Bonaire
Photo©Jean Janssen

We did a dive off the pier.  Good thing for me we did a check-out dive; one of my hoses was leaking air and the dive staff replaced it for me.  My last dive was October 2010 and boy did it feel great to get back in the water.  Buddy Reef is an easy dive site.  Straight out to the reef and then north along the reef into the current and then south riding the current back.  Twenty-five minutes out, takes only about 10 minutes back, a slow current.   We were down about 50 minutes.

The colorful fairy basslet

The colorful fairy basslet

I had forgotten about all the wonderful schools of fish in Bonaire.  The reef is really healthy, maybe even healthier than when we were here  3 years ago for spring break.  This is easy diving and a great location for beginners.  It was a good choice having not dove in a while.  We heard lots of languages being spoken on the pier; there are people here from all over the world.

Pasa Bon Pizza 5-11 pm Wednesday-Sunday
Photo©Jean Janssen

After cleaning our gear at the resort-our room includes a private rinse tank and locker-it was time for a shower, an evening cocktail, and dinner in town.  We have a favorite pizza place, Pasa Bon.  You can’t miss it.  It is on the main road and has an old stop light outside which blinks “stop” in red; “for” in yellow, and “pizza” in green.  There is always a long wait, so call ahead for reservations or order a pizza to go.  The house salad is also wonderful with fresh greens, cheese, pepperoni, olive, green pepper, and tomatoes on top.  The owner here is always in a panic; the place is just that popular.  After the travel, our wonderful meal, and the dive, it was easy to fall asleep that night.

The next morning we did two boat dives so it was an early start to the day.  The first reef was Sharon’s Serenity off Klein Bonaire, a small island just off the coast-a short 15 minute boat ride away.  Most diving in Bonaire is shore diving, but for the Klein Bonaire reefs you have to go out on a dive boat or take a water taxi over to the island.

A Bonaire Trunkfish

A Bonaire Trunkfish
Photo©Jean Janssen

I love the small trunkfish with their fast flapping fins and Rocky loves the color on the fairy basslets.  We saw angelfish, parrot fish, wrasses, butterfly fish, grouper, jacks, and blue tangs ( think Dori from Finding Nemo) among others.

After our surface interval spent on the boat traveling back to Bonaire, we did our second dive at 1,000 steps.  Yes, this is the name of the dive site, but it is also how you access it from the shore.  I vote for boat diving for this site, rather than wearing full gear and carrying a tank on my back down those steps.  There were people doing that though.  Can’t imagine going back up too, tired from your hour-long dive.

one of my Lionfish photos from Indonesia
Photo©Jean Janssen

It is a great dive site, I spotted a small lionfish (love it at full spread) and the dive guide showed us a small filefish in the tall soft coral, great camouflage.  I also spotted a colorful slug.

A Bonaire Slug

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Arriving in Bonaire

The flight from Houston was direct, but a red-eye.  We left at midnight and arrived in the early morning.  You immediately know you are on island time.  They slowly added staff at passport control to accommodate the arrivals from our full flight.  After waiting in line at passport control, we waited another twenty minutes for our luggage and another half hour to get the rental car.  No one is in a hurry.  You shouldn’t be either.  You are on vacation.  Who goes to Bonaire on business?

Bonaire is part of the Dutch Antilles.  Bonaire, along with Aruba and Curacao, make up  the ABC islands.  This is about as far south in the Caribbean as you can get.  The flight from Houston was just over four hours.  There are also direct flights from Atlanta and Newark.

There was some drama on the airplane.  Just before landing a “medical emergency” occurred and they had all the passengers stay seated so medical staff could come on board.  Even the emergency staff moved slowly.  Island Time.  The Bonaire airport is small and you de-plane by walking down stairs directly onto the tarmac.  Everything is open air.  At no point are you in an enclosed space.  There may be partitions, but something is always open, a wall, a ceiling…

Like in many foreign countries, most rental cars come equipped with a manual transmission. Reserve ahead of time if you want an automatic.  Some local rental companies don’t even stock cars with an automatic transmission so be sure to ask when you complete your booking.  Some of the resorts offer rental cars in their packages; these will be cars with a manual transmission.  A few of the rental car companies have an office at the terminal, some pick you up and take you to an off site location.  If a car is part of your hotel package, you will be picked up at the airport and not get your car until you arrive at the hotel.

“Villa” 301 at Caribbean Club Bonaire
Photo©Jean Janssen

We were very lucky.  Even though it was not even 8 am, no one had booked our room the night before our arrival, so we were able to check into our room as soon as we arrived at the Caribbean Club.  We sprang for the accommodations with two bedrooms and a water view.  It is just Rocky and I, the divers in the family, but I booked a cottage that would accommodate Boris if he decided to join us.  Instead, he is enjoying his independence back in Texas.

Dive orientation was at 9 am.  You have to go through an orientation and purchase a marine park pass to dive anywhere on Bonaire.  The entire shoreline is a marine sanctuary, something that was established 30+ years ago, the first Caribbean island to do so.  The marine park pass is $25 for divers, $10 for non-divers.  It is good for one year.

After orientation, we checked out our home for the next week and then headed into town to do some grocery shopping.  The resort food is usually good-the breakfasts often exceptional-but we get tired of eating at the same place all week.  Our room includes a full kitchen, although there is no microwave.   We did bring some non-perishables from home.  This only worked for us because my airline status allows me to check up to 3 bags at no charge on an international flight.  Even though the food is more expensive here, it may not be economical to bring it along if you have to pay to check the bag it is in.  Of course if you want something special, bring it with you.

Bonaire’s newest grocery store
Photo©Jean Janssen

We were excited to find that the capital city of Kralendijk now has a new grocery store.  It is very modern.  However, it would help if you read Dutch.  Sometimes we just had to guess by the pictures on the package.  The bread is out of this world.  Stock up; you can burn off the carbs while diving.

If you wanted to use a regular shopping cart you had to rent it.  Perhaps you got money back when you turned it in, but we could not figure it out.  Most people just picked up the  small basket (like the hand-held baskets at our store), extended the handle, and used the wheels on that basket.

The “free” use basket is like our handhelds, but with an extendable handle and wheels
Photo©Jean Janssen

When you checked out, you had to have brought your own bags or buy one of theirs, 39 cents for a plastic bag or $2.79 for the heavy-duty one with strap handles.  We got 2 plastic ones.  The food was packaged very attractively, but the quantities were small.  They were not packaged for American or diver appetites (or maybe I was just really hungry having not eaten for 16 hours.)  Needless to say, we ate as soon as we got back to our cottage.

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So, have you thought about scuba diving?

I will come back to South America later, but we are about to leave for Bonaire so my brain has shifted to preparations for a dive trip.  I have been diving for about 8 1/2 years now.  It was on my bucket list, even before I knew what a bucket list was.  I remember the first time I went snorkeling and saw the amazing coral and fish just off the beach in Grand Cayman.  At that time, 7 mile beach truly was a beach.  The resorts were on the interior side of the road and there was no construction on the water side.  I was there just a few years ago and was appalled at the construction.

I was pregnant with my son-Rocky is now 21-so diving was not an option, but I remember wanting to go “down there” even though there was a lot to see near the surface.  At that time, you could actually go into water up to your ankles and see fish; it is no longer that way.  We also went to stingray city, which I have gone to several times since.  I highly recommend the experience, but be prepared.  The rays will rub up against you.  These are “wild” animals.

Although many divers still snorkel, I just don’t like it anymore.  Your back gets sunburned, you have to ride the waves at the surface, and you only get to see the sea life from afar.  The reality is that once you learn to dive, you are far more comfortable under the water than on top of it.  I have logged almost 200 dives-192 and I hope to get to 200 on this Bonaire trip-but still get sea-sick sitting on a rocking boat.  First in the water and last out of the water for me.

Scuba diving is not for everyone.  It tends to be a sport that people love or hate.  It has its risks and should be something you want to do.  Some people talk about being claustrophobic or fearful, but I find the experience very freeing.  Underwater, I feel the wide expanse of the ocean open a whole new world to me.  My dive master told me she knew I would be a lifetime diver the minute she saw my eyes underwater.  I was amazed.

You can take a resort course for a one time shot at diving and to see if you like it, but the only way to be trained to become a diver is to take a good multi-week course with classroom, pool, and open water components.  Some destinations offer full course work with certification at the end, but do you want to spend your vacation taking a class?  Do it at home before you go and establish a relationship with a local instructor who will be there when you return.

Although this trip to Bonaire is an exception, I usually do my dive travel with the dive masters who were my original instructors.  Rocky was 12 when he took a scuba rangers class (pre-certification course for children as young as 8).  He fell in love.  I tell him it is because  he was actually on that Grand Cayman trip when I snorkeled for the first time.  He is alternatively baffled or embarrassed when I remind him of that.  Anyway, he was hooked and we took the adult certification class together after that.  He was a junior diver with depth limitations until age 16.  Rocky was much better than I at the course work and practicals and is still amazing in the water although he has not had as many opportunities to dive as I have.

Scuba Diving captivated Rocky just before he became a teenager.  Even as he got older, pulled away, or just wanted to spend time with anyone besides his parents, he has never stopped being my dive buddy.  It is an amazing experience to scuba dive, even more amazing when you can share the experience with your child and see the wonder of the ocean in their eyes.

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